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Location: MD : Carderock
By: Richard Radcliffe When: Oct 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Carderock is a huge sandbag. This is quite evident from the video that Dan posted which shows a 5.15 climber falling multiple times on a climb rated "only" 12d. On TR, no less. (That's a great little video, BTW.)
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Across from The Bihedral ak... : Unknown 11 (5.11)
By: Richard Radcliffe When: Oct 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Slight advantage to taller people.
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Location: Marc H : Skydiving : Photo
By: Richard Radcliffe When: Sep 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is it called "technique" when your buddy pushes you out of the plane? ;)
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Location: David Bayendor : First Flatiron : Photo
By: Richard Radcliffe When: Jul 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks like he's getting ready to climb the Eiger Nordwand with Dr. Hemlock...
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : ... : Photo
By: Richard Radcliffe When: Jul 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is that a hip belay...?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : New Eldo Guidebook - Previe...
By: Richard Radcliffe When: Jul 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Steve. The guide looks so gorgeous, I don't think it'll ever leave my coffee table for fear of tattering it....
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : The Sponge : (02) Napoleon's Angst (5.10b) : Photo
By: Richard Radcliffe When: May 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, and the loose bolt is pretty scary too.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : ... : Photo
By: Richard Radcliffe When: May 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the way to do it. This stem is basically no hands with very good feet.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Grandmother's Challenge (5.10c)
By: Richard Radcliffe When: May 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bird crap is pretty gross, but what a spectacular climb all the way.
A great way to do this, mentioned by Tevis Blom above, is do P1 from the ground up through the roof and then build an anchor just over the roof where you can get as many bomber pieces as you like. This way you can avoid having to hang out amongst the worst of the bird crap (traditional first belay anchor), the leader can easily talk the second through the roof if necessary, and the leader and second can communicate much e... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Northeast Wall Routes : Etude (5.11a) : Photo
By: Richard Radcliffe When: Jan 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A great photo on a very cool looking climb.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Vestal Peak : Wham Ridge (5.4 R) : Photo
By: Richard Radcliffe When: Sep 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice campsite!
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Location: Tea : AVATARDS : Photo
By: Richard Radcliffe When: Jul 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Where's the beer?
EDIT: Let me do this properly:
JH: Want a beer?
BB: You gonna call room service?
JH: We got beer.
BB: If you hauled beer up this rock, you're insane.
JH: I may be insane, but I'm not stupid. I didn't carry it, you did it. It's in your pack.
BB: Jesus Christ! I ought to throw you off this pillar. Besides, it's warm.
JH: I'm sorry. I'd thought you'd draw the line at hauling ice.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty : South Pillar : Black Rain (5.10b)
By: Richard Radcliffe When: Jul 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Indeed, you can rappel with a 60m cord, but if you rap straight down from the anchors to where the climb begins, you'll have to down-climb from just above the first bolt. Be sure to knot the ends of your rope!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty : Main Wall : Lightspeed (5.11a)
By: Richard Radcliffe When: May 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awkward crux move gettin' over the bulge followed by nondescript and wandering face climbing. One star at best and nowhere close to 5.11-, a, or anything else.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Dreadnaught : Primal Rib (5.5 R)
By: Richard Radcliffe When: Jan 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hand traversing along the arete is fantabulous! A highly recommended scramble.
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Location: * In Progress : Indoor Walls
By: Richard Radcliffe When: Dec 14, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's beyond silly when people start adding actual gym routes.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Sheelite Canyon/Pratt's Cra... : Pratt's Crack/Dihedrals Are...
By: Richard Radcliffe When: Dec 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I once saw a cool film in which some California old-timer hard-man was climbing Pratt's Crack while his son, a pretty well-accomplished "modern" climber, was climbing Ecstacy at the same time. They were talking to each other and having a great time. I remember in particular the dad slinging a chockstone in the crack talking about how bomber it was while his son was clipping a bolt saying how he felt a little better about his bomber piece. Wish I could remember the film or who those folks were. A... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Paisano Pinnacle : Paisano Overhang (5.12c R)
By: Richard Radcliffe When: Dec 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Randy Leavitt's article about the first FA of Paisono Overhang and the invention of Leavittation.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Second Flatiron : Freeway (5.0)
By: Richard Radcliffe When: Nov 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: John, that must have been you I met about half way up -- I was soloing. What a great climb! An infinite number of variations, all excellent for the grade. The wind really picked up near the top, making a solo adventure a bit more exciting.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Fifth Flatiron : Northeast Face (5.6 R)
By: Richard Radcliffe When: Oct 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent climb, especially the last 100 feet or so as you're hand-traversing up the arete. I'd say it's easily in my top 5 Flatirons rambles.
As of 10/5/07, no wasps in the little pocket on P1 that TB mentioned. It's a great handhold and made for a cool little cam placement, although I don't know if it would hold a big fall (or even a small one). The fact that I can remember this one tiny little feature on a 900 foot climb tells you something about the nature of the rock on it!
We did it ... more >>
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : Birch Tree Crack (5.8) : Photo
By: Richard Radcliffe When: Sep 24, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: And look at the determination on the face of his belayer!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower
By: Richard Radcliffe When: Sep 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, there are many bomber gear placements on some of the Tonnere Tower climbs and perhaps bolts should not have been placed at those spots. But I wonder how many of the critics would have ever given that crag more than a passing glance prior to its development...?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Sport Land : Tag Team (5.11b)
By: Richard Radcliffe When: Sep 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: We thought we were doing P2 of Total Eclipse, but I guess we ended up on P2 of Tag team -- it seemed like a more direct line (lot of bolts up there). Going up the right side of the little roof felt like mid-10.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Sport Land : Stayin' Alive (5.10a)
By: Richard Radcliffe When: Sep 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: P2 is a nice pitch. However, I'd be very cautious on P1. The 3rd or 4th bolt (second bolt on the pinnacle part of the arete) is attached to a very large block (which you obviously have to climb on and over) and, as far as we could tell, the block is NOT ATTACHED to solid rock. Only gravity seems to be holding it in place. For now....
EDIT: I contacted Ron about this block (9/23/07). He's looking into it and will undoubtedly provide an accurate assessment of the situation.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Lower Right Side : Shady Deal (5.11c)
By: Richard Radcliffe When: Sep 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: From below, the route looks like it might be kind of a weird-fest, but once you get into it, you'll find that it's really a stemmer's delight capped off with one or two nice, balancy slab moves to the anchor. Too bad it's so short...
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