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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Only the Good Die Young (5.11c) By: rex parker When: Sep 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: really fun worth going out to climb the exposure on the second or third pitch were it angled down to the left is sweet
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Mass Production Wall : Parts is Parts (5.8) By: rex parker When: Nov 2, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: maybe this was a 5-8 at one time but it is reachy and i.m.o a little harder than 5-8 ,perhaps holds have broken off , also beware of a couple of jugs so hollow sounding that you can beat them like a drum. i agree w/ gigette note a good one for someone just leading in this range, same go's for the 5-9 to its left.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Refrigerator Wall : La Cierta Edad (5.10d) By: rex parker When: Aug 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: ok to further the confusion.to climb this route you need to have your offwidth technique down cause personally the cruxes are offwidth,and i suck at them so the cruxes were difficult. the rest of the route was awsome.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Dark Shadows (5.8) By: rex parker When: Jul 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: this thing is not all in the sun thats crazy, went last monday got an early start and only pitch 4 was in the shade, if you plan to try to escape the sun and climb this in the summer dont start early the sun cooks it. the shade doesent start untill around 11 but i finally did the route the first 4 pitches. and i am impressed, i liked dark shadows, so go back and do it, is what i say..and the base is a great spot to chill out
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Magic Bus : Ken Queasy (5.8 PG13) By: rex parker When: May 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: i think the potential is bad for not placing the small nut or stopper before the first bolt, because a ground fall could hurt the belayer and you could fall substantially farther because of the cliff to the right of the belay stance, dont run this one out to the first bolt place that piece, cause the rock is kinda sketchy untill the bolt.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Ginger Cracks (5.9) By: rex parker When: Apr 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: just some advice i dont know who put them their or why but towards the end of the second pitch theirs two bolts under a roof to the left, after the finger chimney, dont stop here trend rightand follow the crack system after the roof to get to the end of the second pitch. so far out of the red rock climbs ive done, as a local, this is my favorite by far . rex
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Kraft Boulders By: rex parker When: Apr 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Recently the residents of Calico have put up signs in the cul-de-sac, that tell people not to park in the very end of the cul-de-sac so please don't, just park before the signs, be courteous and don't taunt the labs!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Armatron (5.9) By: rex parker When: Nov 27, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ok Armatron was good, but Greg that variation to the left are you sure, that is new, I think, (don't know for sure) but is that maybe the climb called The Birthday Cake? Now me and my buddy carried a 70 and a sixty meter rope, up you can rap the 4th pitch with a 70 meter rope, you can go from the 3rd pitch with a 70 meter rope and rap to the left of the black arete and about a 3rd of the way down your rope on you left will see a two bolt anchor in a standing left facing corner, (maybee the sec... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cut Your Teeth Crag By: rex parker When: Oct 22, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: awesome great fun climbing for the whole family, except i dont recommend bringing little kids as the deck is on a perched ledge about 150 feet from the canyon, so if they need supervision dont bring um but other than that this place is awesome for teaching new people it has everything.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Hidden Falls Wall : Bigfoot (5.10a) By: rex parker When: Sep 24, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: from the last bolt to the chain anchor is like 16 feet so uh yeah hold on.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Pier : Long Walk Off Of a Short Pi... (5.9-) By: rex parker When: Sep 24, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: yeah good warm up for the rest of the pier fun little climb, worth doing if your out that area
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Pier : Under the Boardwalk (5.10d) By: rex parker When: Sep 24, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: yeah uh this rating is diffrent for red rocks considering how most of red rocks can be over rated i believe that this climb is under rated a technical crux at the start and a slopey hard finish, this climb is a lot harder than it looks i think only the middle section could be a 5-10b the rest is a lot harder than it looks and most of the holds are in bad need of cleaning, slopers so smooth with black shoe and rubeed over chalk residue dosent make it much better,but worth checking out its in the ... more >>
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Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : Mary Jane Cliff : Chimney/Slab (5.8) By: rex parker When: Sep 16, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: its possible to go 50 feet to the right and scramble up a little canyon and reach down and set up a toprope if you got some kids or some thing cause theirs not much else around in the area in the range or mnt charlston for that matter .
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Location: rex parker : rexos goods : Photo By: rex parker When: Sep 14, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: ok i was way wrong i have figure this out to blind ambition,north face ,chimney rock joshua tree,5-10dmixed
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Tonto (5.5) By: rex parker When: Sep 7, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: i went up their in june and left two new webbing rap anchors and two new omega pacific rap rings around the tree, good route you can barely rappel with one 60 meter rope, screw ropes this thing is pretty solid go solo that bitch!
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