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Rock Climbing Photo: CoR


Member Since: Jul 18, 2011
Last Visit: Sep 15, 2016
Contact rging

Point Rank: # 3,338
Total Points: 201
Last Year: 20
Last 30 Days: 1
5 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has rging been climbing?










Contributions


All 738 | Routes | Areas | Photos 36 | Page Improvements | Comments 21 | Posts 567 | Stars 73 | Ratings 41

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Penitentiary Wall
By: rging When: Aug 31, 2016

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Comments: I would like to thank the arrogant elitist ass who saw fit to chop all of the bolts on the first two routes up there. You just couldn't leave others to their fun without imposing your sense of justice on the climbing world. Next time I go up there I will chop all the anchor chains and you can do all the climbs as a down climb walk off.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : East Sector : Fence Line : Really Sweet (5.7)
By: rging When: May 14, 2016

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Comments: Climb 10 feet to the left with gear. Much more interesting rock and easy to protect. Harder than Really Sweet by a half grade.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : East Sector : Fence Line : Poptart (5.7)
By: rging When: May 14, 2016

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Comments: A 5.6 with one move that you might consider a 5.7.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : East Sector : Fence Line : Patina Pie (5.8) : Photo
By: rging When: May 14, 2016

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Comments: Loved the climb, great crux but this is the worst bolt placement I have ever seen. The first is useless, the third which is at the crux is unreachable until you are in the middle of the move then the next one is so far away you can ground fall. You are basically free soloing the climb until you get a few feet from the chains.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Sail : Bong Bong Firecracker (5.7+)
By: rging When: Nov 7, 2015

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Comments: In true Wasatch style there was a a great November weekend so I headed up to the sail with a friend that wanted to get payback. Three years ago he was bailing off and broke his ankle in the process. After placing one piece he was five feet above it in the small shallow part of the crack and slipped on some grit and came tumbling down along with his one piece as he rolled past his belayer toward the cliff edge. Fortunately the small trees stopped him. After another attempt he lost his nerve and f... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : Captain Jack (5.7)
By: rging When: Aug 21, 2013

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Comments: Some people just don't get it. Climb it again and take the time to look around and study the rock. I recall placing two opposing pieces once or twice and a few other creative solutions. There was no ground fall potential (assuming my gear would hold).

BTW, coming prepared doesn't just mean bringing the right equipment.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : East Face : Moral Bells Arete (5.8)
By: rging When: Apr 30, 2013

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Comments: I must have stepped on that loose rock and sent it and all its sharp sides toward my belayers head. He jumped out of the way after I yelled rock twice in rapid succession, almost pulling me off in the process. He was marveling at his survival skills while I was yelling at him to give me a little slack so I could finish, or at least clip the nearest bolt.


Location: UT : Moab Area : 191 South : Looking Glass Rock
By: rging When: Apr 19, 2013

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Comments: I am headed there this weekend and don't have a 70m rope. I think I will do a biner block and tie whatever gear/pack I have to the other end as a counterweight. If the rap is free hanging the other end of the rope should come right down once I am off rappel at the bottom. In theory anyway.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Panty Wall : Cover My Buttress (5.5)
By: rging When: Apr 1, 2013

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Comments: I belayed my son to the two bolts then realized they weren't rap anchors. I noticed a rap anchor 15 feet up (one rap anchor, one chain). I thought I could place a piece or two but could not find any gear placements above the two bolts. If you were to fall it would be very bad and I'd say there is a move or two that might go 5.7. Just walk off or leave webbing at the lower bolts.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Reservoir Ridge : I Ran To Afghanistan (5.6)
By: rging When: Jul 31, 2012

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Comments: The moss comment seems a little nutty to me. The direction the wall is facing does not make that line obvious to see. I have been to that wall several times this summer and just noticed the climb (from the base).


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Parley's Canyon : Riptide Wall : Edge of the Sea (5.10a)
By: rging When: Jul 6, 2012

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Comments: Traversing from one crack system to another (and figuring out where to) is a bit tricky but other than that its pretty straighforward.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Pentapitch (5.8)
By: rging When: Jun 24, 2012

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Comments: Was rockin' along and hit a super greasy spot about 150 feet up 10 feet short of a slung tree and took a 25 foot whipper. Scared the hell out of the group behind us waiting there turn. It was on my mind as I did the last pitch slab but I mustered the courage and finished it out.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Elephant Rock - East : Rye Crisp (5.8)
By: rging When: Jun 22, 2012

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Comments: I led this the other day with 2 #3s and 3 #2s and the typical smaller c4s. Not a good idea. You really need at least 1 #4 and 3 #3s would be nice. Plus don't forget the gear belay at the top where a couple of 2s or a 2 and a 1 are needed.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Steinfell's Dome : Theater of Shadows (5.6)
By: rging When: Jun 18, 2012

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Comments: There is no way you can give this climb 3 stars at a 5.7 rating. At 5.5 maybe. Other than the first 20 feet this climb barely goes 5.5. Great views and fun rap but that's about it. This rating is the furthest off of any mountain project listed climb I have ever done.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Dead Snag : Steorts' Ridge (5.6)
By: rging When: Jun 1, 2012

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Comments: I don't quite get the bolt on the third pitch. It's the only place I could find to put pro in (a few feet above or below it, don't remember). After that I looked around and took my time and couldn't find much. I don't know why someone didn't put that bolt 15-20 feet higher where it is really run out if they felt it needed one.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Steinfell's Dome : Southern Arches (5.8+) : Photo
By: rging When: May 10, 2012

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Comments: Holy whippers Batman.


Location: UT : Saint George : Snow Canyon State Park : Island In The Sky : Sand Dunes : Stranger Than Friction (5.8)
By: rging When: May 10, 2012

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Comments: Got halfway up and couldn't figure out where to go. You know you are in trouble when you ask your belayer for directions.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Crescent Crack (5.7)
By: rging When: May 9, 2012

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Comments: Did the 5.9 finish. Well my partner led it which meant I had to lead The Final Link. The first few moves to reach the first bolt are scary. I was willing to sell my first born to reach the second and I swear the bolts are so far apart that you have to clip the third before you are safe from plummeting off the edge of the slab. Slab is best left for cooler weather.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Mule Hollow Wall : Jam Crack Route (5.6)
By: rging When: May 9, 2012

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Comments: First pitch is great, last two forgettable. Do the 5.7 if you are going to hike up to this wall.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Cat in the Hat (5.6)
By: rging When: May 9, 2012

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Comments: Even though I had beta in my pocket and read it a dozen times I accidentally ran the last two pitches together. I forgot to step down and traverse instead stepping up and traversing. That traverse is pretty thin and harder than 5.6 but the worst is the rope drage near the top when you least want it. I wouldn't recomend it unless you didn't get enough excitement to that point.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : JHCOB Wall : Outside Corner (5.7) : Photo
By: rging When: May 9, 2012

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Comments: This makes me queasy. Glad I didn't look down when I was at that spot.



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