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Eichorns Pinnacle


Member Since: Aug 17, 2009
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Richard Shore


Point Rank: # 116
Total Points: 3,484
Last Year: 1,066
Last 30 Days: 156
114 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Richard Shore been climbing?










Contributions


All (2640) | Routes (127) | Areas (23) | Photos (300) | Comments (369) | Posts (91) | Stars (1564) | Ratings (166)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Potter's Point
By: Richard Shore When: Sep 11, 2012

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Comments: The Caveman Boulder's sport climbs also belong on this page, but alas, some poor misguided soul decided to hide them within the dark depths of the Potter's Point Bouldering page...

Admins (Andy/Mike)?? Maybe we can fix this?


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Fairbanks and Vicinity : Fairbanks Environs: Angel C... : Main Rock : When Free Climbers Wore Ham... (5.8)
By: Richard Shore When: Sep 10, 2012

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Comments: 4 stars? Um, no.


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Fairbanks and Vicinity : Fairbanks Environs: Granite... : Near Tors: Lizard's Eye : The Fin (5.11)
By: Richard Shore When: Sep 6, 2012

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Comments: This route could be a bitchin' little sport climb with the addition of about 3 lead bolts..


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Fairbanks and Vicinity : Fairbanks Environs: Angel C... : Teenage Area : Teenage Wasteland (5.10a/b)
By: Richard Shore When: Sep 5, 2012

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Comments: No mantle required at the start, it was quite tame. Simply rock up onto a high right foot. Others traverse in from the right to start. I broke a baseball-sized piece of rock off the horizontal dike (good foot) at the crux, but there are enough options so it shouldn't affect the grade. A one-move wonder.


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Fairbanks and Vicinity : Fairbanks Environs: Angel C... : First Rock : Bear Tooth (5.8 R)
By: Richard Shore When: Sep 5, 2012

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Comments: This route could benefit greatly from a pair of bolts with rap rings/mussy hooks atop the large flake at the end of the corner. I suspect most people end up TR'ing this line due to the crap on the upper half.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes : ... : Photo
By: Richard Shore When: Aug 28, 2012

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Comments: Yeah Chris, that was me. 6th time on Whodunit, right? Party of 3? Nice to meet you.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Bear Creek Spire : North Arete (5.8)
By: Richard Shore When: Aug 27, 2012

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Comments: During a thunderstorm on Saturday August 18 (I believe), a massive rockfall occured in the gully just to the right of the North ArÍte. Many 1,000's of tons of rock were spit out, including boulders up to 15' in diameter. Some of these nearly jumped over the moraine! Fresh rock flour was everywhere, and during our climb on the 19th, pebble-to-bowling ball size chunks were continuously raining down the gully. Climbers should take caution while approaching/hanging out at the base of the North ArÍte... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes : Super Pooper (5.10a/b)
By: Richard Shore When: Aug 27, 2012

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Comments: Currently sporting two fixed nuts through the crux section. Almost feels like a clip-up.

Sequential and burly crux moves. Took some thinking to piece it together, but fortunately there is a great no-hands rest right before the business. As recommended by others above, do The Price of Fear to cap off an already **** climb!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Green Dome : East Face : Metamorphosis (5.10c PG13)
By: Richard Shore When: Aug 5, 2012

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Comments: Michelle is partially correct - there is an angry swarm of HORNETS currently living in that hole. Damn, it's a good hold too..


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Green Dome : East Face : Dancing Fingers (5.10d)
By: Richard Shore When: Aug 5, 2012

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Comments: I'm surprised this route doesn't get more love here on MP. It gets full stars in both the old Tucker/Steele and the newer Edwards guide, and I've gotta agree. Steep, sustained, numerous and varied cruxes, solid rock - the best route in SB at the 5.10d grade.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) : The Wasp/The Sting (5.10+ R) : Photo
By: Richard Shore When: Jul 25, 2012

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Comments: Hey Alexander, you seem to have forgotten Rule #1.

If you don't want to see "needless beta," maybe you shouldn't visit a site devoted to it.

In regards to spewing, how about your freesolo spray on the routes at Foothill Crag?


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Igor Unchained (5.9+)
By: Richard Shore When: Jul 16, 2012

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Comments: With a 70M rope and about 20' of simulclimbing, the first two pitches can be run together into a mega-classic enduro 250' pitch to the big ledge. Triples in hand-size gear is recommended for this.


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : Kernville Rock (a.k.a. Kern... : The Lieback (5.5)
By: Richard Shore When: Jul 16, 2012

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Comments: The best "5.5" pitch on the planet! Neat little crux where you transition from liebacking the crack to liebacking some small crimps on the right wall. The "Enduro Corner" of Kernville..


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : Kernville Rock (a.k.a. Kern... : Initiation Crack (5.11a)
By: Richard Shore When: Jul 16, 2012

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Comments: Extremely finger-size dependent. For my larger-than-average digits, I couldn't even get a single tips jam in the first 15'. 5.7 A0 for me. A very nice crack, even if you can't do the start. Also, be sure to place your gear deep in the initial crack as it is perfectly smooth and polished. I pulled a perfect #1 mastercam placement and took a 10' groundfall at the start. Fortunately, I walked away without injury.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Matthes Crest : Matthes Crest Traverse - So... (5.7)
By: Richard Shore When: Jul 10, 2012

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Comments: It would be a shame to rappel at the North Summit, as the best climbing/exposure is on the second half! The very last (northernmost) tower on the ridge proved to be a bit of a challenge - a deceptive 4th class foot traverse along a ledge on the west side dead-ends just 20' shy of the route's finish. I found a few bail anchors here. One can ascend a steep (5.8+?) corner to gain the top of the tower, and then walkoff, or maybe retrace your steps and find an easier way. I'd agree that most of the c... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : North Peak : North Face North Couloir (r... (AI3 Steep Snow)
By: Richard Shore When: Jul 10, 2012

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Comments: Climb this and then do the North Ridge on Mt Conness for an awesome day in the backcountry. The descent from North Peak drops you right at the start of the North Ridge on Conness.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Mt. Conness : North Ridge (Easy 5th)
By: Richard Shore When: Jul 10, 2012

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Comments: I highly recommend climbing something on North Peak first as that descent drops you right at the start of the North Ridge on Conness. I did the right-most ice couloir on North Peak, which meant having to carry my crampons, axes, and mtn boots in a pack while climbing the North Ridge. Not too bad. The downclimb after the second tower was the crux of the whole route; steep but with good secure jambs. 7.5 hours C2C for the linkup. 2 hours approach to the base of N Peak, 2 hour descent fro... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Mammoth Lakes Bouldering : Geophysics Wall
By: Richard Shore When: Jul 9, 2012

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Comments: A fun little pit stop if youre looking to get some easy mileage. 2 minutes from the highway, and about 20 seconds from your car. I was able to do nearly every problem on this wall in about 30 minutes (without knowing many of the "eliminates"). No real standout problems here, but the rock is of good quality.


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : Necromancer Needle : Silver Threads (5.10b PG13)
By: Richard Shore When: Jul 2, 2012

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Comments: The upper pitches on this route look absolutely amazing. Too bad I didn't get to try them. I guess I'm not as much of an "adventure" climber as I thought. The first pitch is like a vertical garden - a simple nut tool is not sufficient for the amount of cleaning this pitch needs. There is no visible crack anywhere in the stemming corner, just THICK bushes and moss. Maybe I'll come back to this route with a pair of leather gloves and a trowel added to my rack...


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Phosphorescent Flow (5.10a R)
By: Richard Shore When: Jul 2, 2012

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Comments: Sustained face climbing, and surely a hair-raising lead! Can be toproped easily with a 70m cord. From the P1 anchor of Witch Doctor, make a short rap to the belay/rap bolts for Phosphorescent Flow. The 70m rope will just barely reach the starting ledge, so tie some stopper knots in the ends!


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Warlock : South Face (5.9 PG13)
By: Richard Shore When: Jul 2, 2012

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Comments: A wonderful adventure climb with lots of WIDE climbing. A long line with great position on the Warlock.

Pitch by Pitch breakdown:

P1) Near the top of the vegetated 4th class gully, and just before a large triangular chockstone, head up either a 3-4" jagged flake on the left or a crack system 10 feet to it's right. At a large bush, step right and head up an easy blocky/chimney to a belay at a small oak tree (NOT the massive Pine tree, just down and right from it).

P2) A wild foot, then hand tr... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : Solstice Celebration Wall : Barn Dance (5.11a R)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 25, 2012

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Comments: While the 5.11a crux of the route is well-protected, many other sections are not, including some heady 5.10- face climbing. The rock quality is not the best on this route, with some seriously grainy sections. I took a hefty whipper pulling over the second roof when a brick-sized foothold departed from the rock. The original 1/4" bolts on this route have been replaced with 3/8" stainless fatties.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : Solstice Celebration Wall : Solstice Celebration (5.10b)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 25, 2012

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Comments: Thought it was fitting to climb the namesake route on this formation on it's namesake day - 6/21/12.

Both pitches on this route can be easily combined into a rope stretcher 60M pitch. 2 bolts, emphasis on gear from 0.75 camalot to fingers. Fun, if not awkward, finger jams and liebacking at the crux.

2 bolt rap anchor (2 ropes, ~190') to climbers right of belay ledge. Could use a few quicklinks and a single 1' length of chain to replace the tat currently in place.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Dana Plateau : Third Pillar, Regular Route (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 11, 2012

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Comments: Pitons on the P4 crux are indeed gone. Decent offset brassies can be placed in their absence. Spectacular finish on a spectacular climb. Probably my favorite "short" route I've done in the Sierra.

Take care on the descent to the start of the climb. It's 4th+ class in places, and loose. A girl broke her tibia/fibula there two days before our ascent when she dislodged a boulder onto herself.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Sheelite Canyon / Pratt's C... : ... : Pratt's Crack (5.9)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 11, 2012

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Comments: +1 Jonathans recommendation above. I brought two #3 camalots for the beginning (placed deep), slung 3 or 4 chockstones, and a few yellow aliens for up high. Unless you have some BigBros, plan on running it out 30' or so up to the chains. The climbing is not at grade through this section, as the right wall has many juggy face features.


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