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Rock Climbing Photo: The traverse out to the Yellow Ridge on the Dogsti...


Member Since: Feb 15, 2008
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Total Points: 522
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 2109 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 86 | Page Improvements | Comments 82 | Posts 1937 | Stars 2 | Ratings 1
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Needle's Eye map detail.

Needle's Eye map detail.

Forums : Colorado : ... : Post

Jul 3, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: Richard Goldstone on Richard's Reprieve, Two Pines...

Richard Goldstone on Richard's Reprieve, Two Pines Buttress, in 1962. The original route veered right to Full Stop, then back left. The Reprieve is a straightened-out version of the original lead.

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Reprieve (5.7)

May 25, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: Richard Goldstone starting up Richard's Reprieve, ...

Richard Goldstone starting up Richard's Reprieve, Two Pines Buttress, in 1962. The original route veered right to Full Stop and then moved back left. The Reprieve is a straightening-out of the origi

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Reprieve (5.7)

May 25, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: Richard Goldstone on Richard's Reprieve, Two Pines...

Richard Goldstone on Richard's Reprieve, Two Pines Buttress, Devil's Lake 1962(?)

The People of Mountain Proj... : rgold : Climbing Pictures

May 25, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: Richard Goldstone at start of Richard's Reprieve, ...

Richard Goldstone at start of Richard's Reprieve, Devil's Lake, 1962(?)

The People of Mountain Proj... : rgold : Climbing Pictures

May 25, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: Mohonk Preserve Operating Expenses 2010

Mohonk Preserve Operating Expenses 2010

Forums : Eastern States : ... : Post

Oct 29, 2011

Rock Climbing Photo: Fourier Transforms in Material Science

Fourier Transforms in Material Science

Forums : Community Forum : ... : Post

Aug 26, 2011

Rock Climbing Photo: Pulley Effect

Pulley Effect

Forums : Trad Climbing : ... : Post

Dec 8, 2010

Rock Climbing Photo: Here's Gill repeating Larsen's Problem (left pictu...

Here's Gill repeating Larsen's Problem (left picture) and Gill on the Gill Egg (right picture).

NY : The Gunks : ... : Larsen's Problem (V1)

Feb 9, 2010

Rock Climbing Photo: The traverse out to the Yellow Ridge on the Dogsti...

The traverse out to the Yellow Ridge on the Dogstick Ridge link-up. Photo by Myriam Bouchard

The People of Mountain Proj... : rgold : Climbing Pictures

Aug 19, 2009

Rock Climbing Photo: Me on the last moves of Annie Oh, 5.8, Gunks.

Me on the last moves of Annie Oh, 5.8, Gunks.

The People of Mountain Proj... : rgold : Climbing Pictures

Feb 26, 2008

Rock Climbing Photo: Don Storjohann soloing up the Needle's Eye the eve...

Don Storjohann soloing up the Needle's Eye the evening before the first ascent in 1964.

SD : Custer State Park : Needles Eye

Feb 16, 2008

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Jean (5.9+)
By: rgold When: Aug 7, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Jean is left of Sixish, not right of Sixish as the current location text says.


Location: Fundamentals : Learn the Basics of Rappell...
By: rgold When: Jul 19, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The advice in the article is decades out of date.

First, the autoblock-on-legloop is a suboptimal method. There are at least two problems:

1. Prying open a legloop buckle. If the leg loop has buckles, then depending on where the autoblock is placed it might or might not pull open a buckle. See blog.alpineinstitute.com/2011/... for bad and good places to clip.

2. Autoblock failure. As alluded to in the article, the length of t... more >>


Location: Fundamentals : Personal Anchor Tethers for...
By: rgold When: Jul 17, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: You don't adjust PAS-style tethers by unclipping. You put a second carabiner into the primary end carabiner and then clip appropriate loops into that.


Location: Trad Climbing : Build an Anchor in Poor Roc...
By: rgold When: Jul 17, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: What is missing here is a discussion about how to use the climbing rope to set up these anchors, which can be done in a way that gives far better load distribution than the in-series solutions.

The two illustrated in-series solutions deliver half of the total load to a single piece of the anchor, and certainly do not deserve to be called "equalized" in any sense. Since the article is about anchors in bad rock, a technique that is supposed to spread the load but ... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : Millbrook : Cruise Control (5.9)
By: rgold When: Jul 6, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: P1: Do not "traverse out right under the roof and up and over to belay in the right-facing corner," you'd be missing an essential part of what makes the pitch great. The route steps left and goes directly over the roof. The climber in the photo is getting ready to do this.

And yes, very small cams (or ballnuts) can give you some higher protection as you begin the crux. Whether protection obtained via very small cams should ever be called &quo... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Back to the future (5.8 PG13)
By: rgold When: Jul 4, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I don't know about the "pointy overhang" either. After the crux moves past the thin flake, I stepped right and then climbed more or less straight up to the belay ledge, with little if any protection. Definitely R, maybe X---I'm not sure how big the runout was or what is lurking below to collide with. But the moves above the crux flake were nowhere near 5.8. It's a little hard to be objective when you ar... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Fat and Weak (5.7)
By: rgold When: Jul 4, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I've done p1 a few times. I think it is 5.7.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks Region : Mt. Colden : California Flake (5.9+ PG13) : Photo
By: rgold When: Jul 3, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Izzat big piece needed for this route?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+) : Photo
By: rgold When: Jun 12, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I've done it both ways. The crack is definitely better and more interesting climbing. Maybe bring a large cam for it (#4 Camalot? I didn't have one).


Location: Climbing Gear : The Alpine Quickdraw
By: rgold When: Jun 12, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Quickdraws, both the items and the name, were invented by Yosemite climbers around 1970. The original ones consisted to two carabiners connected by a single or double loop of knotted 9/16" webbing. Nothing was used to bind either end of the webbing to a carabiner.

You can see a bunch of quickdraws tied with green 9/16" webbing in this picture:

 more >>


Location: Climbing Skills : A Safer Way to Set Up Rappe...
By: rgold When: May 19, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: If the second person down is inexperienced and can't be trusted to rig their own rappel, then this is the best way to proceed. For a fully experienced party, it has a drawback, which is that the first person down can't test how hard it will be to pull the rope. Now that many rappels are done from pre-placed rappel stations, this is not as much of an issue, but if the party is retreating and building its own rap stations, then the ability to pull the rope can be critical and needs to be tested.


Location: Climbing Skills : Belaying While Mid-Pitch Wh...
By: rgold When: May 19, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The follower then coils the rope over his shoulder for the simul-climb portion of this scenario. If the rope isn't secured and the leader takes a fall the rope would cinch up and strangle the poor follower, hence the clove hitch.

Not true. The rope is running through the grigri which (one hopes) takes the load if the leader falls. The clove hitch is just a backup, and yes, it has to be undone if the second is going to belay the leader.

I think a better method is to tie off the grigr... more >>


Location: Climbing Skills : Rappel Without a Belay Devi...
By: rgold When: May 19, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: You can do with just two (or, in a pinch, even one) carabiner by using an even older method. Clip the carabiners (or carabiner) to the belay loop, clip the rappel ropes through the biners, and then pass the ropes around your hips just below your waist so that they wrap around to your brake hand. If you are lightly clad, a great trick is to take off your t-shirt and stuff it down the back of your shorts to pad the hip area where the rope will be running.

A number of us used this method for yea... more >>


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