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Eichorns Pinnacle


Member Since: Aug 17, 2009
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 108
Total Points: 3,930
Last Year: 718
Last 30 Days: 154
153 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Richard Shore been climbing?










Contributions


All 2776 | Routes 133 | Areas 26 | Photos 364 | Page Improvements | Comments 391 | Posts 87 | Stars 1605 | Ratings 170
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Hall of Horrors Area : Hall of Horrors : ... : Dog Day Afternoon (5.10b)
By: Richard Shore When: Nov 19, 2012

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Comments: A 4' sling is needed for the 3" piece to reduce rope drag on the final slabby section. Only bringing one standard shoulder-length sling for that piece, I had to fight my way to the top. Even with the 3" piece, you don't want to blow the move onto the headwall, lest you enjoy somersaulting backwards down low-angle slab.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Isles in the Sky : Wedlock (5.11a)
By: Richard Shore When: Nov 19, 2012

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Comments: Quality, thoughtful moves from the moment you step off the deck until you hit the chockstone. Much more challenging than initial appearances might suggest. The finger locks are never very good, so you really have to tweak and milk the jams. Fortunately, the lip of the crack is a bit flared, allowing for solid left-toe jams. Don't get suckered into liebacking out left - my partner did and he was never able to get back into straight-in jamming, which resulted in unnecessary flailing.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : West Tiers : Blood and Cuts (5.9)
By: Richard Shore When: Nov 19, 2012

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Comments: A worthy tick if in the area. A single set of cams from fingers to #3 camalot is plenty if you're comfortable on 5.9 hands. Low crux pulling over the initial bulge. Sling a boulder up top for an anchor. Walk-off to climbers right.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Renaissance Crag (AKA Rattl... : Sword In The Stone (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: Nov 16, 2012

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Comments: I was fortunate to grab a couple early TR ascents of this route (before all the lead bolts were installed). It is a beautiful, sweeping patina face, with excellent stone. Probably the longest, most sustained route of its grade in SB. 5.9++. Quality-wise, I can only compare it to a more challenging version of Face Lift 5.7 at San Ysidro. Not as steep as Great Race 5.10a and I think it's a touch easier as well. Go do it!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Space Mountain (5.10b)
By: Richard Shore When: Nov 8, 2012

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Comments: Thought this rig was bitchin'! You have to respect this climb early as you crawl out the ledge on your hands and knees while peering out at the exposure, and then basically let your body swing off into space while hanging on a big jug, feeling all Stallone-like! Some flexies here and there, but my 200lb frame didn't rip anything off.

Important to note - the guidebooks say 2 ropes are needed to rappel. This is not true. One 60M will just make it to a ledge about 10' up and left of the start. Eas... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Where Have all the Cowboys ... (5.10d)
By: Richard Shore When: Nov 8, 2012

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Comments: Did this one today via the "Triple Crown" as suggested by Susan above. Makes for a fun multi-pitch kind of outing. P1-2 of WHATCG .10d, rap, P2 of Santa Cruz .9+, P3 of The Exhibitionist .10a to summit, rap, Space Mountain .10b, rap. Back at your packs after 5 pitches and only touching the ground once. The grand tour of the west/north faces of Saddle Rock! Actually, that was 4 routes, so maybe the "Quadruple Crown".

The moves off the P1 ledge are indeed height dependent as noted above. My short... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : The Valley of Kings : ... : The Sanga's On Fire (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: Some small nuts protect the short crux after leaving the flake. The finger crack is more like a flaring shallow groove at times, making reliable cam placements difficult. A bit gritty still from lack of traffic, but a fun climb nonetheless. We also soloed the approach gully to the right, not bad, maybe 5.6-5.7.

New green 6mil cord on the nut-nest rap anchor as of 11/2012. 2 ropes get you back to your packs.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : The Valley of Kings : ... : Firewater Chimney (5.10b)
By: Richard Shore When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: At 6'3", I was able to straight leg chimney nearly the entire climb, stemming wide for only two or three moves. This is probably the easiest 5.10b in the park, if you know how to chimney and have the leg strength to endure the hour-long approach. As much as I hate to downgrade a route, I'd have to uprate 100 others if this is really.10b.

I'll give it the ambiguous "5.9+"


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : The Valley of Kings : ... : The Last Stand (5.12a)
By: Richard Shore When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: Great stuff! Opted to TR this one after rapping Firewater Chimney. Nice, steep edging on incut patina in a techy-corner yields to seemingly blank friction slab finish. Just when the angle starts to ease back, the holds completely disappear!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Astro Domes : North Astro Dome : ... : Figures on a Landscape (aka... (5.10b R)
By: Richard Shore When: Nov 4, 2012

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Comments: Worthy of all the hype. There is only 1 bolt on the second pitch, not two as listed here and in the guides. The biggest runout on route is on the 5.9+ second pitch. 1 bolt for the first 50+ feet of steep edging.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hill Street Blues : Blue Bayou (5.4)
By: Richard Shore When: Nov 4, 2012

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Comments: Tahquitz-style exfoliation corner gone JTree. One of the best 5.4's I've done in the park. Short but sweet.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hill Street Blues : Out of the Blue (5.11a)
By: Richard Shore When: Nov 4, 2012

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Comments: Stiff shoes are a must on this beautiful dime-edging route. Bulletproof polished slab!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hill Street Blues : Blues Brothers (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: Nov 4, 2012

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Comments: Placed 4 offset brassies, both of my 00's, and pretty much every other tiny cam I brought along. Technical slab/seam climbing with tiny but sufficient gear. More mentally challenging than physically difficult. Excellent rock!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hill Street Blues : Rhythm & Blues (5.10b)
By: Richard Shore When: Nov 4, 2012

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Comments: Short but fierce! After getting a solid #1TCU down low and a bomber #0 a few feet higher, you have to punch it through the upper half. I was unable to find a stance to place gear fom, and subsequently was looking at a bad fall. The difficult section is prob only 20' until easier terrain.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : San Ysidro (Bouldering) : Myth of Silenus (V3)
By: Richard Shore When: Oct 17, 2012

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Comments: I've got some beef with these entries, Alexander.

1) There is a section on this site listed as Santa Barbara Bouldering, a much more fitting place for these. Don't clutter up the San Ysidro climbing page with these.

2) Do you have a copy of the old Tucker/Steele guide? If so, you'd know that they mention the bouldering along the ridge and up the trail (though they don't list specifics), so i wouldnt claim FA's on most of the obvious ones.

3) This entry is basically worthless. No description, ... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney / Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Oz
By: Richard Shore When: Oct 1, 2012

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Comments: A great shady spot for hot days, and good rock quality. No approach time, so don't forget the cooler and beer. Check out Dorothy's Crack 5.9 and The Wizard 5.11b for a welcome change from the usual 'Bama Hills clip-ups.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Regular Northwest Face of H... (5.12a/b)
By: Richard Shore When: Sep 25, 2012

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Comments: Spring was completely dry as of last weekend, 9/23.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney / Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : Whitney Portal Buttress : Ghostrider (5.10c)
By: Richard Shore When: Sep 17, 2012

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Comments: Quality line. 2x #3 camalot, 1x #4 is perfect for the undercling. The knob pitches up top become monotonous and less fun after a while.. especially when your toes are already hurting from the endless knobs AND you endure a mostly hanging belay atop P6.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney / Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : Whitney Portal Buttress : Tanager (aka "5.11 Crack") (5.10b)
By: Richard Shore When: Sep 17, 2012

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Comments: Repeated this route last weekend; this time with the slab extension to link into Ghostrider. I must disagree with Hensel's statement that the slab is only 10a - this felt harder than the crux of the crack below. It was thin, sequential, and in the heat of the sun felt closer to 11a than 10a. Tat slings on the lower-off bolts are currently gone, bring your own if you want to finish at the end of the crack.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney / Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : Hairpin Wall : One Line, No Waiting (5.9 R)
By: Richard Shore When: Sep 17, 2012

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Comments: I usually agree with Darshan's assessments of routes, but he was a bit off here. Fisrt, as stated on the main Hairpin Wall page, this route is NOT a "classic thin crack", but rather a face climb. There is maybe 10' of crack climbing on the first pitch in 180'. The route has 6 bolts, not the four shown on the topo. In addition to the #3 camalot (w/ long sling) placement in a hole before the second bolt, there is only really one other piece of gear needed, a .75 or 1 camalot in the short le... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney / Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : Hairpin Wall
By: Richard Shore When: Sep 17, 2012

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Comments: The trail to this wall is nonexistant. Currently not worth the bushwhack to get there for the one route. There are at least two other new routes on this wall, information is unavailable though.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney / Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : Premier Buttress : Lori's Little Layback (5.10)
By: Richard Shore When: Sep 17, 2012

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Comments: I hadn't heard anything about this route before getting on it, nor had I heard of anyone who's actually done it. I was awestruck when I first saw it. IMO, this is one of the best crack pitches in the portal. Lots of strenuous laybacking and jamming. A neglected classic.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Potter's Point
By: Richard Shore When: Sep 11, 2012

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Comments: The Caveman Boulder's sport climbs also belong on this page, but alas, some poor misguided soul decided to hide them within the dark depths of the Potter's Point Bouldering page...

Admins (Andy/Mike)?? Maybe we can fix this?


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Fairbanks and Vicinity : Fairbanks Environs: Angel C... : Main Rock : When Free Climbers Wore Ham... (5.8)
By: Richard Shore When: Sep 10, 2012

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Comments: 4 stars? Um, no.


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Fairbanks and Vicinity : Fairbanks Environs: Granite... : Near Tors: Lizard's Eye : The Fin (5.11)
By: Richard Shore When: Sep 6, 2012

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Comments: This route could be a bitchin' little sport climb with the addition of about 3 lead bolts..


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