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Eichorns Pinnacle


Member Since: Aug 17, 2009
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 107
Total Points: 4,076
Last Year: 864
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 2870 | Routes 134 | Areas 26 | Photos 389 | Page Improvements | Comments 401 | Posts 87 | Stars 1655 | Ratings 178
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Geology Tour Road : Virgin Islands Area : Perpetual Motion Wall : Rain Dance (5.11a)
By: Richard Shore When: Dec 2, 2012

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Comments: According to Randy's guide, this route (Rain Dance) is only 5.8 and 0/5 stars. Alan must have got this description mixed up with Knack.

Admin request - can we clean up this confusing mess?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Geology Tour Road : Virgin Islands Area : Perpetual Motion Wall : Knack (5.10b)
By: Richard Shore When: Dec 2, 2012

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Comments: This route is pretty stout considering its meager 30' length. 2 or 3 pieces in the finger sizes is all you should need for the lead. 1-2.5" for the anchor, scramble down to climbers right.

5.10c in Randy's guide and 2/5 stars. Seems that it is 5.10+/11a (NOT .10b) based on my experience and comments under the misgraded Rain Dance page here. Worthwhile if you're already here for Perpetual Motion, but certainly not a destination climb.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Astro Domes : North Astro Dome : ... : Photo
By: Richard Shore When: Nov 26, 2012

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Comments: Hey, that's me at the belay! Thanks for the nice pic, Johnny!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Flying Fortress : No Self Control (5.12c R)
By: Richard Shore When: Nov 26, 2012

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Comments: Rusty 1/4" buttonheads with Leeper hangers and ancient rap slings at the belay.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : The Dunce Cap
By: Richard Shore When: Nov 26, 2012

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Comments: Has anyone else noticed the hueco filled with large bone shards on the summit? At first glance, I figured it was a raptor roost, but there is no poop anywhere. On further inspection, the bone pieces are quite large, so unlikely that a bird carried it up there. Methinks a bighorn sheep managed to summit the formation, and forgot his rope for the mandatory rappel, perishing on the summit. Wild.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : The Dunce Cap : The Dunce Cap (5.10c R)
By: Richard Shore When: Nov 26, 2012

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Comments: The bolt appears to be a 3/8" rawl type (hex head), but is unfortunately matched with a rusty Leeper hanger. I'm not sure that stick-clipping the bolt erases the R factor, either. There are some dicey 5.10 friction moves at the end of the traverse gaining the thin crack - blow it here and you're looking at a big penji back into the starting boulder. Have your belayer pay out some extra slack with hopes that if you peel, you might swing beneath the block on clean face instead of crashing directly... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Flying Fortress : No Self Respect (5.10d)
By: Richard Shore When: Nov 26, 2012

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Comments: Way strenno! Left-side in, right knee chimney technique worked well to inch through the crux.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Flying Fortress : No Self Confidence (5.10c)
By: Richard Shore When: Nov 26, 2012

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Comments: Enduro hands! Maybe not the best choice for a morning "warm-up" climb.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Suicide Horn Rock : Bighorn Dihedral (5.10b)
By: Richard Shore When: Nov 26, 2012

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Comments: Contrary to the guide, we found a quick and (relatively) easy descent to climbers left, passing beneath the Compact Physical .11c route. Well worth the "long" approach.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Lime Dome : Lemon Slicer (5.11a)
By: Richard Shore When: Nov 26, 2012

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Comments: A wonderful climb in a remote section of the park. Bouldery finger locks off the deck leads to sustained thin-hands jamming, all overhanging! If this thing got climbed more than once a decade it might clean up nicely. As is, a bit sharp and mildly grainy. Tape highly recommended unless you're a universal donor. Nothing bigger than #1 camalot for the lead, a 2 or 3" piece is helpful for the anchor.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : The Fortress : Natural Selection (5.10d)
By: Richard Shore When: Nov 26, 2012

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Comments: Classy line, well-protected at the crux with tiny nuts/cams. Two raps with one 60M cord will get you down. No need to haul a second rope out there. New sling added to the horn rap station 11/2012. 4 out of 5 stars in Randy's book = Josh classic.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Isles Corridor : Isles Corridor - Left Side : Crack 4 (5.10c R)
By: Richard Shore When: Nov 19, 2012

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Comments: I can't believe some of the above posters called this is a bomb. I do agree with Randy that this is as good as any of the other quality cracks in the corridor though. A TR only for me - I don't trust that tiny fixed head protecting the crux. The upper finger crack/lieback is a treat! Would be a bold lead indeed..

As for the crashpad comment - not exactly a good landing. Big boulders, and the wall slabs out towards the base. I would get a good laugh seeing pads and a team of spotters up there fo... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Isles in the Sky : Wedlock (5.11a)
By: Richard Shore When: Nov 19, 2012

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Comments: Quality, thoughtful moves from the moment you step off the deck until you hit the chockstone. Much more challenging than initial appearances might suggest. The finger locks are never very good, so you really have to tweak and milk the jams. Fortunately, the lip of the crack is a bit flared, allowing for solid left-toe jams. Don't get suckered into liebacking out left - my partner did and he was never able to get back into straight-in jamming, which resulted in unnecessary flailing.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : West Tiers : Blood and Cuts (5.9)
By: Richard Shore When: Nov 19, 2012

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Comments: A worthy tick if in the area. A single set of cams from fingers to #3 camalot is plenty if you're comfortable on 5.9 hands. Low crux pulling over the initial bulge. Sling a boulder up top for an anchor. Walk-off to climbers right.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Renaissance Crag : Sword In The Stone (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: Nov 16, 2012

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Comments: I was fortunate to grab a couple early TR ascents of this route (before all the lead bolts were installed). It is a beautiful, sweeping patina face, with excellent stone. Probably the longest, most sustained route of its grade in SB. 5.9++. Quality-wise, I can only compare it to a more challenging version of Face Lift 5.7 at San Ysidro. Not as steep as Great Race 5.10a and I think it's a touch easier as well. Go do it!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Space Mountain (5.10b)
By: Richard Shore When: Nov 8, 2012

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Comments: Thought this rig was bitchin'! You have to respect this climb early as you crawl out the ledge on your hands and knees while peering out at the exposure, and then basically let your body swing off into space while hanging on a big jug, feeling all Stallone-like! Some flexies here and there, but my 200lb frame didn't rip anything off.

Important to note - the guidebooks say 2 ropes are needed to rappel. This is not true. One 60M will just make it to a ledge about 10' up and left of the start. Eas... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Where Have all the Cowboys ... (5.10d)
By: Richard Shore When: Nov 8, 2012

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Comments: Did this one today via the "Triple Crown" as suggested by Susan above. Makes for a fun multi-pitch kind of outing. P1-2 of WHATCG .10d, rap, P2 of Santa Cruz .9+, P3 of The Exhibitionist .10a to summit, rap, Space Mountain .10b, rap. Back at your packs after 5 pitches and only touching the ground once. The grand tour of the west/north faces of Saddle Rock! Actually, that was 4 routes, so maybe the "Quadruple Crown".

The moves off the P1 ledge are indeed height dependent as noted above. My short... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : The Valley of Kings : ... : The Sanga's On Fire (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: Some small nuts protect the short crux after leaving the flake. The finger crack is more like a flaring shallow groove at times, making reliable cam placements difficult. A bit gritty still from lack of traffic, but a fun climb nonetheless. We also soloed the approach gully to the right, not bad, maybe 5.6-5.7.

New green 6mil cord on the nut-nest rap anchor as of 11/2012. 2 ropes get you back to your packs.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : The Valley of Kings : ... : Firewater Chimney (5.10b)
By: Richard Shore When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: At 6'3", I was able to straight leg chimney nearly the entire climb, stemming wide for only two or three moves. This is probably the easiest 5.10b in the park, if you know how to chimney and have the leg strength to endure the hour-long approach. As much as I hate to downgrade a route, I'd have to uprate 100 others if this is really.10b.

I'll give it the ambiguous "5.9+"


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : The Valley of Kings : ... : The Last Stand (5.12a)
By: Richard Shore When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: Great stuff! Opted to TR this one after rapping Firewater Chimney. Nice, steep edging on incut patina in a techy-corner yields to seemingly blank friction slab finish. Just when the angle starts to ease back, the holds completely disappear!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Astro Domes : North Astro Dome : ... : Figures on a Landscape (aka... (5.10b R)
By: Richard Shore When: Nov 4, 2012

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Comments: Worthy of all the hype. There is only 1 bolt on the second pitch, not two as listed here and in the guides. The biggest runout on route is on the 5.9+ second pitch. 1 bolt for the first 50+ feet of steep edging.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hill Street Blues : Blue Bayou (5.4)
By: Richard Shore When: Nov 4, 2012

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Comments: Tahquitz-style exfoliation corner gone JTree. One of the best 5.4's I've done in the park. Short but sweet.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hill Street Blues : Out of the Blue (5.11a)
By: Richard Shore When: Nov 4, 2012

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Comments: Stiff shoes are a must on this beautiful dime-edging route. Bulletproof polished slab!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hill Street Blues : Blues Brothers (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: Nov 4, 2012

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Comments: Placed 4 offset brassies, both of my 00's, and pretty much every other tiny cam I brought along. Technical slab/seam climbing with tiny but sufficient gear. More mentally challenging than physically difficult. Excellent rock!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hill Street Blues : Rhythm & Blues (5.10b)
By: Richard Shore When: Nov 4, 2012

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Comments: Short but fierce! After getting a solid #1TCU down low and a bomber #0 a few feet higher, you have to punch it through the upper half. I was unable to find a stance to place gear fom, and subsequently was looking at a bad fall. The difficult section is prob only 20' until easier terrain.


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