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Member Since: Aug 18, 2011
Last Visit: Oct 11, 2016
Contact Ranger Matt

Point Rank: # 7,985
Total Points: 58
Last Year: 5
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1

Where has Ranger Matt been climbing?


All 17 | Routes 3 | Areas 1 | Photos 1 | Page Improvements | Comments 8 | Posts 3 | Stars | Ratings 1

Contributed Comments


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (s) Monkey Face : Northwest Passage (Aid) (5.7 C2)
By: Ranger Matt When: Jan 17, 2014

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Comments: Great route to keep your aid skills sharp in the off season. Long reach at the start of the 2nd pitch. I'm 6'4" and could barely reach the 2nd bolt. There is a blown out scar a more skilled climber might utilize, other wise I would bring a little cheat stick for that move. Blue/Yellow Metolius offset was the MVP, bring two. Hooking and free climbing at the end of the 3rd wasn't as stressful as I expected. Great solo!

Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (a) Picnic Lunch Wall : Bubbas In Bondage (5.4 A2)
By: Ranger Matt When: Dec 16, 2013

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Comments: Bolts on 1st pitch very reachy if aiding this. I'm 6'4'' and I had trouble reaching.
1 60 barely raps off the 1st anchor.
Good pitch to practice aiding. Bring a mini cheat stick if you are short.

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Washington Column : The Prow (5.8 C2)
By: Ranger Matt When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments: We climbed this in a LONG day after the smoke cleared. There was ash falling from the sky on Sunday. This was 9/2/13.
No hammer needed, all necessary pins and heads look in good shape. Kudos to ranger Ben Doyle for cleaning the broken pins from pitch two last summer, more aesthetic now.
Bring two Metolius blue/yellow offsets, sell your spare tire if you need to, but bring two of these MVPs. W brought free shoes, but didn't need them.

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Chapel Wall : The Great Escape (5.11c)
By: Ranger Matt When: May 15, 2013

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Comments: Use some longer draws on the last few bolts on pitch 3 (or 2 depend on how you're counting).
A little too much drag on the last moves without them.

I think pitch 1 and 2 combined is one of the best face pitches right off the ground in the valley.

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Tangerine Trip (5.9 C3+)
By: Ranger Matt When: Nov 1, 2011

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Comments: Climbed this a few days ago.
A huge thanks from me goes out to ASCA on this one.
95% of all the rivets and bolts have been replaced.

We spent 3 nights on the wall after fixing to 4th pitch.
Great exposure with challenging but not too dangerous aid.
We placed ~4 pins the whole route. sawed-angles and blue-yellow metolius offsets cams were our MVPs.

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Mariuolumne Area : Drug Dome : OZ (5.10d)
By: Ranger Matt When: Aug 18, 2011

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Comments: First moves on the first pitch were the most heady for me. Some delicate face climbing with only a small came behind a suspect flake to keep you from the ankle breaking fall.
Route gets sun around 1pm (in August). So a late start isnt a bad idea.
Two thumbs way up!! Love the name of this route, needless to say we honored the name at every belay.

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 10 - The Cookie Cliff : Pringles (5.11)
By: Ranger Matt When: Aug 18, 2011

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Comments: Super fun, one of the best single pitch face climbs I've done in the Park.
Definitely not PG13. Very well bolted.
Seems like a tree which was growing right next to the wall died and fell over, opening up room for this great line. Thanks nature, RIP tree.

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Chapel Wall : New Wave (5.11d)
By: Ranger Matt When: Aug 18, 2011

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Comments: There is a variation to the left (slightly easier), which stems up off the large rock in front of the wall. This avoids the brutal, thin crux down low by going straight up to the roof and travering to the right. There is a different bolt for this vartiation but is of suspect quality.
I found this to be more fun than the tweaky direct line.

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