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Member Since: Apr 17, 2004
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Tradoholic

Point Rank: # 22
Total Points: 12,530
Last Year: 132
Last 30 Days: 35
352 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Tradoholic been climbing?










Contributions


All 5975 | Routes 281 | Areas 80 | Photos 1385 | Page Improvements | Comments 1595 | Posts 915 | Stars 1154 | Ratings 565
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Cleopatra's Needle : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Feb 18, 2016

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Comments: Tony, they probably wouldn't even know what a "bolt" is. #dontaskdonttell


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : Fred (5.11a)
By: Tradoholic When: Feb 16, 2016

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Comments: Punchy route. Low crux is well protected by a bolt. Mantle move after second bolt is a little heady knowing there are some ankle breaker ledges below but fairly safe. Next mantle after is fairly well-protected and the final mantle was pretty easy I thought.

P2 bolts are crap, I don't think anyone has led it in awhile.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : South Face - Right Side : Pas de Deux (5.10+)
By: Tradoholic When: Feb 16, 2016

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Comments: Got a nice gray X4 hand level on the mantle, on the right side. However, blowing the mantle would fling you around the right side into ugly territory. Lots of thin loose flakes over the mantle and after the last bolt. Good moves though, just watch out for thin flaky crimps.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : South Face - Left Side : The Chauvinist (5.8)
By: Tradoholic When: Feb 16, 2016

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Comments: P1 is nothing but a direct start to Left Ski. To stay left of the LS is silly because you have to place gear in the crack. P2 was about 40ft of ok slab climbing. Move on...nothing to see here.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Sports Challenge Rock : Sports Challenge Rock - Eas... : Clean and Jerk (5.10c)
By: Tradoholic When: Feb 11, 2016

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Comments: I placed a solid .3 standing on a cheat stone at the start. No dynoing if you can lock off well.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Blob : The Blob - Southeast Face : Papa Woolsey (5.10b)
By: Tradoholic When: Feb 11, 2016

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Comments: I didn't find this polished or 10c. 10b at the worst or work on your slab skills.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Rollerball Formation : Rollercoaster (5.11b)
By: Tradoholic When: Feb 11, 2016

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Comments: Loved this but I couldn't figure out the move to get over the roof. Mantle?


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : The Others : Hinterland Buttress : Key Hole Tower : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 30, 2016

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Comments: Whoa those line look sweet. Grade?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : The Bilbo Buttresses : Sean Penn (5.10d)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 30, 2016

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Comments: Interesting features on this one. Wish I would have known about the left variation when I did it.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Moosedog Tower : Third Time's a Charm (5.10b)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 30, 2016

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Comments: Two move wonder. I was definitely doing it the reachy way by grabbing a very high under cling right at he bolt.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Wall : The Wall - Right Side : Chalk Up Another One (5.10a)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 20, 2016

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Comments: I didn't use any gear besides for the anchor, two C4 #2s and a #3.


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Lonely Boulders : Only the Lonely (V4) : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 8, 2016

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Comments: Midwest Hardcore. Bravo.


Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Hell Wall AKA Quarry Wall : Glass Balls (5.9+)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 28, 2015

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Comments: @Jon. Yes but I didn't star rate it. THERE'S A DIFFERENCE!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Left Side : Jonah (5.10c)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 20, 2015

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Comments: Had to bail after P4 due to darkness but I thought up to there was absolute junk. I looked forward to doing the rest however. My beta is to skip the first 4 pitches and enter the Ubangi Lips from Angel's Fright.


Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Hell Wall AKA Quarry Wall : Glass Balls (5.9+)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 20, 2015

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Comments: Yea! Now I only freeze my ass off if I want to.


Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Hell Wall AKA Quarry Wall : Glass Balls (5.9+)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 18, 2015

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Comments: Damnit! I wish I could have led this on gear so I could call you a "Pansy-Apple".


Location: WI : Grandad's Bluff : Meader Wall : Patent Pending (5.10d)
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 17, 2015

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Comments: Meader is the last name of my uncle. He climbed with Dave back in the day. Funny coincidence that he was a climber, I didn't even know until many years after I started climbing myself. He still lives in the area but is more into MTB now.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 17, 2015

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Comments: No soft catches at DL!! There's no room!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : North Face : El Grandote (5.9)
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 8, 2015

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Comments: How can you comment on quality if you only climbed the first pitch?


Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Above Anthrax : Ponyboy (5.12a) : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Sep 25, 2015

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Comments: Ponyboy had a mistaken identity as a 5.10 for awhile.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : North Face : El Monte (5.10b R)
By: Tradoholic When: Aug 25, 2015

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Comments: I just checked out the topo in the new book, it's spot on. Wish I saw that before I climbed it!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : North Face : El Monte (5.10b R)
By: Tradoholic When: Aug 25, 2015

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Comments: I did this a bit weird. Started right of El Dorado and placed gear as high as possible to the right, then down climbed back left and then straight up to the first bolt. Two stars for P1.

On p2 I traversed right from the anchor to easy ground. I didn't notice the shiny new bolt straight up. Not a good looking pitch either way. There's not bolted anchors at the end of p2.

For p3 I chose the 5.9 option to the right also not noticing the first bolt I traversed straight right from the bolted anchor... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Left Side : Devil's Delight (5.10b R)
By: Tradoholic When: Jul 29, 2015

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Comments: P1 is a great 10a with a bolted anchor. P2 has great climbing but the bolts are SHIT! Looks like roofing nails pounded with home made aluminum hangers.


Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Above Anthrax : Solo Crack (5.5)
By: Tradoholic When: Jul 24, 2015

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Comments: I don't think so.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : Open Book Area : Flashback (5.10d)
By: Tradoholic When: Jul 4, 2015

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Comments: Hmmmm, seemed not very protectable at the start of the layback arch. I went up about 15ft then traversed across from Open Book skipping the wide part of the layback, seemed like a good call. Then did a wild stemming move to traverse up into Mechanics.


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