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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ice Cave Walls : Merry Maids (5.10b)
By: Randy Slavin When: Sep 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is in desperate need of bolt replacement. Multiple bolts wiggling in holes, loose nuts, etc. Easy route, but scary protection currently.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Crystal Tower : Mineral Museum (5.9+)
By: Randy Slavin When: Jun 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Please don't freak out and attack me (or slash my tires, slit my throat, etc). But this climb (almost) goes on gear. Just clipped one, interesting placements for the rest.
Peace
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Location: CO : Naturita and Paradox Valley : Carpenter Ridge - Paradise ...
By: Randy Slavin When: Nov 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow is this a huge approach, and the quality of the rock leaves something to be desired...not to mention the gnarly road to get in there. Some pretty cool climbs, but probably not worth the brutal grind (1000' vert) up the slippery ball-bearings. Next time I'll keep driving to Indian Creek, where you can find hundreds of 5 star climbs close to the road.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Rim Routes : Ghost Dancer Arete (5.10+)
By: Randy Slavin When: Sep 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is so good! Loved it. Beautiful rock, perfect white stone on the bolted face, gorgeous pewter-grey rock on the steep corner, and steep spicy face-climbing on the next pitch. Short and sweet. Still a lot more of a climbing day than its classic neighbor Russian Arete.
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Lower Bulldog Cliff : Bush Pilot (5.10a/b)
By: Randy Slavin When: Sep 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: If this is the line I'm thinking of, it used to be done with gear, right?
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Lincoln Creek : Sunset Cliff : The Avenger (5.13a PG13)
By: Randy Slavin When: Aug 31, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is so inspiring that the superfluous bolts were removed from this beautiful gear line. That said, I do really enjoy the humble moderate that is "I'll be Black!" regardless, thank goodness this exquisite crag has been spared the various indignities that have been callously imposed on various other crags in this state...like in Boulder Canyon.
This cliff is sooo good. Kudos to all who put in time and effort to create a quality, climbing area.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : World Cup Wall
By: Randy Slavin When: Jan 29, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This crag is a bit tiny and underwhelming to say the least...good for a visit if you've been everywhere else. Short, blocky routes with big ledges and not much exposure.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Firehouse Area : Leftmost of Left of Right (WI5 M4)
By: Randy Slavin When: Jan 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is actually a fun lead, beginning in the right-facing rock corner with natural pro (cams, nuts, hex?), a (tied-off) stubby or 2 getting onto the thin smear, then another piece of rock pro to finish. On lead, the top-out is pretty wacky: crank over the rock lip into deep sugar snow and lots of dirt, clawing at alder branches and wondering what the hell you're doing....
Enjoy!
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Ragger Bagger (5.8+)
By: Randy Slavin When: Jul 18, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: A nice variation at the top (if you're bored, a bit twitchy, and 'need' a bit more climbing) is to step right at the twin cracks above the ledge into an angling seam that shoots out right and tops out. Adds a few balancy, vaguely-nerve-wracking moves to a great route. The right-angling seam (10' below top?) is clearly visible in the photos.
This crag is so cool!
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale & uphill : Northwest Buttress of Powel... (M6)
By: Randy Slavin When: May 6, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've noticed this buttress before too, looks cool. But is this addition some kind of wry joke? "New school?" WTF? Not that it matters, but seems like ending the route under a loose block halfway up the wall would kinda make this a "nice try," or "close but no cigar" kind of deal. A new route? huh?
Not that it matters, but what gives? That said, might have to slog up and give 'er a try.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice
By: Randy Slavin When: Oct 13, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Has anyone been up to Alexander's/ Smear of Fear area lately? Any ice yet?
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Whirlpool Rock : Flexible Flyer (5.10c)
By: Randy Slavin When: Oct 11, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not sure what the FA info means when referring to the '1st pitch.' The entire route is only 85'. Maybe it used to be done in 2 pitches with a belay on the big ledge 25' below the top?
Oh, and I agree with the old guidebook: the moves past the bolt are definitely harder than 5.9, even 'old-school' 5.9 IMHO.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Cathedral Wall : Dalke Route (5.9 R)
By: Randy Slavin When: Oct 10, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this in August, and the temps were absolutely balmy. This route is now my favorite 5.9 in RMNP. Better than the Kor route on the Saber. Big Air and very thoughtful climbing. Kinda runout in places.
Should be more popular than it is, as it is bigger, steeper and more spectacular IMHO, than the Petit. The last steep pitch that traverses up and right from the huge ledge is outrageous. We descended a ramp that led to near the base of the Saber, hoping to link em, but got denied by rain.
Anoth... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Blood Feud (5.12c)
By: Randy Slavin When: Sep 12, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: In light of the last few weeks, this route seems to have been named perfectly....
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