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Member Since: Mar 17, 2009
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Rod J.

Point Rank: # 9,492
Total Points: 41
Last Year: 9
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Rod J. been climbing?










Contributions


All 195 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 3 | Page Improvements | Comments 16 | Posts 2 | Stars 80 | Ratings 93
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Animal Farm

5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b (24)

Sport, 1 pitch, 70'

OR : Smith Rock : (u) Red Wall

Nov 3, 2009

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Buffalo Power (late in the day - 3/8/15)

Buffalo Power (late in the day - 3/8/15)

OR : Smith Rock : ... : Buffalo Power (5.10c)

Mar 9, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: 1st pitch of Super Slab is to the right (NW). Bela...

1st pitch of Super Slab is to the right (NW). Belay from the top of the block.

OR : Smith Rock : ... : Animal Farm (5.10b/c)

Nov 3, 2009

Rock Climbing Photo: Cure For Pain is the route on the left. Not much a...

Cure For Pain is the route on the left. Not much arete action.

OR : Smith Rock : ... : Cure for Pain (5.11a)

Nov 3, 2009

Contributed Comments

 

Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (c) Shipwreck Wall : Shipwreck Wall - East Face : Walking While Intoxicated (5.10b)
By: Rod J. When: Jun 15, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Not a turd, not a classic. Requires some thought & not your typical Smith route (as mentioned earlier). 10b (& fun) when you do it right; 10c if you do it the hard way.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (d) Aggro Gully : Toxic (5.11b)
By: Rod J. When: May 26, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I'm guessing that those who question the grade increase are 5'8" or taller. Ask a 'short' person what they think that it should be graded. (11d or harder?)


Location: UT : Saint George : Pine Valley : Unemployment wall : Up The Rabbit's Hole (5.9)
By: Rod J. When: Apr 27, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: That seemed harder than a 5.9 move at the top; the other 2 climbers with me agreed. Lose layer of rock rt. of the 3rd bolt.


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Sand Puppy (5.9)
By: Rod J. When: Apr 25, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I find it hard to believe that anybody could rate this a 5.6 (or even a 5.7).


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Power Lines
By: Rod J. When: Apr 7, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I can't seem to find a Tick Ranch entry. Will someone post a link to it?

Also, where can I find a route guide to the climbs at the Power Lines?


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (3) Red Wall : Red Eye (5.10b/c)
By: Rod J. When: Apr 7, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I've climbed at ~35 different areas around the US, and have definitely never found a route of this difficulty that was rated a 5.10a! However, I haven't climbed in the Gunks (yet) where I hear the ratings are stiff. If the word 'classic' is interchangeable with 'old school', then maybe.


Location: NV : Mount Charleston
By: Rod J. When: Mar 30, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I kept hearing that Mt. Charleston was North of Las Vegas, so I thought it was up highway 93. Turns out that it is due (magnetic (+11 deg.)) West of Las Vegas.

Another way to look at it is that if the North portion of highway 215 were to continue West, it would pass North of Mt. Charleston!

Hope this saves somebody a trip up highway 93.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Meadow Camp : Right on Joe (5.10a)
By: Rod J. When: Mar 8, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The crux for me is getting onto the ledge (& out of the crack) at the very top.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Inner Gorge : ... : Photo
By: Rod J. When: Sep 19, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Is there a high-res version of this pic? If so, I'd love to see it.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (yy) Basalt Rimrock : Northern Point : ... : Lamoidian Power Dance (5.11b)
By: Rod J. When: Jun 26, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: 5.11a if you are 5' 10" or over, 5.11d if under 5' 10"


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (x) The Marsupials : (1) Koala Rock : Ryan's Arete (5.10c)
By: Rod J. When: Mar 9, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Starts out hard (after the 1st bolt) & gets harder all the way until the anchors. This is definitely a full grade above Buffalo Power (which is a solid 10c).


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (x) The Marsupials : (2) Brogan Spire : Short Sharp Shock (5.10b)
By: Rod J. When: Jun 20, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This is my favorite 10b in the park*.

  • = Smith Rock SP + BLM land.



Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (x) The Marsupials : (2) Brogan Spire : Walking on Broken Glass (5.11a)
By: Rod J. When: Jun 20, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I've seen many '11' climbers fail at the top. They didn't think that it was so easy. I do think that it is easier than 'Magic Light'.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (g) Morning Glory Wall : Light on the Path (5.10a)
By: Rod J. When: Jul 25, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Many people are confusing LOTP with The Outsiders (thanks to the original posting of this route). The Outsiders is the route that is adjacent to 5GBs - not LOTP! LOTP is one route right of The Outsiders & 2 routes right of 5GBs. LOTP is every bit a 10a. I wouldn't argue with a 10a/b rating. LOTP is significantly harder than 5GBs (5.8) & The Outsiders (5.9).


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (k) The Dihedrals : Ginger Snap (5.8)
By: Rod J. When: Jun 21, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: This is harder than a 5.8 if you follow the bolt line strait up the middle of the slab @ the start w/o deviating to the right or left.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (k) The Dihedrals : Cry Babies (5.9-)
By: Rod J. When: Jun 21, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: The actual name of this route is 'Cry Baby'.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Latest and best guide book for City of Rocks, IdahoNorthern Utah & IdahoRod J.May 19, 2016
re: Latest and best guide book for City of Rocks, IdahoNorthern Utah & IdahoRod J.May 28, 2015

Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Deez Guys 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

ID : City of Rocks : Slabbage Patch

Vagabonds 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

NV : Red Rock : ... : Lower Level

Toxic 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

OR : Smith Rock : (d) Aggro Gully

Short Sharp Shock 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

OR : Smith Rock : ... : (2) Brogan Spire

Colossus 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

ID : City of Rocks : ... : Bath Rock - West

Bloodshot 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

OR : Smith Rock : (f) Cocaine Gully

Rollercoaster 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

ID : City of Rocks : ... : Bath Rock - West

My Name is Mud 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

OR : Smith Rock : ... : (4) Mud Pile

Irreverence 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

OR : Smith Rock : ... : Christian Brothers - East S...

Xenophobe 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

OR : Smith Rock : ... : (4) Mud Pile

First Contact 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

OR : Mt. Hood : Area 51

Entering Relativity 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

OR : Smith Rock : ... : (2) Llama Wall

Ryan's Arete 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

OR : Smith Rock : ... : (1) Koala Rock

Death Of a Raven 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

OR : Smith Rock : ... : (2) Brogan Spire

Return of Yoda 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

OR : Mt. Hood : Bulo Point

Jet Wind 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

OR : Mt. Hood : Bulo Point

The Mothership 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

OR : Mt. Hood : Area 51

New York Is Not The City 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

ID : City of Rocks : Bumblie Rock

Honey Pot 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

OR : Smith Rock : (a) Picnic Lunch Wall

More Sandy than Kevin 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

OR : Smith Rock : ... : Shipwreck Wall - East Face

Walking While Intoxicated 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

OR : Smith Rock : ... : Shipwreck Wall - East Face

Deep Impact 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

OR : Smith Rock : (f) Cocaine Gully

Chaos 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

WA : Southwest Cascades : ... : (4) Gold Wall

Helm's Deep 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

WA : Southwest Cascades : ... : (2) Middle Earth

Grab n' Go 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

WA : Southwest Cascades : ... : (2) Middle Earth

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