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Member Since: Apr 5, 2010
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 8,163
Total Points: 46
Last Year: 16
Last 30 Days: 13
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 362 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 35 | Posts 4 | Stars 187 | Ratings 135
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Co-Pilots

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 (3)

Trad, 1 pitch, 75'

NC : Rumbling Bald : Test Pilots Buttress

Jan 22, 2016

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NC : Moore's Wall : The Amphitheater : Wailing Wall (5.6)
By: Robert Hutchins When: 3 days ago

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Comments: The anchor consists of at least three passive pieces on stainless steel cable, and is up on the wall above a notch. It was still there late Fall when I climbed it last. The anchor is not located where you top out. You have to step cliff right over the notch where you top-out and scramble back cliff-right over the little "hill" of rock and down the short slab. To locate it, just think of where the anchor would need to be to leave you 15'-25' uphill of the start of the climb when you rap. I... more >>


Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : Resurgence Walls : Rawlhide Wall : Cro-Magnon Crack (5.5)
By: Robert Hutchins When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Yeah, I would also recommend a gear anchor on this one. Shortly, that will be the second tree at the top of this climb that has died since I can remember. The other one has already long since fallen off the cliff. :( The original one made a nice anchor, though the pine needles were a pain to deal with.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Screamweaver Area : unknown (5.8 PG13)
By: Robert Hutchins When: Jan 20, 2016

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Comments: Sounds as if you are describing the bail option for the 5.9 that continues up throught the often dirty crack/bulge. This was the first route put up on the wall (can't remember the name at the moment). Much of the start of FSB is actually a retro of this route. If you can get someone to clean the crack, it is a very nice climb.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Romper Room : Buzz Buzz (5.4)
By: Robert Hutchins When: Nov 22, 2015

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Comments: The low ratings for this route are baffling. The only thing I can figure is that people without that much exposure to a variety of climbing are upset that they got sandbagged. This is a very nice feature, and very fun. Is it 5.4... almost certainly not, but it is a quality climb. Not recommended for a beginning leader though. My only criticism, other than the slight sandbag, is that the anchor is poorly places. The quality climbing continues noticeably beyond this, and protects well. That seems ... more >>


Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : Resurgence Walls : Trundlasaurus Wall : Passing Out Rox (5.10)
By: Robert Hutchins When: Oct 21, 2015

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Comments: If I had put up Passing Out Wolf Tickets this route wouldn't have lasted long. It is a horrible encroachment, with most people who climb POWT now clipping the 1st bolt of this because it is right in your face. Pretty much the same can be said for the rest of the route and Trundle.


Location: NC : Moore's Wall : North End : Windigo (5.11c PG13)
By: Robert Hutchins When: Aug 6, 2015

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Comments: Great climb, and has just the filters it needs to keep those not up to the task off of it. One of the wilder and more exposed climbs at Moores. I would disagree with one part of the recommendation though. After the opening, this should be done as one pitch. Far more satisfying, and no real reason to break it up.

Matt, I was told the opening corner was 5.8, but I would recommend treating it like a 5.9. I don't remember anything too "chossy", but I wouldn't take it lightly. It has slick f... more >>


Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : Resurgence Walls : Trundlasaurus Wall : Overhung and Underrated (5.8)
By: Robert Hutchins When: Aug 2, 2014

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Comments: Someone's attempt to retro this route had been erased. The bolt was not only a retro, but it was right beside easy to get gear, a drop-hands to the left, and an escape of the route to the right. Worse still it was also a retro of Passing Out Wolf Tickets. Be sure to bring gear if you aren't comfortable going to the anchor. 2 or 3 pieces are available in this area.


Location: NC : Pickens Nose : Top Rope Wall
By: Robert Hutchins When: Apr 25, 2014

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Comments: A nice small area with a couple of fun and interesting easy/moderate climbs. Unfortunately, the anchors at the top are unsightly and of mind-bogglingly poor execution. Its a shame this kind of thing happens in such a nice wilderness setting.


Location: NC : Pickens Nose : Top Rope Wall : TR Warrior Right (5.5)
By: Robert Hutchins When: Apr 25, 2014

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Comments: I've seen this one listed as 5.7, but it felt pretty soft for that. Seemed like a 5.6 lead. Assuming I'm talking about he correct route, this one had a very nice vertical crack feature and interesting mellow (but reasonably steep) climbing. A fun, safe lead would be classic if it continued another 20'.


Location: NC : Pickens Nose : Top Rope Wall : TR Warrior Corner (5.7)
By: Robert Hutchins When: Apr 25, 2014

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Comments: I've seen this listed as 5.6 in other locations, and don't think it is any harder than that if you do the 5.4/5 traverse in from the right.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain : Full Tilt Boogie (5.11c/d) : Photo
By: Robert Hutchins When: Mar 28, 2014

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Comments: It's definately PW, and odds are good I'm holding the rope.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Amphitheater : The Mummy (5.5 PG13)
By: Robert Hutchins When: Dec 3, 2013

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Comments: "PG13", really? For a climb of this nature, I'm not sure how much better gear you could wish for. Great climb, would be 4 stars if not for the relatively uninteresting final pitch. If pitches 1 and 2 are combined this makes one of the best moderate single pitches in the gorge.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge
By: Robert Hutchins When: Dec 3, 2013

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Comments: "typically low angle" is a pretty poor characterization of Linville Gorge. That is fine for Table Rock, but the vast majority of climbing in Linville Gorge is quite steep, regardless of the grade. I recommend updating the region description so that people do not get the wrong impression.


Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : Resurgence Walls : Rawlhide Wall : Cro-Magnon Crack (5.5)
By: Robert Hutchins When: Oct 29, 2013

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Comments: Reasonably fun climb. Shame R&B encroaches so much that it is virtually retro'ed.


Location: NC : Ship Rock : Main Tier : Boardwalk (5.8)
By: Robert Hutchins When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: Agree with Mike that arĂȘte finish is very aesthetic and more exposed. Probably still only 5.8, but probably good to be 5.9 climber because of the seriousness of the run-out.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain : Help Mr. Wizard (5.11-)
By: Robert Hutchins When: Jan 3, 2013

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Comments: It's been several years since I've done this (>decade?), but my recollection is that you can't get any good gear that keeps you from taking a nasty fall at the start. I think you can get some head gear with steel nut or ball-nut, but you are basically bouldering up to get the gear over bulge. Kind of a 9+/10a placement, if I remember. The gear you get over the bulge for the crux is great though.


Location: NC : Moore's Wall : The Amphitheater : Wailing Wall (5.6)
By: Robert Hutchins When: Apr 3, 2012

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Comments: Sorry to hear that S.Fischer. You might want to check the length
of your rope. It's a good thing that you didn't try the Q.State anchor with the rope, as it sounds like it wouldn't have been close to reaching. The only other possible way I can think of that wouldn't leave you with rope on the ground would be if the rope was dropped significantly cliff-left in the notch and left you down-hill a little bit.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Screamweaver Area : Pumping In Rhythm (5.11b/c)
By: Robert Hutchins When: Dec 22, 2011

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Comments: Great and improbable route. However, would caution against taking this one lightly. Despite the OPs comment about the "horizontals that eat up TCUs" on the face, the rock is very irregular, making the gear tricky to place. The face is much steeper than it looks, so the clock is ticking fast. Unless you cheat and step over into Southern Boys, there are no great stances from which place gear. The face is probably only a 10+ TR. The business is placing the gear on lead.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Test Pilots Buttress : Space Monkey (5.11c)
By: Robert Hutchins When: Dec 21, 2011

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Comments: Great pitch, and much steeper than it looks. Quite a mixed bag with 5.10 finger crack (with Z Crack start) to a bush climb, to steep 5.11 face, to 5.10+ (?) bulge pull to a 5.9R heady slab finish. Should be in the rotation for local 5.11 gear climbers. The bad bolts that were likely the reason for this route's obscurity for so many years have been replace.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Wall : Wild Hickory Nuts (5.11)
By: Robert Hutchins When: Dec 21, 2011

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Comments: Probably my favorite route at RB. Mega classic!


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress : Inner Peace (5.11a/b PG13)
By: Robert Hutchins When: Dec 21, 2011

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Comments: Great description by Tim. This is a route that should see more traffic than it does, but be sure you have solid 5.11 gear skills. Not a route you should attempt if the plan is to dog your way up, or if you don't have solid nut skills. Bolts have been upgraded in recent years (thanks Tim and Tim), so it shouldn't be passed up by solid 5.11 gear climbers as Bruce states. Note: much of the route goes in the shade pretty early, so do it in the morning on cold days.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress : Frosted Flake (5.9+)
By: Robert Hutchins When: Dec 21, 2011

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Comments: @JohnWesely
I also like this route as well or better than Shredded Wheat. Neither have the length of quality climbing to be mega-classic, but this has a little more at the grade. As far as Jamming, I agree with Stefanie and Nick that this isn't particularly stout compared to western cracks of the same grade. I tend to jam from a lieback possition on this, but if you feel really secure in the jams you can actually straight-in jam it and catch a good hip scum that takes much of the pump away, a... more >>


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress : Capt Crunch (5.10d)
By: Robert Hutchins When: Dec 21, 2011

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Comments: Fun climb, but would agree with Nathan that it is a touch soft for the grade (when dry). Wish it stayed more clean. As far as adding an anchor, I'm not sure how I feel about that, as the rap tree isn't that big a deal to get to, and you can still set up a TR with some long runners. As far as I'm concerned, any anchor would have to be placed in such a way that it still necessitates the top-out. You haven't finished this route unless you are standing on the ledge.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress : Shredded Wheat (5.11a)
By: Robert Hutchins When: Dec 21, 2011

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Comments: While unusually splitter for a NC route, it's hard for me to think of this one as mega classic compared to granite cracks in other states. It is pretty much nice 9+ climbing to a hard sequence. Used to consider it 10c, but feels more slick/polished now, and wouldn't argue the listed grade. As far as being the best finger crack in NC, I don't even think it's the best finger crack in Hickory Nut Gorge. REALLY good route, just too short and unsustained to be mega classic for granite-like cracks... more >>


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