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Oct 2003, Boulder Canyon, 3rd Elephant Buttress


Member Since: Oct 8, 2002
Last Visit: Nov 22, 2009
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Point Rank: # 2,312
Total Points: 62
Last Year: 8
Last 30 Days: 1
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Areas are worth 15
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Where has Rick Casey been climbing?


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Rick Casey

 
Contributions

Contributions


All (41) | Routes | Areas | Photos (9) | Comments (17) | Posts (10) | Stars (5) | Ratings
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location  Great Image  Date
Danielle Lewis at top of Martha, 4 May 2008, about 6:30pm.

Danielle Lewis at top of Martha, 4 May 2008, about 6:30pm.

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Martha (5.6 WI2+ M2-3)

May 10, 2008

Ruper, Eldorado Canyon. June 2004.

Ruper, Eldorado Canyon. June 2004.

Rick Casey : Around Boulder

Oct 21, 2006

Oct 2003, Boulder Canyon, 3rd Elephant Buttress

Oct 2003, Boulder Canyon, 3rd Elephant Buttress

Rick Casey : Around Boulder

Oct 21, 2006

Ice conditions on west side of Black Lake, RMNP, Dec 4, 2004

Ice conditions on west side of Black Lake, RMNP, Dec 4, 2004

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Black Lake - West Gully (WI4)

Dec 8, 2004

Better photo of ice conditions on west side of Black Lake, RMNP, Dec 4, 2004

Better photo of ice conditions on west side of Black Lake, RMNP, Dec 4, 2004

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Black Lake Slabs (WI2-3)

Dec 8, 2004

12/4/04, Brent Roaten on 1st pitch Black Lake Slabs, RMNP

12/4/04, Brent Roaten on 1st pitch Black Lake Slabs, RMNP

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Black Lake Slabs (WI2-3)

Dec 8, 2004

Dark Star, July 3, 2004. Did not do the route due to a broken crampon, but it was in prime shape.

Dark Star, July 3, 2004. Did not do the route due to a broken crampon, but it was in prime shape.

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Right Chimney (probably not... (WI3+ M5-)

3 people

Jul 6, 2004

Nymph Lake cliffs, Jan 11, 2004, right side.

Nymph Lake cliffs, Jan 11, 2004, right side.

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Nymph Lake

Jan 11, 2004

Brandon Oldham on P1 by Rick Casey, just below 5.7+ crux.

Brandon Oldham on P1 by Rick Casey, just below 5.7+ crux.

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Purple Haze (5.9)

Sep 13, 2003

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Tigger (5.5)
By: Rick Casey When: Oct 7, 2009

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Comments: Also was one of my favorite easy Eldo routes. Today was the second time I'd done it, the third time in past couple years, so feel like I'm getting to know it. Have to say I'd rate the overhang on P2 harder than .5, more like 5.6+..._especially_ if you miss the handhold on the right that lets you to easily move your right foot up. (Can't imagine a 7 yr old having that reach!)


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Gambit (5.8)
By: Rick Casey When: Aug 10, 2009

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Comments: There is a big loose rock (about 2'x4') about half way up the first pitch, on the first ledge where there's a small tree -- be careful! I accidentally dislodged the thing by backing into it last Friday Aug 7, when it shifted about two feet, (slightly injuring my foot in the process, could've been much worse), but it stopped. I didn't think of it at the time (too jazzed, rapped off), but someone would do future climbers a big favor if they discover it's still unstable and push it all the way down... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier)
By: Rick Casey When: Jul 5, 2009

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Comments: Just read all the past comments on the highly popular area developed primarily by Ron Olsen, and noticed the negative comments about the rap bolts placed by Ron left of the main belaying area for the Upper Tier. This may be a little bit belated but:

To the negative commenters about the rap anchors: hey, get a life, will ya? Go ahead and downclimb the 4th class approach if you want; why bother about commenting about it here, spreading confusion and disinformation?

This is a SPORT cl... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier)
By: Rick Casey When: Jul 5, 2009

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Comments: There is a new bolted route just left of Group Therapy, which I led today, which I believe has been put in since fall 2008. Felt like 5.10+ at a couple of moves in the crux near top, though most of rest of route was easier. If I'm not mistakened, I do not see that this route is documented here. Is this a new route, or am I mistakened? Thanks for the info....


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Group Therapy (5.8)
By: Rick Casey When: Jul 5, 2009

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Comments: Note: lowering a second climber on 60m rope back to the start of the route will be very close to the end at the finish...actual footage of rope's stated lengths do vary!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Hoosier Pass/Lincoln Fall : Photo
By: Rick Casey When: Jan 21, 2009

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Comments: Awesome photo dude...that's a screensaver!


Location: CO : Desert Towers - Fundraiser ...
By: Rick Casey When: Jan 16, 2009

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Comments: Great slide show Crusher: well selected, well paced, well laced with dry English humor -- and for such a great purpose! I hope Layton gets the support he needs to make his laptop useful to him, because he is such a treasure for the entire US climbing community. I for one am willing to volunteer time for technical assistance if needed -- since I'm currently blissfully unemployed! (and getting in some extra climbing time for the moment to boot...)


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Tenmile Canyon aka Officer'... : Three Tiers (WI2+)
By: Rick Casey When: Dec 9, 2008

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Comments: Climbed first two pitches Dec 6, 2008 with partner Eric Rich. Lots of snow, thick ice, but running water & thin ice on the crux of 2nd pitch you had to step over; still, enough ice for solid screw. This route looks much better earlier in season when there was less snow, if it's been cold enough to set up well. There is a solid rappel station at top of second pitch now, because we added a sling and a rap ring there. If you have twin ropes, you could rap to the bottom. Otherwise...we rap... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Hogwild : Hogwild (5.7)
By: Rick Casey When: Sep 23, 2008

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Comments: Did this yesterday, and the crux was certainly getting past the first and second bolts, where the face moves felt more like 5.8 than 5.7 -- well protected, but thin moves for the grade.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Martha (5.6 WI2+ M2-3)
By: Rick Casey When: May 5, 2008

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Comments: Climbed this May 4. Excellent snow, though a little mushy in the heat of the day. The two 'icy rock' sections at the beginning of P1 and end of P4 are thinning, though could still get a good stick on the ice crux on P4. The thin ice made ice screws difficult and risky to place, though still possible in spots. Rock protection is sparse but adequate. The trail up still had snow cover all the way.
Additional warning: be sure to check your descent direction off the top of Mt Lady Washington, as it i... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Field's Chimney (WI5 M6+)
By: Rick Casey When: Feb 16, 2008

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Comments: I was at a CMC slideshow recently where Jack Roberts (author of the Colorado Ice guidebook) described this as one of his favorite easy mixed routes, when it's in. Will have to try it sometime....


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : World Cup Wall
By: Rick Casey When: Jan 29, 2007

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Comments: I could find some agreement with Randy Slavin's asssessment; the routes are short, not dramatic. But I disagree with the assertion in the description that they cannot be TR'ed. They certainly can be, if someone leads up at least one route (I think the author meant there's no way to walk down from, or up to, the top.) There are 11 mm red rope slings at the locations shown in the photo (thanks first ascendtionists!), and many can be TR'ed with a single 70m, certainly with two. We had fun... more >>


Location: Rick Casey : Around Boulder : Photo
By: Rick Casey When: Oct 21, 2006

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Comments: Taken by Henry Throop, my photographic expert friend!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge : Black Lake Slabs (WI2-3)
By: Rick Casey When: Dec 8, 2004

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Comments: Conditions on Sat, Dec 4, 2004: pretty good, not great. Ice appears well formed up in terms of area, but not yet thick. Still, quite adequate for screw placements, though not phat enough to place screws anywhere. Plenty of other ice routes forming up around Black Lake (see photos).

Breaking trail through breakable crust on snowshoes for the last mile was arduous (kudos to my partner Brent). Mills Lake frozen enough to walk over, but snowcovered streams are still flowing underneath, which broke... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice
By: Rick Casey When: Apr 18, 2004

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Comments: Current snow conditions at Long's Peak area, Sat, April 17, 2004: snow on trail from the parking lot. Packed trail up to the Mt Lady Washington junction; postholed up the new little hut below Chasm Lake.

The couloirs look in good climbing shape. Took some pics, will try to upload them somewhere. Despite the postholing up the hut, looks like most snow has slid off the steep terrain, leaving the couloirs quite climbable. Could not see what ice conditions might be like on Dark Star or D... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - top to Xanadu : Purple Haze (5.9)
By: Rick Casey When: Sep 13, 2003

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Comments: I agree with other comments: the first pitch is stout 5.7 (5.7+?) at its crux, with no footholds, requiring pure layback technique. The second pitch I found intimidating enough to back off of, this time. The marginal protection above a hazardous deck landing was not appealing. Recommended only for strong 5.9+ leaders. (Rossiter's topo seems to show the left most side of this being a 10a variation; seemed more like 10a S, IMHO.)


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