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Member Since: Apr 5, 2010
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 8,675
Total Points: 30
Last Year: 10
Last 30 Days: 1
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 324 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 30 | Posts | Stars 171 | Ratings 123
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NC : Moore's Wall : The Amphitheater : High Wire (5.7+)
By: Robert Hutchins When: Oct 9, 2014

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Comments: Very good adventure climb. Should be done more often. To descend head right to the obvious trail for a relatively quick and easy walk off. This is much faster than scrambling over to Quaker State, and you don't have to worry about rapping through the traffic of a popular route.


Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : Resurgence Walls : Trundlasaurus Wall : Overhung and Underrated (5.8)
By: Robert Hutchins When: Aug 2, 2014

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Comments: Someone's attempt to retro this route had been erased. The bolt was not only a retro, but it was right beside easy to get gear, a drop-hands to the left, and an escape of the route to the right. Worse still it was also a retro of Passing Out Wolf Tickets. Be sure to bring gear if you aren't comfortable going to the anchor. 2 or 3 pieces are available in this area.


Location: NC : Pickens Nose : Top Rope Wall
By: Robert Hutchins When: Apr 25, 2014

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Comments: A nice small area with a couple of fun and interesting easy/moderate climbs. Unfortunately, the anchors at the top are unsightly and of mind-bogglingly poor execution. Its a shame this kind of thing happens in such a nice wilderness setting.


Location: NC : Pickens Nose : Top Rope Wall : TR Warrior Right (5.5)
By: Robert Hutchins When: Apr 25, 2014

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Comments: I've seen this one listed as 5.7, but it felt pretty soft for that. Seemed like a 5.6 lead. Assuming I'm talking about he correct route, this one had a very nice vertical crack feature and interesting mellow (but reasonably steep) climbing. A fun, safe lead would be classic if it continued another 20'.


Location: NC : Pickens Nose : Top Rope Wall : TR Warrior Corner (5.7)
By: Robert Hutchins When: Apr 25, 2014

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Comments: I've seen this listed as 5.6 in other locations, and don't think it is any harder than that if you do the 5.4/5 traverse in from the right.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain : Full Tilt Boogie (5.11c/d) : Photo
By: Robert Hutchins When: Mar 28, 2014

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Comments: It's definately PW, and odds are good I'm holding the rope.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Amphitheater : The Mummy (5.5 PG13)
By: Robert Hutchins When: Dec 3, 2013

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Comments: "PG13", really? For a climb of this nature, I'm not sure how much better gear you could wish for. Great climb, would be 4 stars if not for the relatively uninteresting final pitch. If pitches 1 and 2 are combined this makes one of the best moderate single pitches in the gorge.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge
By: Robert Hutchins When: Dec 3, 2013

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Comments: "typically low angle" is a pretty poor characterization of Linville Gorge. That is fine for Table Rock, but the vast majority of climbing in Linville Gorge is quite steep, regardless of the grade. I recommend updating the region description so that people do not get the wrong impression.


Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : Resurgence Walls : Rawlhide Wall : Cro-Magnon Crack (5.5)
By: Robert Hutchins When: Oct 29, 2013

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Comments: Reasonably fun climb. Shame R&B encroaches so much that it is virtually retro'ed.


Location: NC : Ship Rock : Main Tier : Boardwalk (5.8)
By: Robert Hutchins When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: Agree with Mike that arÍte finish is very aesthetic and more exposed. Probably still only 5.8, but probably good to be 5.9 climber because of the seriousness of the run-out.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain : Help Mr. Wizard (5.11-)
By: Robert Hutchins When: Jan 3, 2013

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Comments: It's been several years since I've done this (>decade?), but my recollection is that you can't get any good gear that keeps you from taking a nasty fall at the start. I think you can get some head gear with steel nut or ball-nut, but you are basically bouldering up to get the gear over bulge. Kind of a 9+/10a placement, if I remember. The gear you get over the bulge for the crux is great though.


Location: NC : Moore's Wall : The Amphitheater : Wailing Wall (5.6)
By: Robert Hutchins When: Apr 3, 2012

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Comments: Sorry to hear that S.Fischer. You might want to check the length
of your rope. It's a good thing that you didn't try the Q.State anchor with the rope, as it sounds like it wouldn't have been close to reaching. The only other possible way I can think of that wouldn't leave you with rope on the ground would be if the rope was dropped significantly cliff-left in the notch and left you down-hill a little bit.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Screamweaver Area : Pumping In Rhythm (5.11b/c)
By: Robert Hutchins When: Dec 22, 2011

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Comments: Great and improbable route. However, would caution against taking this one lightly. Despite the OPs comment about the "horizontals that eat up TCUs" on the face, the rock is very irregular, making the gear tricky to place. The face is much steeper than it looks, so the clock is ticking fast. Unless you cheat and step over into Southern Boys, there are no great stances from which place gear. The face is probably only a 10+ TR. The business is placing the gear on lead.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Test Pilots Buttress : Space Monkey (5.11c)
By: Robert Hutchins When: Dec 21, 2011

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Comments: Great pitch, and much steeper than it looks. Quite a mixed back with 5.10 finger crack (with Z Crack start) to a bush climb, to steep 5.11 face, to 5.10+ (?) bulge pull to a 5.9R heady slab finish. Should be in the rotation for local 5.11 gear climbers. The bad bolts that were likely the reason for this route's obscurity for so many years have been replace.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Wall : Wild Hickory Nuts (5.11b)
By: Robert Hutchins When: Dec 21, 2011

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Comments: Probably my favorite route at RB. Mega classic!


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress : Inner Peace (5.11a/b PG13)
By: Robert Hutchins When: Dec 21, 2011

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Comments: Great description by Tim. This is a route that should see more traffic than it does, but be sure you have solid 5.11 gear skills. Not a route you should attempt if the plan is to dog your way up, or if you don't have solid nut skills. Bolts have been upgraded in recent years (thanks Tim and Tim), so it shouldn't be passed up by solid 5.11 gear climbers as Bruce states. Note: much of the route goes in the shade pretty early, so do it in the morning on cold days.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress : Frosted Flake (5.9+)
By: Robert Hutchins When: Dec 21, 2011

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Comments: @JohnWesely
I also like this route as well or better than Shredded Wheat. Neither have the length of quality climbing to be mega-classic, but this has a little more at the grade. As far as Jamming, I agree with Stefanie and Nick that this isn't particularly stout compared to western cracks of the same grade. I tend to jam from a lieback possition on this, but if you feel really secure in the jams you can actually straight-in jam it and catch a good hip scum that takes much of the pump away, a... more >>


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress : Capt Crunch (5.10d)
By: Robert Hutchins When: Dec 21, 2011

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Comments: Fun climb, but would agree with Nathan that it is a touch soft for the grade (when dry). Wish it stayed more clean. As far as adding an anchor, I'm not sure how I feel about that, as the rap tree isn't that big a deal to get to, and you can still set up a TR with some long runners. As far as I'm concerned, any anchor would have to be placed in such a way that it still necessitates the top-out. You haven't finished this route unless you are standing on the ledge.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress : Shredded Wheat (5.11a)
By: Robert Hutchins When: Dec 21, 2011

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Comments: While unusually splitter for a NC route, it's hard for me to think of this one as mega classic compared to granite cracks in other states. It is pretty much nice 9+ climbing to a hard sequence. Used to consider it 10c, but feels more slick/polished now, and wouldn't argue the listed grade. As far as being the best finger crack in NC, I don't even think it's the best finger crack in Hickory Nut Gorge. REALLY good route, just too short and unsustained to be mega classic for granite-like cracks... more >>


Location: NC : Moore's Wall : North End : Mighty Mouse (5.11+)
By: Robert Hutchins When: Dec 21, 2011

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Comments: Used to be one of my favorite single pitches on the planet when it was 11c. Still great, but not as fun to me in its current 11d state. The crux sequence doesn't flow quite as it used to, and the difficulty is more condition dependent.


Location: NC : Moore's Wall : Sentinel Buttress : Circus Wall : Zoo View (5.7+)
By: Robert Hutchins When: Dec 21, 2011

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Comments: @RyanWilliams
The "classic" 7+ way pulls up as you suggested. It maybe feels a little less secure to some people, but is more moderate than the low (5.8?) traverse, and is less run if you are minimizing rope drag.

For some reason this route just never impressed me the way that others at Moore's do. I think there are better at almost all grades at Moore's, but I'm obviously in the minority. Having said that, NC doesn't exactly excel in its 5.7 offerings, so listing it as one of the best 5.7... more >>


Location: NC : Moore's Wall : Sentinel Buttress : Circus Wall : Break On Through (5.10a)
By: Robert Hutchins When: Dec 21, 2011

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Comments: Would probably rate this higher if it was more sustained at the grade, and if the climbing quality after the roof was better. Agree with Ryan that this is a good route to break into 10- as the opening 5.8 climbing, though having no difficult individual moves, tests the fitness and skills needed to protect 10- climbing. This route isn't just a boulder move.


Location: NC : Moore's Wall : Sentinel Buttress : Circus Wall : Air Show (5.8+)
By: Robert Hutchins When: Dec 21, 2011

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Comments: In my option, this route is far superior to Zoo View. Sustained, quality climbing with multiple moves near the grade, and a pump pushing the limits of 5.8 all by itself. Great introduction to Moore's gear and climbing style for visiting climber looking to do some of the more difficult routes, and a great option for the local looking to break into 5.9. Would put this in my top 3 of "5.8s" in the state.


Location: NC : Moore's Wall : Sentinel Buttress : Center Buttress : Edge of Fire (5.11b)
By: Robert Hutchins When: Dec 21, 2011

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Comments: Great route, and some of the best exposure you can find at the grade at Moore's. Would highly recommend for someone wanting a firewall adventure who isn't quite up to the other offerings. Any reason this is grouped with Central Buttress routes when it pretty clearly climbs the Firewall side, albeit the edge, of the formation?


Location: NC : Moore's Wall : North End : Vascular Disaster (5.11c PG13)
By: Robert Hutchins When: Dec 21, 2011

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Comments: Strange gear description by the OP. I think people would be better off if it just said "standard Moore's rack" than what was listed. I highly recommend gear at least down to a #2 TCU, and probably multiples in the in the #3TCU/#1 Friend range (maybe even #1.5 Friend range). I find tricams really nice on this route as they save weight on the opening pull, and the climbing is more moderate where you need doubles of any size. I agree with Scott on the opening at V3. Oth... more >>


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