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Rock Climbing Photo: Half dome Cables


Member Since: Mar 6, 2010
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact Jan Tarculas

Point Rank: # 888
Total Points: 894
Last Year: 87
Last 30 Days: 2
24 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jan Tarculas been climbing?










Contributions


All 1296 | Routes 7 | Areas | Photos 128 | Page Improvements | Comments 184 | Posts 465 | Stars 288 | Ratings 224
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Oct 7, 2015

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Comments: probably only used to sit on while putting on climbing shoes


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Dike Wall : East Face : Black Lassie (5.10d)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Oct 7, 2015

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Comments: one of the best 10s I've ever done. Really good movement and balancy at certain sections


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Highway 38 Crags : Frustration Creek : Lower Tier : The Expedition (5.11b)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Sep 29, 2015

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Comments: just did the route today, bolts and hangers all look good. Mussy hooks for anchors


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Highway 38 Crags : Frustration Creek : Lower Tier : King Under the Mountain (5.10a)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Sep 29, 2015

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Comments: NO perma draws and no official guide book to the spot


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear South : Black Bluff : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Sep 27, 2015

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Comments: pay attention to this photo. Very helpful because it re-assures you that you're on the right track


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear South : Black Bluff
By: Jan Tarculas When: Sep 27, 2015

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Comments: Went here for the first time last week. Probably the best crag I'ved climbed at in Big Bear area. Crag isn't hard to find once you spot the cairins from the parking area. The trail is heavily marked with plenty of cairins to get you to the right spot.

trail beta: You will eventually hit a logging road with a climbing sign right before it. Head left on the logging road passing another climbers sign into a huge open field. Pay attention of cairins and head straight through the open field and slig... more >>


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear South : Black Bluff : ... : Aurora Borealis (5.9)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Sep 27, 2015

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Comments: I used a #4 C4 down at the bottom and just kept bumping it up before the traverse left. No bigger piece needed at top. Can easily be done with a single rack .5-4 C4 with a set of nuts


Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : The Tramway : Area 51/Deer Canyon : Yo Picasso (aka Sunshine Da... : Sunshine Daydream (aka Yo P... (V4)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Aug 4, 2015

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Comments: BETA ALERT

If you know how to hand jam this climb feels more like a V3. I was able to relax and chill half way up the problem and get really bomber hand jams in the horizontal and vertical crack midway up. Knee bar helps


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Aug 1, 2015

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Comments: Must have been a lot hard with all that tape on the hand


Location: CA : Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jul 17, 2015

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Comments: No need to pay $5 if you have a National Park Pass, just display on your dash


Location: CA : Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Surrealistic Pillar (5.7)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jul 16, 2015

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Comments: I agree with doing this in 2 pitches.

With a 70M rope I set up my 1 belay after the wide crack ends on a good ledge. I believe I used a #3 and a #2 C4 + something else for belay, but many options up top. You don't need a #4 or anything wider for this route. Plenty of small gear for the mid section of this route. Midway up is a fix piton next to the wide crack. I traversed left right before that piton and didnt even clip it. I also didn't see the traversed unitl I saw a small c... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : West Wall : Hospital Corner (5.10a)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jul 16, 2015

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Comments: Amazing route, one of the best 5.10s I've done.

I did this route 7/14/15, the route gets sun around 2pm. I rapped with the 70M and only had a few feet to spare from pitch 2 anchors to the bolted anchors for pitch 1. You can possibly get away with a 60 with a little bit of downclimbing but I'd be very very carefuly. I did see anchors on the right you can possible rap to with a 60meter like what the comment above said.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: just got back staying in the campgrounds. Fees increased to $26/night. I remember paying cheaper last year. Crazy how much it cost to sleep on the dirt nowadays


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Puppy Dome : Battle of the Bulge (5.8)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: Not R rated like supertopo book suggest. Agree with Vit regarding first 20 ft. protects really well with TCUs. My first piece was a red TCU that was actually hard to get out on the rappel. 2nd piece was an orange TCU then after are finger to hand size placements.

I think a 5.8 leader doesn't need to think twice about this route. Good pin scars for holds and good feet while placing gear down low. Crux is at top pulling pass a bulge. No need to use knees, use that hand and toe jam.


Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : The Tramway : Shangri-La Valley : The Alcove : ... : Power Windows (V6-)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jun 29, 2015

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Comments:



Location: CA : High Sierra : 13 - Whitney and Surroundin... : Lone Pine Peak : Bastille Buttress - Beckey ... (5.10d A0) : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Apr 25, 2015

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Comments: did you guys bivy at the base or get an alpine start from the car/camp site


Location: profile : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Mar 26, 2015

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Comments: what route is this


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilks Main : ... : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Mar 14, 2015

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Comments: oops forgot to say "jk" those are actually my dogs. they're just passed out cause it's their 3rd day running around


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilks Main : ... : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: why isnt the dog helping with the spot


Location: North America : Canada : Northwest Territories : The Cirque of the Unclimbab... : Lotus Flower Tower : ... : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Mar 5, 2015

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Comments: wow cool looking route


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Dream of Wild Turkeys (5.10a) : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Feb 28, 2015

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Comments: clark!


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (f) Torture Machine Area
By: Jan Tarculas When: Feb 25, 2015

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Comments: I 2nd Colin's comment


Location: Dave Holliday : Macro shots : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Feb 23, 2015

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Comments: this would look really rad on print with a good frame


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Ginger Cracks (5.9)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Feb 23, 2015

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Comments: Lead this on 2/20/15.

Suggested rack:
doubles .4-#3 C4 with a few small pieces. I placed a .2 and .3 x4
I brought a rack of nuts and only really placed 1 just so I can say I used it. So if you don't want to bring extra gear I'd just leave it at home.

Have your cordalette slung into a quad before you start the climb. 4 pitches have bolted belays with the 5th pitch the only one needing an anchor. the scramble pitch can be combined with the last pitch to the top...I opted to do the last ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Straight Shooter Wall : Orange Clonus (5.10d) : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Dec 29, 2014

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Comments: KNEEELLSOOOOONNN. UUPPPP ROOOOPPPPEEEE


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