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Member Since: Aug 21, 2002
Last Visit: 20 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 2,005
Total Points: 276
Last Year: 14
Last 30 Days: 1
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 455 | Routes 7 | Areas | Photos 26 | Page Improvments | Comments 76 | Posts 305 | Stars 25 | Ratings 16
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Athlete's Feat (5.11a)
By: Rich Farnham When: Oct 14, 2006

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Comments: Well, I have always wondered how solid that fixed Alien on P2 was. As we climbed it today, I clipped it (and backed it up--I've never really liked it) and kept going. It didn't appear to be any different than I remembered. As my partner climbed up to it, the motion of the rope as he approached was enough to cause it to fall out of the crack. Kind of scary. I'm pretty sure I fell on this cam a few years ago, and I know I've seen others fall on it.
The cam is mutilated. The cams don't even m... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : West Crack (5.9+)
By: Rich Farnham When: Apr 17, 2006

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Comments: Rossiter's book is a bit vague on this, but I think the way most people do it is to keep going up the crack system beyond the large flake that the guy in the photo is straddling, for a few powerful moves. I agree with the folks above that find this to be the crux of the pitch. When the difficulty eases, you can angle up and right to the anchor on West Face.

In the photo there is a blocky shape on the skyline to the right of where the crack becomes a v-slot in the skyline. I angle right under... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Warning: The rappel tree on...
By: Rich Farnham When: Apr 12, 2006

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Comments: From the FHRC guidelines: "Applications to install new anchors shall generally be given favorable consideration when the new anchor replaces anchors on trees...."

This seems like a no-brainer to me. If someone is submitting an application, please post that here. If no one does, I will. Those that don't think this anchor is necessary can comment through the FHRC process.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Specter (5.10d)
By: Rich Farnham When: Aug 29, 2005

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Comments: I placed a bolted anchor about 80' up this route after talking to the first ascentionist (Dan Hare) and getting his permission and encouragement. I went and climbed this route a month or two ago (before putting in the anchor) and experienced the annoying lichen encrusted, unprotected, 5.4 bushwhack to the grassy ledge. From the grassy ledge you had to either summit the formation (i.e. several more [pitches] of 5.? bushwhacking) or do a scary 50' downclimb to the top of one of the sport climbs ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Third Buttress : Left Wing (5.10c)
By: Rich Farnham When: Jul 16, 2005

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Comments: What a great route! I happened to choose one of the hottest, most humid days of the summer to get on it, which added a little excitement, but still didn't find it to be greasy (as mentioned above). This is one of the best 5.10+ trad lines in the canyon IMHO. The fixed friend near the first crux no longer has a sling to clip, so plan on placing a red Alien or equivalent next to it. I think the red Alien / 0.5 Camalot is the only size that I placed more than one of (possibly 2 0.75 Camalots).


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Trip to the Vet (5.10)
By: Rich Farnham When: Mar 9, 2005

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Comments: For folks with big hands, the short stretch of crack that leans left about half way up the route will be the crux. The crack necks back down to a #2 Friend after being Red Camalots for a while. If #3 Friends are good hands for you, this route will feel harder than 5.10.

The crux is short though, with a decent rest after it.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Bachelor Party (5.11+)
By: Rich Farnham When: Mar 9, 2005

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Comments: A fun route that goes through all sizes of fingers and isn't any one size for very long. You could do this without an arsenal of the same size cams.

There is a short tips section at the start. It's just a boulder problem up to a good rest, and is well protected. There are a few crimpers on the face as well, but they aren't very good.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Green Slab Direct (5.9)
By: Rich Farnham When: Jan 19, 2004

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Comments: We did the whole route in two pitches with a 60m rope and about 30' of easy (5.6-5.7) simul-climbing on each pitch. I highly recommend doing it this way as each leader gets a good pitch and you don't get stuck at any hanging belays, only big ledges. Definitely a good route, but it does have its share of choss.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : King's X (5.10d)
By: Rich Farnham When: Oct 27, 2003

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Comments: What a fantastic route!! It earns 3 stars for the wild moves through the A-shaped roof, but the tenuous nature of some of the rock along the way keeps it at 2 stars.Since nobody has wanted to be the first to respond to "Crusher"'s thoughts, I'll throw this out. My feel is that if the pin got old and fell out, leaving an open crack, it wouldn't be inappropriate to put a knifeblade back in the same seam. This assumes that the hole left by the pin can't be used by other (removable) pro. Perhaps... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Gates of Eden (5.10a)
By: Rich Farnham When: Aug 8, 2003

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Comments: I lugged a #4 (Camalot) and doubles on the hand sizes, and ended up only using a single rack up to a #3. The crack in the back of the flare varies in size enough that you don't need lots of big gear. Rather than going up and way left to the anchors on Hound Dog, it's very easy to place a directional and step right to the anchors at the top of the new bolt route on the arete just right of Double Jeopardy (Yeah, the one with the bolts right next to the crack). If you runner the rout... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Athlete's Feat (5.11a)
By: Rich Farnham When: Aug 7, 2003

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Comments: CAUTION!!! There is a wasp's nest about two-thirds of the way up pitch 4. Three or four wasps started swarming around my partner as she led it. She lowered quickly until they left her alone, and then went back and down-aided to get the gear out. The nest is right in the crack and is unavoidable, but you can rappel off from the 1st, 2nd, or 3rd belay of this route, so you can still do the first few pitches. It's probably best to just wait for the wasps to vacate in the fall.As for climbing i... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Forbidden Planet (5.11b)
By: Rich Farnham When: Jul 11, 2003

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Comments: A small flake pulled off the route today in the middle of the crux. Since I couldn't firgure out the way to get through this section clean, I don't know if this was the crux hold or not. The resulting edge that was left is almost exactly the same size as the original and has only a slightly different angle, so I don't think it will change the nature or difficulty of this section too much. These moves felt a lot harder than 11a/b to me (6'5" tall). Guess I need to do some more sport climbing.... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Tongo (5.10d)
By: Rich Farnham When: Apr 25, 2003

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Comments: I, and I think most people, actually start on "After Forever" (#32 in Rossiter's book). Make a move or two up up the slab just left of the start for "Atlas Shrugged". Then pop up and left (harder for short people) to handrail left along a 10' long ledge and then mantel up at it's left side. At this point you can clip the bolt (1st pro on the pitch). Climb straight up to the fixed pin on "Tongo" and then continue to angle up and right with that route. This is a very enjoyable route!Don... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Gobbler's Grunt (5.9)
By: Rich Farnham When: Apr 22, 2003

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Comments: This is a classic for sure! I can't remember how many times I've done it. If you want to add some more great climbing, there is a way to TR the superb 5.9X Messner's Delight while on this route. At the top of the second pitch, you can easily traverse left to Messner's anchors (two old bolts, backed up with a good cam(s), if I recall correctly -- it's been a while). From there, rap or lower (60m rope mandatory, just barely reaches) to the huge ledge at the top of Gobbler's 1st pitch. TR it a... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Leftovers : Too Much Crack (5.10-)
By: Rich Farnham When: Apr 22, 2003

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Comments: It amazes me that Hubbel's book doesn't give this route a star. I decided to go check it out when I noticed that his guide has only two climbing photos in the entire Turkey Rocks/Sheep's Nose area, and they are BOTH of this climb. Not worth a star, huh?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Hair City (5.9+ R)
By: Rich Farnham When: Apr 21, 2003

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Comments: Did this today and loved it!! Another Eldo classic! While I would agree with everyone above that the runouts aren't that big a deal (the climbing is solid, you can find occasional stoppers, etc.), I would disagree with the idea of not calling this an "S" rated climb. It IS a runout route. In general, the climbing is not harder than 5.7 in the runouts, but this ain't no sport route with a piece every 6-8 feet (and I'm glad it isn't). The fact that we all feel comfortable on it is great, but ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Grand Giraffe (5.10a)
By: Rich Farnham When: Apr 21, 2003

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Comments: I would not head up to onsight this pitch without a #5 Camalot unless you are very comfortable in offwidths. It is conceivable that once you know the moves, rests, etc. you could do it comfortably without it, but (for me anyway) it is a daunting and awkward climb and having the #5 to essentially keep you on TR is reassuring. The pin comes just before the crux OW moves, and does seem solid. The #4 goes in a little below it, just in case. A few moves/grunts into the crux you ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Dr. Carl (5.10-)
By: Rich Farnham When: Apr 20, 2003

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Comments: I'd have to vote for two stars on this one. It's not the best route at the crag, but the moves are a lot of fun. It makes a great warm-up for the other classics nearby.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Ruper (5.8+)
By: Rich Farnham When: Apr 12, 2003

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Comments: A little gear beta for the wide crack on P2. At the base of the crack, the #4 fits beautifully. Looking up, I thought I might need it later so I back cleaned it after getting a slightly higher piece. I didn't place it again on the pitch. You could leave it at the bottom, but it might make for some bad rope drag. The OW opens up to a squueze chimney about half-way up. Right before opening up, there is a perfect 3.5 Camalot. With that in place you can lie-back the squeeze section (pe... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : CU Campus : Engineering Center
By: Rich Farnham When: Apr 9, 2003

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Comments: There is, in fact, a CU regulation against climbing on any of the buildings. As far as the Engineering Center is concerned, the University is well aware that people climb there and doesn't seem to care. The rule is really only enforced if somone is creating a disturbance or getting carried away on one of the other buildings (don't top out). People have been climbing here for at least thirty years, so as long as we are low key about it, there is no reason to expect problems. Just use some com... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Fat City Crack (5.10c)
By: Rich Farnham When: Apr 9, 2003

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Comments: When I did this route, I linked pitch one and two together. The rope drag is not bad if you are careful with where you put pro and use runners well. Putting the two together makes a fantastic pitch with a little of everything (a long moderate handcrack to warm-up, followed by a short thin fingercrack, a hand-traverse, some chimneying, and a roof with good pro...what more could you ask for?) I've done plenty of multi-pitch routes that didn't offer as much good climbing as this one pitch.

Also... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : C'est La Vie (5.11b)
By: Rich Farnham When: Mar 15, 2003

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Comments: At the risk of this comment field getting carried away w/ gear beta, this may be useful. Many of the above comments list small RP's (#3), etc. that looked pretty good, but no one talks about falling on them. As my partner and I tried to slove the crux, we fell onto a #5 BD copper/steel at least 15 times. It is bomber and the fall is very short if you place it where we did. There is currently one fixed pin on the route, and you can get a decent (yet, sideways) blue alien about a f... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : The Black Crack (5.9)
By: Rich Farnham When: Mar 15, 2003

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Comments: While I would agree that there are some fun moves on the climb, I can't agree with more than one star. Between the INCREDIBLE amount of broken glass at the base of the climb, the redneck-campfire scars halfway up the climb, the bird shit, and the high polish on the route, I would have to say one is enough. The moves are interesting and it makes a great warm-up if you are getting on some of the other classics at Castle Rock, but it is not the destination climb that a higher rating would imply. ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Outer Space (5.10c R)
By: Rich Farnham When: Sep 25, 2002

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Comments: A fantastic route!! Definitely three stars! As mentioned above, I could not see how it got an S rating. The climb, and the crux, eats up stoppers. Even the somewhat dubious looking fixed pin at the crux (pounded straight up into a slightly flaring crack) could be backed up with a large tcu, although I'm sure that pin has held its share of falls. As for the short bulge that can be avoided on the first pitch, I would be curious to know whether it was on the original line of ascent or not. It... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Lower Security Risk : Security Risk (5.9)
By: Rich Farnham When: Sep 23, 2002

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Comments: I combined the first and second pitch easily with a 60m rope, for a very enjoyable long pitch. I stayed near the 5.7 start, but actually went slightly right of the 5.7 section, climbing through the bulge via the 5.9-ish squeeze slot. Granted it doesn't sound very appealling, but it was a short section, well protected with a standard rack, and quite fun. Combining the pitches is highly recommended, but the average 5.8/5.9 leader will want to double up in the 1-3 Camalot sizes to do it.


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