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Member Since: Nov 15, 2012
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 9,937
Total Points: 21
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 27 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvments | Comments 21 | Posts | Stars 2 | Ratings 4
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Reno - Carson City : River Rock - Upstream Crag : FM a.k.a. F*%K Me (5.10)
By: RDA When: Feb 13, 2014

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Comments: I never rated it 11 C,, i thought it might be 11. That was from distant memory of the fa in the late 70s..


Location: NV : Reno - Carson City : Dinosaur Rock : Edge of Doom (5.11c)
By: RDA When: Sep 28, 2013

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Comments: EOD is the outside arete/face, and lizard king is the inside arete face..


Location: NV : Reno - Carson City : Iron Butte : Grip Master (5.10b)
By: RDA When: Sep 28, 2013

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Comments: BWAAAAHHAHAAAA! Great to know i still live in your rather empty head mathew (psycho) moore.. Now go FUKK yur self eh...Must still be pissed that your ways got you booted off Supertopo.. BWAAAAAhahahahahahahahahahahahahahahhaahahahahahahhhhahaaaaaaaa...




Location: NV : Reno - Carson City : Dinosaur Rock : Deadman's Rappel (5.7)
By: RDA When: Sep 22, 2013

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Comments: Regarding Deadmans Rappel which on this site some are calling the gash,,,, A rather SERIOUS accident occurred on this climb recently. The large block just up and left of the first bolt was pulled off by a climber off route, resulting in broken arms and an amputated leg.

This block had bee messed with prior to the accident by someone gardening the squaw tea brush around it, which then loosened the block which by pics provided had begun to lean outward. The dirt and rubble holding it in place be... more >>


Location: NV : Reno - Carson City : Dinosaur Rock
By: RDA When: Sep 22, 2013

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Comments: Regarding Deadmans Rappel which on this site some are calling the gash,,,, A rather SERIOUS accident occurred on this climb recently. The large block just up and left of the first bolt was pulled off by a climber off route, resulting in broken arms and an amputated leg.

This block had bee messed with prior to the accident by someone gardening the squaw tea brush around it, which then loosened the block which by pics provided had begun to lean outward. The dirt and rubble holding it in plac... more >>


Location: NV : Reno - Carson City : Cave Rock
By: RDA When: Sep 22, 2013

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Comments: RIP Cave..

Sadly closed, bolts removed, now sets stagnant. MOST of the Washoe tribe had thought the clean up and "patio" creation By Dano was a GOOD thing. Only a few elders were the issue.

Yet another issue was that the tribe SOLD the rock to NDOT so they could blast the highway through it. NDOT refused to enter the frey. I had previously along with help from others , revmoved all the climbs that could be seen or were above the highway lanes as requested by NDOT before the closing .... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Archangel (5.12c)
By: RDA When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: Mr. Byrne, worry not that Mr. Long has spoken up here. This is about more than just one retrobolted route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Archangel (5.12c)
By: RDA When: Jul 24, 2013

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Comments: Someone send this retrobolter a bottle of calcium pills so he can develop a spine... and fer gawd's sake, take his DRILL away....

Never mind someone in 1988 did it with less refined shoes and equipment. Go ahead and fell good about DUMMING it down to the modern level...fekkin' punters....


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Hogsback : Hogsback (north face) : Dancing Feet (5.10d R)
By: RDA When: Jun 15, 2013

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Comments: Well, im in this small club on dancin footers.

concur of the small wired stuff, it will add psyche pro when that is just enough to keep in a dancin.. Contrived? Perhaps, but then so are a few pothers there. I personally saw "leads" of no pro done by a few heady dudes bitd. Through the blankest spots on the back. "Sawll gud"...

Youll be soooo thankfull to clip those ol leepers...


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Hogsback : Hogsback (north face) : Manic Depressive Direct (5.5)
By: RDA When: Jun 14, 2013

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Comments: This climb is actually called "Hog Flake" , i was one of the FA party in 1977 along with Greg Bergren . It starts to the right of the large tree in an arching expanding flake- then into thin cracks eventually reaching the 2nd belay stance of wave rider. We rated it 5.7


Location: NV : Reno - Carson City : Iron Butte : Red Beard (5.7)
By: RDA When: Jun 6, 2013

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Comments: no there arent "convenience anchors" for some routes here. There ARE convenient cracks and placements or slingable blocks however. We are climbers, we know how to do these things ...


Location: NV : Reno - Carson City : Iron Butte : Grip Master (5.10b)
By: RDA When: Jun 6, 2013

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Comments: Left handed by chance? lol!;-)


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : The Fortress : Red Pillar Area : The Red Pillar (5.9)
By: RDA When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: Just around the corner right of Red Pillar is "First Crux" a nice short 5.9 clean crack and layback.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : Apron Crags : The Apron : West wall route (5.11a/b)
By: RDA When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: The ol 1/4 incher bolts on this route were recently replaced by Kenny T.
Nice new 3/8 are now there in the original locations..



the exact rack is 3 draws, bring size 0,1,2,3 tcus for the little corner( youll only use 2) a sling for the bush and a sling for the tree anchor at top.;-)


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : Southside Crags : Lower Crystal Springs Area : LedZep Arrette (5.12a)
By: RDA When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: ok,, so it may not be 5.12,,but somewhere in the 11s...Still a cool lil route!;-) Dano was to GOOD to really rate it and i was too BAD to actually rate it- seemed desperate to me lol! But it one of the last routes we did together. Its a sacred place, go do it and feel him if you wish! KennyT replaced the two missing top bolts with one, so its now a four bolt climb as of 5/13...


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : One Of These Days Buttress : One Of These Days (5.10b/c)
By: RDA When: Jan 23, 2013

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Comments: there is NOTHING that needs to be cleaned from this route.. It has had 10,000 ascents by now...


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : The Pie Shop : Main Wall : Desiderata (5.10b)
By: RDA When: Dec 3, 2012

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Comments: what bolt??? there never used to be one?


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : The Pie Shop : Main Wall : Crepes Corner (5.7)
By: RDA When: Dec 3, 2012

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Comments: Yes a great route.. Ive soloed it and down climbed it.. The first one i did when visiting there in 76. clean as a whistle.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : The Pie Shop : Main Wall : Battle Axe (5.11a)
By: RDA When: Dec 3, 2012

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Comments: i accidentally fa-ed the route when Rod was still working on it.. There was no red tape a=on any hangers so we thought it was done.. But its Rods route none the less. good slabbin..


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : The Pie Shop : Main Wall : True Grip (5.10b)
By: RDA When: Dec 3, 2012

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Comments: I concur with ol 426 here.;-)


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : The Fortress : Books Area : Cat Scratch Fever (5.10a)
By: RDA When: Dec 3, 2012

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Comments: I concur with the Colonel the quotes above are from me. One of the FA dooods. The multiple cruxs within the closely sustained other moves all being 5.10 or better really allude to a 10C rating for the ONSIGHT. Which is how i rated all of my climbs.. Yes, the 10A rating was a bit sandbaggish in our eyes when rating it for the guide. Consistency is a hard thing to achieve in rating climbs really. Youve got your on days , youve got your off days, then youve got your dazed dayz..

Whichevah ... more >>


Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Cat Scratch Fever 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Books Area

Wipe Out 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Main Wall

Contributed Ratings

Name Established Rating Suggested Rating Location

LedZep Arrette

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Lower Crystal Springs Area

Wipe Out

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Main Wall

Cat Scratch Fever

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Books Area

FM a.k.a. F*%K Me

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

NV : Reno - Carson City : River Rock - Upstream Crag

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