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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Elephant Rock - East : Pretzel Logic (5.10a)
By: RKM When: Aug 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I can't believe this route is not more popular. I never see anyone on it. Two or three parties will be backed up on Rye Crisp and Just Say No, while this route sits empty. Good hard climbing at the bottom and top (with bolts) and fun 'protect you own climbing' in the middle. I think it is 10.b. You can do it with two big friends - like a 3" and a 4".
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Upper Breadloaves - West
By: RKM When: Aug 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Built for Comfort, Muffin Top and Love Handles.
These three new Dave Bingham routes are excellent. Great staging area, right off the road, perfectly bolted and thought out anchors. Shade in the morning. A great place for having fun.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Bath Rock : Bath Rock - Southwest : Immortal Porpoises (5.8)
By: RKM When: Aug 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fun route. In the shade until noon. Good but creative protection. Suprised it is not more popular given how many people are lined up to do Rollercoaster and/or Colossus.
Also, there are NO belay bolts on top. Twenty feet back from top out is a 3" crack. Easy walk down.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : The Bungle (5.11- PG13)
By: RKM When: Aug 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Originally climbed with just the two old bolts - one down low and the other above the crux on the slab. We placed a lost arrow in the crack and backed it up with half a dozen nuts. A bolt there is probably a better idea.
Also, this was a Dave Houser aid route before we free climbed it.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Parking Lot Rock - West : Suburban Sprawl (5.10- R)
By: RKM When: Jul 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this is one of the best routes in upper 'City'. The climbing is cool. If the first bolt were below the crux moves, instead of above it, it would be very popular and take a lot of the heat off of Batwings and Delay of Game.
I like committing routes, but if you blow the hard move below the first bolt, the results would really hurt.
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Symmetry Spire : Southwest Ridge (5.7) : Photo
By: RKM When: Jul 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dude! Is there any good route you haven't done?
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Photo
By: RKM When: Apr 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Diedre - one of the best climbs at Squamish!
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Telluride : Ames Wall : Ames Ice Hose (WI5 M6 R) : Photo
By: RKM When: Feb 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Classic Smoot and Wyatt. Probably same trip you guys nailed Bridal Veil in Telluride.
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Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Fanis Group : ... : Spigolo Sud aka the South R... (5.7)
By: RKM When: Jan 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Your right Brian, the descent from this summit is not only a classic Dolomite hike - but a tour through history. It's amazing what the people of the era did to protect their country.
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Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Pomagagnon Group : ... : Photo
By: RKM When: Jan 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Classic shot of the "Fiames Arete"
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Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Fanis Group : ... : Torre Piccola di Falzarego ... (5.6 PG13)
By: RKM When: Jan 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Doing these two routes in an afternoon from Cortina is a perfect choice. Both are reasonable solos. I've done the Comici both ways. If you solo, I took a light 150' 7mm cord for the rap off of Piccola. If you want to risk it - you probably can catch a rappel from other parties and not take the rope (sort of like coming off the Grand Teton). The Torre Grande is a walk off or light scramble to the north and then west.
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Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Fanis Group : ... : Torre Grande di Falzarego W... (5.5 PG13)
By: RKM When: Jan 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Doing these two routes in an afternoon from Cortina is a perfect outing. Both are reasonable solos. I've done the Comici both ways. If you solo, take a light 150' 7mm cord for the rap off of Piccola. If you want to risk it - you probably can catch a rappel from other parties and not take a rope (sort of like coming off the Grand Teton). The Torre Grande is a walk off or light scramble to the north, then west.
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Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri : ... : East Face "Via Finlandia" (5.10b/c PG13)
By: RKM When: Jan 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Cinqui Torri is the perfect place for a day or two (or three) of climbing. Easy access on a chair lift. Resturant in the hut. Easy paths to all of the climbs that are only minutes away. Routes range from 2 to 6 pitches. Standardized and fixed rappels.
Finlandia is one of the best and steepest.
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Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Pala Group : ... : Photo
By: RKM When: Dec 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I love this picture and keep coming back to it. It says so much and has the feeling of history. A little before my time - but classic!
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Location: RonB : The things I do... : Photo
By: RKM When: Dec 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This place is killer. Just guessing - but I'll bet RonB is armed.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Photo
By: RKM When: Dec 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great photo, just unbelievable. The weather at City of Rocks never ceases to amaze me. This could be an afternoon storm following a perfect cloudless morning - followed by the perfect and calm evening.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : King on the Throne : King on the Throne - West : The Awakening (5.11a)
By: RKM When: Nov 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route was popular and climbed for years without the bolt. It was added in the mid 80's.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Elephant Rock - East : Sinsemilla (5.8 X)
By: RKM When: Nov 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the best routes at COR. Never a line!
And, if you clip any of the bolts on Just Say No, you're off route and doing a different climb called; Just Say No To Sinsemilla!
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Location: International : Europe : Spain : Mallorca : Sa Gubia : ... : Photo
By: RKM When: Nov 10, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: These photos look exactly like El Potrero Chico.
Nice!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : Dark Horse (5.11 R)
By: RKM When: Sep 10, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just a little history about Dark Horse to go along with the old scanned pictures. I have climbed it four or five times. Probably twice with Mark Ward, once with Bryce Thatcher, once with Steve Bowen and once with Brandon Pack. I've worn EB's, PA's, Mekan two lace system high tops, and Moccasym's (with soaks, of course). The last time was probably '91/92
Only one bolt was placed on rappel (the first or second bolt of pitch two). That was used during our rappel from the Fin Arete to get a cl... more >>
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Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Photo
By: RKM When: Sep 7, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This looks very familiar - sort of up on a hill, looking west!
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Photo
By: RKM When: Jun 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This picture is 'killer'. I love the weather at City of Rocks. Wild stuff!
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Steinfell's Dome : Theater of Shadows (5.7)
By: RKM When: Jun 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just a tip on the rappel for Theater of Shadows. You can get away with using a 150 rope or shorter (less than a 75' rap) and then just walk straight off into the gully (north). This makes the climb possible for a light solo with a thin short cord.
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Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Second Sella Tower : Kasnakoff (5.8)
By: RKM When: Mar 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Kasnakoff is a great shorter day climb with an easy approach. Better and longer than the Messner North Face and with the exception of Messner's first pitch, about the same in difficulty. Stay close to the arete and make sure to move around to the right-west side at the right place. Upper pitches are fantastic.
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Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Punta Delle Cinque Dita
By: RKM When: Sep 23, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The 'Thumb' on Funffingerspitzen is one of the best of the short moderate Dolomite climbs. You can take the lift to the Demetz Hut for a few Euros. The approach is literally five minutes. I found the climb to be 9 pitches with 6 rappels. Steep and exposed but at a moderate level (5.6/5.7) if you stay right on the edge. I took a light 7mm, 150’ line for the rappels. The first two are obvious from the summit south. In the notch at the base of the second rap, follow a line of polished rock a... more >>
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