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Member Since: Apr 17, 2004
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 17
Total Points: 12,432
Last Year: 485
Last 30 Days: 6
297 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Tradoholic been climbing?










Contributions


All 5819 | Routes 281 | Areas 80 | Photos 1377 | Page Improvements | Comments 1537 | Posts 893 | Stars 1093 | Ratings 558
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Tumbling Rainbow Formation : Run For Your Life (5.10b R)
By: Tradoholic When: 4 days ago

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Comments: If a "R" rating is applied when the climbing "isn't hard but if you blow it you could deck" the whole damn park would be "R". The point being that this isn't a sport climb and when doing ground up stuff anywhere you should expect parts where blowing it isn't an option.

"R" nowadays doesn't mean run-out, it indicates a seriousness of the lead, with movie ratings; PG-13, R, X.

This whole "R"=Run-out thing has to die.


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Box Canyon Boulders : Cannon Boulder : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 10, 2015

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Comments: (FACEPALM)


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Left Ski Track (5.11a)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 7, 2015

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Comments: This thing is way past it's prime, pretty polished at this point and sketchy at the start. If you have a purple X4, it will plug the pocket right at the crux, good luck.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Roadside Rocks : Dihedral Rock : Happy Happy, Joy Joy (5.10a)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 7, 2015

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Comments: Fun enough, plenty of face holds around the upper crack.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - South Face : Swept Away (5.11a)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 7, 2015

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Comments: Nobody said anything about that little solo to the first gear! .1 or .2 X4 was helpful at the 2nd pitch crux. From the bolted belay I climbed up to clip the bolt then back down for the traverse.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Roadside Rocks : Dihedral Rock : Coarse and Buggy (5.11a/b)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 7, 2015

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Comments: With modern micro gear you can sew this up, without plug the pods after using them, bomber .3 C4.

Of course, a super route with good rests, use them.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Freeway Wall : Upper Freeway Wall : Sig Alert (aka Cast Up A Hi... (5.10b/c)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 9, 2014

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Comments: Finish straight up for full value, a .75 and 1 C4 will sew it up.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Freeway Wall : Upper Freeway Wall : Anacram (5.10c)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 9, 2014

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Comments: Pretty tame for 10c. A yellow DMM offset was perfect for the 2nd crux, might be a little less tame without it.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Lenticular Dome : Booglesby (5.9+ R)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 9, 2014

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Comments: Little heady over the first bolt.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall : Rainbow Buttress (5.8)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 3, 2014

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Comments: I lined 1 and 2, 3 and 4, and 6 and 7 with a 70m, (dihedral variation). Sport finish is lame but necessary.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Black Orpheus Amphitheater : There and Back Again (5.8)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 3, 2014

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Comments: Link this to a Eagle Wall route for full value, goes pretty quickly by linking pitches with a 70.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Born in Blood (V12)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 30, 2014

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Comments: V4- at Boulders Nic ;)

Most of this was TL:DR, I have real climbing to do. However, I don't think there's any argument that grades are totally inconsistent at DL. I never bouldered much there but I think from this discussion and others it's obvious.

Ian, you probably need to be more conservative with your grades, or at least be humble about it until a 2nd person sends it.

And to all of you, it's the fucking internet, try real hard to to get butt hurt. If you were climbing R/X Trad I... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : The Weeping Wall : Clam Chowder (5.10a R)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 18, 2014

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Comments: Pretty tame for 10a. I vote 5.9.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : The Weeping Wall : Ten Karat Gold (5.10a R)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 18, 2014

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Comments: Indeed "R" but I felt quite solid the whole time. The best strategy would be to keep going, just enough of a hold will appear, I promise.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side : Valhalla (5.11a)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 18, 2014

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Comments: The topo in the Vogel guide is a bit off for P2, I would describe it as: From log ledge, traverse down and right, clip a bolt then take one step right and head straight up for a bolt. From here head left, more so then the topo suggests. After exhausting the left most bolts, trend back right and straight for the anchor.

There's an errant bolt on P3 to the left, not sure what it is for. ?P3 could be considered runout.

The cruxs are short and sweet on this one, a great intro to 11 slab.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : Magical Mystery Tour (5.11c R)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 12, 2014

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Comments: I got onto this from The Glup, but P5 looked horrible so I bailed right, not sure if I was looking the right pitch, it was totally covered in lichen and I didn't see much for gear.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : The Gulp (5.9)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 12, 2014

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Comments: I linked this to the bolted belay that both Edgehogs and Magical Mystery Tour share. I attempted to finish on MMT but the 10a pitch as indicated in the book looked like a lichen filled shit show so I went right somewhere between that and Edgehogs at about 5.7, not on the topo in the Vogel book.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : Farewell Horizontal (5.10b)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 12, 2014

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Comments: Yea, good. Very well protected for a Idy face climb.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : On the Road (5.10c)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 12, 2014

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Comments: A green C3 was bomber for the crux and exiting the dihedral at the right point seemed obvious. My first pitch went beyond the first obvious belay ledge and up to a semi hanging belay just below the crux section. Yes, slightly runout after stepping out from the dihedral.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : The Weeping Wall : Sampson (5.9)
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 28, 2014

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Comments: This thing is underrated. Bring a few small pieces to sew it up. It's all feet and back friction for the dihedral. The finish mantle is by far the hardest part. What's the bolted route just right of this?


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : The Weeping Wall : Surprise (5.8 R)
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 28, 2014

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Comments: I linked 1 and 2 with a 70m no problem. Only the one distinct crux on P2 was 5.8.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Paisano Pinnacle : The Step Away (5.7)
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 28, 2014

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Comments: Fun stuff! The stemming is easy and the pro is great when you actually need it. Don't get suckered into the crack is all I have to say.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Right of the Escalator : Hair Lip (5.10a)
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 28, 2014

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Comments: With all the horror-speak I thought this would be a shit-show. The bolts are fine but a whip from the crux would definitely be awkward. You can rap this with one 70m from a tree up top.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Godzilla Face : Montezuma's Revenge (5.10b R)
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 23, 2014

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Comments: G.McCay's comment is mistaken. It goes like this...

Traverse in from the right into the small left facing corner, traverse more left on the bomber undercling for only a few feet, then try to figure out how the hell to get up and over. I shook out for around 20 minutes trying different angles until I figured out the beta. I used some mantle technique here.
After getting onto solid feet follow a thin flake and then a bumpy face to a ledge with one rusty bolt. I traversed left here to some new bo... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Right of the Escalator : Flatman Chimney (5.9)
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 23, 2014

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Comments: Get in the chimney for your first piece, then get out of the chimney in a lay-back. It's all over pretty quick.


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