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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : The Swift (5.7) : Photo
By: raygay When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Use this excellent photo with route overlay instead of trying to decipher the confusing text description offered by Mr. Kalinowski. If you don't mind some easy 5.8 climbing, avoid the rope drag of the first right traverse by starting 40 feet right on the other side of the big boulder at the base of the climb and go up the slightly left leaning crack. This start makes the route easy to do in two pitches by going all the way to the blocks just below the left facing dihedral for your first belay.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Southern Outcrops : Illusion Crags : Slight of Hand (5.9)
By: raygay When: Nov 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: After getting past the finger crack, the remainder of the route is 5.7+ with a few moves of 5.8. Beware of a basketball size rock sitting loose on a shelf in the wide crack about 3/4 of the way up. It looks attached so you might be inclined to pull on it. It will move if you do.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Angel's Landing : Prodigal Sun (5.8 C2) : Photo
By: raygay When: Oct 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This topo is very helpful. One observation I have is that there is a mandatory hook placement in a drilled hole between the fixed pitons near the top of Pitch 3. The hole is not obvious from below. Since John does not show the hook placement on his topo, perhaps there was an angle piton in this hole previously.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Angel's Landing : Prodigal Sun (5.8 C2) : Photo
By: raygay When: Oct 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This looks like Pitch 3 to me.
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Location: John McNamee : Pics : Photo
By: raygay When: Oct 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for this diagram, John. I'm starting to think seriously about delving deeper into solo aid adventures and this system appears to have merit.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Royal Arches (5.10a/b)
By: raygay When: Jul 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We started just before dawn on a hot day in mid July and happily discovered that by maintaining reasonable upward progress we could stay in the shade until quite high on the wall. It was approaching 9 am before the sun caught up with us well beyond the rope traverse, making the route quite pleasant in spite of the warm temps. A fast party could beat the sun to the top if climbing on a day near the summer solstice. Though the descent on the North Dome gully trail was brutally hot in direct sun... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+)
By: raygay When: Jun 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Moderate and relatively inexperienced climbers should take seriously all the difficulties mentioned above. In addition, I don't think any of the pitches should be rated 5.6. I thought both of the 5.6 rated pitches had some hard 5.7 moves, tempered only by the good quality of the protection. The continuously steep character of the route also augments the rating difficulty because your arms, calves, and your mind never get a good rest. That said, if you are physically and mentally prepared an... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : Valentine's Day (5.8+) : Photo
By: raygay When: Jan 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I got tired resting at that spot.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : The Ledger Crags : The Ledger (5.7)
By: raygay When: Dec 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: My partner wished I hadn't discouraged him from bringing a few hexes in the 1 to 3-inch size for this route. There isn't much need for tiny (1/2-inch and smaller) gear. We used the walk-off descent to the left. It's not too badly overgrown, but does involve some mild route-finding to find the best place to drop into the gully and some short downclimbs at one point in the gully.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Lady Mountain
By: raygay When: Nov 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Buzz, that's a very impressive time for this very steep and convoluted trail. Most people, even those in good shape, should plan for a half-day outing. For those attempting this hike for the first time, I'd suggest reserving the whole day, both to deal with route finding on a trail that is easy to lose in places and to enjoy the magnificent vistas from the summit over a leisurely lunch. Also, keep in mind that the east face gets sun all morning long and can be very hot from May to September. ... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Bourbon Street (5.8) : Photo
By: raygay When: Nov 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This photo is very helpful, except that the line on the photo for P5 confused me as it shows the climb going straight up over the large bulge at the top of the slab. The route description is not very clear for this pitch, but I think the line on the photo disagrees with the written description. When I led this pitch, I aimed for the right edge of the bulge at the top of the wall and went over the arete there. Turning over this arete at that location was easy and led right into what is charact... more >>
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Temple of Sinawava : The Pulpit (5.5 C1)
By: raygay When: Mar 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The transition from the slanting ledge at the P1 anchor into the P2 crack is awkward and the crack starts out with poor opportunities for gear. I didn't feel well protected until I got a sling around a small column next to a hole about 10 feet up. The crack quality improves as you go up. The four bolts on P2 seem pretty solid compared to the junky bolts on P1, but the homemade aluminum angle hangers are soft and a bit deformed. One of these P2 bolts has previously broken off. Back up the bo... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Birdland (5.7+) : Photo
By: raygay When: Mar 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This photo with the climbers on the wall gives great perspective to the quality of this route.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Birdland (5.7+)
By: raygay When: Mar 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Birdland is becoming more and more popular. On nice days you are likely to have company. You can avoid rapping down onto parties climbing P4 and P5 below you by continuing past the P5 anchor to the nearby anchor at the top of Rawlpindi. Instead of stopping on the small slanted shelf on Birdland's P5 anchor, continue up and left about 40 feet to the Rawlpindi 2-bolt anchor (after checking to be sure no one is coming up Rawlpindi) and belay your follower at the Rawlpindi anchor. It's a one rop... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Rose Tower : Rose Tower - Original Route (5.7) : Photo
By: raygay When: Jan 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: These historic first ascent photos are great. I'm inspired by and appreciate the explorations of these early pioneers.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Trilogy Buttress
By: raygay When: Oct 29, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this buttress with Lee on 27 Oct 06. I would not agree this formation has great rock quality on the lower section as you have to choose your holds carefully and frequently brush away the loose pebbles. The rock does get more solid and cleaner as you approach the top. The real fun is found on the highest section with lots of empty air below your feet.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Topless Twins (5.9) : Photo
By: raygay When: Oct 11, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Indeed you did take that photo, Fran. Nice shot, too.
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Location: Lee Jensen : Lee's Pictures : Photo
By: raygay When: Sep 26, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ahh... That photo brings back the memories.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Frogland (5.8)
By: raygay When: May 1, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: As my first 5.8 lead, I agree the short face climb on tiny smooth nubs to the bolt on the 5th pitch was the crux. But my partner led the delicate traverse below the roof on the 4th pitch, so I really don't know which of the two is truly the harder lead. I could not get past the chockstone without removing my day pack and hanging it from my harness. That added to the thrill of leading the 5th pitch. Belaying on top of the chockstone seemed a good idea. Since all of the hangers on the rappel ... more >>
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