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Member Since: Apr 17, 2004
Last Visit: 16 hours ago
Contact Tradoholic

Point Rank: # 22
Total Points: 12,526
Last Year: 129
Last 30 Days: 9
365 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Tradoholic been climbing?










Contributions


All 6006 | Routes 280 | Areas 79 | Photos 1386 | Page Improvements | Comments 1611 | Posts 923 | Stars 1162 | Ratings 565
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (m) The Weeping Wall : Surprise Direct (5.9 R)
By: Tradoholic When: 16 hours ago

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Comments: Yea, R. The mystery bolt out right is off-route. Should be from the three bolt anchor, past a two bolt anchor (clip if you want), single bolt, double bolts, then single bolt. Pretty standard slab climbing with some extra excitement.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (f) West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes : The Flakes (5.11)
By: Tradoholic When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Some of us are too tall for that heel hook ;)

If it's off grade (11c) for a shorter person then it's "reachy". I think this fits the bill nicely but I'm not short either. It's good to hear that a shorter person can do it but is it still 11c? I don't know, you tell me.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (f) West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes : The Flakes (5.11)
By: Tradoholic When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Yep, still reachy on P3. Has anyone under 5'10 ever pulled the move clean?

I combined P1 and P2 taking the 5.8 variation on the left, going straight up the right facing dihedral is known as 10a, will want a #3 or #4 C4 probably for that.

I had done Price of Fear before so I did the 5.7 traverse pitch, pretty fun, finishes as Vampire does.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (v) North Face
By: Tradoholic When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Seriously Sean? This isn't a sport crag, there are death blocks all over Tahquitz and Suicide. Learn to climb amongst loose stuff or don't climb anything around Idyllwild or anything in the mountains for that matter. It's your choice.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks
By: Tradoholic When: Jul 18, 2016

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Comments: I placed some webcams to check out the weather or shade conditions. Check out climbidy.com I also added a link to a bolt replacement database.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (e) Maiden Buttress : The Z Crack (5.10c PG13)
By: Tradoholic When: Jul 17, 2016

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Comments: The description is incorrect, go 30ft up a crack to small tree then traverse way LEFT not right as descibed. The traverse left is the crux, smears for feet and tricky jams, good pro though, some little bushes in the way however.

At the end of the left traverse is the small roof with a piton on its right side. The piton is ok, you could hang on it but not fall on it. If it comes out, looks like there's a sweet C3 placement in its place. Regardless there's... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (e) Maiden Buttress : Zeno's Paradox (5.10d)
By: Tradoholic When: Jul 17, 2016

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Comments: Approached from Z Crack, intial thin crack of Zeno had little bushes growing in it, super annoying! I was pulling little branches to move up, maybe you can approach from higher up on illigitimate?

Anyway, I took two #4s and a #5 but you could probably get away with one #4 if you are willing to bump it up. This gets 11a in the new Gaines book, I would vote for 10+ and only for one move on the upper slab.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake
By: Tradoholic When: Jun 29, 2016

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Comments: John. Contact Wildside store in Baraboo, there's a cheap "climbers" camp ground on Hwy 12 nearby, I can't recall the name.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (d) Northwest Recess : Whodunit (5.9)
By: Tradoholic When: Jun 27, 2016

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Comments: To expand the above statement, don't climb under anyone left of Super Pooper, it's a choss show all over the upper North Face. Better would be if everyone could be more careful all over the mountain and not knock anything off in the first place. Been all over the damn thing and never knocked a rock loose ever myself.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (f) West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes : The Vampire (5.11a)
By: Tradoholic When: Jun 18, 2016

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Comments: I felt that the Bat Crack was the hardest pitch! 2nd pitch crux is just a few thin moves then jugs. I did the 10d crux on the 3rd pitch I think, pretty stright forward once I figured out the beta. Enjoy!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (d) Northwest Recess : Special K (5.10d R)
By: Tradoholic When: Jun 18, 2016

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Comments: A defnite heads up R to the first bolt. Then use magic or levitation to float the uber slab crux. The finishing roof is kinda awkward but a nice relief for your burning feet.


Location: WI : The Fishin' Crag (Castle Ro... : Rusty Ring Wall : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Jun 2, 2016

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Comments: JON, YOU ARE NOT STRONG ENOUGH TO CLIMB THIS ROUTE AND THEREFORE HAVE NO RIGHT TO COMMENT ON THE RED TAG STATUS!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (o) Right of the Escalator : Hair Lip (5.10a)
By: Tradoholic When: May 29, 2016

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Comments: This has claimed yet another ankle. My partner took a whip from the crux and slammed the slab pretty good. Not broke but tweaked for sure. Watch out!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (u) Northeast Buttress : Flakes of Wrath (5.10c R)
By: Tradoholic When: May 29, 2016

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Comments: Tricky to get into the start. Sewed it up and milked a great kneebar halfway. Sweet!

Onlt "R" for P2 which is very skip-able.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (u) Northeast Buttress : Etude (5.11a)
By: Tradoholic When: May 29, 2016

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Comments: Awesome route, I felt a bit runout over the now single pin, there were placements between the pin and the rest but stopping would have taken more energy than it was worth!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (d) Northwest Recess : The Souvenir (5.10d R)
By: Tradoholic When: May 29, 2016

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Comments: In full better than Edgehogs but the crux pitch of Edgehogs is a better single pitch. I chose the 10b version going basically straight up from the 4th bolt on the 3rd pitch, rather than 10d traverse to the left.

The 2nd pitch roof was pretty cool, do it.


Location: WI : The Fishin' Crag (Castle Ro... : Amphitheater Wall : Whitney's Chimney (5.9)
By: Tradoholic When: May 26, 2016

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Comments: Feel free to massacre any birds in the way of your climbing.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (d) Northwest Recess : Sahara Terror (5.7)
By: Tradoholic When: May 23, 2016

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Comments: My coveted DLFA chalk bag fell off me while on Edgehogs, probably wound up on this route somewhere. PM me if you find it please!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (d) Northwest Recess : Edgehogs (5.10d)
By: Tradoholic When: May 23, 2016

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Comments: In whole this route is just so-so. After P4 it's pretty contrived and boring except for the 5.10 roof at the end. My advice is hop on Whodunit after P4 and then at the end jump left to do the cool juggy roof.

Details on pitches:
P1: Start as Whodunit but go farther left, through crack (piton) to a bolt with a homemade aluminum hanger, straight up to bolted belay, 10a.

P2: Money pitch. Start by laybacking the arete, then reach around the corner and onto Whodunit for a few feet, enjoy sweet slab... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (i) South Face : South Face - Left Side : Chingadera (5.11a)
By: Tradoholic When: May 21, 2016

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Comments: Loved it but I had a totally different experience then described here. First off the Vogel/Gaines topo is a little off. The 5th bolt is directly below the 3 bolt anchor and the three bolt anchor is for suckers. I angled up and left to the 6th bolt and never touched it. I can see how people would go right at the 5th bolt but you would definitely go into no holds land. Looks like there was a flake there at one point to assist in clipping those anchors but it's gone now.

At the 6th bolt I traverse... more >>


Location: WI : The Fishin' Crag (Castle Ro... : Rusty Ring Wall
By: Tradoholic When: May 18, 2016

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Comments: Oh man Eggbert, thanks for that link and the trip down memory lane. I can tell when the snow has melted cause the MP WI posts go through the roof!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Little Hunk : Little Hunk - NE Face : ... : ZZZZZ (5.9 R)
By: Tradoholic When: May 4, 2016

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Comments: Good moves on good rock but not classic. Why the hype?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - South Face : Pope's Crack, Direct Finish (5.10b/c)
By: Tradoholic When: May 4, 2016

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Comments: Crux hold is no more flexy than anything else in JT.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Anasazi Wall : Physical Graffiti (5.10d)
By: Tradoholic When: May 4, 2016

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Comments: Good stuff, too short to do in 2 pitches, just back clean first bolt on left traverse. Still growing up and shedding some choss on the upper half. Fyi, would be very hard to rap and clean.


Location: WI : The Fishin' Crag (Castle Ro... : North Wall : Bucky's Paradise (formerly ... (5.10a)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 28, 2016

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Comments: For name I suggest "Bucky's Paradise".


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