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Member Since: Apr 17, 2004
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 16
Total Points: 12,409
Last Year: 481
Last 30 Days: 58
286 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Tradoholic been climbing?










Contributions


All 5761 | Routes 281 | Areas 80 | Photos 1377 | Page Improvements | Comments 1514 | Posts 883 | Stars 1069 | Ratings 557
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Godzilla Face : Montezuma's Revenge (5.10b R)
By: Tradoholic When: 10 hours ago

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Comments: G.McCay's comment is mistaken. It goes like this...

Traverse in from the right into the small left facing corner, traverse more left on the bomber undercling for only a few feet, then try to figure out how the hell to get up and over. I shook out for around 20 minutes trying different angles until I figured out the beta. I used some mantle technique here.
After getting onto solid feet follow a thin flake and then a bumpy face to a ledge with one rusty bolt. I traversed left here to some new bo... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Right of the Escalator : Flatman Chimney (5.9)
By: Tradoholic When: 10 hours ago

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Comments: Get in the chimney for your first piece, then get out of the chimney in a lay-back. It's all over pretty quick.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face Left Side : Paisano Chimney (5.8)
By: Tradoholic When: 11 hours ago

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Comments: After the squeeze belay from two bolts on top of the next block. You can rap from here or go up wide chimney and take Eyes Wide Shut 5.7 to the top. EWS starts in the wide chimney with a stem, clips one bolt, surmounts the ledge then goes to the arete for one more bolt.

#5 C4 is great for the off-width.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : North Face : Grace Slick (5.10b PG13)
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 8, 2014

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Comments: I liked P1. P2 was like floating up nothing through the crux which was fun but A. the line skipped the obvious weakness up and right through a thin crack so it was a bit contrived and B. it headed for a third bolt then abruptly angled left to the finish anchors when it would have been better to go straight up a nice crack to finish on newer anchors on the right or just keep going for the summit. Anyway, bring a few small cams to finish up a 5.8 crack for P2, it's sweet.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : The Haunting (V8)
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 2, 2014

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Comments: A cool variation is turning around three times before starting. I call it "The Spins" V9


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northeast Buttress : Upper Northeast Buttress : My Pink Half of the Drainpi... (5.10c)
By: Tradoholic When: Sep 26, 2014

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Comments: Rad line, takes some gear know-how to keep the rope drag down. Not too hard either, 10a.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : North Face : Too Biased (5.9 R)
By: Tradoholic When: Sep 26, 2014

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Comments: Continue to the top for some more nice climbing. For P4 I zigged right to start then straight up through a roof right over a tree. Moves over the roof seem improbable but they go nicely.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : Toe Tip (5.9)
By: Tradoholic When: Sep 26, 2014

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Comments: The first pitch is a nice way to get to the jungle but the second pitch is a total contrivance.


Location: MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Palisade Head : Oz - (AKA The Road To Emera... (5.12b) : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Sep 19, 2014

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Comments: This pic is so midwest.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : North Face : Greasy Kid Stuff (5.10a R)
By: Tradoholic When: Sep 17, 2014

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Comments: Maybe a green C3 will work in the upper horizontal.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : The North Buttress : North Buttress (5.5)
By: Tradoholic When: Sep 16, 2014

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Comments: Start in a nice right facing corner, heading into some trees.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : Steinke Basin Bouldering : Steinke Wall : ... : Heineken Crack (V2)
By: Tradoholic When: Sep 16, 2014

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Comments: WTF? People climb here?!!?


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Eagle Pinnacle : After the Gold Rush (5.7)
By: Tradoholic When: Aug 29, 2014

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Comments: Name changed, thanks Bob. Definitely wasn't 5.9!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Eagle Pinnacle : Razor's Edge (5.9)
By: Tradoholic When: Aug 27, 2014

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Comments: No bats but plenty of lizards. Yea, that's a thin flake!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Eagle Pinnacle
By: Tradoholic When: Aug 27, 2014

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Comments: There's three random bolts on the top, none set for rappel, I left a sling and locker on one to do three raps down to the ground.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Right of the Escalator : The Breeze (5.10a R)
By: Tradoholic When: Aug 27, 2014

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Comments: Not R. I finished on the 5.7 end of The Jackal.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : North Face : Northeast Farce (5.3)
By: Tradoholic When: Aug 27, 2014

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Comments: The topo in the guide book doesn't quite scale as to how far you need to go in the dihedral. The traverse should start on a decent foot ledge with a piton in the middle at foot level. The traverse does go no hands for a move or two but is pretty chill.
From the top of the wide crack on P2 you should go more or less straight up passing two old bolts just right of a flake.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Bonamici Arete(aka Tequila) (V3 PG13)
By: Tradoholic When: Aug 7, 2014

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Comments: "Bonameathead Arete"?


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : Blankety Blank (5.10c)
By: Tradoholic When: Aug 7, 2014

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Comments: Second pitch crux bolt is still junk. 3rd pitch bolt isn't so great either so I bailed right after clipping. Funny that the badly needed crux bolts on this route haven't been replaced but all the others have.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : Switchbacks, Direct Start (5.8 PG13)
By: Tradoholic When: Aug 7, 2014

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Comments: Heading right to a second bolt is the route Betty, 5.10a.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : North Face : West Lark (5.5) : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Jul 29, 2014

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Comments: Right-o Brent. I've changed the description.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Summit Block : Big Daddy (5.10c)
By: Tradoholic When: Jul 17, 2014

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Comments: The start is sketch!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Summit Block : Upside Down Cake (5.10b)
By: Tradoholic When: Jul 17, 2014

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Comments: Fun! Crux is the last move, #4 good to have, #5 too but not mandatory.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : The North Buttress : Lip Up Fatty (5.8 PG13)
By: Tradoholic When: Jul 17, 2014

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Comments: The topo in the Vogel+Gaines book is definitely off for a large portion of this buttress. From the "JTree Ledge" for this route I tried to enter the "alcove" as described in the book but it looked totally whack so I continued left past a small tree to bypass a roof with a old nut (with cord) fixed at the base. Pulled the roof (fun and exposed) and wandered a bit left to an obvious exit toward the top.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Rebolting Face : Goliath (5.7)
By: Tradoholic When: Jun 25, 2014

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Comments: OMG, do yourself a favor and use the lip at the start of the chimney, left foot on slap right foot and hands on lip, WAY easier! Follow a bomber flake into the wider part of the chimney and then enjoy. Runout but easy chimney from there.


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