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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Bunny Slopes : Biscuit and Gravy (5.8)
By: rhyang When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: First moves are the hardest. Two bolts, then move right and head up the left-facing corner, which is something like 5.6. A couple of smallish cams between 0.6" and 1.25" work in the corner. From there several more bolts lead up to the anchor. Fun and short !
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Dozier Dome : Holdless Horror (5.7 PG13)
By: rhyang When: Jul 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hexes work great on this one; good for practice.
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Location: WY : Cody : South Fork Shoshone (Ice) : Cabin Fever (WI4)
By: rhyang When: Jan 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I recall bolts above the first pitch, on climber's right. Depending on conditions, they may be covered with snow, or sheared off by summer storms.
The WI3-ish pitches above the first WI4 pitch are called Wyoming Wave in the guidebook.
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Location: WY : Cody : South Fork Shoshone (Ice) : Cabin Fever (WI4) : Photo
By: rhyang When: Jan 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe only the first pitch is called Cabin Fever - according to the guidebook, the remaining WI3-ish pitches are called Wyoming Wave.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Knob Hill : Chicken Pie (5.7)
By: rhyang When: Oct 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pro to 3 or 4" is useful on the wide part. Descend by rapping off a tree (had slings & rings last time I was there).
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Castle Rock State Park : Castle Rock Waterfall Cliff... : Lieback Corner (5.7) : Photo
By: rhyang When: Oct 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this is actually Charlie Solo (5.6)
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Location: WA : Mount Rainier : Kautz Glacier (WI2-3)
By: rhyang When: Jan 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The amount of ice on the Kautz apparently varies quite a bit depending on the time of the season. On 9-July-2006 the first pitch was all snow and maybe 45 degrees at most, while the second pitch was about 40m of 50 degree ice. We pitched out this section and I led it with one tool and one axe. Very featured.
On the descent there was a fixed anchor about 70m above the start of the second pitch (probably a buried picket). Be prepared to make v-threads, rap off ice horns, etc.
Conditions upda... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove CG : Short Wall : SOB (5.6)
By: rhyang When: Nov 27, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: #3 - #4 camalots handy, as are fist jams higher up. A little wide and flaring.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove CG : Feudal Wall : ... : The Mikado (5.6)
By: rhyang When: Nov 27, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: A #4 camalot protects the first move. We descended by traversing to climber's left across an exposed ledge system to a bolted rap station.
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills : Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Rock : Elephant Walk (5.7)
By: rhyang When: Nov 20, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Led first pitch with a single set of cams, single set of nuts, the two smallest tricams, and a set of hexes. The hand jams were so good up higher that lots of gear felt unnecessary.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Castle Rock State Park : Summit Rock - Castle Rock : University of Santa Clara P... (5.8)
By: rhyang When: Oct 19, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Enjoyable sport lead.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Castle Rock State Park : Castle Rock Waterfall Cliff... : Lieback Corner (5.7)
By: rhyang When: Oct 18, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: No bolts at top - have to sling a couple of trees - 30-40' webbing slings helpful. Led it a couple of times this year just for practice. Fun.
(this is the one between Above the Law and Excessive Force, correct ?)
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Snake Dike (5.7 R)
By: rhyang When: Oct 9, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The free guide at Supertopo.com was quite helpful. Brought a set of nuts, six cams from black alien up to 0.75 camalot C4, six trad draws, one double-length draw, and some random slings/biners - more than enough gear. A skinny 60m rope allowed us to skip a couple of the belays. 8 pitches / 12 hours car-to-car. Bring gloves for the stupid cables :)
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Castle Rock State Park : Castle Rock Waterfall Cliff... : Degeneration (5.10a)
By: rhyang When: Jul 14, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: No vultures as of 7/14/06. Nice easy lead, at least up to the bolts ...
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