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Third pillar of dana descent.


Member Since: May 8, 2011
Last Visit: May 21, 2014
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Point Rank: # 2,152
Total Points: 259
Last Year: 54
Last 30 Days: 0
31 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 251 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 42 | Page Improvements | Comments 29 | Posts 157 | Stars 11 | Ratings 10
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Texas Hold 'Em (5.11c)
By: Rob Fielding When: Nov 7, 2013

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Comments: We brought 3 #2's for the last pitch which seemed perfect with the fixed gear. We also brought some smaller cams which we used quite a bit. The bolts on the 5th pitch could use some future replacement, but there is some gear to the right in a flake system.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Bourbon Street (5.8+)
By: Rob Fielding When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: Nice work on the route guys! This was one my first routes in Red Rock and I did the first two pitches then traversed over to Frogland. I remember it was really exciting as I was only leading 5.7 n 8 at the time.


Location: NV : Rainbow Canyon : long classic corner (5.10a/b PG13) : Photo
By: Rob Fielding When: Jul 22, 2013

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Comments: Nice shot Rev!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Tango Towers : Crawford's Corner (5.10+ PG13)
By: Rob Fielding When: May 22, 2013

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Comments: 2 1/2" SS ASCA bolts w/ links were installed on the top of the second pitch.

This route is adventurous and the rock quality is questionable at times on the 2nd pitch... Use caution! I believe the story was erased on here, but a couple local climbers had some serious rockfall w/ a cut rope.


1st pitch: This was the most obvious line to get to the base of the climb w/ the least amount of crunchy rock. We tried to make it a lil less bushy, but it's still bushy. Climb 4th class shenanigans until y... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Jet Stream Wall : Cold Front (5.12b)
By: Rob Fielding When: May 2, 2013

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Comments: Sounds like a good line, lets see some pics!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Time's Up (5.11+)
By: Rob Fielding When: Apr 24, 2013

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Comments: This route has recently been replaced. Another classic Urisote route which has lost sight because of the old quarter inch bolts. The two 11 corners are fantastic, exposed, and technical on excellent rock.

When I spoke with Joanne, she was adamant about 1 to 1 replacement referring to this route as "her baby." Unfortunately, we didn't have enough time or will power to replace every bolt on this route. We did our best to choose the bolts that were not able to protect w/ natural gear first.

This ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : The Nightcrawler (5.10b)
By: Rob Fielding When: Apr 22, 2013

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Comments: The anchor has been restored a top of pitch 2. A 1/2" SS 5 piece ASCA bolt was installed near the previous bolt which had came out. The old hole was patched. We weren't able to get the wedged nut out, but it is somewhat hidden. Enjoy!

Also, there is now a optional rap descent off of Time's Up (Anchors replaced) if The Nightcrawler is a little busy. The route can easily be rapped with a 70m and possibly even a 60m. I'd stay on belay while traversing over to the times up anchors.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : All You Can Eat (5.10d)
By: Rob Fielding When: Apr 10, 2013

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Comments: The first two pitches are incredible! I'd recommend linking the two pitches together for one spectacular pitch. Also, on the second pitch i'd belay at the first set of anchors you come across because the rock deteriorates near the top.

I thought the variation to the right was at the same grade as the original 5.10c/d. The variation takes at least a #6 or maybe a big bro near the start, but liebacking up to the #3 section felt secure. Jump on this thing!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Mushroom People (5.10+) : Photo
By: Rob Fielding When: Mar 1, 2013

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Comments: I thought it was his "reach" until I saw his mustache flapping like a bird... Cheater!


Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : Photo
By: Rob Fielding When: Mar 1, 2013

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Comments: Should have brought my boots. Every step was "squish squish." Lol


Location: NV : Red Rock : Cactus Flower Tower : Cactus Flower Tower summit : The Warrior (5.11a)
By: Rob Fielding When: Feb 19, 2013

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Comments: ^^^^^^^

That's pretty funny! Perfect explanation for the approach, didn't want to sound like a baby, but I thought the exact same thing!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : Adventure Punks (5.10d) : Photo
By: Rob Fielding When: Jan 22, 2013

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Comments: Such a good pitch!!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Western Spaces Wall : Desert Solitude (5.10) : Photo
By: Rob Fielding When: Jan 6, 2013

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Comments: Seriously, that looks MmMmMmMm good.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Triassic Sands (5.10) : Photo
By: Rob Fielding When: Nov 10, 2012

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Comments: Brian, you a baller!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Cactus Flower Tower : Cactus Flower Tower summit : Blood on the Tracks (5.9)
By: Rob Fielding When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: Jumped on this thing yesterday, was excited to climb it ever since ya'll posted it up. I thought the route route was enjoyable, adventurous, stout, and bold. It's committing nature is was really brought me in, all natural belays. Retreat from any point would be somewhat difficult unless you want to leave gear. Far from a classic, but something a local in the area might want to jump on. I think the route will get better as it cleans up, but still is very fragile in a lot of areas.

As far as a ra... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Refrigerator Wall : Breakaway (5.10c)
By: Rob Fielding When: Oct 28, 2012

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Comments: Great Line.

1st pitch: A little runout, but on very easy terrain. Bring some extra gear for the anchor: 1-4"

2nd pitch: Climb on the left side on good, but fragile holds to the 1st smc bolt (5.9ish w/ no gear, but great feet), continue up the bulge clipping the next few bolts and placing some gear if you feel like it (0.3"-0.5" & 1" right above bolt), once past the initial 4-5 bolts, you're in the clear as long as you can withstand the pump. Save a 1" for the top after passing the last bolt an... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Refried Brains (5.9)
By: Rob Fielding When: Sep 25, 2012

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Comments: Rack: double to 2. Single to 3, 4, 5.

2nd pitch: step slightly left and up the face w intermittent crack systems. Stay in right facing corner aiming for the slot. This pitch is 180ft. Belay next to tree n then traverse down to anchors once Ya bring your partner up.

Doubles are a excellent choice for reducing rope drag on p4


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : The Delicate Sound of Thund... (5.11a)
By: Rob Fielding When: Sep 2, 2012

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Comments: Great route! First pitch is pretty burly, and I was just following it. The bolts need replacement on the first pitch so be very careful. Bring some small gear including rps.



Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Dark Shadows (5.8)
By: Rob Fielding When: Jun 1, 2012

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Comments: For Spring/Summer, the first 4 pitches don't get shaded until afternoon, maybe a little earlier.

Finally topped out on the route, wouldn't recommend the entire route for hotter Vegas days, you'll be baking in the sun on all the pitches and wishing you were in an ice bath.

The route is worth while to the top, lots of great pitches, you won't be dissapointed, the final 2 pitches have some shatty rock, you might want to stay roped up. As of 06/12, the South Pine Creek descent is very well cairned... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Fixx Cliff : Red Skies (5.11+ PG13)
By: Rob Fielding When: May 5, 2012

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Comments: Always enjoyable to see the old school climbers tearing it up back in the day. Ground up, bold, and Beautiful. Not to be taken lightly.

The first bolt is 30-40 feet up. Marginal gear to that point. RP's and a 0.5-1" in a flaring crack that might hold. The moves getting to the 1st bolt are in the 11- range.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Cactus Connection (5.11b)
By: Rob Fielding When: Apr 16, 2012

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Comments: That line looks rad, nice work!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : Challenger (5.10d PG13)
By: Rob Fielding When: Apr 10, 2012

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Comments: For a rack i'd suggest an emphasis on doubles in the smaller gear w/ your second set being tcu's or c3's. Rp's are a must.

70m rope works perfect, might want some extra webbing to change out the raps, we didn't have any trouble pulling the rope on the last two pitches, we pulled them towards the left.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Jet Stream Wall : Drifting (5.11c PG13)
By: Rob Fielding When: Apr 4, 2012

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Comments: 1st pitch - 8 bolts, No gear needed.

2nd pitch- Sustained and awesome. Bring the rack. Don't forget the RP's, thought that it was pretty heads up.

3rd pitch - amazing. Bolts/gear

4th pitch - crux is in the beginning, liebacking up a left slanting crack, then it's 5.8/9 climbing w/ spaced bolts on plates/petinas. Bolts/gear.

5th pitch - slab/petina climbing, bring a single 2 or 3" for protection in a horizontal after the 8th bolt.

Like others have said, you could probably go w/out the numb... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Inti Watana (5.10+)
By: Rob Fielding When: Mar 27, 2012

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Comments: This route is great. We combined it w/ Res for an easier way to top out on Wilson. The approach as of 3/27 is very well cairened, it would be hard to get lost. They're every 10 ft.

This route goes fast, especially if you bring a 70m. Combine pitches 1&2, 4&5, 9&10, 11&12. The guidebook is conservative w/ the rope lengths, we combined 4&5 w/ 20 ft left.

Crux pitches are 1 & 2, after that it's pretty smooth sailing. The 1st pitch has a heinous quarter incher that needs replacement. Pitches 9-12... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Upper Oak Creek Canyon : Coltrane (5.9 R)
By: Rob Fielding When: Mar 25, 2012

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Comments: Thought this route was great, reminds me of a tuolumne style slab climb w/ some pretty spaced bolts. Be prepared for a long hike out for the first time, as the approach is confusing.

For a rack, i'd suggest single rack to 2", an efficient party could go w/ much less, the emphasis is really on bringing the smaller gear to supplement the bolts on the first two pitches.... ya don't need much. I'd also suggest bringing half/double ropes for the last pitch.

The 1st pitch is the crux, after clipping... more >>


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