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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Rough Canyon : Tabeguache Tower (5.9+ A1 R)
By: rob pizem When: Mar 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't mean to give it an aid rating, but I was unable to take it off.
The route goes 5.12, 5.11, 5.12-.
One 60 or 70 meter rope to get down.
It faces the south and can be climbed on a cold day in the sun!
There are anchors at the summit ASCA and at the saddle for rappel ASCA. A worthy adventure for those who love desert sandstone. Rap off the back into the gully, and then walk over to the other side for the final bolted rap station.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Rough Canyon : Tabeguache Tower (5.9+ A1 R)
By: rob pizem When: Mar 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ben Rueck and I freed this route at 5.12. Bring some thin pieces for the first pitch and gear to 5 inches. Doubles from the smallest stuff you have will work out great! Super climbing on pitch 1, and pitch 2 has a nice roof with a great squeeze chimney.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : The Access Fund Trailhead : ... : Echoes (5.12d)
By: rob pizem When: Mar 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beagle, glad you liked the route. It's not straightforward climbing, and that is what makes it nice! Let's get out and climb sometime.
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Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : One Night (5.13c)
By: rob pizem When: Mar 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice job, Taylor!!!
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Escalante Canyon : Zappa Wall
By: rob pizem When: Feb 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just to reaffirm that we are not trying to rename anything out here. It is just easier to refer to previously established routes (without a shared written history) with a name that is descriptive of the crack itself. Anyone with actual information (names) feel free to share them and they can and will be updated.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Escalante Canyon : Zappa Wall : Aid Line (Chockstone Roulet... (C1)
By: rob pizem When: Feb 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route actually fell down with this winter's rockfall! It doesn't exist up there anymore!
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Gateway Vicinity aka The We... : Gateway : ... : Immoral Disapproval (5.12-)
By: rob pizem When: Feb 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I took 2 #4s and a #5, and that was nice on the second pitch. You can do the route with one 80m rope, and you do not need to take a tag line for the raps. Also you can leave all the gear bigger than 3 inch at the top of pitch two, you do not need it for the last pitch.
Finally, the beginning of pitch two has a LOOSE pillar/block, be very careful about moving about on it. I was able to sway it but not remove it 'cause it's 20ft tall.
Otherwise, great route!
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Escalante Canyon : Zappa Wall : Mr. Sheeley (5.10-)
By: rob pizem When: Dec 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Slim, I was just out there this past weekend and noticed the new anchors. I was surprised about their appearance. I figured that it went to the top and wondered why they were there. I am glad that you identified the history of the pitch. I have not climbed it yet but will take it to the top next time to enjoy it all. By the way, if you head out, keep an eye for the HUGE rockfall to around the corner to the right. The entire column fell over, it is insane!!!
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Escalante Canyon : Zappa Wall : Green Cam Lie Back (5.11c)
By: rob pizem When: Dec 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is now a photo. I hope this helps.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Escalante Canyon : Zappa Wall : Mr. Sheeley (5.10-)
By: rob pizem When: Dec 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: For a picture, see the Zig-Zag photo.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Escalante Canyon : Zappa Wall : Zig-Zag (5.11-)
By: rob pizem When: Dec 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The dihedral to the left is Catholic Girls, 5.10.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Escalante Canyon : Cabin Wall : Four-Wheel Low (5.10)
By: rob pizem When: Dec 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a good adventure, and I suggest the #6. I didn't have one and wanted one badly. It got run out for me without one.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Escalante Canyon : Cabin Wall : Left-facing Corner (unknown... (5.11)
By: rob pizem When: Dec 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Watch where you place your cam in the roof in order to avoid getting it pulled into the crack when you lower off the anchors. Otherwise it is a fine little route.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Dynamite Shacks : Hobo Castle Area
By: rob pizem When: Oct 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks great, I will have to check it out!
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Quarry Wall : The Chalk of Destiny (5.11+)
By: rob pizem When: Oct 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: First pitch is a 5.10 variety show with a short bit of crumbly rock under the roof (easy to protect).
Second pitch is balancy and crimpy to finger jams. 5.11 range.
If you want, there is an open dihedral to the left of this pitch that is in th 5.9 range. I have not been able to clean it yet, but there is a small shrub or two on the way up. Cheers to anyone who bring up the hand clippers.
Overall, both pitches are clean for sending and will clean up even more with some traffic. Great climbing an... more >>
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : Hobo Jungle
By: rob pizem When: Jun 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great job D-ron, looks like a nice zone with some featured rock. Way to put the time in and get people psyched!
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Bang's Canyon : Unknown (.13-) (5.13b)
By: rob pizem When: Jun 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route is about 12+ to the biner left at the lip of the climb. After that, there is a rough boulder problem that puts the grade in the mid-13 range.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Quarry Wall : The Velvet Hammer (5.11+)
By: rob pizem When: May 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very fun route! Great job, Jesse. Sorry I missed the send!
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Quarry Wall : Rite of Passage (5.12a)
By: rob pizem When: May 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Classic line, a couple of bushes need trimming, other than that, awesome! Hard to call it 5.12 though.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Escalante Canyon : Zappa Wall : The Frank Zappa Appreciatio... (5.13+ PG13)
By: rob pizem When: Apr 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, slim, it has ruined my two pointer fingers, but I think it was worth freeing this pitch. It was way too fun to climb on!
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Escalante Canyon : Zappa Wall : The Frank Zappa Appreciatio... (5.13+ PG13)
By: rob pizem When: Apr 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks to whomever aided this line years ago. Also, when passing the bolt at the first crux, be sure to have an excellent belay. A fall could break your ankles/legs on the slab/ledge below.
I still have a jammed blue TCU after the first crux. If you get it out, please let me know. I would love to get it back. I didn't have time to work at it on my last day.
Lastly, this was not my style of crack. If you are strong boulderer and know how to jam. I wouldn't doubt that you will find it easier th... more >>
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Escalante Canyon : Cabin Wall : Cowboy Justice (5.12)
By: rob pizem When: Mar 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: After having given this a couple TR burns, it was clear that few people, if anyone else, have even tried this route. After one burn, I broke off nearly every hold that I grabbed. That being said, it is not 5.12 and most likely mid-5.13. It needs its own anchors and some cleaning and will turn out to be a fun climb. The opening moves are on some crappy rock and involve a shoulder breaker move on your left side as you pass the lone bolt. Climb over the bolt through a bit more junk to good placemen... more >>
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Rough Canyon : Solar Impact (5.12+ PG13)
By: rob pizem When: Dec 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch 1 is a 5.10 with some moves past blocks that you think will break. I pulled on them and removed the loose stuff. They may sound hollow, but they seem pretty sturdy. Belay at ledge and 2 bolt anchor.
Pitch 2 starts up the dihedral and out the roof (5.11 -). The gear under the roof should be slung or back cleaned in order to prevent rope drag (keep that #6 for after the roof). The flake at the top of the pitch seems sturdy enough. You will know what I mean when you get there. Belay on... more >>
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Rough Canyon : Solar Impact (5.12+ PG13) : Photo
By: rob pizem When: Dec 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The rectangle roof is on pitch 2 and to the left of the black streak above is the final pitch roof crack.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Rough Canyon : Rough Rider (thanks d-ron) (5.11-)
By: rob pizem When: Dec 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mike B. and I put this up after completing the FFA of Solar Impact.
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