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Contributions
| All (6) | Routes | Areas | Photos | Comments (6) | Posts | Stars | Ratings | |
Contributed Comments | | |
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : The Naked Hedge (5.10)
By: Rob When: Jul 30, 2005 | view comment >> | Comments: I climbed this route maybe 5 or 6 weeks ago and think that enough has been said to warn the wary. I always figure new routes will be a little loose (and so are old routes and mountain routes...it's just part of being outdoors). If you don't like some bolts, just skip 'em. If the anchor bothers you, burn a few biners and rap off the next few down. The bolts are already in, and I think it's nice to be able to spread out the climbers. Time will sort out the better routes, so I'd say leave it a... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Calypso (5.6)
By: Rob When: Jun 13, 2005 | view comment >> | Comments: I climbed Calypso with a friend on June 6th and couldn't get over how recently the flake must've fallen. Crisp fractures on the ground, lotta sand on the holds, vertical scars on the face. It struck me that the route didn't change that much. Maybe .5 grade harder (call it a 6+) for the slightly more sustained last quarter of the pitch. It may be an improvement since the rest was maybe out of character with the route? I'll bet new climbers to the area won't have much problem with calling it ... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Little Scraggy Dome : Two Jews Blues (5.10a)
By: Rob When: Mar 6, 2005 | view comment >> | Comments: I climbed it yesterday, and a 165' works fine. 2nd & 3rd pitches are even shorter. (Of course you'll need a 2nd rope if you're gonna rap.) Somebody ought to go pull that long jutting bolt without the hanger on the 3rd pitch. It's worthless, potentially dangerous and ugly.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice
By: Rob When: Dec 16, 2002 | view comment >> | Comments: If you want a good solo to do "like in Alps" do the Ames Ice Hose near Telluride, I've done a solo ascent of this one, it is the most "Alpine" type route in Colorado, the less ice the better. If you want to do an enchainment, Rigid Designator, The Fang and Secret Probation are all in condition at Vail, try climbing all of them solo in one go, I've solo climbed all three, though not all at once. If the ice climbing in Colorado is too easy for you, look at Rich Purnell's web-site m9ice.com, he has... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale Gorge
By: Rob When: Nov 24, 2002 | view comment >> | Comments: Okay, here's the deal. Sea of Vapors in February 1996 was in mixed conditions, not the "Canadian Girl" magnitude of the following 1996-7 season when it was Grade 5 with no mixed climbing. You had to climb Postscriptum, set up a belay and then traverse out right across steep limestone to gain thin ice. Everybody said how easy it was, but several people I know or know of took spectacular falls off this bit, ending up well below their belayer. After my ascent, everyone had the benefit of two key fi... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale Gorge
By: Rob When: Nov 8, 2002 | view comment >> | Comments: Climbed Mixed Emotions on November 3 with Irina and Free Strike Zone November 7 with Irina and Rich. Ice curtain is very much in "scarecrow" conditions with highly amusing dry-tooling needed to gain "ice" on left side. There is a fixed pin in place as you gain the ice, but the run-out is hardly trivial before you get a stubby ice screw. Both routes require Power Cams #3-9 and 3 screws, 10 & 13cm. ME is about M6+, WI6R, FSZ about M7+, WI6R. FSZ has three bolts and a pin, but be prepared for... more >>
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