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Member Since: Aug 21, 2002
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
Contact Rich Farnham

Point Rank: # 2,368
Total Points: 298
Last Year: 21
Last 30 Days: 0
6 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Rich Farnham been climbing?










Contributions


All 531 | Routes 7 | Areas | Photos 29 | Page Improvements | Comments 83 | Posts 354 | Stars 36 | Ratings 22
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park
By: Rich Farnham When: May 26, 2016

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Comments: Barker Reservoir is almost full and will spill over the dam any day now. The crossing at the hand line gets pretty adventurous when the creek is full. There is now a tyrol a little farther downstream. It's probably 30 yards downstream and just around the corner from the handline.

It was set in a spot that appeared to have been used before (tat in the trees). The span is pretty long, so the take off spots are fairly high in the trees. Unfortunately, there aren't a lot of branches on one of the t... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Bachelor Party (5.11+)
By: Rich Farnham When: Mar 11, 2016

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Comments: How would people feel about relocating the anchor on this route?

It's hard to tell from the photos on this site, but the anchor is set way back in a recess, causing the rope to disappear deep into the crack as you lower or TR it. It seems that rather than have the rope in the crack, many people are running it over the edge of the ledge which is starting to create deep grooves in the rock.

I think we could move the anchors to wall left of the crack, which would keep the rope out on the main ... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Escalante Canyon : Cabin Wall : Pure Pressure (submitted as... (5.14-)
By: Rich Farnham When: Dec 15, 2015

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Comments: Are the bolts coming out? They don't seem to fit the style of the area, and with the first ascent being done on gear....


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Circus Wall : Clowns Eat Kids (5.11c)
By: Rich Farnham When: Sep 14, 2015

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Comments: This route had great movement on cool features. I'd have given it 4 stars if it were longer.

We all thought it seemed a little soft for 11c, but shorter folks will definitely have to work a little harder on some of the reaches in the steep section. The rock was featured enough that everyone seemed to be able to find something to work with (higher feet, etc.), so it wasn't a huge problem for shorter people.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Rush (5.11b)
By: Rich Farnham When: Aug 18, 2015

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Comments: I enjoyed this route, despite getting a little beat up. I didn't find the right side option that Ivan describes, so I fought my way up the rounded crack. Felt every bit of 11b to me. This portion is well-protected, which is appreciated for the very insecure moves.

I was uncomfortable with the move between the 1st and 2nd bolts. The moves aren't that hard, but you're stemming out to a quartz band, and it's hard to trust the feet. There's potential to hit the ledge below if you blow it. I got a ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Take the Power Back (5.9-)
By: Rich Farnham When: Aug 18, 2015

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Comments: Some nice climbing on this one. We started at the very bottom of the wall, below the slab that you can traverse out on to from the right. It adds a 5.8/5.9 bulge that is worth doing, if a bit licheny.

I didn't read this description first, so I wasn't sure which way to go when I got to the final bulge and faced the two options George described above. The left option (apparently "Crack in the Wall") looked more straightforward, so I started that way, but as I started to pull the bulge, I realized... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Witches' Tower : War is Love (5.11b/c)
By: Rich Farnham When: Jun 23, 2015

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Comments: I thought this was a pretty good route but was a little confused between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Does the line continue straight up, or angle left to share a few moves with Panic Attack (AKA BOB...Bombs Over Baghdad))? I tried going straight up but couldn't find a way past the blank spot that felt 11 b/c. Angling left seemed reasonable for the grade but seemed a bit off line.

As Slim said, be careful with the clips. The business is right off the ground on this route. I think blowing the 2nd clip could put you on the starting ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Broken Rock : Crack Up (5.9+)
By: Rich Farnham When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: Pretty physical for 5.9...I guess maybe "Castle Rock 5.9" (think The Black Crack). I think folks with small hands will find this to be significantly harder. I thought it was a decent pitch if you're looking for something different to do in the area.

At the top, there are now nearby anchors on White Trash, so you don't have to choose one of the options Tony describes.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Psycho Pigeon (5.11a)
By: Rich Farnham When: Nov 10, 2014

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Comments: I was delighted to discover that the belay at the end of the first pitch above the upper ramp (pitch 1 or 4 depending on where you start counting) has modern bolts. The fixed hardware database doesn't seem to have this info, and I don't know when this was rebolted, but there weren't any 1/4" bolts or buttonheads as described above by others.

The position of this route is fantastic! Really airy!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon
By: Rich Farnham When: Jul 7, 2014

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Comments: CAUTION: concerns have been raised about the tyrol.

Several people commented that the tyrol to Avalon was sagging again. Having tightened it recently, and looked at the possible causes at the time, I was concerned that the north side boulder anchor was moving down the hill.

I went out tonight, and the tyrol appeared unchanged from when I tightened it a month or so ago. The rock does not appear to have moved (no visible scratches between the boulders, etc.), the knots have not slippe... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : The Umph Slot (5.10+) : Photo
By: Rich Farnham When: Jan 29, 2014

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Comments: Rob - the exit moves I can handle; however, that constriction near the start is another matter.
Let me know if you want to give this thing a go. I haven't been up there in a few years.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : By Gully (5.9+)
By: Rich Farnham When: Oct 26, 2013

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Comments: Overheard on this route today (and no, it wasn't me):

Leader (just through the crux, hangover kicking in): "This was a REALLY bad idea."

Belayer/girlfriend: "If you puke on me, I'm dumping you!"

...ten feet higher, he puked...luckily missing his belayer.

Classic!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : The Devil (5.11b/c)
By: Rich Farnham When: Aug 26, 2013

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Comments: The first bolt on this route spins it its hole and needs to be replaced. I noticed the hanger was spinning, so I went up with my wrench to tighten the nut, but the nut is fused to the stud and the whole assembly turns in the hole.

The bolt is fairly snug in the hole and might hold a short fall, but I wouldn't want to test it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : First Tier : ... : Photo
By: Rich Farnham When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: I don't have a guidebook handy, but I don't think this is a picture of Slayer. I think it's Marquis De Sade.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif
By: Rich Farnham When: May 29, 2013

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Comments: Well, I guess "a couple more years" was technically accurate. Only 2 years before someone cut this down. Wish I knew who was cutting these down. The ropes were still in great shape.

I'll try to get out there soon to add new ropes, which will be a pain in the a$$ since the creek is already raging.


Location: CA : High Sierra : 01 - The Sawtooth Ridge : Incredible Hulk : Beeline (5.10-)
By: Rich Farnham When: Dec 6, 2011

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Comments: Trip Report on Supertopo from when Rob Dillon and I went up A-line, and possibly did the FA of the P5 huge stemming corner and some great 5.9-5.10 cracks above (July 2010). Info on Beeline and A-line at the time showed that both routes broke onto the slab right of of the P5 corner, and moved up easier terrain to the shoulder where it merges with the descent.

As Rob says in the TR, it gets hard to describe at th... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Photo
By: Rich Farnham When: Oct 1, 2011

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Comments: Allen, do you know what route, or at least what formation, this is?

Great picture, thanks for posting it.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Center Route (5.9+) : Photo
By: Rich Farnham When: Sep 25, 2011

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Comments: I like the blood running down his leg...does that disqualify him from the "good form" comment?


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Cupcake (5.10b V1)
By: Rich Farnham When: Sep 18, 2011

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Comments: Did this today after wandering by for years saying "someday I need to do that thing". Really fun climb! We did it as a lead, since we had gear with us and didn't have crash pads.

A word of caution to those intending to lead it. The anchor sucks. It is 2 buttonheads about 4" apart, and there aren't really any gear options (the crack pinches off after you clear the lip). There is what appeared to be a 3/8" wedge-bolt stud, without a hanger, so another option would be to bring a hanger and a... more >>


Location: CO : Empire : Ra : Training Day (5.11a)
By: Rich Farnham When: Aug 27, 2011

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Comments: I found the first pitch to be a tough warm-up. The crux is short, but it is pretty steep and I found it hard to decipher. Felt 11b on the onsight attempt -- maybe easier once you know what to do, since it's so short.

Great route though. The third pitch was good, but I enjoyed the Rohan Face more. If you do the final pitch of Training Day first, and use the "bailout bolt" to go left to the rap anchor at the top of Rohan Face, you can lower back to the belay with your partner. Then once th... more >>


Location: CO : Empire : Ra : Empire of the Air (5.11a)
By: Rich Farnham When: Aug 27, 2011

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Comments: What's up with the homemade hangers on this route? The first pitch (and the rest of the crag) is shiny Fixe gear. But pitch 2 and 3 of this route is steel angle-stock that has been chopped into hangers. Also, all of the anchors are open cold-shuts. WTF? They are the biggest cold-shuts I've ever seen (1/2"), so I'm sure they're strong enough, but they don't work well for anchors. Luckily, the bolts for the shuts and the homemade hangers are wedge bolts, so we can upgrade these to better har... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : ... : Photo
By: Rich Farnham When: Aug 22, 2011

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Comments: To clarify, this photo does show the North Face, but the climber is on Freak on a Leash.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : The Route That Dan Missed (5.10 X)
By: Rich Farnham When: Aug 22, 2011

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Comments: I'm trying to figure out where this route goes. I posted a picture above of this region of the wall, that I'm hoping someone will copy and draw a line on. The comments above clarify that Rossiter (and Bob D) got the info wrong about the two bolts, but I'm wondering if they at least have the route drawn in the right place.

Does it go up the right side of the arete on slopers, or is it on the steeper ground left of the arete?


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Nitrogen Narcosis (5.11a) : Photo
By: Rich Farnham When: Jul 26, 2011

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Comments: It might not be photoshopped. Check out this other TR photo of the same route. It looks like there is some sort of lip on the left side of the crack that can hide the rope.

Great shot! The colors are incredible.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Beetle Bailey (5.10)
By: Rich Farnham When: Jun 25, 2011

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Comments: Some fun climbing on a nice slab of rock. Strangely bolted -- typical Boulder Canyon always-on-toprope style for the middle section, with a random runout or two at the start and finish.

My 60m rope didn't get me all the way back to the anchor on Bailey's overhang. I came up about 5' short. I ended up on a ledge that I was comfortable down-soloing the very easy, and not exposed moves to the anchor, but be careful. Strangely, all 60s are not the same length. Don't assume yours will reach.


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