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Rock Climbing Photo: Eichorns Pinnacle


Member Since: Aug 17, 2009
Last Visit: 8 mins ago
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Richard Shore
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Total Points: 5,543
Last Year: 1,137
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 3297 | Routes 153 | Areas 36 | Photos 608 | Page Improvements | Comments 433 | Posts 76 | Stars 1806 | Ratings 185
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : High Sierra : 06 - Little Lakes Valley & ... : Third Recess Peak : North Buttress (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Nice route, decent rock quality and great exposure on the first half. The first 6 pitches are all good, then it gets a bit junky and wanders to the summit. This route is presented in 12 pitches according to the topo in Moynier/Fiddler, with some 5.9 on the upper stretches. I think you'd have to force yourself out onto the arete to find any 5.9 up high. We simulclimbed the last 4-6 pitches in one go - easy 5th class with many options. Descent gully was straightforward and quic... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : 08 - Bishop Pass and Evolut... : Picture Peak : NE Buttress (5.10b)
By: Richard Shore When: Aug 20, 2016

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Comments: Really good route; not to be missed. Should be on every Eastside aficionados list. P2 & 3 are easy scramble throw-aways, but the rest of the climb is spectacular. P1, 4, 5, and 7 are great ****, and the long sustained P6 might be the best pitch of climbing I've done in the Sierra (excluding the Incredible Hulk) *****. Bring at least a 60M rope and be ready to simulclimb a few feet on most of the rope stretching pitches. The hands-to-OW P7 is only 100'@SEMIC... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : 13 - Whitney and Surroundin... : Mt. Cleaver
By: Richard Shore When: Aug 13, 2016

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Comments: The formation is just called "The Cleaver." No Mt prefix. And contrary to the authors opinion the Cleaver and associated camp DO fall within the designated Whitney Zone, meaning both Day Use and Overnight Permits are required, see link for map - fs.usda.gov/wps/portal/fsinter...... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : High Sierra Camps : Nightingale Arete (5.9+)
By: Richard Shore When: Aug 8, 2016

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Comments: Super cool-looking feature with some great climbing. We started by 4th-classing up the toe of the buttress and then likely adding a technical pitch to the route. I think the original line starts by traversing in the horizontal vegetated ledges up and left. 5 long pitches led to the ridge, then a long 3rd and 4th class knife-edge ridge (Bartlett "Class 2", ha!) to the upper arete. 3 pitches on the upper arete to summit. The crux pitch is also sandbagged at 5.9 - whil... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cloud's Rest : My Favorite Things (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: Aug 8, 2016

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Comments: Route is unaffected by the 2015 rockfall. Photos of the rockfall show that it fell off to the side of this line. This route follows a narrow spur between two huge gullies which funnel the 4000' face - the only "safe" spot for a climbing route on the wall. All bolted anchors are in great shape. Nice long moderate route on high quality stone.


Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Kings Canyon : North Dome : North of Eden (5.10+)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 8, 2016

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Comments: Nice, Brian! Ive always been interested in this one. Now go do the free version of the Tom Frost South Face route and report back.


Location: CA : High Sierra : 13 - Whitney and Surroundin... : Lone Pine Peak : Milktoast Chimney (5.8)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 6, 2016

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Comments: Admins - can we move this route to the newly created Peak 3986 page where it belongs?


Location: CA : High Sierra : 13 - Whitney and Surroundin... : Peak 3986 : Red Baron Tower (5.10)
By: Richard Shore When: Jun 6, 2016

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Comments: Words from the late, great, Brutus of Wyde:

"Two years after the ascent of the Direct South Face (Lone Pine Peak), Fred returned to the area with Barry Hagen and made the long, arduous approach to Red Baron Tower. After working through the fearsome overhangs and steep dihedrals low on the route, the pair found continuously interesting free climbing to the summit.

For many years, this climb remained unrepeated. The easier approach to longer routes in the drainage doubtless was a factor, as was ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mud Spring Canyon : Global Peak : Chuckwalla 21 (5.9 PG13)
By: Richard Shore When: May 31, 2016

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Comments: Not sure what all the 3-4hr approach hubbub is about, I guess some people get REALLY lost up there. Took us 1:30 to the base first try following Supertopo beta without any shortcuts. Seemed pretty straightforward with some routefinding skills. Ample time for a swim in the pools afterward AND climb the Schwa on the way out, all well before dark. Fun route, but hardly a classic. Ball nuts didn't seem to provide any additional protection that small stoppers couldn't match.


Location: CA : High Sierra : 06 - Little Lakes Valley & ... : Ruby Peak : Wide Sargasso Sea (5.10b)
By: Richard Shore When: May 14, 2016

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Comments: Jim - Correct me if I'm wrong, but I take it you haven't climbed any of these routes. I think it's pretty poor form to submit all these routes with verbatim descriptions stolen from the Secor book and photos (many of which are incorrect, BTW) that are stolen from Supertopo. I thought the point of MP was to go "beyond the guidebook"


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Wheeler Crest : Grey Towers : ... : Photo
By: Richard Shore When: Apr 28, 2016

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Comments: Natural protection and/or basic first aid opportunities depending on how careful you are.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Wheeler Crest : Grey Towers : East Buttress - Super Grey ... (5.10+)
By: Richard Shore When: Apr 26, 2016

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Comments: LOL! I think someone is upset he couldn't come along..


Location: CA : High Sierra : 13 - Whitney and Surroundin... : Lone Pine Peak : Winter Route (5.7)
By: Richard Shore When: Apr 21, 2016

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Comments: A more appropriate winter conditions grade - 5.7A0/5.9 AI2 M2-3. According to Secor, the route joins the last 6 pitches of the Direct South Face route, and the beta presented here for the headwall is a variation to that. From the rappel at the notch, head way left and up 4th class through the "Eye of the Needle", then back right on a huge ledge system. Take the 5.8 Smrz variation handcrack on the headwall above for the single best pitch on the whole climb.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Wheeler Crest : Grey Towers : Center Cobblers Direct (5.11a R)
By: Richard Shore When: Apr 16, 2016

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Comments: Good route, but strangely bolted on the crux pitch. You have to run it out like 50' off the belay and then make the hardest move yet just to clip the bolt, then bail off right to another bolt while many good stances were passed by the FA party. Beware the old notorious bronze-colored SMC hangers too. There appear to be 2 variations on P2 - the original FA party went out right past a few bolts, but it looked very difficult just to get over there. We went left past the one newer bolt. P6-7 link ea... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Lady Mountain : Original Route (5.7)
By: Richard Shore When: Jan 15, 2016

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Comments: Good scramble/hike to a scenic summit. We did this a rest day activity between harder technical climbs, and found it very worthwhile. Fit parties can do this in a 4-6 hours round trip. I've seen this listed as 5.6 elsewhere, but there is not much actual climbing - there are maybe 2 ten-to-fifteen foot sections of easy 5th class. The rest is hiking/3rd/4th on many chiseled steps and past old rusted relics of the former park service "trail". Painted markers are a bit of an eyesore, but allow for e... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Wheeler Crest : Neptune Tower : Stormy Petrel (5.8 A0)
By: Richard Shore When: Oct 29, 2015

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Comments: From the AAJ:

"Quite prominent among the line of granitic walls and towers between the desert floor and the top of Wheeler Crest is a pink-toned cliff on the left flank, above Wells Peak. Mike Warburton and I had tried a line near the center of the cliff one winter, but fresh snow in the cracks became unduly frustrating. On a cold May weekend in 1982, Bryce Simon, John Feder and I hiked the scarp to the base of the dihedral that begins the route and reclimbed the first pitches. Our several old ... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Wheeler Crest : Wells Peak / Rabbit Ears : God's Grace (5.10c)
By: Richard Shore When: Oct 24, 2015

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Comments: Mike Strassman added this route to the old rc.com database in 2004, stating that there are 5 bolted pitches to gain the remaining 3 on the other routes. I found only 4 bolted pitches, and there hanging on the P3 anchor was a sunbleached rotten sling with 9 unused SS bolts and hangers. On top of P5 I found a new-ish bolted anchor of the same variety that he used below; this anchor is not indicated in the topo. Based on this I think it's likely that Mike had intentions of completing a bo... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Wheeler Crest : Wells Peak / Rabbit Ears : Direct North Ridge (5.10)
By: Richard Shore When: Oct 9, 2015

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Comments: Wow! What a proud and big line! No fixed gear of any kind on route. We felt that it was quite sustained 5.9-5.10 through the first 7 pitches on the wall. Another 5 long pitches (2 of which we simul-climbed) up the ridge to summit afterwards. Sporty moves above gear on nearly every pitch. While exciting, maybe not "R" but definitely "PG13". We trundled a few loose blocks, including the "bomber flake" on P3 (NOT bomber), and hopefully future parties will find it even better than we did. The roof o... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : 02 - The Sawtooth Ridge : Blacksmith Peak : North Arete (5.10-)
By: Richard Shore When: Sep 8, 2015

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Comments: Fun route, if a bit short for a grade III. We soloed the first "5.8" pitch to the base of the clean corner as described here in tennies - it was maybe 5.5 following the path of least resistance. 3 roped pitches through the crux corner, then one 300' simul pitch to the summit. 2.5 hours at a casual pace. Bring your fishing rod for sime apres climb fun - Glacier Lake is packed with trout!


Location: CA : High Sierra : 02 - The Sawtooth Ridge : Little Slide Spires : Outguard Spire : East Face Direct (5.10d)
By: Richard Shore When: Sep 8, 2015

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Comments: I was really impressed with this line. Mostly excellent rock, varied and sustained crack climbing with a bit of sporty face thrown in the mix. Just because you've finished the 5.10 pitches doesn't mean it's over - I thought the last 5.8 pitch was tough! One of the most airy summits in the Sierra!


Location: CA : High Sierra : 13 - Whitney and Surroundin... : Mt Carl Heller and Tulainyo... : East Arete - Mt. Carl Helle... (4th)
By: Richard Shore When: Sep 3, 2015

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Comments: The BEST 3rd/4th class route I've done in these mountains, hands down. Spectacular position and a natural line directly on the knife-edge ridge. Miles better than Russell, Muir, Middle Pal, etc.


Location: CA : High Sierra : 13 - Whitney and Surroundin... : Mt Carl Heller and Tulainyo... : Tulainyo Tower (5.10+)
By: Richard Shore When: Sep 3, 2015

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Comments: An excellent route with a lot of really bad & loose rock. Choss connoisseurs rejoice! Helmets should be considered MANDATORY. The 5.10+ OW crux is short and well-protected with the 3/8" buttonhead bolt, and good small gear can be found just below to back it up. I managed to have a #2 camalot unclip itself from my harness while squirming up some 5.10 OW high on route - maybe the booty waiting at the base will attract other climbers to come try this thing.

Are there any alternate descents o... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : 13 - Whitney and Surroundin... : Mt. Langley : Rest & Be Thankful (aka Nor... (5.10a)
By: Richard Shore When: Aug 24, 2015

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Comments: This route has seen possibly as few as 4 ascents now, and it will still feel like the first when you're on it. We trundled dozens of loose blocks in an effort to clean things up a little bit. Most memorable section for me - tunneling up a chimney on P3 with a birthing-hole type squeeze exit at the top; only the exit was partially blocked by a 200 lb rock, which I was able to push over to the side with both arms overhead while my lower body was locked in below. Tape is highly recommende... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : 13 - Whitney and Surroundin... : Mt. Muir : East Buttress (w/ variation... (5.7)
By: Richard Shore When: Aug 17, 2015

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Comments: The 4th class Mendenhall route listed in the Moynier Sierra Classics book is anything but classic - it actually takes a deeply incised, extremely loose dirt and rock gully just to the right of the true East Buttress. Avoid this at all costs. A much better alternative is to take the Semi-Direct - stay on the true prow as much as possible, tackling the first tower via a number of cracks in the 5.7 range. The Claude and Nancy Fiddler 5.9 Direct tackles the second tower straight on via a fist crack.... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : Northwest Territories : The Cirque of the Unclimbab... : East Huey Spire : West Ridge (5.9)
By: Richard Shore When: Aug 6, 2015

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Comments: Ok, I feel obliged to comment after climbing this route. I'll give this one star for the awesome summit block and the fun initial 1000' cl.3-5 solo up the gully - which was sadly the best climbing on route. Very loose with loads of moss and mud. Stays wet for awhile after rain due to sun aspect and sheer volume of sponge-like plants on route. To compare - the worst pitch on the LFT is far better than the best pitch on the West Ridge. Be prepared for multiple stuck ropes on the low angle, block i... more >>


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