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Member Since: Aug 21, 2002
Last Visit: 16 hours ago
Contact Rich Farnham

Point Rank: # 2,159
Total Points: 342
Last Year: 66
Last 30 Days: 1
6 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1

Where has Rich Farnham been climbing?


All 550 | Routes 8 | Areas | Photos 35 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 84 | Posts 363 | Stars 37 | Ratings 22
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Contributed Comments


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : The Pitts (5.11b)
By: Rich Farnham When: Sep 6, 2009

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Comments: Fantastic climb! The first pitch of Bell Air is a nice pitch in its own right, and gets you up to this cool crack.

I'll post a few pictures of the route, but this is a hard route to photograph. The pictures distort what the climbing is all about. This is an overhanging, right-leaning crack that involves gymnastic climbing (i.e. not a plug-and-chug steep handcrack). The movement reminded me of Death and Transfiguration, albeit much shorter.

The pro is a little strange until you are establi... more >>

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : By Gully (5.9+)
By: Rich Farnham When: Aug 26, 2009

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Comments: Traversing left to the anchor on Coffin Crack avoids a final bulge that is worth climbing. It is a few more OW moves over this bulge (a #5 C4 protected it well), and was a good finish to the route. A TR anchor can be built in the crack with gear in the 1"-3" range. It does add a bit of hassle when you are ready to clean the anchor, but the Coffin Crack anchor is only about 6' away. You can swing over to the CC anchor, rethread your rope through that, and then "lead" back out to get the... more >>

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Upper Security Risk : Get Smart (5.10d)
By: Rich Farnham When: Jul 25, 2009

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Comments: I highly recommend this route. I don't know about soft for 10d, but who knows? 10+ seems about right.

I wouldn't call the start "burly offwidthing". It felt about 5.9 to me. Could be a little harder if you had really small hands; I was able to get a few good fist jams along the way.

For newer BD sizes (C4s), I used one each of 4, 5, and 6. This is sufficient to be well protected for the start without sewing it up. There may be other gear there. I had the big stuff so I wasn't l... more >>

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Box : Stone Love (5.10d)
By: Rich Farnham When: Jul 17, 2009

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Comments: Great climb! Well worth the hike. I got a bomber green alien just after the crux. You can hang off a jug and reach back to place it to protect the second.

I belayed in the alcove Dave recommended and enjoyed being able to lean out and watch my partner come through the crux. The anchor is mostly hand-size pieces. I had two reds and a gold camalot.

I think the only doubles I used were the red alien, and the red (#1) camalot.

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Third Tier : Crack Land
By: Rich Farnham When: Jul 9, 2009

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Comments: I 'schwacked up to Crack Land yesterday to check it out. As many have said, there was an impressive amount of work done to create this area.

We made the mistake of coming up to Crack Land from the left (East) side of tier two. There was a faint trail, but it was mostly bushwhacking. Looking at pictures now it looks like you can access this area by going to the third tier on the better trail up the right side (passing Wall of the Dead), and crossing the ledge system below the third tier.

W... more >>

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Dinosaur Rock : Patience Face (5.12a)
By: Rich Farnham When: Jul 6, 2009

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Comments: Are you guys going to apply to bolt this? I was looking at it today and it looks fantastic! I'd be happy to help, if that would make the difference.

Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Organ : Organasm (5.8 C1+)
By: Rich Farnham When: Mar 28, 2009

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Comments: Fantastic route! Eventhough the descent sucks (wallowing down gullies filled with loose sand and stout bushes), I recommend topping out. P3 is great.

I brought some of the typical aid toys (offset micro stoppers, tricams, lowe balls, etc) and didn't use any of them. There were a few marginal placements, but they were all on normal gear (black alien was helpful). P3 ate up medium to large stoppers.

It is possible to rap from the top of P3. There is a fixed anchor on the ledge. I don't r... more >>

Location: CO : Eldorado State Park Accide...
By: Rich Farnham When: May 22, 2007

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Comments: Ron, in your first post you say Steve Muehlhauser "wondered if there was anything that should be done". Your recent post says that he "wants something done to prevent future accidents at this anchor". There's a big difference here. Which is it?

I do not support labeling this anchor. Unfortunately, accidents like this will happen from time to time, and it will be sad each time. But the only people that can truly prevent them are the climbers involved in the accident. I know of a similar lo... more >>

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Photo
By: Rich Farnham When: May 10, 2007

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Comments: It's The Campaigner, 5.12b. Boulder Climbs North says, "FA: Ken Duncan, 1970s or Jeff Achey, 1980, (uncertain)."

Amazingly, this route isn't on Mountain Project yet.

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Athlete's Feat (5.11a)
By: Rich Farnham When: Oct 14, 2006

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Comments: Well, I have always wondered how solid that fixed Alien on P2 was. As we climbed it today, I clipped it (and backed it up--I've never really liked it) and kept going. It didn't appear to be any different than I remembered. As my partner climbed up to it, the motion of the rope as he approached was enough to cause it to fall out of the crack. Kind of scary. I'm pretty sure I fell on this cam a few years ago, and I know I've seen others fall on it.
The cam is mutilated. The cams don't even m... more >>

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : West Crack (5.9+)
By: Rich Farnham When: Apr 17, 2006

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Comments: Rossiter's book is a bit vague on this, but I think the way most people do it is to keep going up the crack system beyond the large flake that the guy in the photo is straddling, for a few powerful moves. I agree with the folks above that find this to be the crux of the pitch. When the difficulty eases, you can angle up and right to the anchor on West Face.

In the photo there is a blocky shape on the skyline to the right of where the crack becomes a v-slot in the skyline. I angle right under... more >>

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Warning: The rappel tree on...
By: Rich Farnham When: Apr 12, 2006

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Comments: From the FHRC guidelines: "Applications to install new anchors shall generally be given favorable consideration when the new anchor replaces anchors on trees...."

This seems like a no-brainer to me. If someone is submitting an application, please post that here. If no one does, I will. Those that don't think this anchor is necessary can comment through the FHRC process.

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Specter (5.11a)
By: Rich Farnham When: Aug 29, 2005

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Comments: I placed a bolted anchor about 80' up this route after talking to the first ascentionist (Dan Hare) and getting his permission and encouragement. I went and climbed this route a month or two ago (before putting in the anchor) and experienced the annoying lichen encrusted, unprotected, 5.4 bushwhack to the grassy ledge. From the grassy ledge you had to either summit the formation (i.e. several more [pitches] of 5.? bushwhacking) or do a scary 50' downclimb to the top of one of the sport climbs ... more >>

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Third Buttress : Left Wing (5.10c)
By: Rich Farnham When: Jul 16, 2005

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Comments: What a great route! I happened to choose one of the hottest, most humid days of the summer to get on it, which added a little excitement, but still didn't find it to be greasy (as mentioned above). This is one of the best 5.10+ trad lines in the canyon IMHO. The fixed friend near the first crux no longer has a sling to clip, so plan on placing a red Alien or equivalent next to it. I think the red Alien / 0.5 Camalot is the only size that I placed more than one of (possibly 2 0.75 Camalots).

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Trip to the Vet (5.10+)
By: Rich Farnham When: Mar 9, 2005

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Comments: For folks with big hands, the short stretch of crack that leans left about half way up the route will be the crux. The crack necks back down to a #2 Friend after being Red Camalots for a while. If #3 Friends are good hands for you, this route will feel harder than 5.10.

The crux is short though, with a decent rest after it.

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Bachelor Party (5.11+)
By: Rich Farnham When: Mar 9, 2005

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Comments: A fun route that goes through all sizes of fingers and isn't any one size for very long. You could do this without an arsenal of the same size cams.

There is a short tips section at the start. It's just a boulder problem up to a good rest, and is well protected. There are a few crimpers on the face as well, but they aren't very good.

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Green Slab Direct (5.9)
By: Rich Farnham When: Jan 19, 2004

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Comments: We did the whole route in two pitches with a 60m rope and about 30' of easy (5.6-5.7) simul-climbing on each pitch. I highly recommend doing it this way as each leader gets a good pitch and you don't get stuck at any hanging belays, only big ledges. Definitely a good route, but it does have its share of choss.

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : King's X (5.10d)
By: Rich Farnham When: Oct 27, 2003

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Comments: What a fantastic route!! It earns 3 stars for the wild moves through the A-shaped roof, but the tenuous nature of some of the rock along the way keeps it at 2 stars.Since nobody has wanted to be the first to respond to "Crusher"'s thoughts, I'll throw this out. My feel is that if the pin got old and fell out, leaving an open crack, it wouldn't be inappropriate to put a knifeblade back in the same seam. This assumes that the hole left by the pin can't be used by other (removable) pro. Perhaps... more >>

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Gates of Eden (5.10a)
By: Rich Farnham When: Aug 8, 2003

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Comments: I lugged a #4 (Camalot) and doubles on the hand sizes, and ended up only using a single rack up to a #3. The crack in the back of the flare varies in size enough that you don't need lots of big gear. Rather than going up and way left to the anchors on Hound Dog, it's very easy to place a directional and step right to the anchors at the top of the new bolt route on the arete just right of Double Jeopardy (Yeah, the one with the bolts right next to the crack). If you runner the rout... more >>

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Athlete's Feat (5.11a)
By: Rich Farnham When: Aug 7, 2003

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Comments: CAUTION!!! There is a wasp's nest about two-thirds of the way up pitch 4. Three or four wasps started swarming around my partner as she led it. She lowered quickly until they left her alone, and then went back and down-aided to get the gear out. The nest is right in the crack and is unavoidable, but you can rappel off from the 1st, 2nd, or 3rd belay of this route, so you can still do the first few pitches. It's probably best to just wait for the wasps to vacate in the fall.As for climbing i... more >>

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Forbidden Planet (5.11b)
By: Rich Farnham When: Jul 11, 2003

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Comments: A small flake pulled off the route today in the middle of the crux. Since I couldn't firgure out the way to get through this section clean, I don't know if this was the crux hold or not. The resulting edge that was left is almost exactly the same size as the original and has only a slightly different angle, so I don't think it will change the nature or difficulty of this section too much. These moves felt a lot harder than 11a/b to me (6'5" tall). Guess I need to do some more sport climbing.... more >>

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Tongo (5.11a)
By: Rich Farnham When: Apr 25, 2003

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Comments: I, and I think most people, actually start on "After Forever" (#32 in Rossiter's book). Make a move or two up up the slab just left of the start for "Atlas Shrugged". Then pop up and left (harder for short people) to handrail left along a 10' long ledge and then mantel up at it's left side. At this point you can clip the bolt (1st pro on the pitch). Climb straight up to the fixed pin on "Tongo" and then continue to angle up and right with that route. This is a very enjoyable route!Don... more >>

Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Gobbler's Grunt (5.9)
By: Rich Farnham When: Apr 22, 2003

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Comments: This is a classic for sure! I can't remember how many times I've done it. If you want to add some more great climbing, there is a way to TR the superb 5.9X Messner's Delight while on this route. At the top of the second pitch, you can easily traverse left to Messner's anchors (two old bolts, backed up with a good cam(s), if I recall correctly -- it's been a while). From there, rap or lower (60m rope mandatory, just barely reaches) to the huge ledge at the top of Gobbler's 1st pitch. TR it a... more >>

Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Leftovers : Too Much Crack (5.10-)
By: Rich Farnham When: Apr 22, 2003

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Comments: It amazes me that Hubbel's book doesn't give this route a star. I decided to go check it out when I noticed that his guide has only two climbing photos in the entire Turkey Rocks/Sheep's Nose area, and they are BOTH of this climb. Not worth a star, huh?

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Hair City (5.9+ R)
By: Rich Farnham When: Apr 21, 2003

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Comments: Did this today and loved it!! Another Eldo classic! While I would agree with everyone above that the runouts aren't that big a deal (the climbing is solid, you can find occasional stoppers, etc.), I would disagree with the idea of not calling this an "S" rated climb. It IS a runout route. In general, the climbing is not harder than 5.7 in the runouts, but this ain't no sport route with a piece every 6-8 feet (and I'm glad it isn't). The fact that we all feel comfortable on it is great, but ... more >>

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