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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : Cave Wall : The Good Bad and Dirty (5.10d)
By: ROC When: Aug 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Finally got the nerve to lead this thing today. What a great climb. Tape well and you have nothing to fear. Watch out for the poison ivy in the crack about 10 feet above the ledge halfway up and also at the good arm bar rest under the roof. The final crux is the toughest and the best...burly, but it's all there.... Good luck!!!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Real Hidden Valley Boulderi... : Real Hidden Valley Circuit : ... : Saturday Night Live (V4)
By: ROC When: Jan 19, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bring a pad unless you plan on manteling off the sucka. It's a long drop. Good landing, but a long drop none the less...made all the more painful in super tight climbing shoes. Personal experience...
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Location: CO : Attention all Eldorado clim...
By: ROC When: Oct 6, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thank you for posting this!!! I had a small hand in getting one of the proposals submitted, so it is nice to see some action being taken.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Warning: The rappel tree on...
By: ROC When: Apr 30, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The downclimb to the left is MUCH easier and MUCH less exposed than the route down the tree. (Left if you are facing the cliff...climbers left). Simply scramble down a series of ledges with positive hand holds, then traverse over on the ledge to the tree or new set of anchors (hopefully coming soon). I would even feel reasonably comfortable doing this downclimb in the rain. This, however, is simply my opinion and should be taken as such. There's only one real way to find out if said downcli... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Warning: The rappel tree on...
By: ROC When: Apr 20, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't necessarily agree with strapping down the tree, but some clarification as to the weakness of the tree may be in order. I was the one to post the warning about said tree and was present to see and feel it coming out of the ground in high winds. It was lifting up as well as out, directly away from the cliff face. The roots extend from each side of the tree making it most stable in a side to side direction. I do not see any danger of the tree falling onto the anchor if it is positioned ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Warning: The rappel tree on...
By: ROC When: Apr 14, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Has anyone done anything with the bolting application? Just wondering if this is actually moving forward. Thanks to everyone for responding to the initial post. Glad there are others out there that feel the same about the situation.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Warning: The rappel tree on...
By: ROC When: Apr 11, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The tree in question in not necessary for the down climb. You can easily and safely scramble down ledges on the climber's left of the tree. Bolts would be great somewhere on the slab below the tree or on the face above the ledge somewhere.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One
By: ROC When: Apr 5, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: WARNING!!!
The rappel tree on the top of the upper ramp (that puts you more or less at the base of Vertigo) is NOT stable. I was up there last week in high winds and the entire tree was lifting up out of the ground with each gust. I was sitting on the rocks near the tree and was lifted off the ground each time the tree would move. I left a rap anchor that consisted of three equalized stoppers, but I'm afraid the new anchor will be treated like booty gear. The tree may be fine, but under the cir... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two
By: ROC When: Apr 5, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: WARNING!!!
The rappel tree on the top of the upper ramp (that puts you more or less at the base of Vertigo) is NOT stable. I was up there last week in high winds and the entire tree was lifting up out of the ground with each gust. I was sitting on the rocks near the tree and was lifted off the ground each time the tree would move. I left a rap anchor that consisted of three equalized stoppers, but I'm afraid the new anchor will be treated like booty gear. The tree may be fine, but under the cir... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall
By: ROC When: Apr 5, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: WARNING!!!
The rappel tree on the top of the upper ramp (that puts you more or less at the base of Vertigo) is NOT stable. I was up there last week in high winds and the entire tree was lifting up out of the ground with each gust. I was sitting on the rocks near the tree and was lifted off the ground each time the tree would move. I left a rap anchor that consisted of three equalized stoppers, but I'm afraid the new anchor will be treated like booty gear. The tree may be fin... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : The Owl (5.7)
By: ROC When: Mar 19, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: 1st free solo day on this route!!!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Darkness 'til Dawn (5.10-)
By: ROC When: Feb 1, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great long pitch. Milk those rest stances. No hard moves, just tricky sequences. Onsight 2/1/06!!!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Grandmother's Challenge (5.10c)
By: ROC When: Dec 14, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: On-sight!!! (12/1305) First 5.10 route ever led on trad!!! Bird poo...minimal (basically it was frozen).
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : Wendell Spire : The Beak (5.11d)
By: ROC When: Oct 27, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is amazing! I've checked out this route for the past 7 years every time I visit this part of the canyon. I always thought that it was "the sub" 13a, due to the old guide book. Seeing it listed as 11d on this site put it within my skill range. Figured I'd make a project of it. Looked dirty but do-able. Got on this last Friday and onsighted the sucka. The route has it all...smearing slab moves, an overhang, dihedral, lieback, travers, arete, slopperz, hand crack to offwidth, and... more >>
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : I Claudius (5.11b)
By: ROC When: May 10, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I felt that the 5.11 rating was justified, but I'm not a great crack climber by any stretch of the imagination. As far as the above "stick clip" comments goes, I lead this last weekend and felt very solid clipping the first bolt. I had a bomber right hand on the flake out right of the bolt. I don't believe this is off route as clipping the bolt from this stance is easiliy within reach. Look for the no hands rest (knee bar) just under the little overhang!!! Great climb!!!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Power Failure (5.10)
By: ROC When: Nov 10, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very fun and gets sun early on a winters day.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Bath Rock : Colossus (5.10c)
By: ROC When: Aug 18, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb!!! Definately one of the must do's for any City trip. The crux is exposed but short. Decent clip off the hueco. Clip that bolt and go for it!! 2 to 3 hard pulls puts you on the big ledge. The moves are well protected so don't even think of taking, just do it!!!
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Rye Crisp (5.8)
By: ROC When: Aug 13, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very fun climb. Having said that I would be VERY, VERY HESITANT about doing this one again as to the dubious nature of the entire flake system. The entire thing is hollow and vibrates terriblely when you knock on it. The first half seems pretty solid, but the upper half seemed very suspect to me. How long till that thing comes down? "5 minutes or 5 thousand years?" If it should cut loose, you and your belayer are toast. ENJOY!!!
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Dome : Bishop Jaggers (5.9)
By: ROC When: Jul 9, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun climb but be ready to really run it out. If your not completely confident on 5.9 South Platte (!) slab then I would not recommend this route at all. The bolts on the entire climb were horrible at best. I wouldn't trust a fall on those rusty old things or even hang off them for that matter. Also the roof pitch (2nd, if you link 1 and 2), is pretty tricky. Not particularly hard moves, but the route finding for me was a real challenge. Go for the crack in the roof strait up from the bela... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Dome
By: ROC When: Jul 9, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: HEADS UP ON THE APPROACH!! follow the obvious trail strait up from the parking area for a while. Be aware of a fork in the trail after a while. Its not that obvious, but look left, for an old "road" that seems to head back in the wrong direction. This is actually the right trail up to the Dome. I, unfortunately continued up the valley on the right hand side of the creek and crossed left way up the hill. This put us far to the right with no trail throught the heinous boulder field. We actu... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Schoolroom Direct Variation (5.7 R)
By: ROC When: Jun 22, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I feel this is a much better variation to Schoolroom. This route wanders enough as it is. I didn't feel that this start was that much harder than the other pitches. Very fun climb!!
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : Grocery Store Wall : Donut Hole (5.11a)
By: ROC When: Apr 26, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed, tougher direct finish. Haven't linked it all yet, but worked the moves. Crimpy, but definately do-able. Try it out.
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : The Playground : Tag (5.11a)
By: ROC When: Apr 21, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Skip the v2 bouldery start altogether. Just jump for the positive ledge and swing those feet up. Better stick it first try or you'll be donating a couple of layers of skin and some blood to the CWC rock. Once you stick that HUGE pocket on the left your basically done. Don't be tempted to stem out to the left as this makes it conisiderably easier.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Bushwhack Crack (5.8)
By: ROC When: Apr 5, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this one last spring break. Great climb for taking beginners on. It eats up pro.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : LaCholla Jackson (5.9)
By: ROC When: Mar 21, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb to run some laps on to get a good burn at the end of the day.
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