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Rock Climbing Photo: Rob at Fairhead, Northern Ireland. (Fairhead is li...


Member Since: May 8, 2009
Last Visit: May 14, 2016
Contact Rob Davies UK

Point Rank: # 174
Total Points: 3,297
Last Year: 315
Last 30 Days: 0
14 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Rob Davies UK been climbing?










Contributions


All 1194 | Routes 88 | Areas 69 | Photos 247 | Page Improvements | Comments 147 | Posts | Stars 368 | Ratings 275
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : Curbar Edge : ... : The Peapod (5.10a)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 13, 2015

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Comments: Hard and strenuous but well protected. Usually I think UK 5b means 5.9+, but this one seems harder!


Location: Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : Stanage Edge : ... : Cave Arete (5.8 PG13)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 13, 2015

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Comments: Easier if you have a long reach - harder than 5a if you're short.


Location: Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : The Roaches : ... : Saul's Crack (5.9)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 13, 2015

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Comments: Often green and damp beneath the overhang.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : J-Crack (5.9+)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 10, 2015

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Comments: UK climbers, be aware that the 5.9 rating for pitch 2 is probably worth E1/2 5b, as it is very sustained - not that many decent finger-locks, some shallow hand-jams, and it's quite difficult to get your feet secure in some spots.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Sport Land : Stayin' Alive (5.10a)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 10, 2015

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Comments: The very closely spaced bolting on pitch 2 gives it the feel of a very well-positioned UK HVS 5b pitch.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Le Nouveau Riche (5.10b/c PG13)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 10, 2015

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Comments: 5.10a for this route in the Boulder Canyon guide is presumably a misprint, as this is much harder other 10a routes in this area - there are several Pex Hill 5c moves between bolts 2 & 3!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : New Lease on Life (5.9+)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 10, 2015

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Comments: Squeezed in between two adjacent routes and hard to avoid holds on these.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Is It Ready Yet...Moe (5.9+)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 10, 2015

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Comments: Moving low on to arĂȘte by bolt #1 is hard (as in photo in guide), but there are also several interesting moves higher up.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Pine Cone Dome : To Bubb Or Not To Be (5.9)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 10, 2015

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Comments: Pitch 1 is OKish, but pitch 2 is just a ramble to the top of the crag.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Elevenmile Dome : Miss Wyoming (5.9)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 10, 2015

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Comments: Originally I added this climb to the MP database, though I now realize that I had actually climbed Face Value! Description above is now correct, allowing for the mislabelling of route numbers in Stewart Green guide. Miss Wyoming is distinctly harder than the two neighboring routes.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Elevenmile Dome : Face Value (5.9-)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 10, 2015

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Comments: As noted above, this is Route 6 on p. 337 of the Stewart Green guide but is mislabelled as Route 5 in the text. Great climbing with lots of hidden ledges.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Arch Rock : Waiting on a Resolution aka... (5.8 R)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 10, 2015

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Comments: Stick clip a good idea, to protect fluffable move up to first bolt.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Endless Wall : Dihedral Crack aka Red Dihe... (5.9-)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 10, 2015

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Comments: Pitch 1 is given 5.9 in the Stewart Green guide but is more like 5.7.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Industrial Buttress : Fast Boat to China (5.8+)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 10, 2015

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Comments: A few tricky bits and polished like Stoney Middleton, so probably worth HVS 5a in UK grades.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Middle Parallel Space (5.9)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 10, 2015

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Comments: Brilliant but a gruesome struggle on the initial crack - our leader so far forgot himself that he SWORE (more or less continuously). Airy belay spot and exciting on pitch 2.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Valley Massif : Screw (5.7)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 10, 2015

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Comments: Awkward for a few moves in the chimney. UK grade VS 4c or Ogwen Valley V Diff.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Valley Massif : Nail (5.7)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 10, 2015

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Comments: A worthwhile outing, though a bit disappointing for **** as shown in The Voo guidebook.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Valley Massif : Soft Touch (5.5)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 10, 2015

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Comments: The bulge near the top seemed like a 5.8 move to me. In UK terms it's mostly HS 4a with a VS 5a crux. Good climbing, great line.


Location: Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : The Roaches : ... : Rubberneck (5.9)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Jun 29, 2015

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Comments: Stretch those legs before you start!


Location: Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : Stoney Middleton
By: Rob Davies UK When: Jun 19, 2015

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Comments: Since most of the crag is south-facing it gets the sun all day. As it is also low-lying and usually sheltered from the wind, it is often possible to climb here even in the middle of winter when the higher gritstone crags are much too cold.

But Stoney is notorious for the very polished holds on the more popular routes!


Location: Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : Froggatt Edge : ... : Sunset Slab (5.7 X)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 4, 2014

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Comments: US climbers used to, say, Tuolumne should have no problems, as Sunset Slab is shorter and easier than reaching the 1st bolt on many Tuolumne slab climbs, even ones that don't rate "R"!


Location: CA : Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Hogsback : ... : Deception (5.6)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 3, 2014

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Comments: Carrying straight up on P2 (5.7, small cams protect) seems easier than the 5.6 traverse!


Location: CA : Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : The Groove (5.8 PG13)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 3, 2014

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Comments: The initial move off the ground is tricky (UK 5a) but a knee is useful for older, inflexible climbers like myself. The main groove is a bit repetitive with slippy layaway moves between rests. Alpine experience ( = always take the easiest line) encouraged me to move left then back right on P2, avoiding the mantle move altogether!


Location: CA : Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : East Wall : East Wall (5.6)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 3, 2014

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Comments: Excellent, with 3 good and contrasting pitches.

In UK terms the grade would be mild VS: P1 4c [for the tricky initial move], P2 4a/b, P3 4c. P2 is technically the easiest but in some ways is the hardest to lead, due to the route-finding and exciting positions. Unless you're tall and/or unfazed by the big drop beneath you, getting started on P2 - moving out left, then balancing up to get hold of the improving dikes - may require a few deep breaths before you get moving!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (b) North Face : El Whampo (5.7)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 3, 2014

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Comments: Some very good pitches, notably the crack on P2 and the long slabby layback on P5. Of the 3 5.7 pitches (trying to follow Bob Gaines's description in "Best Climbs") the middle one (a move round an overlap on P4) seemed the hardest, UK 4c or thereabouts. I'm unclear about the easiest line for the traverse right out to the crack at the start of P2 - if you go low from the belay it's well protected but there is a tricky move to start the cracks (UK 5a?): I think Gaines suggests going right 10' hi... more >>


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