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Member Since: Apr 17, 2004
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 22
Total Points: 12,530
Last Year: 132
Last 30 Days: 35
352 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Tradoholic been climbing?










Contributions


All 5975 | Routes 281 | Areas 80 | Photos 1385 | Page Improvements | Comments 1595 | Posts 915 | Stars 1154 | Ratings 565
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : Sahara Terror (5.7)
By: Tradoholic When: 2 days ago

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Comments: My coveted DLFA chalk bag fell off me while on Edgehogs, probably wound up on this route somewhere. PM me if you find it please!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : Edgehogs (5.10d)
By: Tradoholic When: 2 days ago

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Comments: In whole this route is just so-so. After P4 it's pretty contrived and boring except for the 5.10 roof at the end. My advice is hop on Whodunit after P4 and then at the end jump left to do the cool juggy roof.

Details on pitches:
P1: Start as Whodunit but go farther left, through crack (piton) to a bolt with a homemade aluminum hanger, straight up to bolted belay, 10a.

P2: Money pitch. Start by laybacking the arete, then reach around the corner and onto Whodunit for a few feet, enjoy sweet slab... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : South Face - Left Side : Chingadera (5.11a)
By: Tradoholic When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Loved it but I had a totally different experience then described here. First off the Vogel/Gaines topo is a little off. The 5th bolt is directly below the 3 bolt anchor and the three bolt anchor is for suckers. I angled up and left to the 6th bolt and never touched it. I can see how people would go right at the 5th bolt but you would definitely go into no holds land. Looks like there was a flake there at one point to assist in clipping those anchors but it's gone now.

At the 6th bolt I traverse... more >>


Location: WI : The Fishin' Crag (Castle Ro... : Rusty Ring Wall
By: Tradoholic When: May 18, 2016

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Comments: Oh man Eggbert, thanks for that link and the trip down memory lane. I can tell when the snow has melted cause the MP WI posts go through the roof!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Little Hunk : Little Hunk - NE Face : ... : ZZZZZ (5.9 R)
By: Tradoholic When: May 4, 2016

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Comments: Good moves on good rock but not classic. Why the hype?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - South Face : Pope's Crack, Direct Finish (5.10b/c)
By: Tradoholic When: May 4, 2016

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Comments: Crux hold is no more flexy than anything else in JT.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Anasazi Wall : Physical Graffiti (5.10d)
By: Tradoholic When: May 4, 2016

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Comments: Good stuff, too short to do in 2 pitches, just back clean first bolt on left traverse. Still growing up and shedding some choss on the upper half. Fyi, would be very hard to rap and clean.


Location: WI : The Fishin' Crag (Castle Ro... : North Wall : Bucky's Paradise (formerly ... (5.10a)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 28, 2016

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Comments: For name I suggest "Bucky's Paradise".


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 06 - Balanced Ro... : Balanced Rock Wall : Beer and Booty (5.10a/b PG13)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 28, 2016

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Comments: If it wasn't posted on MP before...IT'S A FA!!!!!!!


Location: WI : Dudley Davis Quarry Park: S...
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 28, 2016

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Comments: Damn. I never looked there. Good find! Keep it up!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side : The Drain Pipe (5.11b)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 23, 2016

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Comments: Gnar right off the deck. I couldn't pull it, aided on a micro cam. Looking at the thin crack I ventured right into what looked like better territory to gain the base of the wide crack, ie skipped the pitons. The wide crack was fun in an old school way, had just enough gear with a C4 #4 and #5 plus 2 #3's for the wide section. Traversed left at the end, spanned the gap to gain bolts on top of a block (Clockwork Orange 10d) to rap back down to ground and our packs.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Left Side : The Man Who Fell to Earth (5.11a)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 23, 2016

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Comments: Hidden Gem! Three bolts now for the initial 5.10d section, run out to bolt #4, distinct 5.11 crux at bolt#5. If you don't feel like 5.11 slab, traverse right at bolt #3 up a ramp to two bolts and then a bolted anchor in a left facing corner, finish on Caliente (10c 2nd pitch), bolts for rap to the right.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Rainy Wednesday Tower : Orgasm Direct (5.11b) : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 15, 2016

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Comments: Shit, I remember backing off this on the OS. I re-read my comment on the main page, I called it "X"! But maybe I just got all fucked up on it, never tried again that I recall.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Pseudo Hawk's Nest : Bagatelle (5.12d R)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 9, 2016

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Comments: Holy fuck. Awesome!


Location: WI : The Fishin' Crag (Castle Ro... : North Wall : Panacea Roof (5.12b)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 4, 2016

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Comments: Anyone climb this yet?


Location: WI : The Fishin' Crag (Castle Ro...
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 4, 2016

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Comments: Sounds like damage was "near" routes but not actually to them. Yes?


Location: WI : The Fishin' Crag (Castle Ro...
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 3, 2016

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Comments: Fuzzy. Try the forums.

Just noticed the vandalism. Any routes affected?


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : Mr. Slate (5.10d)
By: Tradoholic When: Mar 27, 2016

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Comments: Indeed, there's one more bolt than indicated by Gaines/Vogel. At the 5th bolt there's a blank impasse where you grab a flake at the end of the first pitch of Human Fright. I stopped here and rapped from the HF anchors. Seemed very contrived and silly to step back out onto the face for two more bolts and 25ft of climbing. Felt right to end there.

Great and interesting climbing through the first five bolts.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Sunkist Face : Jigsaw (5.10a R)
By: Tradoholic When: Mar 25, 2016

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Comments: Yea, bolt placement sucks. Perfect bullet rock on the top half of this thing though.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Sideshow Slab : Step Right Up (5.10a)
By: Tradoholic When: Mar 25, 2016

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Comments: Pretty fun. I went left at the third bolt and clipped the first bolt on Sideshow, then traversed right. Second pitch was wet but it was pretty easy to escape left.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : The Weeping Wall : Duck Soup (5.10c PG13)
By: Tradoholic When: Mar 22, 2016

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Comments: Didn't feel anymore "R" than anything else on the wall. I hung out at the crux a bunch then took chance and went left which worked out nicely.

I clipped 3 bolts on the first pitch, the first on Revelation and the two as listed on route in the Gaines/Vogel.


Location: WI : Central Sandstone : Rattlesnake Mound : Main Cliff West : Fists and Fury (5.9+) : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Mar 16, 2016

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Comments: Lol. Yea, I think I only used one piece!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : The Valley of Kings : ... : Witch Hunt (5.10b)
By: Tradoholic When: Mar 11, 2016

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Comments: So I don't need to carry multiple books to cover the whole park. That book has the best overview of everything despite a few errors.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : The Valley of Kings : ... : Witch Hunt (5.10b)
By: Tradoholic When: Mar 10, 2016

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Comments: Huh? I wouldn't say this is close to classic. A few crimpy slab moves for about 10ft is about it. A whipping swinger from the crux didn't look fun either. Last two bolts are just about junk and unnecessary as well. (Shrugs).

BTW, pic in the the latest Mirmontes guide has this starting the same as the 12 and the positions of the bolts is off too. Start left on the crack under the arete.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : The Valley of Kings : ... : Firewater Chimney (5.10b)
By: Tradoholic When: Mar 10, 2016

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Comments: Worth the hike, unfortunately unless you climbing 5.12 not much else of high quality to do in the area.

Beautiful feature with very unique to JT climbing. I'm 6ft and found it pretty easy albeit slightly run-out. I found that you can get more comfortable by going deeper or further out depending on your height. Being comfortable with chimney is helpful. Easier than the chimney pitches on Epi in RR (5.9).


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