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Eichorns Pinnacle


Member Since: Aug 17, 2009
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Richard Shore
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Total Points: 4,290
Last Year: 687
Last 30 Days: 1
213 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 2948 | Routes 135 | Areas 27 | Photos 425 | Page Improvements | Comments 410 | Posts 76 | Stars 1695 | Ratings 180
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AK : Fairbanks and Vicinity : Granite Tors : Asgard Tor : Little Maniac/Dead End Crac... (5.10 R)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 10, 2013

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Comments: This is the BEST pitch in the Fairbanks area, period. Do it. I could run laps on this all day long. Tape is nice as the rock is quite sharp.

I disagree with the comment above about adding bolts to make it a safer lead - it has been led as is, and if one really wanted to lead the crack portion but was concerned with the upper runout, you could pre-hang a length of cord or rope from the bolted anchor to clip on lead, thus eliminating the need for a bolt.


Location: AK : Fairbanks and Vicinity : Granite Tors : Second Coming Tor
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 10, 2013

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Comments: The Fairbanks Area Climbing Guide must have mixed up the grades of these two routes - the Right crack (5.8 in guide) is definitely a grade harder than the Left route (5.9 in guide), and I have submitted the routes to reflect this. YMMV.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Party World : Urban Blight (5.8)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 5, 2013

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Comments: Maybe the best route of it's grade on the highway, with good rock. Unlike many routes around here, this one actually follows a singular line, not just another highly-featured face. Steep! Very clean and no dirt as of 6/2013.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Party World : TKFP (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 5, 2013

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Comments: Pretty straightforward jug-thuggery. Very steep, even for 5.10a. Some questionable loose blocks which you are required to pull on detract from this otherwise excellent line. The crux might be the top-out into dirt and loose debris, though.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Northwest Passage
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 4, 2013

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Comments: Some long-ish, steep routes to be had here, along with a collection of some of the worst fixed gear (bolts) on the Highway. I'd avoid leading in this area until some replacement takes place.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Big Sur : Slate's Spire : Regular Route (5.5 R)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: If you have to ask about downclimbing safely, I'd guess you probably aren't ready to be soloing it. Comments above suggest it's a big chosspile. Why not bring a harness and rappel line? Ropes do dry out, it's not like you're gonna ruin it..


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Sunshine Ridge : Road Soda (5.10c)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: 7 bolts + one giant eye bolt, not 11.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Sunshine Ridge : Draino (5.8)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: Lots of loose blocks along the rampy middle section.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Sunshine Ridge : Road Warrior (5.9)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: Decent rock (after the first 8 feet), sustained & technical movement up an aesthetic arete, and crappy rusted bolts in need of replacement. Gets my vote for the best single pitch route in the Sunshine Ridge area.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Liberty Cap : Passport to the Sky (5.11 A1) : Photo
By: Richard Shore When: May 31, 2013

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Comments: I like the helmet clipped to the belay... I'd have at least put it on to protect that bald spot from geting sunburnt.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Goats Head Soup : No Whiners (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: May 31, 2013

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Comments: Nice mix of mostly positive and large holds - slopers, jugs, pinches, crimps, it's got em all.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Goats Head Soup : No Finer (5.10b/c)
By: Richard Shore When: May 31, 2013

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Comments: Probably the best line on this side of the formation, at least movement-wise. Good overhanging stems up a cool corner. Eases off significantly after the first 20 feet.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Goats Head Soup : Shiner (5.10b/c)
By: Richard Shore When: May 31, 2013

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Comments: Fun climb, but some seriously large and hollow sounding blocks up high (one marked with with a few chalk X's) detract from the quality. Tread lightly, and put your belayer off to the side.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Boy Scout Rocks : Main Area
By: Richard Shore When: May 30, 2013

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Comments: Yep, looks about 3-4" in diameter. I don't think a regular caribiner will fit on it. Throw a sling through that bad boy.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Pivot Point : Lower Pivot Point : ... : Photo
By: Richard Shore When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: This photo is tilted a bit. The route is not quite this steep.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Pivot Point : Lower Pivot Point : Pivot Point (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: Stemming is key to taking the bite out of the lower half of the route. Slick and polished, but excellent rock.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Sunshine Ridge : Sunshine Ridge (5.7)
By: Richard Shore When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: I'd say the climb is closer to 450 feet in length - I stretched the first and last pitches to 45-50M each. Also, this thing is in a bit of disrepair - there are a handful of chopped bolts/stolen hangers, and the bolted belay atop P2 has been chopped (no biggie, gear belay from a solid hand-size crack or go up another 15' and tie off a boulder). The walk-off is to climber's left, and drops you very close to your car. Do not be tempted to descend climber's right - this gully is very loose, steep ... more >>


Location: AK : Fairbanks and Vicinity : Grapefruit Rocks : West Grapefruit Rocks : First Crag : Fern Hueco (5.9)
By: Richard Shore When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: Best line on the crag.


Location: AK : Fairbanks and Vicinity : Grapefruit Rocks : West Grapefruit Rocks : First Crag : Peril (5.11a)
By: Richard Shore When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: A very contrived route where one is forced to climb right or left of the bolt line by 6 feet or more at times. The crux itself is really just a one-move wonder, and very reachy (or dynamic for the height deficient folks).


Location: AK : Fairbanks and Vicinity : Grapefruit Rocks : West Grapefruit Rocks : First Crag : She Broke It (5.10d)
By: Richard Shore When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: The upper half of this route is really fun, but unfortunately suffers from a very forced start on crappy holds. One could climb right or left or the line by just a few feet. And as far as the comment above about "placing to high bolt to make it a more serious lead"... what a bunch of crap. Stick clip the damn bolt, this is sport climbing. A top-down, rap bolted route with a purposely intended runout? Get real, that isn't "serious", that's called contrived boldness. Rant over.

A better line woul... more >>


Location: AK : Fairbanks and Vicinity : Grapefruit Rocks : East Grapefruit Rocks : Crackland : Iraqy Cracky (5.9)
By: Richard Shore When: May 22, 2013

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Comments: The rock quality and climbing deteriorate quickly after the first 10 feet, and most of the protection would be worthless anyway. This one is probably best left as a toprope - or - just boulder the fun start and jump off/downclimb after the goods.


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Denali National Park : Little Switzerland : Middle Troll : South Face (5.8 Mod. Snow)
By: Richard Shore When: May 21, 2013

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Comments: The first three pitches are very chossy. Expect mud, lichen, moss, and gravel climbing; marginal gear; if you try it too early in the season, snow and ice as well. I found a small axe to be handy for clearing snow and chopping steps. Do yourself a favor and climb the snow gully all the way up to the alternate start, cutting out the first 2.5 pitches.


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Denali National Park : Little Switzerland : The Throne : West Face Cracks (5.10a Easy Snow)
By: Richard Shore When: May 20, 2013

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Comments: The rightmost of three cracks, not described here, is an excellent 5.10b/c corner with a fun roof just before the anchor (3/8" bolt and equalized nut).


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (s) Monkey Face : Pioneer Route (5.7 C0)
By: Richard Shore When: Apr 22, 2013

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Comments: Mostly good 3/8" bolts on the bolt ladder pitch. Some are homemade hangers, some odd (but fat!) bolts; I pushed two of the loose rawls back in their holes which were sticking out ~1". Not much to worry about if leading since there are TONS of bolts, but may be a cause for concern if you solo the route with daisies like I did. Don't pull outward!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (p) Spiderman Buttress : Spiderman (5.7)
By: Richard Shore When: Apr 22, 2013

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Comments: This route is not listed in the Raptor Closures for 2013, but there are a pair of nesting hawks with 4 eggs in the crack before the second set of bolted anchors as of April. Please stay off the route so as not to disturb them further.


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