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Member Since: Apr 17, 2004
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 17
Total Points: 12,444
Last Year: 331
Last 30 Days: 6
306 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Tradoholic been climbing?










Contributions


All 5839 | Routes 281 | Areas 80 | Photos 1377 | Page Improvements | Comments 1549 | Posts 892 | Stars 1101 | Ratings 559
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Railroad Track... : Horse Rampart : Via Apia (5.7)
By: Tradoholic When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Rhoads knows!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Limp Dick : Five Tree (5.3)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 9, 2015

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Comments: I wasn't seeing this at all, does the tree still exist?


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Limp Dick : Limp Dick (5.10a)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 9, 2015

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Comments: The bolt for the mantle is probably original and looks like it would never hold a fall.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face Left Side : B.C.'s Ouch Chimney (5.9)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 8, 2015

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Comments: I have twice now bailed off this thing. First because the initial chimney was insecure and second because I ran out of suitable gear 3/4 up. The gear is all there but I swear I could have used triples of .3 to 1 C4. I used a #4 and #5 as well. Everything is flaring and it certainly doesn't inspire confidence in your moves or gear.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes : The Price of Fear (5.10c)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 8, 2015

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Comments: I think I used magic to do the finish slab.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : The Summit Area : The Headless Horseman (5.11+ V6)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 3, 2015

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Comments: There's no direct translation V-Scale to YDS. I would imagine the reason is that on TR it feels 5.11+, but way up above pads it's going V6-ish.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : IRS Wall : Alf's Arete (5.11a)
By: Tradoholic When: Feb 13, 2015

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Comments: How it was done originally aside, this climb is brilliant! There's an old button head next to a newer bolt that should probably get yanked and patched.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Imaginary Voyage Formation : Imaginary Voyage (5.10d)
By: Tradoholic When: Feb 13, 2015

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Comments: One of my favorites at Jtree. The starting lay back is a bear!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jackrabbit Buttress : Geronimo (5.6)
By: Tradoholic When: Feb 13, 2015

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Comments: We rapped the route almost directly. The gully rap is out of date.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Unimpeachable Groping (5.10+)
By: Tradoholic When: Feb 13, 2015

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Comments: The pitches have changed over time, my take with a 70m:

-P1 to the chains.
-P2 past the chains to the ledge.
-P3 through the roof past two anchors to a third anchor.
-P4 short pitch to final chains then rap or go up 5.8 pitch.


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Box Canyon Boulders : Mustache Boulder : Midwest Mustache Ride (V4)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 31, 2015

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Comments: A G Dodge CLASSIC!


Location: CO : Mountain Project is hiring ...
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 24, 2015

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Comments: It would be great if you hired a few rock climber content developers to clean up/fix and add routes!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Tumbling Rainbow Formation : Run For Your Life (5.10b R)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 20, 2015

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Comments: If a "R" rating is applied when the climbing "isn't hard but if you blow it you could deck" the whole damn park would be "R". The point being that this isn't a sport climb and when doing ground up stuff anywhere you should expect parts where blowing it isn't an option.

"R" nowadays doesn't mean run-out, it indicates a seriousness of the lead, with movie ratings; PG-13, R, X.

This whole "R"=Run-out thing has to die.


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Box Canyon Boulders : Cannon Boulder : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 10, 2015

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Comments: (FACEPALM)


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Left Ski Track (5.11a)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 7, 2015

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Comments: This thing is way past it's prime, pretty polished at this point and sketchy at the start. If you have a purple X4, it will plug the pocket right at the crux, good luck.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Roadside Rocks : Dihedral Rock : Happy Happy, Joy Joy (5.10a)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 7, 2015

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Comments: Fun enough, plenty of face holds around the upper crack.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - South Face : Swept Away (5.11a)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 7, 2015

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Comments: Nobody said anything about that little solo to the first gear! .1 or .2 X4 was helpful at the 2nd pitch crux. From the bolted belay I climbed up to clip the bolt then back down for the traverse.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Roadside Rocks : Dihedral Rock : Coarse and Buggy (5.11a/b)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 7, 2015

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Comments: With modern micro gear you can sew this up, without plug the pods after using them, bomber .3 C4.

Of course, a super route with good rests, use them.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Freeway Wall : Upper Freeway Wall : Sig Alert (aka Cast Up A Hi... (5.10b/c)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 9, 2014

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Comments: Finish straight up for full value, a .75 and 1 C4 will sew it up.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Freeway Wall : Upper Freeway Wall : Anacram (5.10c)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 9, 2014

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Comments: Pretty tame for 10c. A yellow DMM offset was perfect for the 2nd crux, might be a little less tame without it.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Lenticular Dome : Booglesby (5.9+ R)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 9, 2014

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Comments: Little heady over the first bolt.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall : Rainbow Buttress (5.8)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 3, 2014

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Comments: I lined 1 and 2, 3 and 4, and 6 and 7 with a 70m, (dihedral variation). Sport finish is lame but necessary.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Black Orpheus Amphitheater : There and Back Again (5.8)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 3, 2014

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Comments: Link this to a Eagle Wall route for full value, goes pretty quickly by linking pitches with a 70.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Born in Blood (V12)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 30, 2014

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Comments: V4- at Boulders Nic ;)

Most of this was TL:DR, I have real climbing to do. However, I don't think there's any argument that grades are totally inconsistent at DL. I never bouldered much there but I think from this discussion and others it's obvious.

Ian, you probably need to be more conservative with your grades, or at least be humble about it until a 2nd person sends it.

And to all of you, it's the fucking internet, try real hard to to get butt hurt. If you were climbing R/X Trad I... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : The Weeping Wall : Clam Chowder (5.10a R)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 18, 2014

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Comments: Pretty tame for 10a. I vote 5.9.


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