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Rob at Fairhead, Northern Ireland. (Fairhead is like Indian Creek beside the seaside.)


Member Since: May 8, 2009
Last Visit: Oct 6, 2014
Contact Rob Davies UK


Point Rank: # 164
Total Points: 2,982
Last Year: 183
Last 30 Days: 60
9 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Rob Davies UK been climbing?










Contributions


All 1014 | Routes 79 | Areas 67 | Photos 212 | Page Improvements | Comments 127 | Posts | Stars 306 | Ratings 223
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : ... : Sunset Slab (5.7 X)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 4, 2014

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Comments: US climbers used to, say, Tuolumne should have no problems, as Sunset Slab is shorter and easier than reaching the 1st bolt on many Tuolumne slab climbs, even ones that don't rate "R"!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Hogsback : North Face : Deception (5.6)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 3, 2014

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Comments: Carrying straight up on P2 (5.7, small cams protect) seems easier than the 5.6 traverse!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : The Groove (5.8 PG13)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 3, 2014

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Comments: The initial move off the ground is tricky (UK 5a) but a knee is useful for older, inflexible climbers like myself. The main groove is a bit repetitive with slippy layaway moves between rests. Alpine experience ( = always take the easiest line) encouraged me to move left then back right on P2, avoiding the mantle move altogether!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : East Wall : East Wall (5.6)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 3, 2014

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Comments: Excellent, with 3 good and contrasting pitches.

In UK terms the grade would be mild VS: P1 4c [for the tricky initial move], P2 4a/b, P3 4c. P2 is technically the easiest but in some ways is the hardest to lead, due to the route-finding and exciting positions. Unless you're tall and/or unfazed by the big drop beneath you, getting started on P2 - moving out left, then balancing up to get hold of the improving dikes - may require a few deep breaths before you get moving!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : North Face : El Whampo (5.7)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 3, 2014

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Comments: Some very good pitches, notably the crack on P2 and the long slabby layback on P5. Of the 3 5.7 pitches (trying to follow Bob Gaines's description in "Best Climbs") the middle one (a move round an overlap on P4) seemed the hardest, UK 4c or thereabouts. I'm unclear about the easiest line for the traverse right out to the crack at the start of P2 - if you go low from the belay it's well protected but there is a tricky move to start the cracks (UK 5a?): I think Gaines suggests going right 10' hi... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Maiden Buttress : White Maiden's Walkaway (5.1)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 3, 2014

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Comments: Excellent at the grade - except for the fact that it's in the wrong country it would definitely be included in Classic Rock! UK grade would be Severe, I guess.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Eagle Pinnacle : Finger Lickin' Good (5.7)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 3, 2014

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Comments: Pleasant. UK grade mild VS 4c. No more than 60' long. Gear up to 1".


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Eagle Pinnacle : Goblin (5.10a R)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 3, 2014

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Comments: If this is only 5.10a then my technique on friction slabs is clearly lacking! Even after failing to lead it and resorting to a top-rope, the crux move felt like UK 6a to me, which the usual grade conversion tables would suggest is 5.11-something!! I suspect this climb gets a relatively low grade because the hardest moves are very safe, right next to closely-spaced bolts. Use of side runners takes the sting out of the less safe R bit.

Total length is 60' rather than 100'.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Left S... : Captain Hook (5.7)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 3, 2014

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Comments: Brilliant in retrospect, though a bit of a fight while you're actually doing it. The start of pitch 1 would get HVS 5b in UK - tricky but with good small wires, then maybe HVS 4c for the top section of the pitch which is unlikely and intimidating, though relatively easy once you commit to it.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Phantom Spires : Shark's Tooth : 1-bolt Arete (5.8)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 3, 2014

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Comments: Guidebook had total length as 25' with the bolt at 15' but I'd estimate 35-40' length with bolt at 20-25'. There's an uninspiring sling over a knob before the bolt is clipped. The move off the ground is 5a/b in terms of UK technical grades (and the move above the bolt isn't much easier) so the given grade of 5.8 seems ungenerous.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Phantom Spires : Middle Spire : Regular Route (5.8)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 3, 2014

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Comments: P1 would be top end VS 5a in UK for the awkward start - the remainder of the crack is wide hands 4b.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Daff Dome, South Flank : Guide Cracks 1 (5.8)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 3, 2014

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Comments: Tough for the grade, though short. UK grade top end VS 5a: a bit reminiscent of Altar Crack at Rivelin Edge.

It's possible to continue past the bolt anchors up easier ground to give a 200' pitch, then walk down.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Murphy Creek : X- Wing (5.9)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 3, 2014

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Comments: Worthwhile, with a series of interesting layaway moves at the crux where reasonable holds and gear keep turning up. UK grade HVS 5a.

Wrap the rope round a huge boulder at the top for a very solid belay.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Murphy Creek : Pac Man (5.8)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 3, 2014

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Comments: Qhite stiff for the grade: HVS 5a in UK terms.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Murphy Creek
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 3, 2014

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Comments: Quite hard to locate, as only the top of the cliff is just visible at the point where you leave the trail. At our first attempt we walked past it completely and as a result spent a happy couple of hours finding other crags much further up the valley.


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : Wales : Snowdonia : ... : Seams the Same (5.10b)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Nov 5, 2013

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Comments: Distinctly harder than its neigbour, despite the name. It's a bit tricky where the crack kinks left, after which it gets easier.


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : Wales : Snowdonia : ... : Seamstress (5.7)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Nov 5, 2013

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Comments: Many people's first route on slate as it's easy and well protected by wires and cams


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: Sorry to nitpick, but I can't help it: "more unique" - q.v. Description - is bad English.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Elevenmile Dome : Original Sin (5.9+)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: First bolt at 20' is really hard to spot, but we found it with aid of opera glasses!. A wire would make the finishing moves more comfortable.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Plumb Line Crag : Kasha (5.7+)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: OK by Vedauwoo standards - would get about VS 5a at Ramshaw.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Lower Progressive (5.9+)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: Note for UK visitors: We failed miserably on this. I suspect hard E2 or E3 would be an accurate translation of "5.9"....


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Etude For The Left Hand (5.5)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: Starting move is way harder than 5.5 - about UK 5b with potential to clout your knees as you ungracefully slip off. The local equivalent of Verandah Buttress?


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall : Drop Zone (5.10a)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: Note for UK visitors: be warned, local grades are weird - this has some thin 5c moves at the start (maybe I just couldn't see the footholds) and is F6b or 6b+ overall.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall : Cold Finger (5.7)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: UK visitors be warned: this would get a technical grade of 5b at the Etive Slabs.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall : E.O. Friction (5.5)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: Easy enough, but I suspect it would be rated 5a (i.e. ~5.9) on Scotland's Etive Slabs where there are no bolts!


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