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Rob at Fairhead, Northern Ireland. (Fairhead is like Indian Creek beside the seaside.)


Member Since: May 8, 2009
Last Visit: Sep 6, 2014
Contact Rob Davies UK


Point Rank: # 166
Total Points: 2,922
Last Year: 123
Last 30 Days: 0
9 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Rob Davies UK been climbing?










Contributions


All 958 | Routes 78 | Areas 66 | Photos 208 | Page Improvements | Comments 112 | Posts | Stars 287 | Ratings 207
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : Wales : Snowdonia : ... : Seams the Same (5.10b)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Nov 5, 2013

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Comments: Distinctly harder than its neigbour, despite the name. It's a bit tricky where the crack kinks left, after which it gets easier.


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : Wales : Snowdonia : ... : Seamstress (5.7)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Nov 5, 2013

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Comments: Many people's first route on slate as it's easy and well protected by wires and cams


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: Sorry to nitpick, but I can't help it: "more unique" - q.v. Description - is bad English.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Elevenmile Dome : Original Sin (5.9+)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: First bolt at 20' is really hard to spot, but we found it with aid of opera glasses!. A wire would make the finishing moves more comfortable.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Plumb Line Crag : Kasha (5.7+)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: OK by Vedauwoo standards - would get about VS 5a at Ramshaw.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Lower Progressive (5.9+)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: Note for UK visitors: We failed miserably on this. I suspect hard E2 or E3 would be an accurate translation of "5.9"....


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Etude For The Left Hand (5.5)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: Starting move is way harder than 5.5 - about UK 5b with potential to clout your knees as you ungracefully slip off. The local equivalent of Verandah Buttress?


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall : Drop Zone (5.10a)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: Note for UK visitors: be warned, local grades are weird - this has some thin 5c moves at the start (maybe I just couldn't see the footholds) and is F6b or 6b+ overall.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall : Cold Finger (5.7)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: UK visitors be warned: this would get a technical grade of 5b at the Etive Slabs.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall : E.O. Friction (5.5)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: Easy enough, but I suspect it would be rated 5a (i.e. ~5.9) on Scotland's Etive Slabs where there are no bolts!


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Turret Dome : Upper Arch (5.9)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: There is some confusion between the guidebooks. As far as I can remember, the left-hand line of bolts on this wall is listed as Most Toppest in the Schmidt guide (I don't have it to hand), but his diagram shows it further left than the left-most line of bolts and he gives it 5.7. In Stewart Green's guide, this line is shown as P1 of Junior Jules Doinks a Digit, 5.10b.

5.9 or 5.9+ seems about right (though it comes as a bit of a shock when you're told it's a 5.7 "jugfest"!) as there are some v... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Backstreet Wall : A-Frame (aka A Street) (5.9+)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: More strenuous than technical, but there are some slippery footholds. Chew Valley HVS.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Springer Gulch Wall : Lichen Cleavage (5.8)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: In a 3 week trip to Colorado this year, the hardest move I met was by bolt #4 on this route ("5.8"!!) - even with a rope above me, I fell off a couple of times before managing the teetery step-up and lunge to get the good hold above the crux. In UK technical grades, it's probably worth 6a or F6c.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Pine Cone Dome : Harder Than It Looks (5.9-)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: We couldn't see how to do the undercling manoeuvre (excessively weak arms?), so ended up having to climb the face to the left by the bolt - a couple of UK 5c moves.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Pine Cone Dome : Don't Go (5.9+)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: A soft touch, which makes a pleasant change. UK grade would be VS 4b with a bit of a run-out up the easy flakes higher up.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Gobbler's Grunt (5.9)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: Classic. No really hard move but lots of it: UK pitch grades 5a, 5a, 4c. Worth good E1, I thought, as it's like doing 5 Hen Cloud HVSs stacked on top of each other. If you go straight up at the flake roof on P2, instead of stepping left, you get involved with a 5.8+ offwidth (and then move across left to the usual sloping ledge stance) which adds to the fun.


Location: CO : South Platte : Deckers : Java Dome : South Face : Quit Yer Beachin' (5.6 R)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: Despite the lowly grade, I declined to lead this one, as the start has an absolutely lethal landing before you can reach the first clip at about 25' - a big crevasse filled with evil leg-breaking blocks.

Reaching the start involves clambering over and under huge blocks, some of which seem to be made of granite breadcrumbs - a touch Alpine. The whole crag seems little used as there is not much in the way of an approach trail.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Boulder Wall : Grave Line (5.9+)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: Nasty start (UK 5c) to reach first bolt - thanks to someone for the use of the clip-stick!


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Butt Wall : Little Flatulence (5.8)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: Borderline VS/HVS with a very slippery start.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Holiday Road (5.8)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: Tricky finish - UK 5a.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Gondolier Arete (5.10-)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: Good moves up the arete - easier than it looks - to a crimpy Harmers Wood 5b finish.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Route Canal (5.9-)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: Straightforward (huge relief compared to trying Vedauwoo 5.9!!!) with a little bit of UK 5a bridging at the top.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Brown Cloud Rocks : Big Dihedral (5.8)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: Good line - much like gritstone but less aggressive. Awkward move near top, low end HVS 5a in UK terms.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Hogsback : Hogwild : It's Better with Bacon (5.8)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Sep 14, 2012

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Comments: I'd say P1 is the crux to lead as protection is poor until you reach the thin left-slanting crack (UK grade HVS 4b/c). The start of P4 has harder moves (long reaches; UK VS 5a) but very close to bolts. It seems very contrived to go direct round the overlap on P3 as there are big holds just to the right. With double ropes it's easy to make 2 abseils back dowm.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Hogsback : Hogwild : No Gaynor (5.8)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Sep 14, 2012

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Comments: This gets 5.9 in the Supertopo guide but it seemed easier than the alleged 5.7 next door. One tricky move at about 30' and the rest is no more than 5.6. Very well-protected apart from the traverse to the bolts.


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