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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : East Ridge (5.7)
By: Robert Henderson When: Aug 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't mean to offend, but this convoluted route description is in need of major editing. It reads more like trip report than a guide. Very confusing.
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Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Wolfs Head : East Ridge (5.6)
By: Robert Henderson When: Apr 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Here's some helpful info from a local that has climbed this many times.
1) The grassy ledges approach is faster than Tiger Tower IF they are dry.
2) I suggest roping up with about 1/2 your rope (to stay in contact,) crossing the "sidewalk" section which is 30' to a crack and traditionally rated 5.2 (not 5.5 as above.) Then continue with running belays until the first real tower is reached. Much of this terrain is 4th class w/ short 5.2 sections. This is the first 5 pitches in traditional d... more >>
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Cascade Canyon
By: Robert Henderson When: Apr 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Nick, the flat String Lk trail only takes 20-25 minutes. The boat takes almost as long when you count the wait, etc. However, there is a 7am boat most of the summer for the Exum climbing classes that is a few dollars cheaper than the regular fare. The boat is a good option for Symmetry Spire routes - just don't dwaddle as you might miss the last return trip.
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Mt Owen : Koven Route (5.4 Easy Snow)
By: Robert Henderson When: Apr 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't want to offend anyone but there seems to be a lot of poor advice in this Mt Owen section. Take it from someone who lives here, the traverse from Teewinot is not a good option for most people. It involves a 5400' ascent of Teewinot, tricky route finding on a long loose ridge, ascent of 2 peaklets one of which even has a name (East Prong,) a couple of rappels, steep snow/ice patches and takes hours longer than the Koven Couloir (unless your name is Rollo.) Using the traverse as a descen... more >>
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Mt Owen
By: Robert Henderson When: Apr 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The most common route of ascent is the Koven Couloir, definitely NOT the traverse from Teewinot (which is long and involved.)
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Photo
By: Robert Henderson When: Apr 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is not a common local designation.
"Cathedral Group" is usually applied to Teewinot, Owen & the Grand and mostly for the gothic view from the NE.
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Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Pingora : East Face, Left Side Cracks (5.7)
By: Robert Henderson When: Apr 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are two escapes if one chooses to use them. One is after the first 3-4 pitches, where the angle eases, you can traverse off to the left and rap/downclimb a wide low-angle gully. The other is the original east ledge route high on the rock.
Two good starts also. One is the parallel cracks in the middle of the face, the alternative (on crowded days) is a left-facing dihedral 30' to the left of the cracks. (see photo)
Plan on about 12 pitches, the most interesting are up high.
When I clim... more >>
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : Lower Exum Ridge (5.7)
By: Robert Henderson When: Apr 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are many options on this route. If the p1 chimney is too cold for the fingers, walk right around the corner and climb a 5.6 face that gets some morning sun. Also the face just right of the chimney is hard-to-protect 5.8. The Black Face, p5, has at least 2 crack lines about 8-10 feet apart. The right one is the traditional one but the left one goes, too. At the end of the pitch, instead of belaying in the alcove, one can traverse left to the edge of an arete and a dynamite belay stance... more >>
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : North Ridge (5.8)
By: Robert Henderson When: Apr 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I beg to differ. The Valhalla Traverse varies considerably as to conditions. In early season, the rocks beyond the Black Ice Couloir can be covered in verglas and very difficult to surmount without an axe & crampons. There also can be steep snow on the west side and the ramp leading down to the Black Ice Couloir varies as to snow or gravel. Don't take this path lightly.
Yes, in dry conditions, it's quick.
Another approach that we locals often take and is not mentioned here, is to ascend the ... more >>
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