Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Rock Climbing Photo: The traverse out to the Yellow Ridge on the Dogsti...


Member Since: Feb 15, 2008
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
Contact rgold

rgold
is a member of
Point Rank: # 1,484
Total Points: 522
Last Year: 214
Last 30 Days: 10
25 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has rgold been climbing?










Contributions


All 2106 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 86 | Page Improvements | Comments 82 | Posts 1934 | Stars 2 | Ratings 1
Page 5 of 85.  <<First   <Prev   3  4  5  6  7   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Outer Outlet : Conn Diagonal (5.7)
By: rgold When: Apr 8, 2016

view comment >>
Comments:
Seth Hogan wrote:
Most of the classics, if they were in Yosemite, would be downgraded, imo.


I've done lots of the classic Needles climbs and quite a bit in Yosemite and Tuolumne and would say that when the styles are comparable (which they often are not), the Needles grades are either equivalent or more severe. Most of the original classic grades were supplied by Yosemite climbers who were pretty well-known for sandbagging their gradings. It is true that some of those original grades... more >>


Location: Climbing Skills : Single-Hitch Belay Escape
By: rgold When: Jan 23, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This is a terrible idea. The belayer escapes the belay and leaves the fallen second hanging from a clove hitch on the anchor, a situation that will add substantial, possibly dangerous, and totally unnecessary complications to the next step. And why? Because the belayer can't tie a Munter mule and has to substitute a clove hitch, which is the wrong knot for this application.

Rather than promoting an ignorant work-around that creates a bad situation, why not give an effective procedur... more >>


Location: Fundamentals : Personal Anchor Tethers for...
By: rgold When: Jan 23, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Personal tethers (not daisy's, which are for aid) have a host of uses and get a lot of bad press, a lot of it from people who don't understand the range of uses of a tether and argue that you can do the same thing on the fly with slings. (You can, maybe, but not exactly the point. For example, I can do everything one can do with an ATC-XP with a hip belay and carabiner brakes for rappels. This fact has not proved to be an argument against such belay devi... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Dark Shadows (Full) (5.8)
By: rgold When: Jan 14, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I hate getting lost on the approach and wasting time... and I did. So here's something to save you time.

GPS!

wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id...


That track, as displayed, is way off. It crosses the flanks of Bridge Mountain half-way up the walls and ends up on some summit on the South Flank of Bridge Mountain.


Location: Climbing Gear : The Perfect Backpack Rope C...
By: rgold When: Jan 8, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I coil from the ends. The whole point of coiling the rope doubled is a bit more speed, since you can certainly coil it single and still do the backpack finish at the end, so slowing down a process whose only point is quickness by starting from the middle doesn't make any sense to me.

I also don't buy that coiling from the middle does much to get rid of accumulated twists. A more effective approach is to have the second not tie in until the rope is almost fully taken up, as recommended in the ... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Alphonse (5.8) : Photo
By: rgold When: Nov 14, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I don't get significant rope drag doing it in a single pitch with doubles. Right-hand rope all the way up the corner and half-way or so along the traverse; double-length sling on the last piece. This may be the key, because the rope still has to run over a big overhang. Then left-hand rope for the part from the hanging belay up over the crux, and then the right-hand rope again after traversing right after the crux.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Pedestal Buttress : Upper Diagonal (5.9)
By: rgold When: May 10, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Doug, I have no doubt Pete led it, but I think I led it before he even arrived at Devil's Lake, in any case before he got busy.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Simple Suff (5.10a/b)
By: rgold When: May 3, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Way BITD, a "suff" was a big-wall aid climb (Yes, "suff" for "suffering"). Simple Suff was originally aided, but it falls rather short of being a big wall and the aid was easy, hence the "simple." One of the first ascenders, Ants Leemets, made the fifth ascent of the Nose with Dick Williams and Dave Dornan in 1966, four years after Simple Suff.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Pedestal Buttress : Upper Diagonal (5.9)
By: rgold When: Feb 24, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I guess it is possible that I did the first lead; I lead it in the early sixties. There were other climbers around who could easily have done it before me; John Gill, Dave Slinger, and Roger Wiegand are three that I know of. And soon after Pete Cleveland and Jim and Dave Erickson showed up, at which point it was a walk in the park.

The first time I tried it---I think that was '62---my foot skidded off something and I popped off, pulling a piton (this was before nuts) before... more >>


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Outer Outlet : West Buttress (5.8)
By: rgold When: Nov 2, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Picture from the second ascent posted.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Midnight Cowboy (5.9+ PG13)
By: rgold When: Oct 9, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: First ascent Richard Goldstone and Dick Williams, 1968. (I "discovered" the line and led pitches 1 and 2 so don't deserve to be left entirely off the FA credits!) thanks - added to route info - JSH

I don't know if new micro gear has improved the situation significantly, but if not the first pitch is more like R than PG-13, and as usual for Gunks 9+'s, it might be 10a. Pitch 2 had a really old pin down and left that might have indicated an aid ascent earlier.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Spire Six : Empire State Building (5.10)
By: rgold When: Aug 20, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: First ascent of the Wavy Crack route August 7, 1964 Mark and Beverly Powell and Bob Kamps. Not "circa 1968" as currently noted in the description.

In August 1967 I did an independent route on the face to the right of the Wavy Crack. My belayer didn't follow; I don't remember why now, but I think the sun was setting. Back then the Wavy Crack was 5.9 and my route seemed a bit easier, so we called it 5.8. Now that the Wavy Crack is 5.10, it is possible that my route might seem undergr... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : The Great Dihedral (5.9+ PG13)
By: rgold When: Apr 29, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Hmm. Perhaps worth noting that when Ivan and I did the route, nuts were all we had, and nothing as big as those recommended cams. Of course, there was no bolt in the offwidth either.

I protected the exit from what now seems to be called the Houdini Slot by climbing up into it, reaching around to the outside, and placing a nut in the crack in the dihedral. Normally, this would be a totally blind placement but in this case I could observe what I was doing from "inside" the crack because of my ... more >>


Location: Climbing Skills : How to Hip Belay
By: rgold When: Apr 25, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Those of us who grew up with hip belays for all belaying of both leader and second found it useful to clip the rope from belayer to climber into a carabiner that nowadays would be on the belay loop of the harness. This is very important if the hip belay is for the leader, but is useful even if the hip belay is for a second. In this case the carabiner adds a bit of friction by putting a bend in the rope path, and it makes it impossible for the rope to slip down the belayer's butt if the belayer... more >>


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Picket Fence : Photo
By: rgold When: Dec 13, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Take a good deep breath and hold it. Most of those trees are gone now, either the direct victims of the Mountain Pine Beetle or the efforts to limit its spread. See this shot, mountainproject.com/v/10719163..., a few further on.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Disney Point (5.10b/c) : Photo
By: rgold When: Nov 23, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I thing slinging the point is the way to go---that's what I used to do bitd. But I always anchored the sling to a piece placed further back so the sling couldn't lift off.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Photo
By: rgold When: Oct 4, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Yup, the Trapps aren't in this shot at all. Near Trapps front and center, Bayards to the left and Millbrook just peeking through the trees further left.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Tenpins/Switchbacks : Phallus
By: rgold When: Sep 4, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I don't know if Lauria was used as ballast on the Phallus, but that was a technique we used from time to time to get off a pinnacle without leaving anything behind, so it is certainly possible.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Tenpins/Switchbacks : Superpin : Barber Route (5.10 X)
By: rgold When: Aug 20, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: There was a big debate about this, with passion on both sides on Supertopo.

The "stealing" claim is bogus. The idea that Henry "stole" the route from someone who couldn't repeat it is itself a stretch. And you didn't have to overhear anyone's secrets to know about Superpin. I'd spoken to Henry about Pete Cleveland's amazing feat long before Henry arrived in the Needles. Henry didn't steal anything, he thought he was repeating Cleveland's route and realized as he got higher that he wasn't on i... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Annie Oh! (5.8+) : Photo
By: rgold When: Jul 23, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Well, the block fell out---fortunately not while someone was yarding on it as in this picture. The fact that it just went one day confirms that the warnings about not pulling on it were justified. Thank god no one got hurt.

Meanwhile, this photo is going to go into the Annals of How Not to Climb on Real Rock.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Picket Fence : Photo
By: rgold When: Jul 8, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The surveying and original maps (this is just one) were done by Herb Conn, who was a civil engineer before moving to the Needles to climb. When Bob Kamps wrote his guide to the Needles, Herb gave him permission to use the map, which at that point only existed as a small and mediocre mimeograph image.

I took that image and with a draftsman's pantograph (this was before there were computer tools for such things), set to work on enlarging and labeling the map for Bob's guidebook. As the enormity... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Classic (5.7) : Photo
By: rgold When: Jun 8, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Yup, the Jackie line is wrong almost everywhere.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Two Pines Buttress : Reprieve (5.7)
By: rgold When: May 25, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I think the source for the route now called The Reprieve was something I did in 1962 we called Richard's Reprieve. The route started where The Reprieve starts but veered right to Full Stop for protection (and easier moves) before moving back left. The first ascent was done on the lead (in the days before nuts). I've posted two pictures that give some idea about where we went.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Yellow Ridge (5.7)
By: rgold When: May 15, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I've always climbed the nose at the start. You begin just left of the nose, move up, and step just right of the nose to finish. The gear wouldn't stop you from hitting the ground from later moves. It's 5.7.

I've always off-widthed right side in, which follows the granite conventional wisdom about having your back on a protruding offset. Given the prevalence of holds in the Gunks, the granite wisdom may not apply, but in any case the two or three offwidth moves are very elementary. You do en... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Grand Central (5.9)
By: rgold When: Apr 21, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: "...Above, a thin crack (crux) leads up. The pro is a bit tricky to place. Suddenly a big jug appears and you're up to a belay below the final overhang. 5.9, 120'."

It isn't hard to do this as a single pitch with double ropes and no drag, but there is a trick: only clip the right rope up to the first roof (of course use a long runner under the roof), traverse left and pass the left rope in front of the tree. (You have to untie to do this of course. I just clip the left rope to me wit... more >>


Page 5 of 85.  <<First   <Prev   3  4  5  6  7   Next>   Last>>

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!