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Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Acid Rock : Sandinista (5.11b PG13)
By: rob bauer When: Nov 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I had the exact same experience a few yrs earlier and asked about in on the Acid Rock pg. (nobody clarified since then) I agreed with your assessment of the grade with the same questions about the old bolts to the left. Anybody? Seemed like it was Sandinista by the topo....
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Industrial Buttress : Fast Boat to China (5.8)
By: rob bauer When: Nov 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gosh, I've always thought that THIS was PP&BB, (so I was apparently lost, but I did it way over 10 yrs ago with the R&I topo?). [It's amazing what you learn with a book.] If you stay in the thin crack/acute corner, it seems 5.9+ [awkward with my size fingers] if you don't stem too much. (Further, I thought that the crack just right was an easier variation.) I stay in the corner until I get to the 2 bolt anchor. (I used nuts today and nothing larger than a 0.75 Camalot, though I essentially so... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Shenanigans (5.6)
By: rob bauer When: Oct 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Only climbed to the 3 bolts, on our way left, but what a great 5.6! (That black rock is tremendous.) We rap'd down left and did the Rumplemintz area routes. (It's 96 feet straight down to the river this time of year.) Another very good 5.5/6 back up to rap down to the tyrolean.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Rumplemintz (5.10+) : Photo
By: rob bauer When: Oct 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed all 3 today and I don't climb much in the 5.11 grade. I thought that the Red route [Rumplemintz] was the hardest at 5.10c/d and still has some friable edges. I concur with the Yellow route [Brennivin] 5.10b/c rating. I thought that the Green route [Brennivin variation] was 5.10a, and tremedously fun on great rock. All 3 pitches are well protected. (Disclaimer: I'm 5'8" and my partner is maybe 5'3" and she led the green route.) Go do them!
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Rumplemintz (5.10+)
By: rob bauer When: Oct 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gorgeous day today, and we climbed all 3 pitches shown in the detail photo, right, middle and left (red, yellow & green). Rumplemintz, was the hardest; probably 5.10c/d. I broke off a lot of friable edges, but it will clean up nicely. The middle (regular approach to Brennivin) was psychologically the hardest for me, but I'd agree with the 5.10 b/c rating. The right most variation was the easiest (and delightful!) and struck us both as about 5.10a on that great black rock. (Qualific... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Lower Tier : Like a Wonk (5.9)
By: rob bauer When: Oct 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: With belly to the bolts, the left hand variation felt fairly hard (.10c?) to me; I'm 5'8" and I hung, [but avoided the crack to the left]. I was expecting easier....
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : A Fly in the Ointment (5.10a)
By: rob bauer When: Oct 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this today, so no prior experience with the liebacks, and I'm no powerhouse at 52. I believe more pieces will break off, but don't think it will change the grade much at 10a. Didn't see the need for any larger than a .75 camalot. Nice climb!
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Location: * In Progress : Eastern Reef of the San Raf...
By: rob bauer When: Sep 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: any update? I'm leaving soon and it's the only place I haven't triangulated.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : The Other One (5.11a)
By: rob bauer When: Sep 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, what IS that other route rated? Harder than I usually try, but it seemed so inviting after The Other One. I got the last clip and went nowhere. I tried going straight up and failed miserably. (My partner deviously stepped up on the arete and crawled onto the right face and finished.) Straight up "power crimping," wide feet on the overhanging wall and using the high sloper on the face got me nowhere. (Neither did the sketchy slapping along the arete.) It would be nice to know what my l... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : GI Joe Does Barbie (5.9+)
By: rob bauer When: Sep 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I can't remember a harder 5.9+ route. I'm 5'8" and it seemed closer to 10+. I placed some opposed nuts in the horizontal, tried the moves and came down to find the handy safety stick. (Crack-n-Ups or RPs may have been useful, but I'm not sure; I was too busy stretching & sketching.) It goes OK and there is a lot of great footwork, but I wouldn't suggest it to a 5.9 climber. Nor would I add bolts, maybe just a PG/R rating.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Helen's Dome : Spree (5.8)
By: rob bauer When: Aug 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I counted 6 bolts to the anchors. Very civilized.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Mission Wall : Ground Control to Gumby One (5.9)
By: rob bauer When: Jul 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very fun. Only 5.9? A couple pieces of chain would improve the anchor since this will no doubt get traffic when folks are in the area.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Mission Wall : Ride The Snake (5.9)
By: rob bauer When: Jul 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I LIKE this route. We did it as 4 pitches in less than 2 hrs. About the crux, between 2 people and 3 leads, We've neither done the crux after the traverse. Even today, when I followed it, same as when I led it last year, I clipped the bolt and slapped around for the 5.9 holds; not finding what I considered the grade, backed down and traversed back over to the crack and moved up at 5.9 (IMO) rejoining the presumed line a few feet higher. (Turns out that's the way my partner led it al... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Twilight Zone : Freedom Fries (5.11)
By: rob bauer When: Jun 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I counted 13 bolts + anchors. Pretty cool!
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Crackside (5.9+)
By: rob bauer When: May 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: BTW, it's almost exactly 100' down to the good ledge. Good route.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : River Wall : Grilled Trout (5.10d)
By: rob bauer When: May 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Darren Mabe's book rated this 5.10a/b which seems about right. I'd suggest it if you liked the two routes to the left. (I did.)
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Trad Lands : BM Route (5.9)
By: rob bauer When: Apr 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did this today and vaguely remember the flake I used a few years ago which made it much easier. What's the consensus rating now that a huge amount of rock is now missing? (Glad I wasn't there for that.) It felt about 5.10b to me; I'm 5'8".
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Echo Tower : Photo
By: rob bauer When: Mar 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Assuming there is a prize: my guess is an ancient rusted (pre lost arrow?) pin that someone reslung and then bashed farther in using another pin as a piston. (Veeery clever for that guy, veeery spooky for those ever after.)
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge : Black Lake - West Gully (WI4) : Photo
By: rob bauer When: Feb 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Funniest caption I ever read! AND, it's almost exactly what I in 1977. (I was the other guy who had a RoosterHead.) Hell, I guess it's what we all had back then.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Photo
By: rob bauer When: Sep 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I bet these were mostly caused by toproping rather than wet ropes. I've seen grooves like this on lots of desert climbs, mostly 1 pitch climbs. We need to be mindful of rap placements and be willing to belay at he top to avoid this type of destruction whenever possible.
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell (south) : Eastern Reef Slabs : Mercury (5.8+ R)
By: rob bauer When: Apr 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: OMG,as the kids say, my rope just measured 184 feet!!! BAD NEWS FOR NEW ENGLAND ROPES, MY MAXIM EQUINOX 10.2, 60m ROPE IS NO BETTER THAN A 55m ROPE!!!! I am so bummed and I will change my comments. (First rope I ever bought that was short.) I will return it and measure every new rope that I buy. I will return it this week and change my notes on both spots with my apologies. Thanks for the heads up on rope length. (33 years of climbing dashed by the power of the internet, thank you.)
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell (south) : Eastern Reef Slabs : Mercury (5.8+ R)
By: rob bauer When: Apr 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: [revised] Beautiful climbing, poor protection. I couldn't reach the anchors with a 60m rope which turned out to be short! (Measure your rope; I'm NOT kidding, you need 200 feet.) I would welcome a few suggestions from the originators for roughly 2 extra bolts per pitch.
P1 Climb 100 feet to the double bolts. P2 Up left to the bolt and then follow those thin friable black dikes up right to the overlap and place a big nut or small cam, it's the only good piece on the pitch. I got a sma... more >>
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell (south) : Eastern Reef Slabs
By: rob bauer When: Apr 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: [revised] I enjoyed the climbing, my climbing partner of 20+ years was freaked out a lot, with cause. I bought a 60m rope just for the trip. It turns out hat my new rope was 15 feet short! Measure your ropes before you go because you need 200 feet ropes! To be fair, the author did suggest a bolt kit "if we got too far off route," but I was on route and still had some 100 foot runouts. (This is sandstone after all.) I'd bring a bolt kit and in retrospect wouldn't have felt bad putting a couple... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Left Handed Jew (5.8)
By: rob bauer When: Oct 31, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Out of curiosity, what the consensus rating going straight up above the overlap onto the face? (I thought vaguely committing 5.9+)
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Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Sheeprock : Land that Time Forgot : Riders in the Sky (5.10c/d R)
By: rob bauer When: Sep 18, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: A couple of my friends (without computer access) climbed this a few weeks ago and said don't add another bolt to the traverse, it wasn't needed. Neither claim to be slab masters, so I'd take that as a very reasonable suggestion that it isn't necessary; maybe a little spicy, but not dangerous.
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