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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice
By: Rob Quinlan When: Feb 17, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I flew over RMNP on Sunday afternoon, February 15th, and observed what appeared to be very wind-loaded and scary-looking snowpack in the Black Lake area, Taylor Glacier area, Andrews Glacier area, Tyndall Gorge area and Ptarmigan Glacier/Notchtop areas. Please be alert to avalanche potential when in these areas. Notchtop in particular looked prime for a slide, although all of the above looked real sketchy. There are cornices above most of the high cirques and lots of evidence of sloughing and... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Fourth Buttress : Northwest Face (5.8)
By: Rob Quinlan When: Apr 10, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fun and challenging route. We TR'd it and had a great time with the various route variations. The TR setup is very straightforward with many blocks on top to set up your anchor system. You will need a 60 meter rope to reach the pipe. The tunnel is dry and provides great access to the east side of the buttresses.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Boulder Canyon - Ice : Castle Rock/Lower Falls Ice : Middle Flow (WI3)
By: Rob Quinlan When: Mar 16, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Conditions in Boulder Canyon are excellent. Recent cold weather and snow have repaired the middle flow and it is in great shape. Opening curtain is in fat with lots of solid sticks below 3-4" of new snow. A guide teaching one client had main flow tied up for 4 hours while the rest of us scrambled around for whatever we could. What happened to sharing and working people in? First time all year I felt a little pissed off at anyone hogging the ice...My feeling is that guides should not be able... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Boulder Canyon - Ice : Castle Rock/Lower Falls Ice : Main Flow (WI2+)
By: Rob Quinlan When: Mar 9, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed the main flow today in snowstorm. The ice was still in good shape and is repairing itself nightly. Lots of verglass on the rock slab to the west of the flow. Looked climbable although we stayed on the main curtain. 3-4 inches of fresh powder but roads were fine...only a few accidents and no cars in the creek. The auxillary area to the east is also still building and was excellent. Too bad that freestanding [pillar] wasn't longer! Still good fun to be had in BC.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Boulder Canyon - Ice : Castle Rock/Lower Falls Ice : Middle Flow (WI3)
By: Rob Quinlan When: Mar 3, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Middle flow has built up nicely with the sunny days and cold nights. It is in to the top, although a little wet in the middle section. Left side of opening curtain is pretty fragile but leadable with care. Good tape at both rap stations. New flow at far left edge of lower area has also built up and is interesting and steep although very short. No drafting on this curtain, mostly fresh ice from overnight build-up. Makes for a great solo/bouldering area. Check pictures of middle flow in ice... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Boulder Canyon - Ice : Upper Falls - Ice
By: Rob Quinlan When: Feb 26, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Upper Area is still solid and climbable although stepped out and melting in spots. Running water under the ice and hollow hits on middle line are typical. Lower area is still growing from melt-off and holes in pipeline; cold nights repair damage from day before. Left side and middle are in to the top, although thin on top. Ramp looked to be melting away yesterday but it comes and goes...Alcove/curtain on left side is solid and makes for fun stemming and delicate tool placements.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Wild Basin : Hidden Falls : small flow (right) (WI4-5 M5+)
By: Rob Quinlan When: Feb 18, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Returned to Hidden Falls for a crack at the steep mixed line to the right of the main flow. After a couple of warm-up laps on HF main flow, we set up a TR and worked the mixed line. Thin WI5 start leads to transition section of WI3 and then the steep finish on rock. Overhanging vertical crack is crux. Drytool placements on horizontal ledges and in the crack are key to pulling through the slightly overhanging crux. Finish is steep but good holds for hands and feet. Very strenuous but lots o... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Wild Basin : Hidden Falls : Hidden Falls (main) (WI4)
By: Rob Quinlan When: Feb 11, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Trail in is packed but lots of dirt and rocks - don't use skis. Main flow is stepped out but still a challenge to lead due to difficulty placing screws in brittle ice. Julian solved problem by soloing to the top. No crowd at all on Sunday only two teams all morning. Careful climbing under others, saw several death blocks come down, one smashed my lunch. Belay from fallen tree but be alert and wear helmet at all times. Mixed line at right looks doable but thin at the start and mixed finish ... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Boulder Canyon - Ice : Castle Rock/Lower Falls Ice
By: Rob Quinlan When: Feb 6, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lower area is building nicely. Far left climb is in to the top although top section is quite wet. Middle climb in solid down low but peters out near the top. Short but fun curtain is good for laps. The Ramp is building and climbable but stepped out and ends short of the top. Walk-off is mostly dry and safe for hiking boots only. Lots of dinner plates and some brittle ice so watch out if anyone is above you and be careful where you belay from. Helmets are a must with all the traffic and de... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Boulder Canyon - Ice : Upper Falls - Ice
By: Rob Quinlan When: Feb 5, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anyone looking to get out for some ice action weekday mornings? I am available and flexible for some ice or mixed action in BC, RMNP or elsewhere...e-mail me at RQskyfun@aol.com if interested.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Boulder Canyon - Ice : Castle Rock/Lower Falls Ice
By: Rob Quinlan When: Feb 3, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lower area continues to build with melting snow on slopes above and more water coming out of the P.S. pipeline. Low-angle ramp now ready and several lines in to the top. Upper area is melting with the warm and sunny days but re-builds at night and is great in the mornings. I saw a 300-pound block of ice come crashing down yesterday (I was climbing above, thankfully) so be careful where you belay and always wear your helmet, even between laps.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Boulder Canyon - Ice : Upper Falls - Ice
By: Rob Quinlan When: Jan 30, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ice climbing in Boulder Canyon is open to everyone who wants to come up and participate. Don't be put off by the attitudes of some climbers who feel the BC ice is somehow "theirs". Come early, bring a good attitude and WEAR YOUR HELMET - especially when belaying. Conflicts between climbers at the BC ice has a long and colorful history - don't add to it with selfish actions. The "ice park" must be open to everyone for it to ever gain acceptance by the governing powers. Share the ice and we a... more >>
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