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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Overhanging Layback (5.7)
By: Robert McGibbon When: May 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The "optional belay" tree in the corner is dead. It still has slings on it though. A better descent option to rap from the tree at the top of P2 to the bolts that are 25ft left of you when you're at the P1 belay. I'm not sure what route that is - something just right of co-ex.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Ken's Crack (5.7+)
By: Robert McGibbon When: May 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: really solid finger locks.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Three Doves (5.8+)
By: Robert McGibbon When: May 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bring a #3 for the 2nd pitch.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Hans' Puss (5.7 PG13)
By: Robert McGibbon When: May 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Do people normally rap from the GT after the second pitch? If so, from where? We did the (crappy) 3rd pitch and then rapped on Arrow. I didn't see any slings right where Han's Puss tops out on the GT, but it is possible to walk along the GT unroped at that point.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Higher Stannard (5.9-)
By: Robert McGibbon When: May 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Routefinding is a challenge on this one.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Coexistence (5.10d)
By: Robert McGibbon When: May 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Here's a better description. The start is at a left facing corner right of Try Again. Pull the start and head straight up to the fatty ledge 20ft up. Walk right 15ft along the ledge, and then follow the broken left-angling crack up, and through the overhang. Once you get to the broken left-angling crack, there's TONS of chalk. Beta is not that devious.
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge
By: Robert McGibbon When: Apr 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Perfect rock, easy approach and hundreds of routes? Sounds like the Gunks!
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Location: PA : Birdsboro Quarry : Hog Nose (5.11c)
By: Robert McGibbon When: Apr 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Goes up the prow just right of Itching to Climb
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Location: PA : Birdsboro Quarry : Face O Meter (5.10)
By: Robert McGibbon When: Apr 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Small roof. Just around the corner from the Zoro Face
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Airy Aria (5.8)
By: Robert McGibbon When: Aug 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The approach trail from the carriage road comes off between two large boulders and has a very prominent fork at a blazed tree twenty feet up or so. Airy Aria is to the right.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Osiris (5.7)
By: Robert McGibbon When: Aug 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The traverse left on fang ledge makes a STELLAR picture.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake
By: Robert McGibbon When: Aug 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There's another bolted route on a rock not listed here. I don't know the name of the route or the name of the rock, but its about 100 feet downhill from the walk off to the fin, on a gnarled, west-facing rock. There are two sets of anchors on the top, both of which are have easy walk offs and I believe neither of which have rap rings. The left (downhill) of the two anchors has a sport line underneath it that goes up through some big wild pockets. It's maybe 40ft and has three or four bolts. The ... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : Long Wall
By: Robert McGibbon When: Aug 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There's another route on the long wall all the way on the south side, near the walk off to the fin. I don't know the name or anything, so I'm not posting it as a route, but it's quite short and ledgy (4 bolts?), and the difficulty is around 5.7.
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Location: CO : Nonprofit Donations from ou...
By: Robert McGibbon When: Aug 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Spadout user name: rmcgibbo
Woohoo!
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : The Cave Exit (5.7+)
By: Robert McGibbon When: Aug 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: What an ending to Pear Buttress. An awesome bit of bouldering. I think it truly rounds out my Lumpy experience. Totally classic. Though I found it harder than 5.7, I am sure that my beta was totally off, so whatever. I believe the 5.7+ rating if you can figure out the right beta.
The pin is still there as of August 1, 2008.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Backflip (5.8)
By: Robert McGibbon When: Jul 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route.
We took a slightly different descent that I think is worth noting. From the big blocks at the top, we rapped down and then scrambled SOUTH (into the bushy gully between the Bookmark and the Bbookmark Pinnacle) another 15-20 feet to a rap station on a big chockstone. We took this down a FULL 30m (60m rope) to another rap station in the gully. Make sure to tie the ends of the rope, because it takes the WHOLE rope to get there. From here, we rapped straight to our packs.
Neither of t... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Kor's Flake (5.7)
By: Robert McGibbon When: Jul 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: We brought a number 5 and 6 C4, but I didn't place the number five. The six came in handy though. All these comments make it sound a lot harder and scarier than we found it.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Prospect Mountain : The Thumb : Zig Arete (5.10a)
By: Robert McGibbon When: Jul 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: On my first try, it took me forever (and falling) to figure out the crux. I thought "No way is that 10c, it's way harder". Now that I have beta that works for me, I think "No way is that 10c, more like 10b". My conclusion? Zig Arete is a difficult onsight, and 10c is a fair grade. The beginning is on jugs, but the crux is what makes the route.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Hen and Chickens : Cackle Crack (5.8)
By: Robert McGibbon When: Jul 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you've got it, bring your #4, especially if you're a newer leader.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : The 37th Cog in Melvin's Wh... (5.8)
By: Robert McGibbon When: Jul 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Splendid climb. Nick's descent beta is spot on too! The bolts you want to rap from (NW corner) at the top have chains, the other one's on the middle of the N side that you don't want only have rings.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Triangle Rock : EB Jeebies (5.8)
By: Robert McGibbon When: Jul 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Strenuous, but really fun. Definitely worth the effort,
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Gollum's Arch Rock : Frigidaire (5.7)
By: Robert McGibbon When: Jul 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Okay climb. Easy I thought for 5.7. 60m rap from the fixed slings (they look great July 08) gets you to the ledge perfectly and if you go east instead of straight down the walkoff from that ledge is even tamer.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Cottontail Crag : Pay at the Pump (5.11b)
By: Robert McGibbon When: Jul 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anyone have any info on the TR anchors ten feet left of pay at the pump (and the line under them)?
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Prospect Mountain : The Needle : Suburban Hangover (5.10c)
By: Robert McGibbon When: Jul 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: gillet's book says four bolts, but it's really five bolts to a two bolt anchor.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Prospect Mountain : The Needle : Momentary Lapse of Ethics (5.11a)
By: Robert McGibbon When: Jul 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Theres a variation that goes right to an alternate final bolt (painted black) and then right to the anchors on the next route over (Temple of Dog, 5.13?) at 5.11d instead of 5.11a.
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