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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Lower : Flake n' Bake : Photo
By: Robin When: Aug 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah our ropes got super twisted on this rap also...
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (AKA: The Notch) : Lower Grotto : (09) Bedeviled (5.11c/d)
By: Robin When: Aug 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Totally sweet!!!
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (AKA: The Notch) : Right Side of Grotto Entran... : Class Act (5.10a/b)
By: Robin When: Aug 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'll admit I'm a trad climber and I like it!! I am also tall so the reachy stuff doesn't bug me.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (04) Showdown Wall : (02) SideKick (5.11a PG13)
By: Robin When: Aug 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is not PG13 once you place the cam, for what it's worth.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (05) The Transition Zone : Stick To Stucco (5.10c)
By: Robin When: Jul 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A very good route. For someone like me (not comfortable on these low angle routes) it is an excellent mental exercise.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Donald Duck : ... : Photo
By: Robin When: Jul 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm sure you'll have no trouble with it.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Donald Duck : ... : Photo
By: Robin When: Jun 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bill, if I am reading your question correctly, I actually essentially did both. I stemmed and used both the wide and skinnier looking cracks. You can reach the hand-ish crack from stemmed, and you can jam it or place pro in it. I found the cracks to be very smooth in the inside and often times to wide to jam easily anyway. I guess I'm assuming you were wondering if I should have gone that way?
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : The Thumb : Northwest Ridge (5.5)
By: Robin When: Jun 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This really is a cool ridge to climb up. It looks highly improbable at times but then you sneak on through. I found the rock on the 5th class sections to be ok. Protection was fine. I was very happy to find that the rock on the 4th class scrambling section was better than the belayed sections of the route. For a Sandias route it felt pretty mellow since you just cruise on down La Luz trail, make a quick scramble up to the belay ledge, and you don't have to rap at all.
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Photo
By: Robin When: Jun 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: WOW that seems like quite a long exposure. Is it all starlight that's illuminating everything?
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Donald Duck : Northeast Corner (5.6)
By: Robin When: Jun 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Felt pretty hard for 5.6, unless we went up the wrong dihedral (see my photo). Felt more like 5.8 to me. Oh well... I would not want to go up this as a beginner leader thinking it's super mellow. There is plenty of gear though so...
Rack suggestions:
You don't need any small cams, but I placed maybe a .3 and a .4 somewhere. You can place lots of #1's 2's and 3's. I could have used 4 #1's if I'd had them. You can place a #4, so if you decide to bring it you'll find a pla... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Pinnacle Valley : WatchTower : Seventh Sojourn (5.9)
By: Robin When: Jun 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: P1 5.7 maybe 5.7+. Crux for me was a little chimney/dihedral thing right before the anchor. It looks really weird, especially after all the juggy cracky climbing below, but I chimneyed it with my back facing west and it felt very secure.
P2 5.9 definitely the crux pitch. Exactly as described in the route description. Gear is a bit weird in the left trending dihedral, which is also the crux. Small cams useful here.
P3 57/5.8 ish. Pretty mellow except for a little step across right from th... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Big Block : Bouldering Cave : Blockade (5.10a)
By: Robin When: Jun 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this is one of the better leads at the crag. Definitely scarier looking that it actually turns out to be.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Big Block : Block Wall : Photo
By: Robin When: Jun 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm sorry to be picky, but it should be mentioned that this photo is not of the block wall, but of the bouldering cave... The "Block Wall" is the vertical wall right of this cave.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Big Block : The Block : Cell Block (5.10a)
By: Robin When: Jun 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow! I was told this was 5.7!!
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Big Block : The Block : Cell Block (5.10a)
By: Robin When: Jun 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thank you soooooo much for putting in the new anchor. No more bringing 40' of webbing to climb a 30' route.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Big Block : Bouldering Cave
By: Robin When: Jun 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Leeab's comments for sure. It's not the greatest crag but it's right there outside of town and often cooler than the lower Sandias. Combined with leading the two mellow 5.10's it makes for a quick outdoor climbing fix.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Big Block : Block Wall : Beth (5.11)
By: Robin When: Jun 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found this route to be quite fun. I would recommend stick clipping the first bolt or bringing a crash pad. Stick clipping is better because the ground is steep here. Following that I found there were hard moves in between bolts with good clipping holds.
I had not tried this one before because I didn't know what it was like. Now I know that it is well worth doing. If you can get to the first bolt, you can do the route.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Big Block : Block Wall : Shane (5.10-)
By: Robin When: Jun 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I like this route. Very fun moves and good clipping holds. We have found it to be maybe a bit reachy at times. The first clip does not need a stick clip. Crux is getting over the roof at the first bolt.
If this route was twice as long, and if there were ten more just like it, this would be a very popular crag...
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Big Block : Block Wall : Left Route (5.9+)
By: Robin When: Jun 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not reccommended. Dirty, slopey and often full of water. First time I did it I thought it was supposed to be a 5.8. It is NOT a 5.8.
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Location: NM : New Canyon
By: Robin When: May 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: NEW CANYON CLOSED FOR POST-FIRE RECLAIMATION !!!!!!
We drove down there today (5-31-2009) and there was a closed gate about 0.2 miles before the parking spot that said area closed. Areas included were new canyon, and campgrounds in the area. Other stuff also closed in the area, but I didn't remember all the spots and haven't been able find any info online yet.
I will post back up if I get any more info.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : La Vista : Raven Steals the Sun (5.12a)
By: Robin When: May 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd just like to say although I won't be climbing routes this hard in the 'dias any time soon, I find it inspiring that people are putting up lines like this right in our own back yard. Climb on people!!
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Estrellita : Beat Around the Bush (5.8)
By: Robin When: May 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: An excellent partner to Estrellita. I feel that this one is not as straight forward as Estrellita. It is a little more heady I think. Still very worth doing if you are in the area.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Estrellita : Estrellita (5.8)
By: Robin When: May 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: An excellent climb. The top anchor takes large or medium nuts and hand/finger-ish sized cams. The walk off is mellow, no need for fixed pro on top.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (AKA: The Notch) : Lower Grotto : (06) Affirmative Action (5.11a)
By: Robin When: May 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: An excellent route. I would say 11a is reasonable. If your friends walk up to this thing and tell you it's an easy 5.10a warmup... don't believe them. Unless you think 11a is an easy warmup that is.
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Location: NH : Rock Rimmon (Manchester) : Photo
By: Robin When: May 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Man!! If only they'd leave full beers it wouldn't be so bad!!!!
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