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Eichorns Pinnacle


Member Since: Aug 17, 2009
Last Visit: 10 mins ago
Contact Richard Shore


Point Rank: # 99
Total Points: 4,289
Last Year: 819
Last 30 Days: 67
207 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Richard Shore been climbing?










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Contributions


All 2940 | Routes 135 | Areas 27 | Photos 425 | Page Improvements | Comments 409 | Posts 75 | Stars 1689 | Ratings 180
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Cactus Flower Tower : Cactus Flower Tower summit : The Warrior (5.11a)
By: Richard Shore When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: If you feel confident at the grade, I would suggest bringing just one rope and going to the summit. Walk off/down scramble the west ridge - straightforward and scenic. Just remember, if you have to bail with one cord it will be expensive (leaving #3/4/5/6 camalots for anchors between bolted stations). Stout, physical, burly, wide, & aesthetic; a man's climb. Used the #4s, 5, and 6 on almost every pitch up to P6.

According to the summit register only 1 party/year actually g... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : West Temple : Big Lebowski (5.11a/b PG13)
By: Richard Shore When: Apr 9, 2015

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Comments: To use the parlance of our times - this route is a fu@ked-up-mega-choss-pile-never-to-be-forgotten adventure classic; a beautiful line drawn in the sand. By our estimates, there were 5 or 6 quality pitches out of the guidebook's 21. There is an unrelenting amount of physical wide climbing - bring your armor or you'll be entering a world of pain. 2x #5 and a single #6 camalot were sufficient for protecting the Jesus OW pitch, but dios mio, man! You come in here thinking you'... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Bighorn Dome : Poaching Bighorn (5.11b)
By: Richard Shore When: Mar 16, 2015

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Comments: Slightly dissapointed with this rig - a very short and desperate crux right off the deck on an otherwise long and moderate route.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Bighorn Dome : Greenhorn Dihedral (5.10c)
By: Richard Shore When: Mar 16, 2015

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Comments: Yeah, the rock is a little grainy, but I'd take that anyday over those greased up campground climbs. Much more sustained and engaging at the grade than the nearby classic Poaching Bighorn, so I'll steal a star from that and give it here.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall : Eagle Dance (5.10 A1)
By: Richard Shore When: Mar 11, 2015

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Comments: If you rap before P11, you haven't done the route - don't bail after P4 or before P9 as others have suggested above. The crux P9 is IMO the best pitch on the route - a technical flaring groove with funky body English. One of the most scenic walk-offs I've done in RR, down cascading pools and slabs in the upper reaches of the canyon. 2.5 hours from the summit to the car, including a swim. Probably no longer than the time it would take you to rappel and reverse the approach slabs.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Higher Cathedral Rock : Mary's Tears (5.11a/b)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: Thought this route was fun, but a far cry from the classic that others have made it out to be. P1 and P4 are forgettable, and even the "good" pitches are somewhat dirty. Consider it for a harder alternate start to the NE Buttress, but by no means worthy of the long hike for just the 4 pitches alone.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Vanishing Flakes (5.11a)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 14, 2015

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Comments: Thanks, Matt, for your time and effort in restoring this historic ground-up route. Hopefully the rock isnt too badly scarred from this whole ordeal.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Ribbon Falls Area : Gold Wall : The Silent Line (5.10 C1)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 13, 2015

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Comments: We were able to descend from top of P7 all the way to the ground on a single 70M. Knots were right at the chains on top of P1, though, so bring that second cord and leave it at the base in case your rope isn't as long. Link 1&2, and start free climbing in the vicinity of the knobs after a few aid moves above the P1 anchor. Handcracks for days!


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mt. Kinesava : Tatoween (5.11a)
By: Richard Shore When: Dec 22, 2014

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Comments: Wow, excellent line! Lots of sustained crack climbing with a bit of face thrown in the mix. I felt that this line was much more demanding than Positive Vibrations on the Incredible Hulk, which is the same length and grade (albeit on granite). Without much trouble, we did the route in 10 pitches with a 60M, linking the ST pitches as follows: 1&2, 3&4, 5, 6, 7, 8&9, 10&11, 12, 13&14 (rope drag!), 15. 6&7 might also link, but it'd be one hell of a burly pitch done that way. Route goes pretty quickl... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Real Hidden Valley Vicinity : Turtle Rock : ... : Sexy Sadye (5.10d)
By: Richard Shore When: Dec 15, 2014

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Comments: Excellent and bold, great rock and line. 1st bolt at 10', do the math for the rest.. keep your sh@t together!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Cirque of the Climbables : Cirque of the Climbables - ... : Peer Pressure (5.10c)
By: Richard Shore When: Dec 15, 2014

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Comments: Short and steep, beware the <50' JT 5.10!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Cirque of the Climbables : Cirque of the Climbables - ... : Christmas Tree Arete (5.10c)
By: Richard Shore When: Dec 15, 2014

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Comments: Easiest .10c tick in the park. A short overhanging jug-haul with easier jug-hauling above. The obvious 8' tall "Christmas tree" marks the start.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : The Pearls : Black Pearl (5.10d)
By: Richard Shore When: Dec 15, 2014

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Comments: While the climbing quality is good, I give this a bomb because it should not even exist as an independent line. It bypasses the first 30' of pearl drops and climbs NO different terrain, starting at its 3rd bolt - weak sauce. **** in the Vogel guide, wtf?! Don't short-change yourself, start from the bottom on PD


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : The Pearls : Zircon (5.9+ PG13)
By: Richard Shore When: Dec 15, 2014

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Comments: A few committing moves before you get any good gear - 30' off the deck. A marginal #3 RP was enough mental pro to step up into the thin crack, but a hidden #0 tcu exists behind the handhold (can't see until above it).


Location: CA : San Diego County : Corte Madera : Main Wall : Sunset Streaks (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: Dec 8, 2014

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Comments: PSA - a fair amount of loose debris and rock exists on nearly every belay ledge, and this casual sport climb should be treated with a bit of alpine respect. A very inconsiderate local party who was rappelling in from above trundled a large block from 500' up, not knowing there were climbers directly below. It exploded into grapefruit-sized blocks above our heads and all around us, nearly bringing a tragic end to our day of fun in the sun. One particular member of this party was adamant that his ... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Corte Madera : Main Wall : South Buttress (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: Dec 8, 2014

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Comments: Excellent line; felt more committing than say something at Tahquitz due to the remoteness and lack of other climbers and fixed gear. Never felt runout on P3 - I was able to place a handful of tiny cams and nuts with looong slings (think 6'+ to keep drag down) off to the right before traversing back left under the roof. #5 cam not necessary.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Comic Book Area : Mary Worth Buttress : Welcome to Joshua Tree (5.10c)
By: Richard Shore When: Nov 5, 2014

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Comments: Excellent and varied face climbing with plenty of spice. Getting to the high first bolt is not trivial, and the final 15' of P2 - up above gear with a haunting slab below - will test the nerves of any honed JTree slab master. Be solid.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Comic Book Area : Astronomy Rock : Stargazer (5.10b)
By: Richard Shore When: Nov 5, 2014

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Comments: Short but fierce! Barndoor-y with lots of body tension. Ancient slings on the anchor bolts were replaced 11/2014 - consider bringing two 12" sections of chain and some quicklinks instead. Lead bolts are 3/8" buttonheads. Best viewed and approached from above at the Mary Worth Buttress.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Isaac : Tricks of the Trade (5.10+ C2+)
By: Richard Shore When: Oct 31, 2014

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Comments: An amazing adventure route, assuming you like sandy chimneys and wide cracks. Rumors of a 500'-600' handcrack on the headwall are false - it is a mere 200' (albeit an amazing 200', one of the best pitches I've climbed, and in a spectacular position). The lower half of this route is a drainage course for the ledgy sandy middle section - I literally saw sand spindrifts coming down the Mines of Mordor and Calvinator pitches. Free-flowing sand is plastered to the walls of the chimneys. Go light and ... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Ruby Peak : Photo
By: Richard Shore When: Oct 15, 2014

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Comments: That is not the descent gully we took, though it may also work. Our descent lies just outside of the photograph on the right, after following the sandy plateau to it's NE corner and down a gully/rock rib towards the Mono Pass trail.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Barnard East Peak (aka ...
By: Richard Shore When: Sep 24, 2014

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Comments: Having heard horror-stories about the grueling, bushwhacking epic of an approach up George Creek, I must admit I found it to be straightforward and not that bad. There was almost always SOME kind of trail to be found, albeit heavily overgrown. A machete might be good to take along the bottom 1/3rd of the creek to help clean up the path. We made the lake camp in only 5 hours from the trailhead (~4800' gain). 1:15 to base of route, 1:15 summit to camp, and a fast 3 hours from camp back to the car.... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Barnard East Peak (aka ... : East Face (aka East Pillar) (5.9)
By: Richard Shore When: Sep 24, 2014

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Comments: Amazing climbing in a remote and pristine setting. Sustained 5.8-5.9 for the last 7 pitches. Pretty clean for a neglected Sierra classic. We trundled a few loose blocks, and future parties will hopefully find it cleaner than we did. Take caution on the first 2.5 pitches - we witnessed a few small rockfalls come down the P2 "easy gully" and shower over the first pitch. The topo and description posted here are excellent resources. Never felt the need for a #4 cam. Thanks for the killer page,... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Russell : Western Front (5.10c)
By: Richard Shore When: Sep 17, 2014

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Comments: I seem to remember two cheater stones perfectly placed at the P1 belay to help get established on P2. Without these, it looked pretty desperate to get into the corner/crack off the belay ledge (even at 6'3"). Maybe 5.11, or harder? Keep future parties in mind - do them a favor and DON'T trundle those blocks!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Bitch Free Zone (5.11a/b)
By: Richard Shore When: Sep 16, 2014

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Comments: Here's an idea:

Let the route fall into obscurity; allow the moss and lichen to grow back on the rock. Somebody re-climb it 10 years from now and re-claim the FA and rename it whatever they want. Seems to be common practice nowadays amongst the bouldering contingent in the area. I'm thinking we can rename the whole area while we're at it - something along the lines of "Black Canyon of the Gunnison" if it isn't already taken.

Or, maybe we can respect the name given by the FAists, take... more >>


Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Moro Rock (SEKI) : South Face (5.7+)
By: Richard Shore When: Sep 15, 2014

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Comments: The description here is excellent. No topo needed. The approach pitch is 4th class, and if you value your skin you will encounter easy 5th class face/slab to avoid heinous vertical bushwhacking. P1 is all of 5.8, with shallow, flaring, and somewhat insecure crack climbing. P2 & 3 are easily combined with a 60M rope, just make sure not to place any gear under the huge block/boulder at the top of the P2 belay so rope drag doesnt kill you on the final 30 feet. As noted by others, the easy 5th class... more >>


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