Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Jul 17, 2006
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact reboot


Point Rank: # 3,383
Total Points: 131
Last Year: 3
Last 30 Days: 1
13 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has reboot been climbing?










Contributions


All 548 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 13 | Page Improvments | Comments 36 | Posts 446 | Stars 41 | Ratings 9
Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Plumb Line Crag : Big Pink (5.11b)
By: reboot When: Jul 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: ^^^^^^
Almost two years later, Bob poked his head above the route & remarked: "That's the hardest 5.11 in the world." Couldn't have made this up myself, lol.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : The Spoils (5.12b)
By: reboot When: Aug 29, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Warning: if you are belaying someone on lead, anchor yourself and/or make sure the climber does not skip the bomber #0.5 Camalot placement right off the ledge. Otherwise, if all the gear rips, there is a very good chance both of you will tumble down the ledge.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Backporch : Five Year Plan aka Space Ti... (5.13a/b)
By: reboot When: Aug 20, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: If you turn the roof & then go up & right a bit, there is a 2 bolt anchor. Wouldn't help you back clean all the gear on the route, but at least the route concludes at a logical point/stance.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Washington Column : Astroman (5.11c)
By: reboot When: Jul 22, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Did this in 95 degree heat. My 2 cents: the runout finish is worth a footnote mention at most, same with the Harding slot, IF you do not have a thick torso. For me, at the narrowest part (toward the top), my chest was so compressed that I could only take 1/4 breathes. Using either arms or legs didn't work as the chest/hip muscle would lock me in the slot. I ended up emptying my lung & slithering side to side & scrapped the shit out of my back. It was the most unpleasant experience I've had climb... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Downpressor Man (5.12b)
By: reboot When: Aug 28, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Those who complain about reach should know how tall the OP is (probably shorter than you!). Regardless, it doesn't climb that well if you are short (ends being more about how strong the fingers are than any semblance of balance & technique).


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Wizard's Gate : Cloak and Dagger (5.13b)
By: reboot When: Jul 22, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: The loose flake right of the 3rd bolt is completely gone now. This significantly changes the right "variation", if still possible. Regardless of how one gets past the 3rd bolt, the traverse is probably a bit harder now that the broken flake eliminated a good foot hold. Maybe it's 13c again?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Cosmosis (5.9+)
By: reboot When: Jun 5, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Found a set of nuts 8 ft off the ledge. Seem to have been there for a while (and a little blood stained). Describe correctly and they shall be returned.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Vasodilator (5.13a)
By: reboot When: May 4, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: The "death block" appears to flex a lot more than just a few months ago (I can feel the thing move even when standing directly on it). It probably should be dealt soon (maybe it'll survive this summer but probably not through the winter). The route would still go (and in worst case will make climbing through bolt 6 & 7 pumpier, but you can recover @ bolt 8) without (significantly) changing the overall grade. I don't have a drill, but I'd be happy to help?

A similarly sized block to clip the anc... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Wunsch's Dihedral (5.11)
By: reboot When: Dec 12, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Tommey, the cam was still there 12/10. The bad news (for you) is we left it, as it's a good belay piece (with 1st bolt of P4) for those with no wide gear left at top of P3. It didn't look very stuck at all though, so get back on it!

As for the rap, I remember there used to be a nest of gear on Center Route, so you can do 4 raps with a 70m (now about the only thing 70m is good for is linking P2 & P3). Try to hand traverse a bit on the 2nd rap Phil described to get to P3 of Turf Spreader@SEMICOLO... more >>


Location: International : Asia : China : Guangxi Province : YangShuo
By: reboot When: Aug 19, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: A few things about the description:

Air Asia and some other local carriers fly into Guangzhou, often at very cheap rates.

Guangzhou isn't all that close to Yangshuo. You can fly into Guilin, the neighboring city, from any major city in China (Beijing, Shanghai Hongkong, etc), Bangkok, Singapore, and probably a few others.

Itís next to impossible to Ďwing ití with an attempt at Cantonese or Mandarin.

Of course you can't wing it in Cantonese. You are in Guangxi, not Guangdo... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : Boys with Power Toys (5.12b)
By: reboot When: Jun 20, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: A good route that rewards technique more than brawn. More interesting move than many other routes on this wall.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Dinosaur Rock
By: reboot When: Jun 5, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Was up there 6/4/11. With the Rifle flooding closure, I encountered 15-20 (including myself) people at the crag on 4 routes. A bit crowded yes, but what worried me was the noise everyone (myself included) generated. Some hikers came down and inquired me about whether there was an accident (probably from an agonizing unsend). What I'm trying to say is as the crag is right off the trail, it would behoove everyone to be discrete while there.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Dinosaur Rock : Milk Bone (5.13a)
By: reboot When: Jun 5, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Awesome route with a cool crux and very intricate body movement/positioning above. Yes, the business is only about 3-4 bolts long, but it really packs a punch. I thought it's slightly harder and better than the neighboring Ultrasaurus (thought the 2 have very different style).


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : s00kr33m (5.13b)
By: reboot When: Jun 5, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Tried the route 6/5. I don't know Kaelen, and while I think one star is a bit harsh, it certainly doesn't compare to either 13s on Dino Rock. The crux moves may deserve 13-, but they aren't particular interesting. The rest of the route is actually pretty good, but I can see why someone wanting to get on a 13 would be disappointed.

Edit:
Went back again today, it actually climbed better the second time around. Crux required pretty subtle body position if the route is at your limit.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Never a Dull Moment (5.12b PG13)
By: reboot When: Aug 13, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: Adam, I've not been back on the route since you & I were there. I shameless took the grade from Rossiter's book; how am I to judge what the grade of the original traverse is if I haven't been able to do it? Still, I don't think doing the traverse would add any pump to the rest of the route. In that respect, I'd think Evictor is much harder.

This is the only climb (original traverse) I've been on where I think I'd have a better chance of making the move if I strap some weights on my an... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Scary Canary (5.12b/c R)
By: reboot When: May 20, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: Well, that bolt at end of P1 is still hard to clip for me. I'm 5'6" and actually need to do 2-3 extra moves just to start P1. Although being not very tall and quite flexible made P2 feel easier than the grade (so 12a for P1 and 12a/b for P2?). Two very cool (and different) pitches of the same route!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Doub-Griffith (5.11c)
By: reboot When: May 16, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: wcurudy - it most definitely is.
Really unfortunate, as it is a cool route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Parallels (5.11b)
By: reboot When: Apr 20, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: Felt quite a bit easier than Foxtrot. The gear also does not get in the way nearly as much. A fine route though.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : The Evictor (5.12c R)
By: reboot When: Apr 13, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: The crux for me is before the finger/tip jams. The rests on this route are decent enough that I'd call this 5.12 leading in project style (i.e. with all the move/gear beta). Onsight/flash would be much more difficult.

Not sure where the R rating comes from (pre cam days?) The route accepts mix of good active and passive gear.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Rigid Designator Amphitheat... : The Fang (WI5-6)
By: reboot When: Jan 26, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: Looks like it touched down (viewed from I-70) but thin.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Camouflage (5.12b)
By: reboot When: Jan 16, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: Saw a strong climber going directly onto the arete and got it clean last weekend. He said it was a lot harder than going to the right but didn't elaborate on the grade.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : Stoned Oven (5.11c) : Photo
By: reboot When: Aug 30, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: The exit is the right-leaning crack (5.9) in the picture.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : Stoned Oven (5.11c)
By: reboot When: Aug 30, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: splattipus:
So you were the one that sent us off route (and made me repeatedly fall & take), huh? The cams were left there, as they'd serve as scary but passable rap anchor. I noticed as I went through the right-curving flake and traversing back to almost directly above the cam anchor that there was a more direct looking (and easier) line starting just left of the cam anchor. It had a slight right curve, which would be consistent with the topo. Since nowhere else on the route had what felt like ... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : Stoned Oven (5.11c)
By: reboot When: Aug 17, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: To add to theREALangry's comments:

Loose rocks: they are everywhere...it is the Black. End of P3: there are HUGE blocks right of the nut+sling anchor that are not supported on much. If possible, climb directly under the anchor. End of P11: depending on how you arrive at the ledge, there are large blocks that flexes. The only saving grace is that, at either location, you are unlikely to kill your belayer if you pull them loose.

P5: Belay right above, below or higher above the 11b roof problem, ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Joke Crack to Superstone (5.11a R)
By: reboot When: Jul 29, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: This would be a three-star route IF the wall and the easy crack forming the start of purple haze weren't there. But as it is, it felt very contrived. Without using the "easy" crack and stemming the wall for rest, this felt like a 10, but then again, one must use it to get started...


Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>