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Member Since: Mar 17, 2009
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
Contact Rod J.

Point Rank: # 9,528
Total Points: 43
Last Year: 11
Last 30 Days: 0
0 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Rod J. been climbing?










Contributions


All 208 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 3 | Page Improvements | Comments 18 | Posts 2 | Stars 85 | Ratings 99

Contributed Comments

 

Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (yy) Basalt Rimrock : Northern Point : ... : Gloryhole (5.11b)
By: Rod J. When: Aug 17, 2016

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Comments: I'm confused. If Eviction Notice (EN) is 2 climbs up from Havana Smack (HS), then it is Gloryhole. The description for Gloryhole states that there are 2 old sage bushes at it's base, which should be EN. The order of the routes listed on MP states that EN is upstream from Gloryhole. The route description of Gloryhole defines the route that is 2 climbs upstream from HS. Will somebody clarify & fix this please?


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (yy) Basalt Rimrock : Northern Point : ... : Thumper (5.8)
By: Rod J. When: Aug 4, 2016

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Comments: Tough for the grade, especially if you do the boulder start from the ground. I've seen many ~5.10a climbers have problems with this. If on TR, the optional face-climbing line up the right (middle third) is fun too.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (c) Shipwreck Wall : Shipwreck Wall - East Face : Walking While Intoxicated (5.10b)
By: Rod J. When: Jun 15, 2016

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Comments: Not a turd, not a classic. Requires some thought & not your typical Smith route (as mentioned earlier). 10b (& fun) when you do it right; 10c if you do it the hard way.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (d) Aggro Gully : Toxic (5.11b)
By: Rod J. When: May 26, 2016

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Comments: I'm guessing that those who question the grade increase are 5'8" or taller. Ask a 'short' person what they think that it should be graded. (11d or harder?)


Location: UT : Saint George : Pine Valley : Unemployment wall : Up The Rabbit's Hole (5.9)
By: Rod J. When: Apr 27, 2016

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Comments: That seemed harder than a 5.9 move at the top; the other 2 climbers with me agreed. Lose layer of rock rt. of the 3rd bolt.


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Sand Puppy (5.9)
By: Rod J. When: Apr 25, 2016

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Comments: I find it hard to believe that anybody could rate this a 5.6 (or even a 5.7).


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Power Lines
By: Rod J. When: Apr 7, 2016

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Comments: I can't seem to find a Tick Ranch entry. Will someone post a link to it?

Also, where can I find a route guide to the climbs at the Power Lines?


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (3) Red Wall : Red Eye (5.10b/c)
By: Rod J. When: Apr 7, 2016

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Comments: I've climbed at ~35 different areas around the US, and have definitely never found a route of this difficulty that was rated a 5.10a! However, I haven't climbed in the Gunks (yet) where I hear the ratings are stiff. If the word 'classic' is interchangeable with 'old school', then maybe.


Location: NV : Mount Charleston
By: Rod J. When: Mar 30, 2016

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Comments: I kept hearing that Mt. Charleston was North of Las Vegas, so I thought it was up highway 93. Turns out that it is due (magnetic (+11 deg.)) West of Las Vegas.

Another way to look at it is that if the North portion of highway 215 were to continue West, it would pass North of Mt. Charleston!

Hope this saves somebody a trip up highway 93.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Meadow Camp : Right on Joe (5.10a)
By: Rod J. When: Mar 8, 2016

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Comments: The crux for me is getting onto the ledge (& out of the crack) at the very top.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Inner Gorge : ... : Photo
By: Rod J. When: Sep 19, 2015

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Comments: Is there a high-res version of this pic? If so, I'd love to see it.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (yy) Basalt Rimrock : Northern Point : ... : Lamoidian Power Dance (5.11b)
By: Rod J. When: Jun 26, 2015

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Comments: 5.11a if you are 5' 10" or over, 5.11d if under 5' 10"


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (x) The Marsupials : (1) Koala Rock : Ryan's Arete (5.10c)
By: Rod J. When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: Starts out hard (after the 1st bolt) & gets harder all the way until the anchors. This is definitely a full grade above Buffalo Power (which is a solid 10c).


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (x) The Marsupials : (2) Brogan Spire : Short Sharp Shock (5.10b)
By: Rod J. When: Jun 20, 2014

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Comments: This is my favorite 10b in the park*.

  • = Smith Rock SP + BLM land.



Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (x) The Marsupials : (2) Brogan Spire : Walking on Broken Glass (5.11a)
By: Rod J. When: Jun 20, 2014

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Comments: I've seen many '11' climbers fail at the top. They didn't think that it was so easy. I do think that it is easier than 'Magic Light'.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (g) Morning Glory Wall : Light on the Path (5.10a)
By: Rod J. When: Jul 25, 2010

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Comments: Many people are confusing LOTP with The Outsiders (thanks to the original posting of this route). The Outsiders is the route that is adjacent to 5GBs - not LOTP! LOTP is one route right of The Outsiders & 2 routes right of 5GBs. LOTP is every bit a 10a. I wouldn't argue with a 10a/b rating. LOTP is significantly harder than 5GBs (5.8) & The Outsiders (5.9).


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (k) The Dihedrals : Ginger Snap (5.8)
By: Rod J. When: Jun 21, 2009

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Comments: This is harder than a 5.8 if you follow the bolt line strait up the middle of the slab @ the start w/o deviating to the right or left.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (k) The Dihedrals : Cry Babies (5.8+)
By: Rod J. When: Jun 21, 2009

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Comments: The actual name of this route is 'Cry Baby'.



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