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Member Since: Jul 1, 2002
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Richard Rossiter


Point Rank: # 577
Total Points: 1,076
Last Year: 4
Last 30 Days: 2
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 323 | Routes 43 | Areas 4 | Photos 102 | Page Improvements | Comments 76 | Posts 2 | Stars 87 | Ratings 9
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Notchtop
By: Richard Rossiter When: Nov 10, 2014

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Comments: Hello Charles. Thanks for responding. Here is the text from my 1997 guide to RMNP, High Peaks.

Descent. From the top of the Notch Spire, downclimb 30 feet west (cl3), gain a scree-covered ledge, and follow it north to the notch between the Notch Spire and the main summit. Scramble north up the east side of the crest and gain the true summit of Notchtop Mountain. From the summit, follow a grassy ramp down along the west side of the crest to the top of the West Gully, then hike down... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Notchtop
By: Richard Rossiter When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: I am curious about Charles Vernon's comment, that the descent described in my 1997 guide to the High Peaks, is "dangerous." I am currently writing a new guidebook the High Peaks of RMNP, so it is important for me to know if I have written something misleading. Here is the descent description for the new book:

Descent. From the top of Notch Spire, downclimb 30 feet west (Class 4) to a scree-covered ledge. Follow the ledge north to the notch between Notch Spire and the main summit. Scramble ... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Taylor Peak : Quicksilver (5.8 Steep Snow) : Photo
By: Richard Rossiter When: Dec 12, 2013

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Comments: This is slightly confusing. The route shown in this photo is the Central Buttress (named at the bottom of the photo). Quicksilver begins up and left, at a high point in the snowfield, directly below the notch in the South Ridge. The photo caption seems correct.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale & uphill : Northwest Face Route - That... (WI3-4)
By: Richard Rossiter When: Nov 21, 2013

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Comments: I think the route described here is the Northeast Gully. The Northwest Face route is way around to the right of Upper Wall, above Lake of Glass, and is somewhat easier (II WI3). FA: R. Grange and R. Greenman, 1981. See Greg Sievers' photo under Deep Freeze.

Martin le Roux's comments on the "South Gully" are correct. This is the standard peak bagger’s route to the summit of Thatchtop, normally climbed during summer. It descends to the north, passes right under Mixed Emotions, and has been cal... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : A Walk in The Park : A Walk In The Park (5.5)
By: Richard Rossiter When: Jul 9, 2010

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Comments: A Walk In The Park is indeed The Great Wheel. The difference is that The Great Wheel, published in my 1997 guidebook to RMNP, had been climbed only in pieces. After completing the whole circuit in a single push (2009), I renamed it A Walk In The Park. I don't really care what it is called. It is a fantastic outing by any name.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : A Walk in The Park : A Walk In The Park (5.5)
By: Richard Rossiter When: Jul 2, 2010

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Comments: Justin, it requires 4 USGS QUADRANGLES to really see the complete outline or ridge crest surrounding Glacier Gorge: McHenrys Peak, Isolation Peak, Allens Park and Longs Peak Quadrangles. Flattop Mountain, Hallett Peak, Otis Peak and Taylor Peak are not part of the rim of Glacier Gorge, nor are Arrowhead and Spearhead.

I did the circuit "A Walk In The Park" counterclockwise, which necessarily includes the following summits: Thatchtop Mountain, Powell Peak, McHenry's Peak, Chief's Head Peak, ... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Full House (5.12)
By: Richard Rossiter When: Jun 5, 2010

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Comments: BRETT, I am near the completion of a new guide to the High Peaks of RMNP. I would like to add your route, but I am currently unable to differentiate it from Gear and Clothing, Queen of Spades, et cetera. You can reach me at rrossiter1@msn.com. I can send you an attached topo of the aid climbs above the Green Pillar. Perhaps you could mark in your route, so that I can place it correctly in the text and draw the line accurately on a new topo. Best Regards, Richard Rossiter


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Keyboard of the Winds : ... : Photo
By: Richard Rossiter When: Sep 13, 2009

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Comments: Leo, So it does, but I think this dihedral faces the other way (right) and is a wee little bit more difficult.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Overflow
By: Richard Rossiter When: Dec 23, 2008

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Comments: I am not fussy about the name, but I do know the source of the name Overflow. Ralph Baldwin, Time Hogan and myself were skiing in to Black Lake to climb what is now known as the West Gully, December, 1977. I caught a hint of the ice through the trees (Overflow that is) and said, "Hey, let's check this out." So we did. I led the pitch up the thick ice in the middle of the flow and brought up Tim and Ralph. We rapped off and on our way to Black Lake came up with name Overflow for the whole fe... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Third Tier : ... : Blade (5.11a)
By: Richard Rossiter When: Nov 26, 2008

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Comments: Looking back on Dragon Slayer, it is true that all of the cracks on the Third Tier were pretty clogged as was the entire crag when I started working out the climbs in 1996. But hindsight is always 20-20 and I would say now that much of my work on Avalon and Sleeping Beauty was a little "sport sighted." Maybe next season I can return and remove some of the unnecessary bolts.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale & uphill : North Face Icefield
By: Richard Rossiter When: Nov 24, 2008

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Comments: How do you get down from the top of the North Face Ice Field? There are several options, but only one of them is safe and practical. The ice field tops out on the Continental Divide just shy of 13000 feet. The best and safest descent is to hike the Divide behind Point 13015, behind Taylor Peak 13153 and descend the Andrews Glacier and Andrews Creek Trail back to the Loch Vale Trail. This means that you carry all your gear with you because a return to the base of the climb is fairly inconveni... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Ship's Prow : Photo
By: Richard Rossiter When: Jun 9, 2008

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Comments: Ron. I don't know what if anything goes up the big shaded corner in the center of your photo, but I don't think it is Portal. I think Portal splits the middle of the clean face to the left of the big dihedral.

PORTAL II 9 *
FA: Stan Shepard and Bob Boucher (II 5.9 A1), 1963.
This route follows the vertical, left-facing dihedral to the right of Stromboli and is one of the best routes on the Ship's Prow. Begin in the Stromboli Chimney.
1. Climb past grassy ledges and a chockstone, then trav... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Arrowhead : Photo (Copy)
By: Richard Rossiter When: Aug 15, 2007

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Comments: The features pictured in this photo are from left to right: South Face Right (just right of the left skyline), the summit, Arrowhead Spire (the obvious pinnacle), the East Buttress (with the solemn Rorschach face) and the Northeast Ridge (the right skyline, which rises in a continuous crest from the east end of Solitude Lake).

The actual east face of Arrowhead, as in the name of the old route described in Richard DuMais guidebook (1981), is the large triangular face of the East Buttress, see... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Arrowhead : ... : Photo
By: Richard Rossiter When: Aug 15, 2007

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Comments: The features pictured in this photo are from left to right: South Face Right (just right of the left skyline), the summit, Arrowhead Spire (the obvious pinnacle), the East Buttress (with the solemn Rorschach face) and the Northeast Ridge (the right skyline, which rises in a continuous crest from the east end of Solitude Lake).

The actual east face of Arrowhead, as in the name of the old route described in Richard DuMais guidebook (1981), is the large triangular face of the East Buttress, see... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Boulderado
By: Richard Rossiter When: Aug 6, 2007

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Comments: The missing ring hanger at the top of Idle Hands was replaced with a new quick link set up as of 8/6/07. I also checked the other three anchors for Jam It, Ho Hum and Mons. Everything is tightened down and set with red Locktite...should hold up for a while.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Third Tier : ... : Thus Us (5.9-)
By: Richard Rossiter When: Jul 16, 2007

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Comments: FYI. There is a new 2-ring-bolt anchor at the top left of the ENEMY WITHIN as of 2 July 2007. This anchor has a very good stance and serves the finish to THUS US as well.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Third Tier : ... : Resurrection (5.9)
By: Richard Rossiter When: Jul 3, 2007

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Comments: The tree above the finish to Ancient Fright is gone as of October 2005. A gigantic boulder tipped over and shattered the tree, but did not quite break it off. Thus the boulder teetered precariously against the tree, 200 feet above the approach gully.

I came up with a tree surgeon's saw on a 10-foot fibre glass pole and cut the tree until it snapped under the weight of the boulder. This was a hairy opperation as I had to get down even with the base of the tree to wield the saw. This boulder... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Wrinkles in Time (5.8+)
By: Richard Rossiter When: May 9, 2007

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Comments: Date of the FA was June 1996. This was our first route on the Dream Dome and the first new route since Kyle Copeland visited the rock in 1984.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : The Deep (5.11c)
By: Richard Rossiter When: May 9, 2007

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Comments: The date of the FA was June 1996 as for all three routes on The Icon, just next door.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Zentropa (5.11a)
By: Richard Rossiter When: May 7, 2007

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Comments: I set up this really nice route with Gail Effron during the summer of 1997. The final moves at the top of the first pitch were very difficult BEFORE a hold broke off. 5.11a was a sandbag in the first place. The route to the right of this with red hangers was called Diabloque. See Rock Climbing Boulder Canyon, A Falcon Guide, 1999. I placed the bolts, but I thought the whole thing was weird and lacked continuity, so I never went back to redpoint it. I probably should have just stuck with it. ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Weenie Roast (5.9)
By: Richard Rossiter When: May 7, 2007

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Comments: Regarding the name of the route: I led this route on-sight with Colleen Greene on a very warm mid-summer day. Above the final hard parts we came upon two young men, on what they must have thought was a secluded ledge. They were completely naked and I would rather not commit to print what they were doing with their hard parts (weenies).

As some of you will recall, Upper Dream Canyon was a well-known nude hot spot for the gay community...until Bob Horan and I bolted the shit out of the place... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Strange Cargo (5.11a)
By: Richard Rossiter When: May 7, 2007

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Comments: Regarding the First Ascent: I set up this route and placed the bolts with the help of Colleen Greene during the summer of 1996. I led the whole route the day after placing the bolts with Colleen, Dan Hare and Moe Hershoff.

It is hard to imagine the amount of work that went into many of the routes in Dream Canyon and elsewhere in Boulder Canyon. For example, the big ledge at the top of the second pitch of Strange Cargo was covered with 12 inches or so of earthen soil, grass, thistles, shatte... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Raise the Titanic (5.11b)
By: Richard Rossiter When: May 7, 2007

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Comments: Regarding the First Ascent: I cleaned, bolted and led this route during the summer of 1996 with the help of Leah Macaluso and Bonnie Von Grebe. If I had found any evidence of a previous ascent, I certainly would not have bothered with it. This would be the missing beta.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty : Main Wall : Kama Sutra (5.10b)
By: Richard Rossiter When: Oct 4, 2006

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Comments: "Assumption is the mother of all fuck ups." Wisdom from PULP FICTION.

This 4-foot-tall tree was removed because it was totally in your face at the top of the off-width, totally wrapped around you at the only possible belay and was being slowly destroyed by people belaying and climbing the second pitch. I could not stand to see the slow mutilation of this ill-fated Douglas fir. Perhaps you can think of it as a mercy killing. For the record, I dearly love trees. THE MEMORY OF TREES. THE TR... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Asahi (5.10c PG13)
By: Richard Rossiter When: Sep 20, 2006

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Comments: Joyce and I put up Asahi during the summer of 1988 with just 3 bolts on the first pitch. The first bolt was originally 30 or 40 feet off the ground (where it is now), but just left of the arete. The bolts and hangers were removed/stolen the next summer (ironically) by two individuals who a few years later obtained a rock drill and began putting up their own bolt protected face climbs. Humans are a strange species, no? I replaced the 3 bolts and hangers within a week of their removal. By the... more >>


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