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Member Since: Oct 19, 2006
Last Visit: Sep 13, 2009
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Point Rank: # 1,369
Total Points: 152
Last Year: 104
Last 30 Days: 41
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
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Robin

 
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Contributions


All (186) | Routes (1) | Areas | Photos (9) | Comments (97) | Posts | Stars (61) | Ratings (18)
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location  Useful To  Date

(07) Unnamed 5.7 "FInger Flake"

5.7

Trad, 1 pitch, 35 feet

NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : ... : (04) Showdown Wall

Aug 6, 2009

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location  Great Image  Date
This photo shows the upper segments of the bong crack.  The wide overhanging crack awaits you!!

This photo shows the upper segments of the bong crack. The wide overhanging crack awaits you!!

NM : Santa Fe Area : ... : Bong Crack (aka Surficial S... (5.10c)

Aug 9, 2009

Yeah it's pretty roofy.

Yeah it's pretty roofy.

NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : ... : Rode Hard (5.11c)

Aug 6, 2009

This is the beginning of sidekick.  It heads out left around some stuff a little bit after the cam placement.

This is the beginning of sidekick. It heads out left around some stuff a little bit after the cam placement.

NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : ... : (02) SideKick (5.11a PG13)

Aug 6, 2009

This is the beginning of Gunslinger but you'll figure out where the last couple bolts are once you get here.

This is the beginning of Gunslinger but you'll figure out where the last couple bolts are once you get here.

NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : ... : (01) Gunslinger (5.11d)

Aug 6, 2009

The route goes up the flake / finger crack.  You can also do the crack in the corner 3 feet left at 5.7.

The route goes up the flake / finger crack. You can also do the crack in the corner 3 feet left at 5.7.

NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : ... : (07) Unnamed 5.7 "FInger Fl... (5.7)

Aug 6, 2009

This is what we went up.  I think it's the NE corner.  It has solid rock and continuous pro.  It felt like 5.8 to me, but maybe I just suck.

This is what we went up. I think it's the NE corner. It has solid rock and continuous pro. It felt like 5.8 to me, but maybe I just suck.

NM : Sandia Mountains : ... : Northeast Corner (5.6)

Jun 11, 2009

Climber Nearing the top of Beat Around the Bush.  The small roof and the bush for which (I presume) the route is named can be seen a short ways below the climber.

Climber Nearing the top of Beat Around the Bush. The small roof and the bush for which (I presume) the route is named can be seen a short ways below the climber.

NM : Sandia Mountains : ... : Beat Around the Bush (5.8)

May 26, 2009

The early morning coil.  Everyone who has climbed in this canyon knows the excitement of this moment...  Big climb coming up!!<br /><br />Photo by Chuck McQuade

The early morning coil. Everyone who has climbed in this canyon knows the excitement of this moment... Big climb coming up!!Photo by Chuck McQuade

NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon

Jan 10, 2009

The first pitch of Thombstone West Face Traverse.  Mellow climbing, abundant pro and solid rock make it a great pitch, especially at 5.5 in the Sandias!!

The first pitch of Thombstone West Face Traverse. Mellow climbing, abundant pro and solid rock make it a great pitch, especially at 5.5 in the Sandias!!

NM : Sandia Mountains : ... : West Face Traverse (5.5)

Jun 6, 2008

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Lower : Flake n' Bake : Photo
By: Robin When: Aug 10, 2009

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Comments: Yeah our ropes got super twisted on this rap also...


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (AKA: The Notch) : Lower Grotto : (09) Bedeviled (5.11c/d)
By: Robin When: Aug 9, 2009

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Comments: Totally sweet!!!


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (AKA: The Notch) : Right Side of Grotto Entran... : Class Act (5.10a/b)
By: Robin When: Aug 7, 2009

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Comments: I'll admit I'm a trad climber and I like it!! I am also tall so the reachy stuff doesn't bug me.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (04) Showdown Wall : (02) SideKick (5.11a PG13)
By: Robin When: Aug 6, 2009

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Comments: It is not PG13 once you place the cam, for what it's worth.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (05) The Transition Zone : Stick To Stucco (5.10c)
By: Robin When: Jul 27, 2009

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Comments: A very good route. For someone like me (not comfortable on these low angle routes) it is an excellent mental exercise.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Donald Duck : ... : Photo
By: Robin When: Jul 14, 2009

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Comments: I'm sure you'll have no trouble with it.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Donald Duck : ... : Photo
By: Robin When: Jun 25, 2009

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Comments: Bill, if I am reading your question correctly, I actually essentially did both. I stemmed and used both the wide and skinnier looking cracks. You can reach the hand-ish crack from stemmed, and you can jam it or place pro in it. I found the cracks to be very smooth in the inside and often times to wide to jam easily anyway. I guess I'm assuming you were wondering if I should have gone that way?


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : The Thumb : Northwest Ridge (5.5)
By: Robin When: Jun 21, 2009

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Comments: This really is a cool ridge to climb up. It looks highly improbable at times but then you sneak on through. I found the rock on the 5th class sections to be ok. Protection was fine. I was very happy to find that the rock on the 4th class scrambling section was better than the belayed sections of the route. For a Sandias route it felt pretty mellow since you just cruise on down La Luz trail, make a quick scramble up to the belay ledge, and you don't have to rap at all.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Photo
By: Robin When: Jun 16, 2009

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Comments: WOW that seems like quite a long exposure. Is it all starlight that's illuminating everything?


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Donald Duck : Northeast Corner (5.6)
By: Robin When: Jun 11, 2009

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Comments: Felt pretty hard for 5.6, unless we went up the wrong dihedral (see my photo). Felt more like 5.8 to me. Oh well... I would not want to go up this as a beginner leader thinking it's super mellow. There is plenty of gear though so...

Rack suggestions:
You don't need any small cams, but I placed maybe a .3 and a .4 somewhere. You can place lots of #1's 2's and 3's. I could have used 4 #1's if I'd had them. You can place a #4, so if you decide to bring it you'll find a pla... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Pinnacle Valley : WatchTower : Seventh Sojourn (5.9)
By: Robin When: Jun 8, 2009

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Comments: P1 5.7 maybe 5.7+. Crux for me was a little chimney/dihedral thing right before the anchor. It looks really weird, especially after all the juggy cracky climbing below, but I chimneyed it with my back facing west and it felt very secure.

P2 5.9 definitely the crux pitch. Exactly as described in the route description. Gear is a bit weird in the left trending dihedral, which is also the crux. Small cams useful here.

P3 57/5.8 ish. Pretty mellow except for a little step across right from th... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Big Block : Bouldering Cave : Blockade (5.10a)
By: Robin When: Jun 2, 2009

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Comments: I think this is one of the better leads at the crag. Definitely scarier looking that it actually turns out to be.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Big Block : Block Wall : Photo
By: Robin When: Jun 2, 2009

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Comments: I'm sorry to be picky, but it should be mentioned that this photo is not of the block wall, but of the bouldering cave... The "Block Wall" is the vertical wall right of this cave.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Big Block : The Block : Cell Block (5.10a)
By: Robin When: Jun 2, 2009

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Comments: Wow! I was told this was 5.7!!


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Big Block : The Block : Cell Block (5.10a)
By: Robin When: Jun 2, 2009

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Comments: Thank you soooooo much for putting in the new anchor. No more bringing 40' of webbing to climb a 30' route.


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