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Rock Climbing Photo: Half dome Cables


Member Since: Mar 6, 2010
Last Visit: 13 hours ago
Contact Jan Tarculas

Point Rank: # 873
Total Points: 893
Last Year: 90
Last 30 Days: 6
24 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jan Tarculas been climbing?










Contributions


All 1276 | Routes 7 | Areas | Photos 128 | Page Improvements | Comments 183 | Posts 452 | Stars 284 | Ratings 222
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Epinephrine (5.9) : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Aug 14, 2016

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Comments: what's the protection like in this spot


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jul 12, 2016

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Comments:
David Collings wrote:
Quick question on camping... it seems the NPS Campgrounds only open in mid July, but climbing is popular in June. Where do climbers stay in June/early July? Can you stay the NPS sites when they are closed? We're not too keen to stay all the way over near Lee Vining on the BLM land.


All the campgrounds in Tuolumne open when highway 120 opens (I believe). I've camped in the Tuolumne Meadows campgrounds listed above end of Ma... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : DAFF Area : Daff Dome West Face : Crescent Arch (5.10a)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jul 7, 2016

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Comments: I did this with Ben (above comment), he lead and I lead 20 ft after him using majority of his gear and adding some of mind. I did West crack to the left a year ago and felt that was way way easier compared to this route. If West Crack is 5.9 this is no way 5.9+ or 10a from what people suggest


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Range : Cathedral Peak : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jul 5, 2016

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Comments: very helpful. once on this trail its pretty easy to get to the base. There are cairins on the slabs, kinda veer away from the river/stream when you hit the slabs


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Range : Cathedral Peak
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jul 5, 2016

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Comments: Did this route July 2nd, 2016 (my 31st bday) and heard large groups at a belay up top about bailing because of coming storms. I don't think they ended up bailing but did leave 2 cams and other gear at belay ledge. Describe the belay ledge, cams and gear, including what you used to mark, my favorite beer I will be getting and I'll send you gear back. If no one responds I guess I got new gear for my birthday along with a great top out.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Dream of Wild Turkeys (5.10a)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jun 18, 2016

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Comments: DO NOT rappel off the 4th pitch. The known crack eating rope killer did just the thing to my rope. It has joined the family of stuck ropes in that crack and I had to cut my 70meter rope. And it couldn't even be someplace near the ends where it couldve made it a little shorter. It had to me near the 45meter mark on one end


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (f) West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes : ... : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jun 15, 2016

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Comments: I belayed slightly different from the positions posted here. If you move slightly higher than what is posted, it creates a little less drag. If you look at this photo, pitch 2 belay/top of pitch 1, move about 10-15 feet higher to the next brush puts you closer to the roof/crux of the route and closer to your climber. Also for pitch 3 belay, you can move higher up next to the orange colored wall to belay.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mount Carmel Tunnel : Headache Area : The Headache (5.10)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Jun 7, 2016

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Comments: Only did the first 2 pitches because of time constraint but SUPER CLASSIC! one of the most fun I've had on a short multi-pitch route. Should be on your top 3 list to do here if not doing a big wall.


Andy's gear beta is spot on.

Did this in June and it gets afternoon shade this time of the year.

Rappel options if only doing the 2 pitches...2nd pitch doesn't end at a tree with slings, it ends on a comfortable ledge with a bolted anchor. You can rap straight to the ground from here using 2 60m ... more >>


Location: UT : Lake Powell : Bullfrog Bay Area : Bowns and Long Canyon : The Ring Breaker (5.9) : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: May 24, 2016

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Comments: sick


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (u) Northeast Buttress : Etude (5.11a)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Apr 3, 2016

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Comments: as of 4/2/16 there is still 1 pin at top before the crux moves

route can be TRed with a 70M rope using the anchors on top of the 1st pitch, but very close, tie your knots


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Where's Carruthers? (5.10c)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Mar 29, 2016

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Comments: I really liked this route. I think I placed a .75 and two #1 c4 at bottom, maybe a #2 also? Rest of he route takes #3s and also placed an older 3.5 c4 and also a #4 up top before the anchors


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Dairy Queen Wall : Dairy Queen Wall - Right Si... : Frosty Cone (5.7)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Feb 22, 2016

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Comments: The anchors on top look brand spanking new with 2 rap rings on each bolt. I would avoid the down climb. Saw another party ahead of us attempt and just resulted going back to up to rap


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Dairy Queen Wall : Dairy Queen Wall - Right Si... : Mr. Misty Kiss (5.7+)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Feb 22, 2016

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Comments: I agree with comments above. Felt harder than Frosty Cone 5.7 to the left and Double Cross. Pumpy route with slick holds. Gear anchor up top, I used a .75, #1 and #2 C4


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Dairy Queen Wall : Dairy Queen Wall - Right Si...
By: Jan Tarculas When: Feb 22, 2016

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Comments: I was just on this wall on Friday. I can confirm that there are new rap anchors on top just as the photo shows on the description page


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Filipino Wall
By: Jan Tarculas When: Feb 22, 2016

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Comments: Was this wall called Filipino wall because it was established by a Filipino?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : Lost Horse Wall - Right Sid... : Bird on a Wire (5.10a)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Feb 22, 2016

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Comments: Route wanders left to right, right to left quite a few times. Extend your draws if you can


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (e) Right of the Roof : Automatic Static (5.11b)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Dec 3, 2015

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Comments: Chains and fixe draw have been added to the ring anchors for the route.


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (d) Roof Area : Delirious (5.11b)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Dec 3, 2015

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Comments: Added chains and fixe biner to the anchors on top yesterday. Enjoy

Broken hold still not there after 4th bolt or so, after the first buldge. Most people I see now go way right on the arĂȘte, make a few moves up then back left


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (f) Torture Machine Area : Conundrum (5.11a)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Dec 3, 2015

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Comments: I added chains and fixe carabiner to the anchors of this route. Lowering of the rings of the original anchor were notorious for twisting up the rope because the angle they were drilled in.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Birdland (5.7+)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Nov 15, 2015

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Comments: Did a repeat of this route this past Saturday after about 4 years ago. If you're comfortable leading 5.10 I would just bring a single rack 0.4-3 C4, set of TCUs or same size small cams and a rack of small nuts.

Build a quad since all belays are bolted


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Bloodline (5.11a) : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Nov 11, 2015

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Comments: I know those guys!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Crags : ... : John Fischer Memorial Route (5.10c)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Nov 2, 2015

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Comments: We did this route in 4 pitches using a 70M rope on 10/30/15.

Doubles from really small gear 00/0 TCU to .75. (or equivalent) for the crux pitch and singles #1-3 BD C4s. I would say the #3 C4 isn't mandatory. I only placed it once and only did that so that I can say I used it. Bring at least 16-18 trad draws and extend everything.

Beta to keep the drag down:

Link pitch 1 and 2: Have leader clean the 2nd bolt once 3rd bolt is clipped on 1st pitch. Past 1st set of anchors and conti... more >>


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (n) The Alcove : Shwazzle Dazzle (5.11c)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Oct 19, 2015

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Comments: I think this is just as hard as Raging Raptors 12a, but than again I've done raging raptors a dozen times. I'll revisit my opinion when I actually figure out the beta and get the red point before the anchors.

Heady getting to the 2nd bolt.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Photo
By: Jan Tarculas When: Oct 7, 2015

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Comments: probably only used to sit on while putting on climbing shoes


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Dike Wall : East Face : Black Lassie (5.10d)
By: Jan Tarculas When: Oct 7, 2015

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Comments: one of the best 10s I've ever done. Really good movement and balancy at certain sections


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