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Member Since: Apr 17, 2004
Last Visit: 37 mins ago
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Point Rank: # 22
Total Points: 12,592
Last Year: 202
Last 30 Days: 73
366 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Tradoholic been climbing?










Contributions


All 6065 | Routes 282 | Areas 80 | Photos 1388 | Page Improvements | Comments 1632 | Posts 945 | Stars 1173 | Ratings 565
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (k) Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Left Side : The Man Who Fell to Earth (5.11a)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 23, 2016

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Comments: Hidden Gem! Three bolts now for the initial 5.10d section, run out to bolt #4, distinct 5.11 crux at bolt#5. If you don't feel like 5.11 slab, traverse right at bolt #3 up a ramp to two bolts and then a bolted anchor in a left facing corner, finish on Caliente (10c 2nd pitch), bolts for rap to the right.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Rainy Wednesday Tower : Orgasm Direct (5.11b) : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 15, 2016

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Comments: Shit, I remember backing off this on the OS. I re-read my comment on the main page, I called it "X"! But maybe I just got all fucked up on it, never tried again that I recall.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Pseudo Hawk's Nest : Bagatelle (5.12d R)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 9, 2016

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Comments: Holy fuck. Awesome!


Location: WI : The Fishin' Crag (Castle Ro... : North Wall : Panacea Roof (5.12b)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 4, 2016

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Comments: Anyone climb this yet?


Location: WI : The Fishin' Crag (Castle Ro...
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 4, 2016

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Comments: Sounds like damage was "near" routes but not actually to them. Yes?


Location: WI : The Fishin' Crag (Castle Ro...
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 3, 2016

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Comments: Fuzzy. Try the forums.

Just noticed the vandalism. Any routes affected?


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (g) West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : Mr. Slate (5.10d)
By: Tradoholic When: Mar 27, 2016

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Comments: Indeed, there's one more bolt than indicated by Gaines/Vogel. At the 5th bolt there's a blank impasse where you grab a flake at the end of the first pitch of Human Fright. I stopped here and rapped from the HF anchors. Seemed very contrived and silly to step back out onto the face for two more bolts and 25ft of climbing. Felt right to end there.

Great and interesting climbing through the first five bolts.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (q) Sunkist Face : Jigsaw (5.10a R)
By: Tradoholic When: Mar 25, 2016

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Comments: Yea, bolt placement sucks. Perfect bullet rock on the top half of this thing though.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (r) Sideshow Slab : Step Right Up (5.10a)
By: Tradoholic When: Mar 25, 2016

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Comments: Pretty fun. I went left at the third bolt and clipped the first bolt on Sideshow, then traversed right. Second pitch was wet but it was pretty easy to escape left.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (m) The Weeping Wall : Duck Soup (5.10c PG13)
By: Tradoholic When: Mar 22, 2016

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Comments: Didn't feel anymore "R" than anything else on the wall. I hung out at the crux a bunch then took chance and went left which worked out nicely.

I clipped 3 bolts on the first pitch, the first on Revelation and the two as listed on route in the Gaines/Vogel.


Location: WI : Central Sandstone : Rattlesnake Mound : Main Cliff West : Fists and Fury (5.9+) : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Mar 16, 2016

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Comments: Lol. Yea, I think I only used one piece!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : The Valley of Kings : ... : Witch Hunt (5.10b)
By: Tradoholic When: Mar 11, 2016

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Comments: So I don't need to carry multiple books to cover the whole park. That book has the best overview of everything despite a few errors.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : The Valley of Kings : ... : Witch Hunt (5.10b)
By: Tradoholic When: Mar 10, 2016

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Comments: Huh? I wouldn't say this is close to classic. A few crimpy slab moves for about 10ft is about it. A whipping swinger from the crux didn't look fun either. Last two bolts are just about junk and unnecessary as well. (Shrugs).

BTW, pic in the the latest Mirmontes guide has this starting the same as the 12 and the positions of the bolts is off too. Start left on the crack under the arete.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : The Valley of Kings : ... : Firewater Chimney (5.10b)
By: Tradoholic When: Mar 10, 2016

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Comments: Worth the hike, unfortunately unless you climbing 5.12 not much else of high quality to do in the area.

Beautiful feature with very unique to JT climbing. I'm 6ft and found it pretty easy albeit slightly run-out. I found that you can get more comfortable by going deeper or further out depending on your height. Being comfortable with chimney is helpful. Easier than the chimney pitches on Epi in RR (5.9).


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Cleopatra's Needle : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Feb 18, 2016

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Comments: Tony, they probably wouldn't even know what a "bolt" is. #dontaskdonttell


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (g) West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : Fred (5.11a)
By: Tradoholic When: Feb 16, 2016

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Comments: Punchy route. Low crux is well protected by a bolt. Mantle move after second bolt is a little heady knowing there are some ankle breaker ledges below but fairly safe. Next mantle after is fairly well-protected and the final mantle was pretty easy I thought.

P2 bolts are crap, I don't think anyone has led it in awhile.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (i) South Face : South Face - Right Side : Pas de Deux (5.10+)
By: Tradoholic When: Feb 16, 2016

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Comments: Got a nice gray X4 hand level on the mantle, on the right side. However, blowing the mantle would fling you around the right side into ugly territory. Lots of thin loose flakes over the mantle and after the last bolt. Good moves though, just watch out for thin flaky crimps.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (i) South Face : South Face - Left Side : The Chauvinist (5.8)
By: Tradoholic When: Feb 16, 2016

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Comments: P1 is nothing but a direct start to Left Ski. To stay left of the LS is silly because you have to place gear in the crack. P2 was about 40ft of ok slab climbing. Move on...nothing to see here.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Sports Challenge Rock : Sports Challenge Rock - Eas... : Clean and Jerk (5.10c)
By: Tradoholic When: Feb 11, 2016

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Comments: I placed a solid .3 standing on a cheat stone at the start. No dynoing if you can lock off well.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Blob : The Blob - Southeast Face : Papa Woolsey (5.10b)
By: Tradoholic When: Feb 11, 2016

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Comments: I didn't find this polished or 10c. 10b at the worst or work on your slab skills.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Rollerball Formation : Rollercoaster (5.11b)
By: Tradoholic When: Feb 11, 2016

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Comments: Loved this but I couldn't figure out the move to get over the roof. Mantle?


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : The Others : Hinterland Buttress : Key Hole Tower : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 30, 2016

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Comments: Whoa those line look sweet. Grade?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : The Bilbo Buttresses : Sean Penn (5.10d)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 30, 2016

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Comments: Interesting features on this one. Wish I would have known about the left variation when I did it.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Moosedog Tower : Third Time's a Charm (5.10b)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 30, 2016

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Comments: Two move wonder. I was definitely doing it the reachy way by grabbing a very high under cling right at he bolt.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Wall : The Wall - Right Side : Chalk Up Another One (5.10a)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 20, 2016

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Comments: I didn't use any gear besides for the anchor, two C4 #2s and a #3.


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