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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : William's Canyon
By: richard magill When: 1 day ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Loose in an unfun way: I've climbed loose big stuff where it flexed a little but you could still climb on it, and it was still reasonably fun, as long as the belayer was out of the bombing zone.
But the holds on the 5.12 routes I did here were just small loose chert: bear down hard on it and it breaks off and leaves you with bloody knuckles.
I only went there once because it wasn't good, but I suspected maybe I went to the worst wall and maybe there was something better elsewhere in the c... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Gallery : Yaak Crack (5.11d)
By: richard magill When: Nov 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: ridiculously fun!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Sunny and Steep : Mr Choad's Wild Ride (5.11b)
By: richard magill When: Nov 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Extraordinarily good route, one of the best sport routes I've ever done at the grade. Long, continuous, and somewhat spicy if your pumped!
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road
By: richard magill When: Nov 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: With the exception of "M&M", I assure you I did anywhere from some to copious amounts of hangdogging on all the aforementioned lines before getting the send!
And never did manage to send Head Cheese or the Example, (damnit).
Risk takes many forms. There is of course always the risk of death or injury.
But there are also other risks: risk of failure; risk of embarassment; risk of falling off just before you clip the anchor and then you are too pumped to go up again@SE... more >>
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road
By: richard magill When: Nov 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: "if you climbed one line of bolts you climbed them all"
Don't think this is true, Paul Ross. Instead of guessing that this area is lame without visiting, you should give it a try, dude! Some suggested classic Shelf lines with really great variation between routes:
1. The French are Here (12c)- old school classic with a cruxy rounded bulge.
2. Head Cheese (12d) - steep and powerful, relentless
3. Ejection Seat (12b/c) - powerful roof pulling on pinches
4. This is Your Brain (12d) - thin and ... more >>
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Coyote Rocks : Black Tea (V4)
By: richard magill When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Damn difficult.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek
By: richard magill When: Oct 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Actually, I am the original poster of the terrible description for how to get to Mill Creek. I felt the terrible description was sufficient- Tod Anderson and I went on a 4 day trip to find this place armed with nothing more than a name, a map, and a photo.
We just looked at where a road (LaSal loop road) intersected the creek and guessed that would be starting point. Turns it we were right.
So if we could find it with that, I figured others could with my limited directions.
I posted thi... more >>
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Home Alone : Character Witness (5.11a)
By: richard magill When: Sep 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: great line
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Home Alone : Limestoned (5.10d)
By: richard magill When: Sep 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: superb line - this route could be a little tough for the grade...
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Coyote Rocks : Home on the Range (5.14-)
By: richard magill When: Sep 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: No idea what the property ownership is, nor do I have any hope of even trying this thing, looked way too hard. Just walked by it and thought "there's a 5.14 crack". Great job on your send!
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Coyote Rocks : Home on the Range (5.14-)
By: richard magill When: Sep 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Speaking of crazy hard cracks, now that you have done this one: there is a steep splitter down by Curt Gowdy State Park, south side of Happy Jack highway, new piton driven in at the base - a nice traverse boulder problem nearby - do you know which line I am talking about?
Has anyone done this thing yet?
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Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : The Wilds : Sandman (5.10b/c)
By: richard magill When: Aug 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Best 5.10 sport route in the universe
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Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Purple Galaxy : Smell my Finger (5.11c)
By: richard magill When: Aug 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great line! After a technical crux around the 8th-9th bolt, prepare for a pump crux right through the next 5-6 bolts all the way to the anchors at 100 ft. This line is about as good as it gets!
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Roof Ranch
By: richard magill When: Jul 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks!
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Roof Ranch
By: richard magill When: Jul 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: On the front side of the roof ranch, just right of The Emperor of Wyoming, there is a bolted (or partly bolted) route that goes up some red rock into a big slot. Anyone know anything about this? Name? Rating? Bolts all the way or gear part way? Any info is appreciated.
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon
By: richard magill When: Jul 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A recent visit confirms that this is now UNQUESTIONABLY the premier limestone area in the state! I love Wild Iris and Sinks, but as good as those places are, Ten Sleep is bigger and better - by a long shot.
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Location: CO : John Bachar Passes Away
By: richard magill When: Jul 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bachar was THE gnarler of all gnarlers. If you have ever tried to grovel your way up The Gift (12c), just imagine what it would be like to free solo it... makes me shudder...
I have to think that Bachar knew he would eventually go out this way, and he must have been comfortable with that knowledge.
My guess is that he would not have really wanted a lot of sorrow or reflection at this event - probably would have just wanted the lads to hoist a few beers around the campfire and remember a t... more >>
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Munitions Roof : Pump Me Like a Shotgun (5.11d)
By: richard magill When: Jul 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Spectacular, couldn't be better.
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Chaos Buttress : B-1 Bomber Dude (5.11a)
By: richard magill When: Jul 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: really fun, gets almost imperceptibly harder as you go...which adds up by the time you get to the anchors!
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Campjack Rocks
By: richard magill When: May 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Disclaimer: the following is all based on my own interpretation of a BLM map, so take it for what it is worth...
The crags appear to be on public land based on my BLM map. However, you do cross private land to get there if you park at the blue post on North Crow road.
If instead you park on the State lands (Campjack Camp Area off of Hwy 210), you can get there totally on public land.
I tried to get permission from the owner but after about a dozen unreturned phone calls I gave up. So y... more >>
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Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Hardware Wall : Whipperly Wamberly Walk (5.11b)
By: richard magill When: May 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: super fun
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Location: WY : Wind River Range
By: richard magill When: Apr 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did a trip into Cirque of the Towers for 4th of July a couple years back and the mosquitos were like something from a monster movie - make sure you have long pants, long sleeves, and a mosquito net for your head.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Crackhouse : The Crack Whore (5.12b) : Photo
By: richard magill When: Apr 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good point Jason! Its good to have experienced people review these Mountain Project photos for technical accuracy... we don't want anyone getting confused on the proper usage of equipment...
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Photo
By: richard magill When: Apr 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What if that ball careened off some cliff and hit a little hiking girl scout on the head? Probably death or paralysis... trashing the environment and killing girl scouts... you are a monster!
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : Bouldering : Little Devil (V11 X)
By: richard magill When: Mar 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I should note however that the movie shots were not actually taken in Castlewood - for whatever reason the big wall stuff was mostly filmed in the Alps.
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