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Location: karabin museum : martys photos : Photo
By: rickd When: 2 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments:
that is foul. nice find!
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Lost Canyon : Shangri-La (5.12+) : Photo
By: rickd When: Nov 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: right on.
just say no to bolts.
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Lost Canyon : Shangri-La (5.12+) : Photo
By: rickd When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Would have been prettier with drilled angles in the crack vs bolt out on the face. Also, I can't give the photo a "great" mark as the draws are in place.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Finger Rock : Finger Rock (Standard Route... (5.8)
By: rickd When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I actually called Jan C. 12 or 13 years ago to talk about things. I had a great chat and she sent off a terrific letter back with more details. She assumed it was the FA but pretty obvious landmark for someone to stumble up before Herb and Jan hit town.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Temple of Sinawava : Swoop Gimp or Be Dust (5.9 C3) : Photo
By: rickd When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: wow. too much nailing!
on the FA of this pitch I only had two sets of ball nuts (could have used 5 sets) and placed 20 LA's which required nut tool cleaning prior to all placements as the crack was filled with schmutz and were all meticulously removed by my second MAD. I cleaned one 4' tall block but otherwise. I am still getting the sand out of my eyes 20 years later.
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Location: AZ : Baboquivari Peak : East Face : Southeast Arete (5.6) : Photo
By: rickd When: Nov 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: her left hand looks light in that photo...
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Location: AZ : Mendoza Canyon (aka Coyote ... : Elephant Dome : Elephantiasis (5.10 PG13)
By: rickd When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 20' of good climbing, miles of poor rock (and I like poor rock)
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Location: AZ : Panther Peak : Ol' Snaggletooth : Gingivitis (V0) : Photo
By: rickd When: Oct 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That landing just sucks. So many pebbles may hurt your tushie.
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Location: AZ : Winslow Wall : The Hanging Judge (5.12a)
By: rickd When: Oct 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: from the insert by Larry Coats, Rock and Ice #21, sept/oct '87 pg 11.
First Ascent: Tim Coats and Tim Toula
First Completely Free Ascent John Steiger and Ray Ringle
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Marg's Draw Area : Grand Orcaface Tower : Three Amigos (5.10-)
By: rickd When: Oct 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: ....before the internet and only armed with the photo of Larry Coats on the first pitch we thought we had found Firecat Spire. We tried to traverse in the long limestone bad to the corner as the direct looked much harder than 5.10. After bailing, we tried the next corner left (downhill) which went- although we had no idea about how to summit. We found the bolt ladder (and the wrapped blocks from the FA of the tower!), but no aid gear made us rap off. We saw Firecat from the rap and I returned 2 ... more >>
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Marg's Draw Area : Grand Orcaface Tower : Maid in the Shade (5.8+ C1-2 R)
By: rickd When: Oct 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I started up the left chimney and had to tension traverse off a bolt to center chimney after encountering really bad rock. It goes, but now the loose stuff is clear in the center var.
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Location: AZ : Granite Mountain : Right Section : B.A.RB Variation (5.10- R)
By: rickd When: Oct 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: B arry, A lan, RB (Rand)
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Location: AZ : Photo
By: rickd When: Oct 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: R&B is 5.10-, thin hand (exit the lower flare) and cups (near the top)- and yes it overhangs the whole way:
http://mountainproject.com/images/77/43/105967743_large_abd4>>>>>
Downclimb a 5.6 chimney or rap off a single bolt (to SW). Since Windy Walks is ringed by multi-mullion dollar homes in a gated subdivision best of luck on a commando ascent. It is 500-700 feet of boulder hopping up the east side to get to the summit. You can approach from any point of the base, but the shortest is the east... more >>
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Punch and Judy Towers : Photo
By: rickd When: Sep 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: OUTSTANDING!!!
did you bill the contractor?
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Location: AZ : Granite Mountain : Middle Section : Cinnamon Girl (5.10 R)
By: rickd When: Sep 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: p2 is correct and is really all that is important about the route.
Legend has it the leader was trippin balls on the FA. It belays at the big crack on Kingpin above that route's crux. On the 3rd, Greg is right, you climb the crack, traverse right, climb that crack, and then traverse back left.
the "last pitch" is really just an end variation to right (rated 5.11a on Rand Black's map 1990). Everything goes up the green corner (Sorcerer, Kingpin, Cin-girl, Once in Blue Moon, Blowin' (?))
Greg i... more >>
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Location: AZ : Navajolands : Central Reservation Climbs : Chinle Spire (N. Face) (5.9 A4)
By: rickd When: Sep 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: p1 easy corner ramp to 5.9 wide (bolt protected) or 5.8 A.0, 2 bolt belay
p2 "A nail" to hangerless slop, some free, couple bolts, tcu's to ledge, couple bolt things, critical tcu/sm camalot, hollow block hand jamb to ledge- 2 bolt belay
p3 bolt "things" and 3/8" hangerless bolts to some free, 2 bolt belay
p4 5.8/5.9 free (or A.0) to single pin bolted to wall. two stoppers to critical 3 camalot/3.5 friend in excavated hole.
summit has 4 fixed pieces for rap. Raps 55m to top of 1st pitch, 35m to... more >>
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Location: AZ : Pinnacle Peak : Pinnacle Peak : Tongue of Time (5.7 R)
By: rickd When: Sep 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: since Y crack is grade 5, so are all other peak wide classics!
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Location: AZ : Pinnacle Peak : Pinnacle Peak : Hades (5.10-)
By: rickd When: Sep 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: since Y crack is grade 5, so are all other peak wide classics!
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Location: AZ : Pinnacle Peak : Pinnacle Peak : Deliverance (5.11)
By: rickd When: Sep 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: since Y crack is grade 5, so are all other peak wide classics!
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Location: AZ : Linda Vista
By: rickd When: Sep 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've been bouldering there since 1990 and others years before me. Roped climbing has been going on there pre 1990 as well. It is not new. Chris' routes and development of that wall are certainly new in retrospect.
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Location: AZ : Phoenix area buildering : ASU main campus : Math Chimney (5.8 X)
By: rickd When: Jul 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: this route predates 1984/5 when I first saw the bolts while @ ASU.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Chimney Rock : FIUTT (5.9)
By: rickd When: Jul 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: you know I like the direct finish as well- consider it for the next go round.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Chimney Rock : Single Lens Reflex (5.10)
By: rickd When: Jul 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Direct finish requires a #6 HB brass if I remember correctly. I see that the chopped bolts would pose an elimination of the pucker factor on the direct (and cut short the route). Maybe a bolt above the ledge system out left could allow a solid piece for a vertical finish (10+ feet left of direct) and toward the good gear belay on the ledge above. I stepped left today and went way up to the ledge and rapped back to the ledge to belay my second because of rope drag- a little PITA...
And why ... more >>
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Location: AZ : Grand Canyon National Park : Brady Peak (5.6)
By: rickd When: Jun 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: nice link with many details- I hope the link outlives this site.
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Location: AZ : Grand Canyon National Park : Brady Peak (5.6)
By: rickd When: Jun 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: any chance you can describe the access?
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