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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : Observatory Rock : Will Chevy Slab (5.11)
By: Rich Kelly When: Apr 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Extremely thin! You only need gear getting to the 1st bolt and between the 1st and 2nd bolt (small cams). Crux is at 3rd bolt. Awkward getting to the 1st bolt and tricky getting (5.10) past it.
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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : Observatory Rock : 99% Pure (5.9)
By: Rich Kelly When: Apr 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We did this climb last night thinking it was 5.9 (Gillett's rating) and felt that it might even be 5.9+. No way is it 5.7! Gillett indicates it is a fist crack, but I climbed it using cups and my forearms (btw I don't trust fist jams).
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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : December Wall : Mnemonic Plague (5.9+)
By: Rich Kelly When: Mar 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is called Mnemonic Plague and is rated 5.9 in Gillett's new guide.
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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : December Wall : Crown Molding (5.9)
By: Rich Kelly When: Mar 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Near the top of the right-angling crack is a shallow, thin crack corner which is the intended route. It serves up some fun 5.8 climbing leading to a ledge after 30+ feet. The anchors are on the wall behind this ledge and are not visible till you reach the ledge. Note that you can only slingshot this route with a 60m (or longer) rope.
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Location: CO : Empire : Goat Rock : Goat Goes Up, Must Come Dow... (5.10d)
By: Rich Kelly When: Jul 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route! This is #7 in the Beta photo.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : Minutia (5.8)
By: Rich Kelly When: May 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I really enjoyed the jamming on this climb but felt very uncomfortable pulling on the block just below the chains. It sounds like there was an even looser one here. Anyway, if you use less optimum holds/jams around it you can minimize the pull force on the block.
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Location: CO : Future of Climbing in the A...
By: Rich Kelly When: Apr 1, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I posted a positive comment for not restricting climbing in Arches. Easy as pie. Everyone should do it.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Lizard Rock : Entry Fee (5.8 R)
By: Rich Kelly When: Nov 28, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Instead of going straight up at the top of the tower, we followed Cameron Burns description and traversed right after standing on the big flake. It is a bit runout but easy. Once on the ledge, getting to the summit proved to be the crux (5.8) as there are no positive holds on top. Luckily there is a nice slot for a .5 Camalot that protects this move. My photo shows what I described.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bean Liquor Wall : We Bean Jammin (5.11b)
By: Rich Kelly When: Oct 20, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I am 5'11" and could not reach the sloper out to the right from the jam for the life of me. My buddy barely reached it and he is 6'0" (he stemmed the seam to the left of the jam crack with his left foot which might have made all the difference. My hamstrings did not allow me to make this stretch!). He then somehow hung on to the sloper, adjusted his feet and then crossed thru to the fin. Not your typical 11b! More like 12a? Did we miss something?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bean Liquor Wall : Bean Bagger (5.11b)
By: Rich Kelly When: Oct 20, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The last (6th) bolt is very well hidden on a ramp about 15' up and slightly right after you top out above the crux. You can't see it till you peek over the edge and you need a slightly longer draw for it so the biner is not hanging on the edge. From this bolt, you can see the 2 bolt anchor another 12' above.
I clipped the 3rd bolt from the right, and it was not trivial to do, with a huge fall potential. I did not bring any gear, but my buddy said there was a crack to the right that could off... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mine Hole Crag : Just Moo It (5.10+)
By: Rich Kelly When: Oct 20, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was overly influenced by the guidebook rating. It did seem like solid 10, but I thought maybe I should have been trusting my feet more. I do remember that I had to make quite a long reach up and left to complete the last move of the climb and that it would be quite a bit harder for shorter climbers (I am 5'11"). I bumped up the rating to 10+.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : My Way (5.9)
By: Rich Kelly When: Oct 13, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good climb. I needed to do a blind placement (.5 cam) in a crack to the left (10-12' above the pedestal above the slot) before stepping left into the crack. BTW, this climb looks like it covers similar terrain as "The Threshold". From the topo in Rossiter, it starts down and left of your route but then seems to be pretty much the same. I can only assume it must climb left of My Way since it is rated 11b (although only a section of 10 is shown on the topo).
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge : Black Lake Slabs (WI2-3)
By: Rich Kelly When: Feb 14, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: We climbed it on 2/12 and conditions were excellent. It does not seem that it has snowed there recently so the ice was exposed (not snow covered like in the photo). Snowshoes/skiis are not needed as the trail is well packed. We started at the bottom right side and it took us 4 full length pitches (WI2, WI1, WI3, WI3 - purposely picking the steepest ice we could find on p3 and p4) to reach the Spearhead bench. Very fast, easy and well packed walking off to the climbers left (East) to return t... more >>
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Slicer (5.10c)
By: Rich Kelly When: Sep 21, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Seems this climb has been rebolted and now sports 7-8 bolts making it a safe climb. The crux is pulling up to a stance above the initial overhang. There is another spot at the top of the initial wall that makes one pause. It looked like one could go up either right or left. There is a good hidden hold on the edge if one goes left.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Menses (5.10d)
By: Rich Kelly When: Sep 21, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great route requiring good technique and strength. The bulge is the crux and can be done different ways. As described in the above comment, the best holds lead you up right but then you are forced to go straight left. I found moving left to be the crux, requiring fancy foot work and hand cross overs to get your body weight under the good holds which sets you up for moving left up to the rest block. On TR I tried going straight up the bulge and while it was technically harder then ho... more >>
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Pueblo Gringos (5.10b/c)
By: Rich Kelly When: Sep 21, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think there are only 5 bolts but rest assured this climb is well protected. I thought it was a very good route, requiring good technique to minimize the strenuousness of this slightly overhanging climb. The bottom cracks seemed to offer only good side pulls, thus requiring one to shift ones body position to take advantage of the hand holds. Midway, just below the bulge, we felt was the crux. My partner found a good hold further left then the line would suggest which seemed to make the rout... more >>
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : The Shakespearean Theatre &...
By: Rich Kelly When: Jul 24, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: ur rock is not as good as Australia's rock
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Location: CO : Boulder : The Sacred Cliffs : Pebble Beach : Ray Honed (5.10c)
By: Rich Kelly When: Sep 15, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: This fine route has only 3 bolts and no anchor at the top. Bring some stoppers and .5 camalot to set belay on top. Use anchors on Catchin' Rays or Sedimental Journey to get down (4th class to either set of anchors from top of this route)
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Location: CO : Boulder : The Sacred Cliffs : Pebble Beach : The Dan and Randy Show (5.10d)
By: Rich Kelly When: Sep 15, 2001 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is listed as Sedimental Journey in Rossiter's guidebook. Rossiter also gave it an S rating which I feel is undeserved as the 2nd bolt clip is from bomber hand and foot holds. Also Rossiter's topo does not show it, but there is a 2 bolt anchor at the top of this route.
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