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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Easter Rock : West Face [Easter Rock] (5.6 R)
By: Rich F. When: Apr 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I also was able to place a #1 and a #2 in deep holes on the West face right below the ledge which would have probably held a fall. Anchors on the top are still good (thanks, Stewart!), and there are two bolts (with hangers) on the north side near the top which can be used as directionals for top ropes. The highest bolt made a very good directional for toproping the North Ridge route, and the lower bolt was a good directional for toproping the northwest corner.
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Coat of Arms Corner and The... : Crack Sweat (5.9)
By: Rich F. When: Apr 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought "Crack Sweat" was a crack climb -- at least we climbed the crack all the way to the top, with some decent jams. We used the bulging face on either side of the crack for feet along the way, but it was mostly a crack climb. Maybe I was on the wrong route....
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : The Thing : The East Face (5.7)
By: Rich F. When: Nov 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rappel station was in good shape with a relatively new sling and a quicklink. An okay climb...but not worth the major bushwhacking we did hiking uphill to get to the start. We definitely should have hiked up several more switchbacks along the main trail before cutting overland to the Thing.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Turkey's Bleak (5.10a)
By: Rich F. When: Nov 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this at the end of the day, after meeting Bob and Carrie Robertson by chance at the cliff a little earlier. Did not know this was one of their lines they put up, but it was definitely my wife's favorite climb of the day. Thanks, Bob and Carrie!
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Beach Ball (5.8)
By: Rich F. When: Nov 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gotta agree with Bill on this one -- my wife and I both thought this was really a fun line, with a nice crux to jam a couple bolts from the anchors.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Tunnel Springs : Crumbcake (5.7)
By: Rich F. When: Oct 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this was a fun route with a little stemming, jamming, and a small bulge to go over on the way to the anchors. The crack stays in the shade all day in the winter, so the rock was cold, but it was definitely worth climbing while at Tunnel Springs.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Independence Monument : Geezer Highway (5.9+ PG13)
By: Rich F. When: Sep 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mike -- I like "Geezer Highway" better than NW Crack. Thanks for putting up the first two pitches back in the '80s!
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : River Wall : Far Left Dihedral Crack (5.8-)
By: Rich F. When: Sep 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: If anyone knows the name of this route or the name/date of the first ascent, let me know and I will make the changes to the route description. I did not see this in either of the guidebooks I had for the area. Thanks.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : River Wall : Getting Older (5.8)
By: Rich F. When: Sep 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: At the River Wall today -- fun climbing, but I don't think there is any way the move through the overhanging, roof, finger crack goes at just 5.8. I'll be the first to admit that I'm not a particularly good climber -- but that's a tough move going over about a 3 ft overhanging roof, without any real feet, using a single finger crack. I'd rate that move closer to 5.10 than 5.8. On the other hand, going up the wider crack that passes the roof on the left side seemed about 5.8 to me, while travers... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Gambit (5.8)
By: Rich F. When: Sep 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is fantastic -- well worth the 30 to 40 minute approach. The last two pitches, though rated just 5.7 and 5.6, have incredible position and exposure. Don't miss this climb!
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : The Casual Route (5.8)
By: Rich F. When: Sep 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed some variant of the Casual Route on Saturday, and maybe the toughest part was figuring out where the route went after the finger crack at the start of pitch 2. I upclimbed and downclimbed several places trying to make sense of where I was on the route but did not see anything like the pictures submitted by John Peterson. On our pitch 3, we were more or less above the pitch 2 finger crack and climbed a wide crack formed by a left-facing dihedral which required a short layback move at th... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : San Juans : Lizard Head : Southwest Chimney (5.8 R)
By: Rich F. When: Aug 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A 70m rope is long enough to belay the full length of the loose rock scramble pitch, and a 70m rope is just long enough to descend to the base in two rappels.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Training Grounds : Beginner's Luck (5.6)
By: Rich F. When: Jul 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route, but the crux move is definitely harder than 5.6 for shorter climbers because they cannot reach the jugs overhead. Otherwise it's all very straightforward climbing.
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Sharkstooth : Boxcars and Airplanes (5.6)
By: Rich F. When: Jul 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A #0.4 BD cam fits perfectly in the crack to protect the climbing between the low first bolt and the high second bolt. Fun climb to a small pointy summit -- just wish it were taller.
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Spire Four : The Great Northwest Dihedra... (5.6)
By: Rich F. When: Jul 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a terrific climb, with a lot of exposure on the first pitch. Although most of the first pitch is very easy, in my opinion the crux dihedral is at least 5.7 (for about 15 very exposed and continuous moves). It's a great way to do Spire 4, with a variety of different climbing to the top -- but the dihedral was not the easy romp that I sort of expected. I was glad I took plenty of gear with me to sew up that crack on the right side of the dihedral. (Cams up to a BD #4)
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Emancipation : Dire Spire : Conn Route (5.7 R)
By: Rich F. When: Jul 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I need to pay more attention to these comments. I took the "easy ramp" on the far right for the first pitch -- fun, casual, though since I only placed two pieces of gear on the pitch, a fall getting on that ramp would have been long and painful. But, the "ramp" really was easy. When I looked at that new single bolt placed about 15 feet above the belay ledge on the 2nd pitch, it didn't look too risky at all. Granted, a fall onto the boulders on the belay ledge would have been painful from th... more >>
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Monster : Shakers : Going Down to Harlem with a... (5.8)
By: Rich F. When: Jul 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is about 100 feet uphill (left) of "Pointy Little Devil" and about 20 feet left of "Little Gremlins" (see photo). It starts up an easy wide crack/groove for about 15 feet then angles off left and up on the face to the summit. Although the first bolt is about 15 feet off the ground, it is easy to get to going up the wide channel, then stepping left. The route is well protected with about 7 or 8 bolts and a 2-bolt chain anchor on the summit. A 60m rope is enough. Fun climb.
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Monster : Shakers : Pointy Little Devil (5.8)
By: Rich F. When: Jul 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a nice, long, route. It requires thoughtful moves at the 5.8 crux, but the bolts are well placed to protect the climbing. Nice pointy little summit, too.
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Coliseum : Hollow Man (5.8)
By: Rich F. When: Jun 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route with a whole lot of layback opportunities up the wide but fairly low angle crack. The 2nd pitch bolted face climb has great exposure.
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Coliseum : Handcrack-a-rete (5.7+)
By: Rich F. When: Jun 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was a terrific climb. But with my weak crack climbing skills, I found the steep handcrack crux on this route harder than the 5.8 Hollow Man route one arete over. Highly recommended moderate climb!
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Location: CO : South Platte : Rampart Range Road : Parachute Rock : 5.9 Route (5.9)
By: Rich F. When: Jun 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, it's essentially a one-move route for the 5.9- crux at the start, but I also thought the rest of the route following up the crack (about 5.6) was very enjoyable.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Treasure Wall : Buried Treasure (5.9)
By: Rich F. When: Apr 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fantastic climb -- especially when the 3rd pitch is added in the "Buried Alive" variation. This climb is worth doing again!
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Stranger in Moscow (5.9)
By: Rich F. When: Apr 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this was a fantastic route -- really loved how it moved left out on the arete, then back right up the face split by the wide crack. Agree with the previous poster that you need to leave a bolt clipped as a directional for your second to follow on top rope. Nevertheless, this is a fun route, well protected, and worth the climb!
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Pig City Nights (5.8)
By: Rich F. When: Apr 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another fun route put up by MJM and RAMM.
Thanks for putting up some great routes at Shelf!
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Lloyd (5.7)
By: Rich F. When: Apr 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are actually two cracks that can be climbed. One to the right of "Harry" at the corner of a left-facing dihedral. It takes mostly 0.75 and #1 cams. Only about 30 ft tall. No anchors. Watch out for loose rock.
The one to the left of Harry is even shorter (about 20 ft tall), takes small cams (0.3 to 0.75). There's one clip at the top about 6 feet left of the anchors for Harry.
Both cracks are about the same difficulty -- about 5.7.
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