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Rock Climbing Photo: The traverse out to the Yellow Ridge on the Dogsti...


Member Since: Feb 15, 2008
Last Visit: 10 mins ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 2073 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 84 | Page Improvements | Comments 82 | Posts 1903 | Stars 2 | Ratings 1
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : Trapps Bouldering : Keyhole Cliff area : Three Fools (V3) : Photo (Copy)
By: rgold When: Feb 8, 2010

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Comments: I did the "Three Fools" route in the early 1970's. We didn't name boulder problems at the time.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Photo
By: rgold When: Feb 7, 2010

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Comments: A cool shot to be sure! The climber is, at the moment, still making the moves on the regular CCK; the direct part of this section runs through the overhangs above he has yet to reach.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Trapps Bouldering : Pebbles Boulders : Arm Eater Crack (V1)
By: rgold When: Feb 7, 2010

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Comments: It is certainly true that the Arm Eater crack is somewhat less than a bouldering classic. Those not wishing to offer up their arms to the gnashing maw of the armeater crack will simply layback the whole thing and arrive over the lip flapper-free. As for the descent, traverse left and batman down the tree.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Trapps Bouldering : Uberfall problems : The Goldstone Bulge (V0) : Photo (Copy)
By: rgold When: Feb 6, 2010

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Comments: The line for the "Goldstone Bulge" starts more or less where the number 6 is and goes straight up. There's a long reach to a two-finger triangular pocket. A largish hold to the left which is a foothold on the start of Squiggles is not part of the route. An uneducated guess would be V4, harder if you are less than 5'9" but maybe also easier if you are taller.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Trapps Bouldering : Andrew Area : Andrew Boulder Problem (V4)
By: rgold When: Feb 6, 2010

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Comments: BITD we also used to do this as a pure campus problem (no heel hooks) all the way to the finishing jug.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Trapps Bouldering : Pebbles Boulders : Photo
By: rgold When: Feb 6, 2010

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Comments: Two comments:

1. Of historical interest: Tweedle Dee used to be harder. The large fractured finishing bucket was created by someone practicing aid climbing who pried off a thin flake that was useless as a hand hold. Boulderers interested in experiencing the original route should simply eliminate that hold and work with the crack and rib. Also, the original route (yellow), done as a lead not a boulder problem, continues up the face rather than traversing off left into the chimney.

2. The T... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : Trapps Bouldering : Keyhole Cliff area : Gill Crack (AKA The Brat Gi... (V2)
By: rgold When: Feb 6, 2010

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Comments: I don't have a clue about the bouldering V-grades, but the Gill Crack got quite a bit harder after a chockstone a move or two up came out. Also, take the question mark off Gill's name; he definitely made the first ascent.

For those interested in a lead, the Gill Crack can be used as a direct (and logical) start to Katzenjammer, which means that if it is a "variation" of any climb, the climb should be Katzenjammer, not Brat.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Trapps Bouldering : Keyhole Cliff area : The Gill Egg (AKA Gill’s R... (V4)
By: rgold When: Feb 6, 2010

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Comments: Gill only used the crimpers and the bucket, nothing on the nose or around the corner (I was there). Check out the picture posted in the comments on Larsen's problem.

Gill did have a wonderful eye for boulder problems, but his Gunks visit was only for two or three days. Who knows what other classics he might have done if he had more time?


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Annie Oh! (5.8+)
By: rgold When: Dec 7, 2009

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Comments: That picture of Tanya yarding on the block with flat feet scares the daylights out of me. I've done the route a bunch of times and really like it, but I have never so much as touched that block. Perhaps it is 5.9- there without the block, but well worth a little extra difficulty to avoid stressing a feature as detached as that.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Photo
By: rgold When: May 1, 2009

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Comments: Fantastic perspective on the DOWT wall!


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Cascade Canyon : Photo
By: rgold When: Apr 29, 2009

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Comments: I don't think that Symmetry Spire, which is bounded to the North by Hanging Canyon and to the South by the Symmetry Couloir, is considered to be a feature of Cascade Canyon. The Symmetry Couloir does run into Cascade Canyon, and so the South side routes are approached from Cascade Canyon, but I don't think Symmetry Spire itself is part of the Cascade Canyon wall.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon
By: rgold When: Apr 15, 2009

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Comments: The turn-off and the dirt road in can be seen quite clearly in Google Earth, which is even capable of rendering a few cliff details (worth a look if you will be descending Black Velvet Peak and also Windy Peak, for example).

The turn-off is at (36 deg 00 min 35.5 sec) North, (115 deg 25 min 55.55 sec) West.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Tenpins/Switchbacks : Hairy Pin : Cleveland Route (5.10+ X)
By: rgold When: Sep 25, 2008

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Comments: This sounds like the Barber Route, not the Cleveland Route. Neither way originally had any bolts, and there were a number of ascents of the Barber Route in its original boltless condition. John Bragg and I made one such ascent in the early seventies, I think. The Cleveland Route diagonaled right across the face after the initial moves and has, as far as I know, never been repeated on the lead.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Modern Times (5.8+)
By: rgold When: Sep 6, 2008

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Comments: Buy the guide to the Gunks by Zach Orenczak and Rachael Lynn and your prayers will be answered...Modern Times is now 5.10 b/c.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Needles Eye : Needle's Eye : Needle's Eye (5.8 X)
By: rgold When: Aug 2, 2008

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Comments: Hey guys, since history has come up here, some of you might find my account (link) of the "first" ascent of the Needle's Eye in 1964 and the ensuing discussion on SuperTopo to be interesting.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Outer Outlet : ... : Photo
By: rgold When: Jul 6, 2008

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Comments: It might be worth noting that the climber in the picture has traversed past the start of the the third-pitch chimney, and is at or near the top pitch of the West Buttress route.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Outer Outlet : Nick of Time (5.10)
By: rgold When: Feb 24, 2008

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Comments: The first ascent was by Bob Kamps and Richard Goldstone, August 7, 1968.

We also climbed the chimney just left of the NOT. I recall perhaps a bit of 5.9. Not even remotely as good a route though.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Three point anchor - The Saga ContinuesTrad ClimbingrgoldAug 17, 2016
re: To Pass or Not To Pass (and where to do it) This Is The QuestionGeneral ClimbingrgoldAug 11, 2016
re: Untying a Clove Hitch One HandedTrad ClimbingrgoldAug 10, 2016
re: Untying a Clove Hitch One HandedTrad ClimbingrgoldAug 10, 2016
re: Carabiners on Alpine Draws RotatingClimbing Gear DiscussionrgoldAug 9, 2016
re: Grand Teton, Enough room for everybody. Please pretend no one else is there and continue climbing or rappelling. Please be polite.Wyoming, Montana, DakotasrgoldAug 8, 2016
re: Carabiners on Alpine Draws RotatingClimbing Gear DiscussionrgoldAug 4, 2016
re: Carabiners on Alpine Draws RotatingClimbing Gear DiscussionrgoldAug 4, 2016
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