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Rock Climbing Photo: Rodger leading the first pitch on bishop Jaggers; ...


Member Since: May 31, 2010
Last Visit: Apr 15, 2016
Contact Rodger Raubach

Point Rank: # 61
Total Points: 6,767
Last Year: 132
Last 30 Days: 0
96 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Rodger Raubach been climbing?










Contributions


All 2098 | Routes 71 | Areas 44 | Photos 982 | Page Improvements 4 | Comments 475 | Posts 8 | Stars 301 | Ratings 213
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Rotwand : Rotwand Route (5.7 X)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 15, 2016

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Comments: I'd never had poison ivy rash before climbing this route; my GF was covered with it. Maybe I got it from her?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Rotwand
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 15, 2016

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Comments: My general observation: the higher one climbs, the better the rock becomes. I've done only the "Regular Route" around 3 or 4 times in the '80s.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Rotwand : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 15, 2016

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Comments: Nice condition! Great bull snake! I love bull snakes!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : ... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Mar 27, 2016

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Comments: We used what we had, those days. Note Columbian rope, knickers, and Kronhofer klettersches.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Castle Rock - South Face : Big Time (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: My problem with this description, is it doesn't really describe the route. Such as: does this route top out on the summit of Castle Rock? Is there anything more than following the dots...uh...line of bolts?


Location: ID : City of Rocks
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 28, 2015

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Comments: The situation regarding FLIES this season is simply awful. My GF and I cut our trip short because of the little bastards; they were getting in our food as we ate, and were pestiferous in the campgrounds. Never saw it this bad before!


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Pala Group : Cima della Madonna : Scarf Arete, a.k.a. "Spigol... (5.7+)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 28, 2015

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Comments: My previous comments are based on a very "Old School" interpretation of the equivalence of the rating scales; i.e. : UIAA versus YDS. I've discussed several of the ratings with other climbers who have repeated these UIAA Gr. V+ routes, and it's more likely that it equates to 5.8+ or possibly even 5.9-, instead of just "hard 5.7."


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - East : Failure to Launch (5.9)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 26, 2015

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Comments: I don't believe those are pin scars, but are natural solution pockets; hence the original name, Pocket Rocket.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Pterodactyl Terrace, Left (5.10a)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 16, 2015

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Comments: I led this back in 1981, and used entirely passive pro in addition to one old fixed piton in the final lieback/dihedral. No need for an "R" rating, just MHO.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Three Brothers Area : Split Pinnacle : East Arete (5.10c)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 14, 2015

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Comments: The recent passing of Paul Kunasz in Boulder reminded me of a 1965 joint effort we made on this route. It was highly regarded at the time, but few climbers had actually done the route. It was my first experience in a Yosemite "Bombay chimney," and I struggled a lot on the first pitch; so much so that it was the first and only climb that made me barf. Heat, lack of water, and my queasy stomach called for a retreat--which we did. The first pitch may not be very severe by today's Yosemite... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Swan Slab : ... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Aug 28, 2015

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Comments: Photographer has tilted the camera; not nearly as steep as this would indicate...


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Sella Group : Passo Sella Area : ... : "Bergfuehrerweg"/Route of t... (5.9)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Aug 10, 2015

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Comments: This route may be followed on a rappel descent of the wall in less than perfect conditions. Two 165 foot ropes are required, and 4 abseils will bring one to the base of the wall. The upper anchor may be difficult to locate.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall : Fall Wall (*the route) (5.10a)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jul 31, 2015

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Comments: As an historical note, I've been looking at some of the notes I acquired during my days as a graduate student at UW (1968-1972) and as a member of the Outing Club. This isn't for certain, but Peter Koedt was likely the first ascensionist of this route. Even in 1968, this route had already attained a reputation for boldness and "don't fall" style on the first 25 feet. This route was done before 1968 in a very pure style. Jim Halfpenny always led the climb in Terray Mountain boots. A 1 1/2" angle ... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Hidden Tower : Sail Away (5.8-) : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jul 15, 2015

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Comments: Hilarious! Who'd bring a plastic duck to the summit of a climb in Joshua Tree?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Atlantis Area : Atlantis Wall : ... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jul 15, 2015

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Comments: Excellent rock and wonderful protection make this a great lead for the novice leader.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : Water Streak (aka Friday's ... (5.10a PG13)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jul 14, 2015

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Comments: The difficulty rating of this climb varies with the height of the leader; for anyone short, the final moves are pretty reachy and would be 5.10a; for taller climbers, the 5.9+ rating is accurate.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Practice Rock
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 24, 2015

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Comments: Can be crowded on weekends. Very popular for families with children. Get there early and enjoy the shade till Noon.


Location: Rodger Raubach : 2014 Dolomites climbing tri... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Oct 13, 2014

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Comments: Hi Enrico! I too, had a great time and enjoyed the comradeship!


Location: Rodger Raubach : Tre Cime di Laverado : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 28, 2014

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Comments: The entire area was a W.W. I battleground, and is laced with old military tunnels.


Location: Rodger Raubach : Tre Cime di Laverado : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 28, 2014

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Comments: Food and drink are available, in addition to a dormitory for sleeping.


Location: Rodger Raubach : Tre Cime di Laverado : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 27, 2014

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Comments: The wonderful "Preussriss," or Preuss Crack is evident in this photo. It was a landmark climb when first done prior to W.W. I by Paul Preuss...entirely without any protection. Currently rated at 5.7/5.8.


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Sassolungo (Langkolfel) gro... : Sasso Levante Grohmann (Gro... : South Arete, "Via Dimai." (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 27, 2014

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Comments: This is a major route on an Alpine summit, and coupled with the descent could result in an unplanned bivvy. Take plenty of water and some food, as this can be an arduous day of climbing when the descent is considered.


Location: Rodger Raubach : Dolomite Route Sketches : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 24, 2014

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Comments: Torre Grande West Summit is on the Right.


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri Group : Torre Grande, North Summit : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 24, 2014

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Comments: Route sketch in red illustrates the common start for the "Via Normale" of the North Tower and "Via Nuvolau" for the South tower.


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri Group : Torre Grande, North Summit : ... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 24, 2014

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Comments: The first 2 leads and climbing-in-coils for both North Summit "via Normale," and the South Summit "Nuvolau Route" are on the rock structure between the towers.


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