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Member Since: Aug 21, 2002
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
Contact Rich Farnham

Point Rank: # 2,181
Total Points: 343
Last Year: 64
Last 30 Days: 1
6 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Rich Farnham been climbing?










Contributions


All 551 | Routes 8 | Areas | Photos 35 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 85 | Posts 363 | Stars 37 | Ratings 22
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : The Route That Dan Missed (5.10 X)
By: Rich Farnham When: Aug 22, 2011

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Comments: I'm trying to figure out where this route goes. I posted a picture above of this region of the wall, that I'm hoping someone will copy and draw a line on. The comments above clarify that Rossiter (and Bob D) got the info wrong about the two bolts, but I'm wondering if they at least have the route drawn in the right place.

Does it go up the right side of the arete on slopers, or is it on the steeper ground left of the arete?


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Nitrogen Narcosis (5.11a) : Photo
By: Rich Farnham When: Jul 26, 2011

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Comments: It might not be photoshopped. Check out this other TR photo of the same route. It looks like there is some sort of lip on the left side of the crack that can hide the rope.

Great shot! The colors are incredible.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Beetle Bailey (5.10)
By: Rich Farnham When: Jun 25, 2011

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Comments: Some fun climbing on a nice slab of rock. Strangely bolted -- typical Boulder Canyon always-on-toprope style for the middle section, with a random runout or two at the start and finish.

My 60m rope didn't get me all the way back to the anchor on Bailey's overhang. I came up about 5' short. I ended up on a ledge that I was comfortable down-soloing the very easy, and not exposed moves to the anchor, but be careful. Strangely, all 60s are not the same length. Don't assume yours will reach.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Pass Fail Option (5.11)
By: Rich Farnham When: Jun 25, 2011

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Comments: This roof has some great moves and a wild lip.

A few comments about gear and rope drag. Linking into this straight out of Final Exam is a great pitch, but the rope drag can be problematic. Once onto the slab after Final Exam, set a few pieces and drop a loop of rope to your belayer. Then you can go back on belay without the rope running through all of the gear on Final Exam to avoid that drag. Your rope will only be going through the pieces you placed on the slab.

A green Alien is the be... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock
By: Rich Farnham When: Jun 21, 2011

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Comments: We replaced the tyrol to Eagle Rock today. Thanks to Amy for her help, and her patience while I bushwhacked my way down from the Cob Rock tyrol (that'll teach me to get started on this earlier next year...). Thanks also to the many folks who donated static rope for tyrol maintenance in the Canyon. This one would be particularly hard with dynamic ropes.

Strangely, whoever took this down in the past actually removed the bolts and hangers as well. Who is doing this? We might have to go to glu... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock
By: Rich Farnham When: Jun 10, 2011

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Comments: We replaced the tyrol tonight (thanks for the help Kevin V.!). The old rope junk-show of an anchor with it's multiple core-shots from rubbing on the rock has been upgraded with chain to help it last a bit longer.

There are two strands of static that should keep you well out of the creek. The rope was donated by fellow MP'ers. Thanks everyone!

Since the area description above doesn't mention it, the tyrol is directly below the Vampire. Angle up and right across the scree field. As you get ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab
By: Rich Farnham When: Jun 10, 2011

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Comments: We replaced the tyrol tonight (thanks for the help Kevin V.!). The old rope junk-show of an anchor with its multiple core-shots from rubbing on the rock has been upgraded with chain to help it last a bit longer.

There are two strands of static that should keep you well out of the creek. The rope was donated by fellow MP'ers. Thanks, everyone!

Since the area description above doesn't mention it, the tyrol for Black Widow is actually a little downstream, directly below the Vampire. Angle up ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty
By: Rich Farnham When: Jun 6, 2011

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Comments: More Recent Condition Report

As of this evening, the Sleeping Beauty tyrol is in (this is the one at the west end of the Animal World/Boulderado parking). 2 strands of static line that should keep us out of the quickly rising water when the creek goes over the top of Barker Dam tomorrow or the next day. Thanks to all the MP folks that donated static line when I put out the call a few weeks back. This is another tyrol done with that rope. I still have a few more to hit, but w... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower
By: Rich Farnham When: May 4, 2011

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Comments: The tyrol was installed this past weekend (May 2011), and has two independent strands of new static line. Should be good for a few years as long as no one cuts it down.

Thanks to everyone who donated rope for the Boulder Canyon tyrols!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock
By: Rich Farnham When: May 4, 2011

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Comments: The tyrol was installed this weekend (who cuts these things down?). The tree is showing signs of wear, so we placed it a little higher to spread the wear out. If people feel the line is too high on the North side to get on easily, I can add a footloop.

Thanks to everyone who donated static rope for the Boulder Canyon tyrols!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif
By: Rich Farnham When: May 4, 2011

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Comments: The tyrol rope was getting pretty scary (multiple coreshots). It has been replaced with two strands of static rope that should be good for a couple more years.

Thanks to everyone who donated rope for the Boulder Canyon tyrols!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : West Crack (5.3) : Photo
By: Rich Farnham When: Apr 15, 2011

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Comments: I suspect it's the difference between working load and breaking strength. The 1900 lbf number for the cable is a little higher than the working load I found for 5/16" cable (1700 lbf). I couldn't easily find any specs about strength reduction in a lap splice with cable clips, but terminal ends are 80-90% efficient. Lap splices are probably similar. Working load is typically 20-25% of breaking strength, so an ultimate strength is closer to 8500 lbf for the cable (without reduction for connect... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Long Walk Rock : Free the Ostriches (5.9+)
By: Rich Farnham When: Jan 30, 2011

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Comments: Bring tape. You pull pretty hard on a few fist-jams in some pretty coarse rock. Feels more like Vedauwoo than Boulder Canyon granite. A fun climb if you don't mind hiking a long way to do 30' routes.

Single set of BD #1-#6 protects it well. Walk the 6 with you -- it's nice to have for a constriction in the upper section of the crack.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress : Reveille (5.10d)
By: Rich Farnham When: Jan 30, 2011

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Comments: The trad part of this pitch has some great rests, unlike most of the climbs on this section of the wall. Some of the placements are a little funky, but there's more gear than appears from the ground. I was able to sew it up.

Great pitch! Unusual moves through the bolted section, with some great climbing on the steep finish. Strenuous to actually clip the anchor.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome
By: Rich Farnham When: Nov 4, 2010

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Comments: Good news - the fire didn't burn the area immediately around the Dome or the Elephant Buttresses, and they aren't included in the fire closure.

OSMP Dome Fire Closure Map

I haven't been out to see if the tape Phil described is down yet, but suspect it will be soon.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : First Tier : The Anti-Sport (5.10+)
By: Rich Farnham When: Aug 29, 2010

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Comments: Really fun moves through the roof and over the lip -- more solid than I expected. I had the advantage of my partner having placed all the gear at the crux already as we sorted this thing out, so I got to cruise right through. Some of the stances seemed a little pumpy to place pro from. I'll definitely be back to clean this up.

I highly recommend the stopper at the lip (#12 BD). It didn't really get in the way of my hand jam over the lip, and the crack is a real rope-eater and quite sh... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : First Tier : The Sport Climber's Demise (5.10+)
By: Rich Farnham When: Aug 29, 2010

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Comments: I really enjoyed this climb as well and think Tony said it well -- it's just a little too solid for 5.11. That being said, I think it is a little tricky as an onsight. The easiest way through the roof is not the most obvious. If you just charge straight through the roof, maybe it is 5.11.

I was glad to have (2) #3 Camalots, and at least (1) #4. I think singles on everything else worked fine.

Unfortunately, the anchor is way off to the right, so getting a TR on this would be a b... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Athlete's Feat (5.11a) : Photo
By: Rich Farnham When: Aug 20, 2010

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Comments: 1 and 2 link pretty easily. It's counter-intuitive, but clip the anchor with a short runner as you go by. It doesn't really add to the drag, but positions the rope well for the second pitch.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Bosch Blanket Bingo (5.9)
By: Rich Farnham When: Jun 2, 2010

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Comments: This didn't really feel like a route. It felt more like part of the Riviera grid-bolt system. Here's a line of bolts; do whatever moves seem interesting to you in the vicinity of these bolts. None of them really form a distinct route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Birthday Suit (5.10a)
By: Rich Farnham When: Jun 2, 2010

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Comments: I found that a few Aliens (green and yellow is what I used) kept this a little safer. There is a tricky move after the first bolt before you can get the 2" cam in. The yellow Alien protected this nicely. The mantle up to the second bolt is pretty tricky. The climbing after this is interesting enough, but the bolt job is pretty poor. They're all good bolts, and they're plenty close, but their placement is pretty random.

I didn't notice the manufactured holds, but I wasn't looking that close... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : The Black Crack (5.9+)
By: Rich Farnham When: Jun 2, 2010

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Comments: I replaced the broken pin today. The old one had seen plenty of falls, and I wanted to get it out before the other eye cracked. There is a new angle in the same place. It's bomber, so fall away!

When I took the pin out, I did evaluate whether it could just become a placement for clean gear. Without getting into the details, it is not a viable spot for anything but a pin, so I put a pin back in.

A local climber (not me) has put a ton of work into cleaning up this area. He cleaned out all... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : Gorilla's Delight (5.9+)
By: Rich Farnham When: Mar 13, 2010

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Comments: This climb is yet another example of 5.9+ being way harder than 10a!

Jokes aside, I think the grade is appropriate at 9+, but all of the cruxes are insecure and therefore scary. The gear is good enough, but the climb is hard enough to read that you end up filling up key holds with pro if you aren't careful/lucky (this refers to the King Kong start as well).

The fixed nut is still in place at the final crux, which definitely makes this thing easier. It's probably only a #3 BD, but it pr... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Funeral March (5.9)
By: Rich Farnham When: Jan 12, 2010

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Comments: The hardest climbing (the first 10-15' of the wide crack) is well protected with #6 Camalots (C4, i.e. #5 old-style), but they get pretty tipped out higher up. The upper half of the climb has a flake in the back that I placed some Aliens behind. It didn't feel particularly loose to me (compared to the one in the back at the start of the climb), but I also wasn't positive that the gear would have held a fall.

Jay's recommedation of 2 #6s and a blue Big Bro worked well for me.... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Ariana (5.12a)
By: Rich Farnham When: Dec 30, 2009

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Comments: Gillett's book implies that the bolts on the first pitch are manky and should be replaced. Can anyone comment on whether this has happened yet (book came out in 2001).


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Strawberry Short Cake (5.10c)
By: Rich Farnham When: Oct 4, 2009

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Comments: Ratings are a funny thing. After reading all this, I expected a harder route than it was. I'll vote for 10d, because the holds at the crux are pretty small and the jams are tenuous; but the crux is also pretty short. You can get a good rest before the roof, and solid gear under and just above the roof. The crux is the next body length or two of climbing. The next piece I got was a #3 Camalot, and things got much easier after that. Once through the crux you get to enjoy abou... more >>


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