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Mountain Bike Action!


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 21 hours ago
Contact richard magill


Point Rank: # 191
Total Points: 2,678
Last Year: 9
Last 30 Days: 0
14 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has richard magill been climbing?










Contributions


All 1288 | Routes 171 | Areas 28 | Photos 60 | Page Improvements | Comments 248 | Posts 163 | Stars 577 | Ratings 41
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : The Marsupials : Mud Pile : Rampage (5.11b)
By: richard magill When: Apr 15, 2014

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Comments: sharp, crumbly, short, and not as steep as it looks...kind of hard to really dig this route, although the finish is cool...


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall : Magic Light (5.12b)
By: richard magill When: Aug 29, 2013

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Comments: Phenomenal to the first set of anchors. Great movement, burly, felt harder than Yak Crack at Red Rocks...


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Red Wall : Sole Survivor (5.11b)
By: richard magill When: Aug 18, 2013

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Comments: great route, love the crux. could have used a couple more bolts down low for sure...scary


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Basalt Rimrock : Northern Point : ... : Woman In The Meadow (5.11a)
By: richard magill When: Jul 18, 2013

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Comments: great line, excellent movement. steep and pumpy!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Mesa Verde Wall : Moons of Pluto (5.10d)
By: richard magill When: Jul 5, 2013

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Comments: Brilliant


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Mesa Verde Wall : Bad Moon Rising (5.11a)
By: richard magill When: Jul 5, 2013

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Comments: Great route, but sort of weirdly bolted at the top... usually, most any place you get to a roof, you clip over the top of the roof so you have a clean fall if you blow it. This one, the clip is under the roof, not too far from the previous clip. I could have easily clipped higher.

But I did the move, lunged to the big jug over the lip, and all was well. I was a bit spooked... but I still liked it. If anyone reading this ever messed up that roof move, I'd be curious if that was a clean fall... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Heavy Weather (5.12a/b)
By: richard magill When: May 29, 2013

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Comments: Ludacris like the rapper? Or ludicrous like the adjective?

I recall Pay Homage being pretty darn good not ludicrous, but Heavy Weather is awesome, great stone....


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Rope de Dope Block : Morgantown (5.10c)
By: richard magill When: May 21, 2013

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Comments: great movement, super continuous


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Picnic Lunch Wall : Free Lunch (5.10a PG13)
By: richard magill When: May 20, 2013

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Comments: Decided to just do the first pitch yesterday, as a last route of the day sort of thing just to check it out, a few thoughts:

1. This route is full of loose rock and friable flakes, and anything that comes off is likely to strafe the tourists/hikers on the misery ridge trail.

2. The climbing is sort of so-so, somewhat runout traversing.

3. Pitch is a full 35M. Ropestretcher! If you rap from the anchors with a 70M cord, the ends of your rope will be a couple inches off the deck, it barely ma... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Anarchitect (5.12d) : Photo
By: richard magill When: Nov 23, 2012

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Comments: Sometime during the previous millenium I discovered that a downward left toe cam (actually in my conception I think it was a bit more parallel with the crack) followed by a clock-like left hand move was the key to getting that move. Tzilla, who also had been having trouble at that spot, was belaying at the time and I think I saw a lightbulb go off above his head, somewhat like a cartoon character.

Great photo! Such a brilliant route....


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Anarchitect (5.12d) : Photo
By: richard magill When: Nov 20, 2012

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Comments: Who showed you that trick?


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers : Ring of Fire (5.11d)
By: richard magill When: Jul 3, 2012

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Comments: burly crux!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers : Double Trouble (5.10b)
By: richard magill When: Jul 3, 2012

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Comments: Interesting comments, and a really different route at Smith. Greasy slippery feet and nothing for the left hand, but usually a very solid right hand on the arete. There are kind of a lot of bolts for Smith, but on the other hand every clip is a bit dicey since your feet could go at any time. So frequent bolts might make sense, so you don't have too much slack out if you blow a clip...

I liked it.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Smith Rock Group : Llama Wall : Entering Relativity (5.11a)
By: richard magill When: Jun 28, 2012

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Comments: Pretty fun route! The whole thing suffers from a general sheen of near-chossiness, but everything held together and the moves were really fun. Nice long overhanging jughaul.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers : Barbecue The Pope (5.10b)
By: richard magill When: Jun 26, 2012

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Comments: whole lotta moves in this pitch...


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Phoenix : License To Bolt (5.11b)
By: richard magill When: Jun 22, 2012

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Comments: great route,lots of fun movement. move down low is definitely the hardest move by far. would probably be rated 12a if it were in Colorado...


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Red Wall : Lets Face It (5.10b)
By: richard magill When: Jun 17, 2012

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Comments: spicy, excellent


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Red Wall : Bay of Pigs (5.10d)
By: richard magill When: Jun 17, 2012

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Comments: super fun


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Shipwreck Wall : Blue Light Special (5.11a)
By: richard magill When: May 12, 2012

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Comments: tough start


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Friday the 13th (5.11+)
By: richard magill When: Apr 6, 2012

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Comments: +1 for leaving the anchor alone.

"Chopping" would be destructive and silly, the vast majority of climbers that get on this route only do the 10a pitch to the existing anchors.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : The Fifth World (5.12b/c)
By: richard magill When: Mar 20, 2012

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Comments: That is high quality Sven-speak, not too much, not too little, just right.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Harts Draw
By: richard magill When: Feb 24, 2012

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Comments: Utah has an amazing obsession with "secret areas" that aren't secrets. As is evident here, there is a apparently an army of people that are mad that this closely held "secret" of theirs is out...


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Ten-Digit Dialing (5.12c)
By: richard magill When: Jan 23, 2012

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Comments: Outstanding 12c route.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Village Idiot (5.11b)
By: richard magill When: Jan 23, 2012

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Comments: Pretty darn fun.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Supermax (5.11d)
By: richard magill When: Jan 23, 2012

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Comments: GOOD line! I would have given it 4 stars were it not for the chossband about 4 bolts up: I pulled a big piece (like 7-8 lbs) of chert out. The good news is that it is now cleaner and more solid.

Anyway, once you get up into the powerful laybacking and sidepulling, it is really excellent, very pumpy and fun. I also thought the bolting was perfect - a little spaced out but always a clip where you really need it. Got on this without knowing what it was and when I came down I said "probab... more >>


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