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5-September-2009: Me leading the North Face (5.8)<br /><br />pic by Laura Molnar


Member Since: Jun 30, 2006
Last Visit: 20 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 2,278
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rhyang

 
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location  Great Image  Date
5-September-2009: Me leading the North Face (5.8)<br /><br />pic by Laura Molnar

5-September-2009: Me leading the North Face (5.8)pic by Laura Molnar

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Crystal Crag

Nov 20, 2009

Looking up Biscuit and Gravy (5.8)

Looking up Biscuit and Gravy (5.8)

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Biscuit and Gravy (5.8)

Oct 26, 2009

8-Feb-2009: Stone Free / Popsicle area.

8-Feb-2009: Stone Free / Popsicle area.

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Stone Free (WI5)

Feb 13, 2009

8-Feb-2009: Popsicle (WI5), Ouray Ice Park

8-Feb-2009: Popsicle (WI5), Ouray Ice Park

rhyang : Personal

Feb 13, 2009

18-October-2008: Right Side (5.7) at Parkline Slab.  Kind of nasty, with moss, choss, loose rock, etc.  Avoid unless you want an 'adventure'.<br /><br />We did it in 4 pitches, and rapped off the pine tree at the top to two bolted rap stations with double 60m ropes.

18-October-2008: Right Side (5.7) at Parkline Slab. Kind of nasty, with moss, choss, loose rock, etc. Avoid unless you want an 'adventure'.We did it in 4 pitches, and rapped off the pine tree at the

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Parkline Slab

Oct 22, 2008

4-Feb-07: High On Boulder as viewed from the base.  The first pitch is a two-tiered WI3 (foreground), and the second a WI4 headwall (background).<br /><br />Rap chains can be found on the left at the base of the headwall (may have to dig out of the snow), and on the right somewhat above the headwall.  Above the third pitch there is a tree on the right with rap slings.

4-Feb-07: High On Boulder as viewed from the base. The first pitch is a two-tiered WI3 (foreground), and the second a WI4 headwall (background).Rap chains can be found on the left at the base of the

WY : Cody : ... : High on Boulder (WI4)

1 person

Feb 5, 2007

4-Feb-07 : High On Boulder as viewed from the approach.

4-Feb-07 : High On Boulder as viewed from the approach.

WY : Cody : ... : High on Boulder (WI4)

3 people

Feb 5, 2007

Me leading Northwest Books (5.6) in Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite National Park (pic by Susan Holl)

Me leading Northwest Books (5.6) in Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite National Park (pic by Susan Holl)

rhyang : Personal

Jan 15, 2007

Me leading a WI3 in Lee Vining Canyon, California (pic by Steve Larson)

Me leading a WI3 in Lee Vining Canyon, California (pic by Steve Larson)

rhyang : Personal

1 person

Jan 15, 2007

Me leading a WI3 in Lee Vining Canyon, California (pic by Steve Larson)

Me leading a WI3 in Lee Vining Canyon, California (pic by Steve Larson)

rhyang : Personal

1 person

Jan 15, 2007

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Bunny Slopes : Biscuit and Gravy (5.8)
By: rhyang When: Oct 26, 2009

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Comments: First moves are the hardest. Two bolts, then move right and head up the left-facing corner, which is something like 5.6. A couple of smallish cams between 0.6" and 1.25" work in the corner. From there several more bolts lead up to the anchor. Fun and short !


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Dozier Dome : Holdless Horror (5.7 PG13)
By: rhyang When: Jul 7, 2009

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Comments: Hexes work great on this one; good for practice.


Location: WY : Cody : South Fork Shoshone (Ice) : Cabin Fever (WI4)
By: rhyang When: Jan 23, 2009

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Comments: I recall bolts above the first pitch, on climber's right. Depending on conditions, they may be covered with snow, or sheared off by summer storms.

The WI3-ish pitches above the first WI4 pitch are called Wyoming Wave in the guidebook.


Location: WY : Cody : South Fork Shoshone (Ice) : Cabin Fever (WI4) : Photo
By: rhyang When: Jan 23, 2009

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Comments: I believe only the first pitch is called Cabin Fever - according to the guidebook, the remaining WI3-ish pitches are called Wyoming Wave.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Knob Hill : Chicken Pie (5.7)
By: rhyang When: Oct 20, 2008

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Comments: Pro to 3 or 4" is useful on the wide part. Descend by rapping off a tree (had slings & rings last time I was there).


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Castle Rock State Park : Castle Rock Waterfall Cliff... : Lieback Corner (5.7) : Photo
By: rhyang When: Oct 12, 2008

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Comments: I think this is actually Charlie Solo (5.6)


Location: WA : Mount Rainier : Kautz Glacier (WI2-3)
By: rhyang When: Jan 15, 2007

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Comments: The amount of ice on the Kautz apparently varies quite a bit depending on the time of the season. On 9-July-2006 the first pitch was all snow and maybe 45 degrees at most, while the second pitch was about 40m of 50 degree ice. We pitched out this section and I led it with one tool and one axe. Very featured.

On the descent there was a fixed anchor about 70m above the start of the second pitch (probably a buried picket). Be prepared to make v-threads, rap off ice horns, etc.

Conditions upda... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove CG : Short Wall : SOB (5.6)
By: rhyang When: Nov 27, 2006

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Comments: #3 - #4 camalots handy, as are fist jams higher up. A little wide and flaring.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove CG : Feudal Wall : ... : The Mikado (5.6)
By: rhyang When: Nov 27, 2006

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Comments: A #4 camalot protects the first move. We descended by traversing to climber's left across an exposed ledge system to a bolted rap station.


Location: CA : Sierra Foothills : Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Rock : Elephant Walk (5.7)
By: rhyang When: Nov 20, 2006

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Comments: Led first pitch with a single set of cams, single set of nuts, the two smallest tricams, and a set of hexes. The hand jams were so good up higher that lots of gear felt unnecessary.


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Castle Rock State Park : Summit Rock - Castle Rock : University of Santa Clara P... (5.8)
By: rhyang When: Oct 19, 2006

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Comments: Enjoyable sport lead.


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Castle Rock State Park : Castle Rock Waterfall Cliff... : Lieback Corner (5.7)
By: rhyang When: Oct 18, 2006

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Comments: No bolts at top - have to sling a couple of trees - 30-40' webbing slings helpful. Led it a couple of times this year just for practice. Fun.

(this is the one between Above the Law and Excessive Force, correct ?)


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Snake Dike (5.7 R)
By: rhyang When: Oct 9, 2006

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Comments: The free guide at Supertopo.com was quite helpful. Brought a set of nuts, six cams from black alien up to 0.75 camalot C4, six trad draws, one double-length draw, and some random slings/biners - more than enough gear. A skinny 60m rope allowed us to skip a couple of the belays. 8 pitches / 12 hours car-to-car. Bring gloves for the stupid cables :)


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Castle Rock State Park : Castle Rock Waterfall Cliff... : Degeneration (5.10a)
By: rhyang When: Jul 14, 2006

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Comments: No vultures as of 7/14/06. Nice easy lead, at least up to the bolts ...


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Cam ReslingsClimbing Gear Discussionrhyang6 days ago
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