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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : North Six Shooter Peak : Lightning Bolt Cracks (5.11-)
By: Robert MacKinnon When: Sep 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just did this recently and we were able to rap with a single 70m rope. The first rap (to the east) was less than 25m and the second rap (to the northeast) was less than 35m.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Hellgate East, Goatland Wa... : Culture Shock (5.10a/b)
By: Robert MacKinnon When: Jul 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fun crux but too much loose rock for 2 stars.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Batwings (5.8+)
By: Robert MacKinnon When: Jun 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: An amazing route with lots of variety! I don't think that the route is runout. Just before climbing the face at the top you can get several good pieces in if you want. I placed 2 med to small nuts, then 8 feet higher you can get good cams in (yellow and orange TCU's). From there it's maybe 10-15 feet of positive 5.4 face to the top.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Arrowhead Arete : Arrowhead Arête (5.8)
By: Robert MacKinnon When: Mar 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The knife-edge ridge was a fun bonus! I would have given the climb 3 stars if the approach wasn't so bad.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+)
By: Robert MacKinnon When: Mar 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fantastic, albeit over-crowded, route. Long, sustained, and steep for the grade!
Has anybody rapped the entire route with a single 70m rope? It looked close on the 7th pitch so we used a second rope to be cautious, but I'm pretty sure that all the other pitches can be rapped with a single 70m (we did most of them this way including the 1st pitch so it must not really be 130ft). The route doesn't wander much nor have a lot of loose rock making double or twin ropes less important. It would be ... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Escape Buttress : No Escaping Death (5.10a)
By: Robert MacKinnon When: Nov 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree that the climbing is pretty good (after the first three bolts). However because it is fairly dirty still and very sharp up higher I only give it one star.
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Location: International : Thailand : Krabi/Phra Nang Peninsula (... : Tonsai Bay : Fire Wall
By: Robert MacKinnon When: Sep 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Most of the routes here are in the shade by 2 p.m.
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Location: International : Thailand : Krabi/Phra Nang Peninsula (... : Railay East : Low Tide Wall
By: Robert MacKinnon When: Sep 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Routes (left to right):
A Walk In The Park
The Narsilion
Definitely Makes You Whinge
Strider
Low Tide
High Tide
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Location: International : Thailand : Krabi/Phra Nang Peninsula (... : Railay East : The Keep
By: Robert MacKinnon When: Sep 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Routes (left to right):
Genghis Bond
Tongue Thaid
Lom Mon (Cyclone)
Bottom Feeder
Nut Cracker
Medusa's Lover
Babo Does Thailand
Monkeys Bum
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Location: International : Thailand : Krabi/Phra Nang Peninsula (... : Railay East : Jungle Gym
By: Robert MacKinnon When: Sep 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Routes (left to right):
Focus On Your Abdominal Breathing
Climbers Viewpoint
Adaling
Viola
Canyon
Gang Ghaeng Ling (Monkey Underwear)
Masters Edge
Kactus
Settimo
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Location: International : Thailand : Krabi/Phra Nang Peninsula (... : Railay East : Duncan's Boot
By: Robert MacKinnon When: Sep 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Routes (left to right):
Lost Lek
Make A Bow
The Dark Side
The Voice Of Doom
Falling In Love
Alter Schwede!
Karaoke
Mai Prue
Top Knot
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Tower 1 : Bollocks (5.10a)
By: Robert MacKinnon When: Jul 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route starts in a small and short gully.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Tower 1 : Cause for Alarm (5.10b/c)
By: Robert MacKinnon When: Jul 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fantastic route with variety and exposure!
I agree that the crux is just after the third bolt and then the route eases up a bit, while the exposure increases.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Middle Bell Tower : Arm and Hammer (5.11c)
By: Robert MacKinnon When: Jul 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome route! Great exposure, fantastic views, and excellent rock (until the last pitch at least).
When I return I'll bring the following rack:
1 set of nuts, a single set of camalots thru #4 with an extra #2 & #3 each for the "Zion Curtain" pitch.
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Location: International : Mexico : El Potrero Chico : El Toro (The Bull) : Apache Line (5.11b)
By: Robert MacKinnon When: Jul 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route gives you an easier starting option to Land of the Free: 11b vs. the 11d standard start.
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Location: International : Mexico : El Potrero Chico : El Toro (The Bull) : Sesame Street Tufa (5.11c)
By: Robert MacKinnon When: Jul 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I haven't climbed this route but Dane Bass's book calls it 11c while my older Ed & Tami Wright guide considered it 11d. Anyone out there done it and care to comment?
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Location: International : Mexico : El Potrero Chico : El Toro (The Bull) : Underdog (5.10d PG13)
By: Robert MacKinnon When: Jul 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: You'll probably want a 70m rope with this one, although I think that we did it with a single 60m with a top-belay and then rapped straight down.
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Location: International : Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Virgin Canyon : Suicide Overlook : The Scariest Ride in the Pa... (5.9 X)
By: Robert MacKinnon When: Jul 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Scariest Ride in the Park has seen several 3-hour free-solo ascents.
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Location: International : Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Las Estrellas (The Stars) : Marklar (5.10+)
By: Robert MacKinnon When: Jun 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the Marklar, Marklar.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Ambush Wall. : Chug A Jug (5.8+)
By: Robert MacKinnon When: Jun 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route, too bad for the loose rock though; it's only small pieces but I was still happy to belay with my helmet on. Hopefully it'll clean up in the future.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Ambush Wall. : Bong A Long (5.9+)
By: Robert MacKinnon When: Jun 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun moves! If this route had better rock quality I'd give it 3 stars.
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Location: International : Mexico : El Potrero Chico : The Scrutinizer : Gringo Disco (5.11a/b)
By: Robert MacKinnon When: Jun 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: No single move seemed harder to me than 11a but the length makes it harder than most 11a's.
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Location: International : Mexico : El Potrero Chico : The Outrage Wall : Outrage Wall Proper : No Excuses (5.11a)
By: Robert MacKinnon When: Jun 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Apparently it is also possible to finish on the anchor for Eternal Fatalist or the anchor for A Fistful of Excuses.
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Location: International : Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Mota Wall : Juggalo (5.11a)
By: Robert MacKinnon When: Jun 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can place a medium-sized cam at the roof.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Glass Ocean and Environs : Glass Ocean (5.8)
By: Robert MacKinnon When: Jun 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A 70m rope easily gets you back to the base. This also allows you to TR Left Tributary (5.10d) and Right Tributary (5.11a).
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