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Member Since: Aug 21, 2002
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 2,059
Total Points: 276
Last Year: 14
Last 30 Days: 0
6 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Rich Farnham been climbing?










Contributions


All 461 | Routes 7 | Areas | Photos 26 | Page Improvements | Comments 76 | Posts 311 | Stars 25 | Ratings 16
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : West Crack (5.2) : Photo
By: Rich Farnham When: Apr 15, 2011

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Comments: I suspect it's the difference between working load and breaking strength. The 1900 lbf number for the cable is a little higher than the working load I found for 5/16" cable (1700 lbf). I couldn't easily find any specs about strength reduction in a lap splice with cable clips, but terminal ends are 80-90% efficient. Lap splices are probably similar. Working load is typically 20-25% of breaking strength, so an ultimate strength is closer to 8500 lbf for the cable (without reduction for connect... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Long Walk Rock : Free the Ostriches (5.9+)
By: Rich Farnham When: Jan 30, 2011

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Comments: Bring tape. You pull pretty hard on a few fist-jams in some pretty coarse rock. Feels more like Vedauwoo than Boulder Canyon granite. A fun climb if you don't mind hiking a long way to do 30' routes.

Single set of BD #1-#6 protects it well. Walk the 6 with you -- it's nice to have for a constriction in the upper section of the crack.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress : Reveille (5.10d)
By: Rich Farnham When: Jan 30, 2011

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Comments: The trad part of this pitch has some great rests, unlike most of the climbs on this section of the wall. Some of the placements are a little funky, but there's more gear than appears from the ground. I was able to sew it up.

Great pitch! Unusual moves through the bolted section, with some great climbing on the steep finish. Strenuous to actually clip the anchor.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome
By: Rich Farnham When: Nov 4, 2010

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Comments: Good news - the fire didn't burn the area immediately around the Dome or the Elephant Buttresses, and they aren't included in the fire closure.

OSMP Dome Fire Closure Map

I haven't been out to see if the tape Phil described is down yet, but suspect it will be soon.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : First Tier : The Anti-Sport (5.10+)
By: Rich Farnham When: Aug 29, 2010

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Comments: Really fun moves through the roof and over the lip -- more solid than I expected. I had the advantage of my partner having placed all the gear at the crux already as we sorted this thing out, so I got to cruise right through. Some of the stances seemed a little pumpy to place pro from. I'll definitely be back to clean this up.

I highly recommend the stopper at the lip (#12 BD). It didn't really get in the way of my hand jam over the lip, and the crack is a real rope-eater and quite sh... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : First Tier : The Sport Climber's Demise (5.10+)
By: Rich Farnham When: Aug 29, 2010

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Comments: I really enjoyed this climb as well and think Tony said it well -- it's just a little too solid for 5.11. That being said, I think it is a little tricky as an onsight. The easiest way through the roof is not the most obvious. If you just charge straight through the roof, maybe it is 5.11.

I was glad to have (2) #3 Camalots, and at least (1) #4. I think singles on everything else worked fine.

Unfortunately, the anchor is way off to the right, so getting a TR on this would be a b... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Athlete's Feat (5.11a) : Photo
By: Rich Farnham When: Aug 20, 2010

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Comments: 1 and 2 link pretty easily. It's counter-intuitive, but clip the anchor with a short runner as you go by. It doesn't really add to the drag, but positions the rope well for the second pitch.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Bosch Blanket Bingo (5.9)
By: Rich Farnham When: Jun 2, 2010

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Comments: This didn't really feel like a route. It felt more like part of the Riviera grid-bolt system. Here's a line of bolts; do whatever moves seem interesting to you in the vicinity of these bolts. None of them really form a distinct route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Birthday Suit (5.10a)
By: Rich Farnham When: Jun 2, 2010

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Comments: I found that a few Aliens (green and yellow is what I used) kept this a little safer. There is a tricky move after the first bolt before you can get the 2" cam in. The yellow Alien protected this nicely. The mantle up to the second bolt is pretty tricky. The climbing after this is interesting enough, but the bolt job is pretty poor. They're all good bolts, and they're plenty close, but their placement is pretty random.

I didn't notice the manufactured holds, but I wasn't looking that close... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : The Black Crack (5.9)
By: Rich Farnham When: Jun 2, 2010

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Comments: I replaced the broken pin today. The old one had seen plenty of falls, and I wanted to get it out before the other eye cracked. There is a new angle in the same place. It's bomber, so fall away!

When I took the pin out, I did evaluate whether it could just become a placement for clean gear. Without getting into the details, it is not a viable spot for anything but a pin, so I put a pin back in.

A local climber (not me) has put a ton of work into cleaning up this area. He cleaned out all... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : Gorilla's Delight (5.9+)
By: Rich Farnham When: Mar 13, 2010

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Comments: This climb is yet another example of 5.9+ being way harder than 10a!

Jokes aside, I think the grade is appropriate at 9+, but all of the cruxes are insecure and therefore scary. The gear is good enough, but the climb is hard enough to read that you end up filling up key holds with pro if you aren't careful/lucky (this refers to the King Kong start as well).

The fixed nut is still in place at the final crux, which definitely makes this thing easier. It's probably only a #3 BD, but it pr... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Funeral March (5.9)
By: Rich Farnham When: Jan 12, 2010

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Comments: The hardest climbing (the first 10-15' of the wide crack) is well protected with #6 Camalots (C4, i.e. #5 old-style), but they get pretty tipped out higher up. The upper half of the climb has a flake in the back that I placed some Aliens behind. It didn't feel particularly loose to me (compared to the one in the back at the start of the climb), but I also wasn't positive that the gear would have held a fall.

Jay's recommedation of 2 #6s and a blue Big Bro worked well for me.... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Ariana (5.12a)
By: Rich Farnham When: Dec 30, 2009

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Comments: Gillett's book implies that the bolts on the first pitch are manky and should be replaced. Can anyone comment on whether this has happened yet (book came out in 2001).


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Strawberry Short Cake (5.10)
By: Rich Farnham When: Oct 4, 2009

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Comments: Ratings are a funny thing. After reading all this, I expected a harder route than it was. I'll vote for 10d, because the holds at the crux are pretty small and the jams are tenuous; but the crux is also pretty short. You can get a good rest before the roof, and solid gear under and just above the roof. The crux is the next body length or two of climbing. The next piece I got was a #3 Camalot, and things got much easier after that. Once through the crux you get to enjoy abou... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : The Gill Crack (5.12a)
By: Rich Farnham When: Sep 6, 2009

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Comments: I ripped a cam in a fall off this yesterday. I had an orange Metolius TCU in the last finger lock before the final "jug". The pin scar nature of this placement (narrow, deep crack) didn't really let the cam orient properly, and I think it levered out as I fell onto it.

I was really pumped and trying to make the final move over to Black Crack when I fell. A bomber #7 BD stopper ~4 feet below the TCU kept me off the ground (barely). When I went back up, the same cam placed much better... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : The Pitts (5.11b)
By: Rich Farnham When: Sep 6, 2009

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Comments: Fantastic climb! The first pitch of Bell Air is a nice pitch in its own right, and gets you up to this cool crack.

I'll post a few pictures of the route, but this is a hard route to photograph. The pictures distort what the climbing is all about. This is an overhanging, right-leaning crack that involves gymnastic climbing (i.e. not a plug-and-chug steep handcrack). The movement reminded me of Death and Transfiguration, albeit much shorter.

The pro is a little strange until you are establi... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : By Gully (5.9+)
By: Rich Farnham When: Aug 26, 2009

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Comments: Traversing left to the anchor on Coffin Crack avoids a final bulge that is worth climbing. It is a few more OW moves over this bulge (a #5 C4 protected it well), and was a good finish to the route. A TR anchor can be built in the crack with gear in the 1"-3" range. It does add a bit of hassle when you are ready to clean the anchor, but the Coffin Crack anchor is only about 6' away. You can swing over to the CC anchor, rethread your rope through that, and then "lead" back out to get the... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Upper Security Risk : Get Smart (5.10d)
By: Rich Farnham When: Jul 25, 2009

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Comments: I highly recommend this route. I don't know about soft for 10d, but who knows? 10+ seems about right.

I wouldn't call the start "burly offwidthing". It felt about 5.9 to me. Could be a little harder if you had really small hands; I was able to get a few good fist jams along the way.

For newer BD sizes (C4s), I used one each of 4, 5, and 6. This is sufficient to be well protected for the start without sewing it up. There may be other gear there. I had the big stuff so I wasn't l... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Box : Stone Love (5.10d)
By: Rich Farnham When: Jul 17, 2009

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Comments: Great climb! Well worth the hike. I got a bomber green alien just after the crux. You can hang off a jug and reach back to place it to protect the second.

I belayed in the alcove Dave recommended and enjoyed being able to lean out and watch my partner come through the crux. The anchor is mostly hand-size pieces. I had two reds and a gold camalot.

I think the only doubles I used were the red alien, and the red (#1) camalot.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Third Tier : Crack Land
By: Rich Farnham When: Jul 9, 2009

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Comments: I 'schwacked up to Crack Land yesterday to check it out. As many have said, there was an impressive amount of work done to create this area.

We made the mistake of coming up to Crack Land from the left (East) side of tier two. There was a faint trail, but it was mostly bushwhacking. Looking at pictures now it looks like you can access this area by going to the third tier on the better trail up the right side (passing Wall of the Dead), and crossing the ledge system below the third tier.

W... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Dinosaur Rock : Patience Face (5.12a)
By: Rich Farnham When: Jul 6, 2009

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Comments: Are you guys going to apply to bolt this? I was looking at it today and it looks fantastic! I'd be happy to help, if that would make the difference.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Organ : Organasm (5.8 C2)
By: Rich Farnham When: Mar 28, 2009

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Comments: Fantastic route! Eventhough the descent sucks (wallowing down gullies filled with loose sand and stout bushes), I recommend topping out. P3 is great.

I brought some of the typical aid toys (offset micro stoppers, tricams, lowe balls, etc) and didn't use any of them. There were a few marginal placements, but they were all on normal gear (black alien was helpful). P3 ate up medium to large stoppers.

It is possible to rap from the top of P3. There is a fixed anchor on the ledge. I don't r... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock : Chupacabra (5.10+)
By: Rich Farnham When: Jul 16, 2008

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Comments: I have a hard time believing that a route this good had never been climbed, and would concede the FA to someone else if it has already been done. The terrain below the roof had seen some traffic. As mentioned above, the rest below the roof is used by the adjacent climb. Also it looked like someone had recently dislodged a loose block from the bottom of the right leaning section. All of this could easily be done from a toprope on Good, Bad, etc's anchor.

However, the finger crack above the r... more >>


Location: CO : Eldorado State Park Accide...
By: Rich Farnham When: May 22, 2007

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Comments: Ron, in your first post you say Steve Muehlhauser "wondered if there was anything that should be done". Your recent post says that he "wants something done to prevent future accidents at this anchor". There's a big difference here. Which is it?

I do not support labeling this anchor. Unfortunately, accidents like this will happen from time to time, and it will be sad each time. But the only people that can truly prevent them are the climbers involved in the accident. I know of a similar lo... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Photo
By: Rich Farnham When: May 10, 2007

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Comments: It's The Campaigner, 5.12b. Boulder Climbs North says, "FA: Ken Duncan, 1970s or Jeff Achey, 1980, (uncertain)."

Amazingly, this route isn't on Mountain Project yet.


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