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Rock Climbing Photo: Eichorns Pinnacle


Member Since: Aug 17, 2009
Last Visit: 21 mins ago
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Richard Shore
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Point Rank: # 81
Total Points: 5,391
Last Year: 1,106
Last 30 Days: 148
314 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 3220 | Routes 152 | Areas 35 | Photos 584 | Page Improvements | Comments 426 | Posts 76 | Stars 1762 | Ratings 185
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : High Sierra : 06 - Little Lakes Valley & ... : Ruby Peak : Wide Sargasso Sea (5.10b)
By: Richard Shore When: May 14, 2016

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Comments: Jim - Correct me if I'm wrong, but I take it you haven't climbed any of these routes. I think it's pretty poor form to submit all these routes with verbatim descriptions stolen from the Secor book and photos (many of which are incorrect, BTW) that are stolen from Supertopo. I thought the point of MP was to go "beyond the guidebook"


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Wheeler Crest : Grey Towers : ... : Photo
By: Richard Shore When: Apr 28, 2016

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Comments: Natural protection and/or basic first aid opportunities depending on how careful you are.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Wheeler Crest : Grey Towers : East Buttress - Super Grey ... (5.10+)
By: Richard Shore When: Apr 26, 2016

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Comments: LOL! I think someone is upset he couldn't come along..


Location: CA : High Sierra : 13 - Whitney and Surroundin... : Lone Pine Peak : Winter Route (5.7)
By: Richard Shore When: Apr 21, 2016

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Comments: A more appropriate winter conditions grade - 5.7A0/5.9 AI2 M2-3. According to Secor, the route joins the last 6 pitches of the Direct South Face route, and the beta presented here for the headwall is a variation to that. From the rappel at the notch, head way left and up 4th class through the "Eye of the Needle", then back right on a huge ledge system. Take the 5.8 Smrz variation handcrack on the headwall above for the single best pitch on the whole climb.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Wheeler Crest : Grey Towers : Center Cobblers Direct (5.11a R)
By: Richard Shore When: Apr 16, 2016

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Comments: Good route, but strangely bolted on the crux pitch. You have to run it out like 50' off the belay and then make the hardest move yet just to clip the bolt, then bail off right to another bolt while many good stances were passed by the FA party. Beware the old notorious bronze-colored SMC hangers too. There appear to be 2 variations on P2 - the original FA party went out right past a few bolts, but it looked very difficult just to get over there. We went left past the one newer bolt. P6-7 link ea... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Lady Mountain : Original Route (5.7)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 15, 2016

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Comments: Good scramble/hike to a scenic summit. We did this a rest day activity between harder technical climbs, and found it very worthwhile. Fit parties can do this in a 4-6 hours round trip. I've seen this listed as 5.6 elsewhere, but there is not much actual climbing - there are maybe 2 ten-to-fifteen foot sections of easy 5th class. The rest is hiking/3rd/4th on many chiseled steps and past old rusted relics of the former park service "trail". Painted markers are a bit of an eyesore, but allow for e... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Wheeler Crest : Neptune Tower : Stormy Petrel (5.8 A0)
By: Richard Shore When: Oct 29, 2015

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Comments: From the AAJ:

"Quite prominent among the line of granitic walls and towers between the desert floor and the top of Wheeler Crest is a pink-toned cliff on the left flank, above Wells Peak. Mike Warburton and I had tried a line near the center of the cliff one winter, but fresh snow in the cracks became unduly frustrating. On a cold May weekend in 1982, Bryce Simon, John Feder and I hiked the scarp to the base of the dihedral that begins the route and reclimbed the first pitches. Our several old ... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Wheeler Crest : Wells Peak / Rabbit Ears : God's Grace (5.10c)
By: Richard Shore When: Oct 24, 2015

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Comments: Mike Strassman added this route to the old rc.com database in 2004, stating that there are 5 bolted pitches to gain the remaining 3 on the other routes. I found only 4 bolted pitches, and there hanging on the P3 anchor was a sunbleached rotten sling with 9 unused SS bolts and hangers. On top of P5 I found a new-ish bolted anchor of the same variety that he used below; this anchor is not indicated in the topo. Based on this I think it's likely that Mike had intentions of completing a bo... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Wheeler Crest : Wells Peak / Rabbit Ears : Direct North Ridge (5.10)
By: Richard Shore When: Oct 9, 2015

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Comments: Wow! What a proud and big line! No fixed gear of any kind on route. We felt that it was quite sustained 5.9-5.10 through the first 7 pitches on the wall. Another 5 long pitches (2 of which we simul-climbed) up the ridge to summit afterwards. Sporty moves above gear on nearly every pitch. While exciting, maybe not "R" but definitely "PG13". We trundled a few loose blocks, including the "bomber flake" on P3 (NOT bomber), and hopefully future parties will find it even better than we did. The roof o... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : 01 - The Sawtooth Ridge : Blacksmith Peak : North Arete (5.10-)
By: Richard Shore When: Sep 8, 2015

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Comments: Fun route, if a bit short for a grade III. We soloed the first "5.8" pitch to the base of the clean corner as described here in tennies - it was maybe 5.5 following the path of least resistance. 3 roped pitches through the crux corner, then one 300' simul pitch to the summit. 2.5 hours at a casual pace. Bring your fishing rod for sime apres climb fun - Glacier Lake is packed with trout!


Location: CA : High Sierra : 01 - The Sawtooth Ridge : Little Slide Spires : Outguard Spire : East Face Direct (5.10d)
By: Richard Shore When: Sep 8, 2015

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Comments: I was really impressed with this line. Mostly excellent rock, varied and sustained crack climbing with a bit of sporty face thrown in the mix. Just because you've finished the 5.10 pitches doesn't mean it's over - I thought the last 5.8 pitch was tough! One of the most airy summits in the Sierra!


Location: CA : High Sierra : 13 - Whitney and Surroundin... : Mt Carl Heller and Tulainyo... : East Arete - Mt. Carl Helle... (3rd)
By: Richard Shore When: Sep 3, 2015

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Comments: The BEST 3rd/4th class route I've done in these mountains, hands down. Spectacular position and a natural line directly on the knife-edge ridge. Miles better than Russell, Muir, Middle Pal, etc.


Location: CA : High Sierra : 13 - Whitney and Surroundin... : Mt Carl Heller and Tulainyo... : Tulainyo Tower (5.10+)
By: Richard Shore When: Sep 3, 2015

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Comments: An excellent route with a lot of really bad & loose rock. Choss connoisseurs rejoice! Helmets should be considered MANDATORY. The 5.10+ OW crux is short and well-protected with the 3/8" buttonhead bolt, and good small gear can be found just below to back it up. I managed to have a #2 camalot unclip itself from my harness while squirming up some 5.10 OW high on route - maybe the booty waiting at the base will attract other climbers to come try this thing.

Are there any alternate descents o... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : 13 - Whitney and Surroundin... : Mt. Langley : Rest & Be Thankful (aka Nor... (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: Aug 24, 2015

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Comments: This route has seen possibly as few as 4 ascents now, and it will still feel like the first when you're on it. We trundled dozens of loose blocks in an effort to clean things up a little bit. Most memorable section for me - tunneling up a chimney on P3 with a birthing-hole type squeeze exit at the top; only the exit was partially blocked by a 200 lb rock, which I was able to push over to the side with both arms overhead while my lower body was locked in below. Tape is highly recommende... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : 13 - Whitney and Surroundin... : Mt. Muir : East Buttress (w/ variation... (5.7)
By: Richard Shore When: Aug 17, 2015

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Comments: The 4th class Mendenhall route listed in the Moynier Sierra Classics book is anything but classic - it actually takes a deeply incised, extremely loose dirt and rock gully just to the right of the true East Buttress. Avoid this at all costs. A much better alternative is to take the Semi-Direct - stay on the true prow as much as possible, tackling the first tower via a number of cracks in the 5.7 range. The Claude and Nancy Fiddler 5.9 Direct tackles the second tower straight on via a fist crack.... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : Northwest Territories : The Cirque of the Unclimbab... : East Huey Spire : West Ridge (5.9)
By: Richard Shore When: Aug 6, 2015

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Comments: Ok, I feel obliged to comment after climbing this route. I'll give this one star for the awesome summit block and the fun initial 1000' cl.3-5 solo up the gully - which was sadly the best climbing on route. Very loose with loads of moss and mud. Stays wet for awhile after rain due to sun aspect and sheer volume of sponge-like plants on route. To compare - the worst pitch on the LFT is far better than the best pitch on the West Ridge. Be prepared for multiple stuck ropes on the low angle, block i... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : 10 - Kearsarge Pass to Ceda... : Bubbs Creek Wall : The Emperor (5.12a PG13)
By: Richard Shore When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: A beauty! Varied and sustained climbing with few (if any) pitches easier than 5.10. Upper pitches retain water during the early season, but don't wait too late because this south facing route will be baking by mid-summer. Technical slab/face + heat = grim. Needles quality rock with Whitney Portal-style climbing, linking discontinuous crack systems by way of improbable yet incredible face sections and some thought-provoking slab. Bring a comfy harness and stiff shoes - many steep/hanging belays. ... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : 09 - Palisades and Surround... : Norman Clyde Peak : Twilight Pillar (5.8)
By: Richard Shore When: Jul 13, 2015

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Comments: Fun route, but much shorter pitch-wise than suggested in the description. I believe most parties will avoid the glacier by scrambling up the long ridgeline to the northeast of the peak, traversing in below the large circular snowfield. Loads of 3rd and 4th class (with occasional easy class 5) will gain the steep part of the route where you will rope up. From the ledge at the base of the upper pillar, we did only 2 60M pitches and one 80M simul-pitch to the top. You can add a chossy 5.7 pitch by ... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : 13 - Whitney and Surroundin... : Mt. Irvine : East Buttress (5.9) : ... : Photo
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 23, 2015

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Comments: Yo Adam - this pic of yours shows the light-colored scar I referenced. Myself and another party believe this is where the bowling pin once was. You can make an outline of it pretty easily. Instead of climbing this, we opted for a crack/face to climbers right at the end of the ledge.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Matilija Wall
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 16, 2015

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Comments: I have removed/edited most of my own beta page, in an effort to help restore the adventure aspect of this place. The thoughtless actions of few can negatively affect the access for the rest of us.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Grizzly Peak : Southwest Arete (4th)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: A really fun scenic scramble, and a nice change of pace from the typical Valley climb. Bit of a ant-filled bushwhack in places, but some cool knife-edge style exposure when out on the rock. The best route stays as close to the ridge as one feels comfortable - definitely some 5th class fun to be found.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Sentinel Peak
By: Richard Shore When: May 13, 2015

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Comments: Attempted the supposed 5.4 way on the summit block, way sketchy in approach shoes - insecure slab. Walked around to the south side of the summit block and found a cruiser (but steep) 30' handcrack. Clean and juggy with a fixed baby angle sticking 2" out of the rock on the left side. Matt's comments on the Cosmo the Crow route suggest this might be 5.9, but I felt it was much easier, MAYBE 5.7. I had no hesitations climbing up and down it in tennies. Great views, rad summit!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Cactus Flower Tower : Cactus Flower Tower Summit : The Warrior (5.11a)
By: Richard Shore When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: If you feel confident at the grade, I would suggest bringing just one rope and going to the summit. Walk off/down scramble the west ridge - straightforward and scenic. Just remember, if you have to bail with one cord it will be expensive (leaving #3/4/5/6 camalots for anchors between bolted stations). Stout, physical, burly, wide, & aesthetic; a big-boys climb. Used the #4s, 5, and 6 on almost every pitch up to P6.

According to the summit register 0-1 parties/year actually... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : West Temple : Big Lebowski (5.11a/b PG13)
By: Richard Shore When: Apr 9, 2015

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Comments: To use the parlance of our times - this route is a fu@ked-up-mega-choss-pile-never-to-be-forgotten adventure classic; a beautiful line drawn in the sand. By our estimates, there were 5 or 6 quality pitches out of the guidebook's 21. There is an unrelenting amount of physical wide climbing - bring your armor or you'll be entering a world of pain. 2x #5 and a single #6 camalot were sufficient for protecting the Jesus OW pitch, but dios mio, man! You come in here thinking you'... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland South : Far East : ... : Poaching Bighorn (5.11b)
By: Richard Shore When: Mar 16, 2015

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Comments: Slightly dissapointed with this rig - a very short and desperate crux right off the deck on an otherwise long and moderate route.


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