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Tackling the lip pull on Flying Buttress Direct


Member Since: Apr 27, 2008
Last Visit: Apr 13, 2014
Contact rdlennon


Point Rank: # 240
Total Points: 2,245
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has rdlennon been climbing?










Contributions


All 600 | Routes 97 | Areas 18 | Photos 195 | Page Improvements | Comments 30 | Posts 14 | Stars 187 | Ratings 59
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: MA : Cape Ann : The Approach Boulder : Good V2 (V3)
By: rdlennon When: Nov 19, 2010

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Comments: Can a mod delete this problem? It is correctly represented elsewhere on the page.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : The Spider's Web : Slim Pickins (5.9+)
By: rdlennon When: May 13, 2010

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Comments: The crux is best protected with a small rp in a slot. As I recall, there's a good cam about two feet below that, but it might be a good idea to use the nut to keep it PG.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Storm Boulders : Downward Spiral (V8)
By: rdlennon When: Apr 25, 2010

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Comments: Tim Kemple FA


Location: NH : Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Left : Man With a Hueco in His Tig... (5.11b)
By: rdlennon When: Aug 29, 2009

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Comments: The presence of the block makes this otherwise excellent route a bit contrived. The entire crux basically amounts to a sit start to the real route, since you can stem or step onto the block at any point. The whole thing is fun, but it's weird having to call a part of it 'off'.


Location: International : Europe : Slovenia : Bled
By: rdlennon When: May 5, 2009

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Comments: More specific directions: trains and buses routinely leave for Jesenice, an unappealing city on the Austrian border. They all stop in Lesce, which is about 5km from Bled and 2km from some of the first crags. All in all, within a 10km radius of the town of Bled are over a dozen crags of various sizes, most with high quality limestone.


Location: MA : Redrock and vicinity : Zipper (5.5)
By: rdlennon When: Mar 20, 2009

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Comments: This would be a noted classic if it were anywhere else. As it is, one of the best routes at the grade in the region.


Location: PA : South Central PA : Shaffer Rocks (The Hermitag... : Main Wall : Spider Man Indirect (5.10a)
By: rdlennon When: Mar 20, 2009

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Comments: All these Spider Man climbs finish on the same bit, and there are two bolts up there. They have old hangers and are cemented in place, but might be handy for a quick bail. Don't TR on them. Also, the Spider Man climbs go trad. R to the crack then fine afterwards.


Location: PA : Southeastern Lowlands : Birdsboro Quarry
By: rdlennon When: Mar 20, 2009

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Comments: Sweet, thanks. I've been looking for info on individual routes here for years. If you've climbed/seen them, would you mind listing distinguishing features, i.e. crack, corner, etc.


Location: NH : Square Ledge (Pinkham Notch... : Photo
By: rdlennon When: Mar 1, 2009

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Comments: Perfect view of Pinnacle Gully in the background, too. Both great routes!


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : Photo
By: rdlennon When: Feb 2, 2009

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Comments: Owler Tor is the little outcrop above the larger Millstone Edge. Out of frame to the right are Froggat and Curbar edges.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : Toe Crack (5.7)
By: rdlennon When: Jan 17, 2009

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Comments: Hm, on pitch 1, I think the crux is before you reach Turner's, on the hand traverse once the ramp ends. And as you approach the belay ledge, it is helpful to place as high in the crack as possible so as to protect the second, then downclimb it to the ledge.


Location: AL : Temp HP40 : God Module (V11+) : Photo
By: rdlennon When: Dec 1, 2008

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Comments: This looks like Short Long. I might be wrong, but I don't think it's God Module. Not that I've spent much time trying it.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Upper Cliff : The Roof (5.7)
By: rdlennon When: Nov 26, 2008

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Comments: Start is the crux. The crack in the dihedral is full of dirt (as of early fall 08), so jamming isn't really an option. Using the face holds I think bumps the grade up a tad. The roof section is way easy compared to the first 15 feet.


Location: MA : Denrock : Remnants
By: rdlennon When: Nov 23, 2008

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Comments: This is actually a pretty decent boulder with a series of moderate problems great for beginners or warming up. It's between 10 and 15 feet high and around 50 feet long. It is packed with jugs, overhangs, and other fun features. Worth a go.


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : Stanage Edge
By: rdlennon When: Nov 17, 2008

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Comments: The Rockfax guide is a great resource for locating routes and determining grades. There are not many pictures and the descriptions aren't comprehensive, however. Best to buy a guidebook (Stanage: The Definitive Guide is the best) once you get to the UK.


Location: NH : Square Ledge (Pinkham Notch...
By: rdlennon When: Nov 10, 2008

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Comments: For those looking to boulder as well as climb some of these great routes, there is a very nice schist boulder near the base of the main face, just right of the approach trail. Reminiscent of Rumney, this boulder has several moderate lines (V0-V5) that follow aretes and rails using crimps. The right hand side of the tallest face has an excellent problem (anyone know names?) and the slab on the back has some crimpy face problems. There is a smaller boulder nearby that could be cleaned.


Location: AL : Temp HP40 : Kind Flake (V3) : Photo
By: rdlennon When: Nov 3, 2008

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Comments: All right, there's my evidence. Kind Flake it is. Better name IMO.


Location: SD : Rock Maze : South Central Rocks : Little Monster (V13+ X) : Photo
By: rdlennon When: Oct 24, 2008

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Comments: Yeah, you can barely see the 60-foot roof that leads into the mantle. I think some people aren't taking this problem seriously.


Location: ME : Shagg Crag : The Great Escape (5.10d)
By: rdlennon When: Oct 21, 2008

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Comments: I should emphasize what the otherwise excellent description doesn't- that literally every single hold on this climb is an immense jug. If you're able to move quickly and fight the pump, you could redpoint the climb if you don't even climb 5.10. Most of the individual moves are super easy.


Location: CT : CT Bouldering : Lemon Boulder
By: rdlennon When: Oct 17, 2008

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Comments: Bogus. I saw a slew of V11s on this amazing boulder in CT, only to be let down. Rocks like this are a dime a dozen. Respect to your FAs, but making this seem like a destination or 'testpiece central' is misleading.


Location: MA : Denrock : Building Blocks
By: rdlennon When: Oct 16, 2008

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Comments: Access Inner Walls via a tunnel below the rightmost building block. Routes in this area are either very moderate or very contrived. Best suited for soloing or bouldering at the base.


Location: AL : Temp HP40 : God Module (V11+)
By: rdlennon When: Oct 15, 2008

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Comments: James Litz made the FA


Location: MA : Denrock : City Dump
By: rdlennon When: Oct 10, 2008

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Comments: This overhanging, boulderable face is Den Rock's biggest draw. Many local climbers come here after work or on weekends to train on the gym-like crag. City Dump comprises a left-hand face full of moderate problems, a central overhang full of hard eliminates, and a tall, mostly blank, right face. The overhang is where the money is, and there are many problems that start low on an excellent jug and pop out the bulge on fun crimpers, sidepulls, and even slopers. Several very strong Rumney climbers a... more >>


Location: MA : Denrock : City Park
By: rdlennon When: Oct 10, 2008

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Comments: This crag is a chossfest. Don't climb here. There is a reason Dave Roberts didn't install anchors above it. However, above the crag is a small but worthy boulder with moderate slab problems. To the right of City Park is the main walk off for City Dump, FK, and Petroleum.


Location: NH : Square Ledge (Pinkham Notch... : Standard Route (5.4)
By: rdlennon When: Oct 10, 2008

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Comments: It's fun to walk up towards the ledge behind a family or camp group, then solo Standard Route while they take the hiker's trail around. They never fail to show utter bewilderment.


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